Mopar1973Man

I wanted to here from the member out here if I should add a Ford and Chevy forum? It would be very basic for the time being. If I did I would need volenteers that had knowledge of those forums and help maintain it. So if it does come to pass I will be looking for a set of Moderatros for those areas... They will be required to know about ford or Chevys...

I would really appreciate it... A growing forum need more information... :thumbsup

Glad to see you trip went wel and you enjoyed yourself. Sounds like the 2 cycle oil is still doing its magic in your truck. I'm still discussing with people about 2 cycle oil usage but It seem we got some people that think that something might happen in 100K miles later to there expensive injectors or engine... We both are living proof that nothing will happen... :thumbsup

I'm sorry to say I'm not very knowable about the newer auto trans at all...But as far as I understand the RE45 is the smallest trans built that I know of... I'm hoping some other knowledgeable person will step up and help out but as you can see I'm just getting started... But I'll dig for you and find out from another forum and get some know brought back to you... :cheers

Well I had to use some other colors to offset some of the vision problems.... Then also I lighten the background colors closer to white to help with contrast...So I figure since its a Mopar/Cummins Site I need to use those colors... (If you know CSS you'll understand the color codes)Cummins Blue = #003399Cummins Red = #CC3333Mopar Blue = #0066CCI hope this helps with vision problems... The smoke back ground is given me troubles too... If anyone has a good smokey picture I would love to have a copy sent to me...

I'm hard at work still as you can see I've been working on the forum theme and got most of it done... Whew! This is not easy by no means so if there is problems with see links or controls let me know I'm correct it as fast as possible... Enjoy the Mopar Theme... :thumbsup

Thank you for the great comments... I hope to help you any way I can... :thumbsup As for keeping reocrd the best thing you can do is keep a notebook in the center console and write down your fuel information and mileage. Or get yourself a ScanGauge II... They work beautiful! http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002%20Do ... gauge2.htm

45RE actually has a meaning... 4 = how many gears. 5 = the maximum amount of torque. (500 foot pounds of torque) <- I'm pretty sure of it... There are several models of transmissions... 45RE, 46RE, 47RE, and 48RE Some good reading... http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge ... gAodbjThQQ

Thank you Keydl for the long post... We need another volenteer to dig in and help out with Keydl's idea here... I can't do it because I'm biased of the 2 cycle oil all ready... LOL My research started at 85K miles and I didn't get the 128:1 ratio figured out till about 95K miles... Here is my MPG logs Here is my cost per mile

Ok guys and Gals... If you would like to test drive the new them you can. I'm still working on it in my spare time so it I got lost to do yet. But here is how to change your theme. ucp.php <- User Control Panel. Now select board preferences tab up top. Then in that window you'll see "My board style:" now select "mopartheme" and hit the submit button. Then the theme will switch. There are some color problems yet but I'm working to get this as the default theme for the site soon.

There should be a wastegate and wastegat motor but it could be stuck closed. You might have to pull your turbo and inspect the wastegate. Anything over 35 PSI on a stock 35HX is too much... It creates a hot charge and might blow the turbo (over rev)... There is adjustable elbows... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE-CU ... 6074QQrdZ1 Then you can adjust you MAX boost so you don't over boost your turbo.

Thank you... I'm still hard at work at it every night... :thumbsup

Well I'm pushing foreward and got a domain name and working at expanding my information greatly now that I have the room to produce pages and post pics... But thanks for the great comments... I would ask a big favor of you and that is to spread the word around please! :thumbsup

Thanks for the great information on Bio Diesel... B)

Yea... As far as I seen B20 is much better for lubricity than 2 cycle oil. But as wintertime temp come on be very careful of the amount of BIO your using. There has been serveral problems with BIO gelling up rock hard and separating from the dino diesel. Currently there is no additive/anti-gel product that will effect BIO diesel.

Thank you Dorkweed...Wonderful post there! :thumbsup

Nope no problem! Most of the trucker out here run them. Not to mention I've got 4 across the front and 2 acros the rear axle...

Propane is a very expensive kit if you buy a kit... http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com ... /BU-010800 http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com ... SELPROPANE http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/ ... gQodG1CT3Q There is a few kits for propne systems... But like dorkweed propane out here is about $2.75 to $3.00 a gallon... Not a wise choice for me either... :rolleyes

Currently dino diesel here is $3.179 a gallon... Then B2 Diesel is $3.259. So now if I was to fill up my truck (35 gallons) tank it would be (3.179 x 35 = $111.27) and Bio diesel is ($3.259 x 35 gallons = $114.07) that is a expense of ($114.07 - $111.27 = $2.80) extra. Remember I'm going to lose MPG so I'll be buying more fuel more often... Now I buy a gallon of 2 cycle oil and it cost about $8 bucks. It will cover 128 gallons of diesel. It will cost me (128 ozs / $8 = 0.06 per ozs.) So if I fill up with dino diesel at ($3.179 x 35 gallons = $111.27) then add my 2 cycle at 128:1 ratio. (35 x $0.06 = $2.10) so my total bill will be ($111.27 + $2.10 = $113.37) which happens to be a difference of ($114.07 - $113.37 = $0.70 Savings) Now over a 20K miles (1 year for me). I would save about (19 MPG / 20,000 miles = 1052 Gallons) So that is going to be (1,052 Galons x $3.179 = $3,344.31) total fuel cost for the year. But If I switch to bio diesel. I would use (16 MPG / 20,000 = 1,250 Gallons) So that going to total up to (1,250 Gallons x $3.259 = $4,073.75) in Bio diesel. Which happens to be ($4,073.75 - $3,344.31 = $729.44 more I would be spending per year just for bio diesel... With $729 dollars I can buy a hell of a toy for the truck with that kind of savings... But here is the kicker... with 2 cycle oil I've increase MPG value by 2 to 3. Compared to losing it. So now lets figure it out... My cost per mile avg before 2 cycle was $0.18 cents a mile. Now with 2 cycle oil (128:1) ratio my cost per mile is down to $0.15 cents per mile. I've ran 2 cycle now for 20K miles. So ($0.18 - $0.15 = $0.03) now figure over the year running of 2 cycle oil. (20,000 x $0.03 = $600.00) This is how much I saved in a year. But I've spent between $60 to $80 dollars on 2 cycle for the year... So I'm still netting a total savings of ($600 - $80 = $520) per year. Cost per mile graph. (Started using 2 cycle oil at 85K miles) Those pennies add up quickly... And not to mention I gain MPG and HP/TQ number with 2 cycle that you lose with BIO.

Yes it will throw a code... P0236 - MAP Sensor too high too long. It will not throw the CEL light at all nor does it de-fuel the truck. The code will remain on the ECM/PCMs for a while and clear on its own. Thats after you re-hook up the MAP sensor...

Hmmm... I would have to refigure out the parts... I've haven't sold one in awhile... :confused

Quick table...

Ok...So run a 2x4 setting... That will limt the main fuel and timing to a safe level for the trans. But the seb level 4 will allow for full timing and fuel when you need it. Remember the main level is the limit of how much fuel and timing total you'll get... But the sub level is how fast you'll get to the max fuel timing... :coal <- Even on 2x4 you'll get a good cloud!HIDDEN SECRET - Diconnect the MAP sensor and you'll have full fuel and timing regardless of settings! It's like having a sub level 6... 8| :wow

According to Edge Tech's....If you looking for MPG's out of the product you must run a higher level and sub level. The main level dictates how much the total fuel and timing advancement will be. But the sub level dictates how soon you see the fuel and timing.So highier main levels will give more fuel timing...But now here is the trick...Your sublevel must be a 4 or 5... Reason being while your cruising you boost will fall back under into defuel mode and cancel out the timing and fueling. Just got to drive like a normal human and your MPG's will rise! Don't drive it like you stole it and smoke the neighborhood out...So as for me I'm running 4x4 mode and my 2 cycle oil (128:1 ratio) and getting 19-20 MPG without looking twice... :thumbsupThe sub number is how quick it will get to maximum fuel rate by boost pressure. Higher the number the less boost required to get to full fuel rate. This also might create black smoke during acceleration. But the higher the more timing and fuel comes quickier!Sub Level Fuel Rate 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost Like shown here... You never get any bonuses of timing in 1-3 till you exceed the boost limit... I don't know about you but my boost is at about 2-5 PSI at 65 MPH so I've got to run 4x4 mode...Main number controls the maximum fuel rate. This it the amount of total fuel at WOT that will be used. Higher the number the more fuel at WOT. Higher levels give more MAX timing and fuel...Main Level Horse Power 1 40 2 60 3 80 4 100 5 120

That would do it... I forgot to look at the signatuyre for that... Good catch! :thumbsup Sub levels... Sub Level Fuel Rate 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost