Mopar1973Man

I'm officially old as dirt today. I've got to say Thank You to @Wet Vette, Jacob and Breck Thoreson for the awesome birthday present. They got me an Samsung Tab S4. Very impressive tablet. Been quietly setting this up so I can continue to do work on the road since my previous laptop blew up back in Jan, 2020. I'm taking the day off and doing absolutely nothing... So after this post I'm outta here... Chillin'

Metering solenoid is physically on the injection pump in the middle of the distributor. Those two wires go back to the PSG on top of the VP44. This means there is a wiring or circuit problem between the PSG on the VP44 and the fuel solenoid in the middle of the distributor. The PSG senses this issue and returns the code P0252 back to the ECM to report for OBDII purpose. So yes the pump is dead... This is why I tell people to know where there pumps are being rebuilt. So where does XDP get there pumps from? Are they rebuilt by a Bosch Certified shop? If it is rebuilt properly that pump has to run on Bosch 815 test stand for 3 hours to verify and the flash the PSG with all the settings after the 3 hours of testing and calibrating. Non-Bosch rebuilder have been known to reused PSG's and not bench test at all...

Not that I'm aware of... The only tool that is even close that I've seen is @Chris O. CCD Network tool that is very close to the DRBIII tool.

Now that I got some sleep and can think a bit clearer. Yes the default tune is rather retarded in timing hence the white smoke. I've got to ask did you have the injectors pop higher by change or what pressure did you have set? I need to know this so I can tell you the needed timing.

Gotta ask if you tighten the injector hold down cap first or the cross over tube? Correct answer is crossover tube first then the injector hold down. This is so you can get the injector to center up with the crossover tube first BEFORE you lock it into place with the hold down cap.

Injectors are wiped out and no longer usable. Stock Injectors or Bosch injectors only have about 75k to 100k life span. Beyond that you on borrowed time. Like myself this is why when I had my new +150HP DAP injectors (7 x 0.010) built I opted to have them popped at 320 bar to add longevity and better fine mist that ignites easier. When your injectors pass about 100k miles the pop pressure is nearing about 260 or 280 bar. The bottom limit is 293 bar according to the Dodge FSM.

Little info... Higher the cetane the shorter the carbon chains, the lower the BTU's per gallon and then the weight per gallon is less. Bio diesel is typically lighter per gallon and typically 45 to 50 cetane. Like here I'm already running winterized #2 diesel and it green tint in color. Then since about September I had to back down timing on the Quadzilla. 20° to 21° at 2k RPM. When I get back to summer fuel which is 40 to 43 cetane I can jump back to my high timing of the summer 23° works good at 2k RPMs. Petroleum Diesel #1 Diesel - 137k BTU's #2 Diesel - 139k BTU's (summer fuel) #3 Diesel - 141k BTU's #4 Diesel - 145k BTU's #5 Diesel - 148k BTU's #6 Diesel - 152k BTU's Biodiesel B2 - 138k BTU's (1% loss) B20 - 134k BTU's (4% loss) B100 - 118k BTUs. (16% loss) Funny how all bio fuels are always LESS energy per gallon... That fact will never change being that high cetane ALWAYS means lower BTU's there is no way around that fact. Light green is winterized fuels up here and dark green is the summer fuel. As from ASTM Labs...

Even my 7 x 0.010 injectors burn clean little to zero smoke even with 100% wiretap.

But you have a Raptor WITHOUT a return line so under load you can produce cavitation (foaming of the fuel). Since there is no return to route that away you end up seeing the foam drop your fuel pressure deeper. This is the difference between a Raptor and an AirDog both produced by the same company and the same pump head but the full AirDog will return the air and foam back to the tank. Keeping my pressure stable. I'm even running bigger injectors, bigger turbo, and Quadzilla Tuner and still better on the stability of pressure. Then you most likely return and pick up out of the sender right? All that returned fuel is now foaming up in the sender bucket and adding air to the supplied fuel to the pump. My engine return is in the sender, AirDog return is in the filler neck, and the draw straw is nearly a foot away from both returns way less foaming and much cooler fuel. Average fuel temp right now 100 to 120*F max with fall weather.

Yesterday I pulled it all back up to re-seal the shifter tower. I was weeping fluid out a little bit not enough to lower the level but enough to make a mess. Just as I finished that up I had to pack up and head out on the road side recovery for that Monaco RV (Cummins ISL) with a coolant leak. This is done and fixed. Snugged up the 4 tower bolts and with the silicone I should be good.

Being the Morimoto setup is a single filament bulb so if its flickering its a connection on that particular bulb. It could be a ballast as @Me78569 mentions being there is a left and right ballast for each bulb. At least for my kit the ground is drilled into the fender. The rest is in the driver side plug going to the factory headlight plug. IIRC... D2S compared to H1 Mini is a worlds of difference. Much wider path of light and even taller on high beam.

Yup... I was just at home doing a bit of repairs and got a phone call from a gentleman. He had called Chevron station in Riggins, ID and Steve of course referred it to me. It is a 40 foot Monaco Diesel Pusher. When I got there you can clearly see the coolant dripping out from under the engine area. It was technically the lower radiator hose buty being the radiator is in the side its got some rather unusual plumbing. At this point we packed for Riggins and rounded up everything we would need including 5 gallons of antifreeze and 5 gallons of water. I ran through my buddy Steve pile of old hose looking for something big enough and grab a few old radiator hoses. Came back and pull the hose and drain out some seriously rusty antifreeze. Once I got the hose off and look I found the rip. More so inside was torn by the hose clamp. Then a small pin hole in the outer jacket. I trimmed off about 1/2 inch of hose and reinstalled. I was able to get the clamp back past the bad part. Started loading back up with coolant and got close had the owner fire it up and warm up again to burp the system. Turned out good and he's repaired with the knowledge to change his coolant much sooner and flush it out. Then have the hoses replace.

Some have extended the wiring all inside under the dash so there is nothing to see.

Being the display is your phone then just turn off your iQuad App. Nothing to see folks... Just a stock truck needing a smog check. Even @Me78569 master the Quadzilla enough to be able to run the Quadzilla and pass his smog check. You could like many just set a lower power limit for Valet Mode and that all the fuel they would get period. Hence all most look for is how dark if any smoke is produced. Same rule is Ada County, Idaho.

As for stashing a Quadzilla that is so simple. Since there is no display in the cab no one would know it was there. Now for the module and hook up hook up the same just hide your wiring with factory stuff. Hide the module like inside the fender skins I'm pretty sure there is a enough reach.

Me personally I'd never put the straw in the sender. Being now your dumping hot 170-180*F fuel from the return of the head returning from the injectors. Like my truck the Fuel Temp and IAT run as a pair. I'm never over 130*F in the summer and no heat soak of the VP44 always goes down after the engine shuts down not up. Like yesterday being I draw from the fuel tank directly I was a mere 90 to 110*F fuel temps for the day and never return even close to the draw straw. All fuel is return away from the suction straw. This way I've got much colder fuel for the VP44 to cooled with. Been running this system since 2006 and never was a disappointment. No 1/4 sloosh issues No high fuel temp issues. Can empty tank to the EMPTY mark safely Much cooler fuel temps Stable fuel pressures As seen here IAT and Fuel Temp chase each other. NOTE: Transmission temp is actually engine oil temperature. Note my location which is away from the sender basket with hot fuel. Then note my straw nearly touches the bottom of the tank...

Cranking I see bouncing 7 to 12 PSI. Running I see 17 at idle and 15 at WOT. I'm nowhere near 20 PSI or plus pressures. I'm very close to the stock pressure with good supply volume and plumbing since I only drop maybe a total of 2 to 3 PSI depending on filters how clean they are. The cranking pressure is a 50% duty cycle the ECM controls and it shoulbe lower than 12 PSI for proper starting above 12 PSI it becomes hard starting being the timing piston is being pushed advanced with fuel pressure. Hence why you need 7 to 12 PSI for cranking. Way too many worry about the 14 PSI MIN pressure but the truth is you don't need 20+ PSI either. You nee to look at the cranking pressure as the engine is trying to start and lower the pressure to 7 to 12 bouncing PSI. 422k miles never had a hard start hot ever...

Rear axle speed sensor typically will see as a goofy speedometer that doesn't work right all the time. Like get below 30 MPH and drops to 0 or something odd. That is a failed sensor. Now the front to sensors if you suspect the front replace in pairs.

Myth.. I quit cleaning the sensor and just check the sensor again the ECT at start up if matching the sensor is working. Below 80*F there is about 3* to 4* advancement of timing. Warming the IAT the better for MPG's. No need for cleaning or replacement unless the temperature is way off. Typically I see about +40*F over outside air. Then IAT and Fuel Temp typically run as a match pair. I'm still running my OEM IAT it has not been clean in hundreds of thousands of miles but the temperature is dead one the money.

Like I said the front two tower bolt were not tight so when I pulled down to 4th I pull the shift rod right out of the gate. If the tower was tight it might not have happened. Being I normally just stay in 5th for most highway driving. Remember 55 MPH is about 2,200 RPMs in 4th. Again normal just stay in 5th.

Yup. It finally happened to me. Dropped from 5th to 4th rolled up my power tried to shift to 5th again... NOPE so I'm stuck in 4th limped into Hoots Cafe in Whitebird, ID. Im glad my sockets with me. Quickly pulled the cup holder up. The the boots. Then the shift tower. Everything was good just jumped out of the gate. Push the center fork back to neutral. Reassembled. Took 20 minutes with basic tools. Now in Grangeville ID getting breakfast.

I get what he's talking about like some times you'll see little depressions in the rubber outer jacket and then some how the inner jacket splits and the oil would weep from the depressions of the outer jacket. I've not seen that but I see how it would be possible. As for my oil leaks so far a couple of running around day here doing typical things going to work, going to the dump, etc. So far not leaking. I'm going to head to Lewiston for grocery shopping and restock for the month. I'm going to pick up a gallon of Zep Degreaser concentrate. Then I'll spray it directly to the engine bottom and clean this mess up with the power washer. Just be aware the Zep degreaser is an acid so don't leave on aluminum for long periods. I'm pretty sure Home Depot has there own brand of it too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Gal-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759

Give DAP a call they have rebuilt kits for turbos. Once rebuilt it will be all new again. You could upgrade to 62/68/12 they have them as well DAP for a good price. Works with factory exhaust brake too.

3.73 would be just about right for most people with slide in camper or tow a lot. For me its all the steep mountain roads.

And... What happened?