Mopar1973Man

Repop or test the injectors to verify pop pressure are good.

Too many forget to change brake fluid every 30k miles. I'm betting that the front caliper pistons are caked up and need to be cleaned and new 5 dollar seal dropped in. Be done and fixed. If you keep your brake fluid changed before it darken to black it will reduced this problem. I only had caliper problem in the beginning. No longer now that I keep brake fluid changed every 30k miles. Not even a problem with full stroke of the brake pedal, the master cylinder is still OEM. 419k miles later...

Injectors are only good for 100k miles. Maybe 150k miles. Those are completely shot. No. Injectors are wasted. That why the heat. The injector pop pressure fell below minimum pressure long time ago like 200k miles ago. Even my OEM stock went 150k miles but when I had them tested by DAP my OEM stock at 150k miles where at 260 bar. The minimum bar is 293 bar.

At least there is a sway bar to buy... Keep looking I'm sure there is a offroad company with a economy sway bar.

Better to have gauges. Personally. Boost on the Quadzilla reports Im reaching 69 PSI of boost when the gauge shows 45 to 47 actually. Not the Qaud per se it the MAP sensor. Its good till about 25 PSI after that it skews for me.

Stock turbo with +50 HP injectors are fine. Turbo only considered after about 100 to 150 HP injectors. Your stock HY35 turbo will be fine for about 300 to 350 HP total.

Try DOR (Dodge Off Road)? Might check some of the offroad part suppliers might have something.

418k miles changed every 30k miles. OEM pump is still going. Using only PETROLEUM Walmart Super Tech or NAPA power steering fluid. Steering box was in excellent condition when Ryan at @Blue-Top Steering got mine just needed new seals and he sold my old box in mere minutes of getting my box. I upgraded to quick ratio. So I'm never suggest synthetics because is much cheaper to change often with petroleum than spending big money on synthetics that your going to waste in changing every 30k miles. Basically for my old travels that was every 6 months being I covered close to 60k to 65k a year. I might still be at that level being all the long haul I've been doing. 418k miles... That should say quite a bit.

No good... Unless totally stock and never plan on upgrading period. No way to adjust timing to fit you upgrades. One reason why I dropped the Edge Comp. Once I got to +50HP injectors the timing was all wrong. more smoke and retarded timing. So you end up upgrading twice because the tuner is just a canned tune for stock injectors. Timing is the biggest factor to EGT's and MPG's. If you can't adjust the timing you typically sub-optimal... The only way to keep it under control is drive 55 MPH as a max speed. Once your engine load is above 20% or so the cruise timing is gone. Again canned tuner don't allow for this adjustment. So like I've got a towing tune (Adrenaline) with the cruise limit opened to 33% engine load, again canned tuners (XZT or EZ) can't do this.

Did you re-calibrate the ABS? For that rev per mile?

Diesel Auto Power. 7 x 0.010 Injector popped at 320 bar. New idle was about 13 to 14%. Now its about 7 to 9% engine load without A/C. I'm coming to the end on my injectors too maybe another year and be washed out. These will barely make 3 years and 120k miles.

You won't need the turbos if you get the Quadzilla. There is more to it. Like I've change my final ratio. Ditched the 265's and then put on 245/75 R16 30.5" inch tires. This dropped the temp another 100*F towing EGT's. Larger tires than 265's will add EGT's and coolant temp 30 tires tow way easier and better MPG at 14.7 MPG MAX and 12.6 MPG AVG. Basically all I did was remove all my drag to gain performance. For every 1 pound of rotational mass you ditch is like 8 pounds off the frame. Big tires, lift kits, etc all add drag and engine load. This in turn creates mass heat. With the current ratio of 3.69:1 to the ground my RPMs are.... 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM 82 MPH at 2500 RPM This is optimal. Lower RPM's cause excessive loading and more heat. Higher you stand in the wind is more drag on the truck.

31 foot living area. 296 Cubic feet. Typically really close to 8,000 to 8,500 pounds (GVWR). Fifth wheels are heavier. I only need 15% on the ball or 1,275 pounds on the truck. Where as a 5th wheel is more like 25% that is 2,125 pound on the truck. Then on top I can't carry a ATV in the bed with a 5th wheel. That is another 900 pounds cargo in the truck bed. This can put me close to 20,000 pounds depending on how much more stuff I pack in the truck. I'm registered for 26,000 pounds. Last camp trip to Lost Valley I was very close to 20,000 pounds. Big BBQ pit, firewood, fuel for the ATV, and the ATV loaded in the bed. This can't be done with a 5th wheel. As for EGT's and coolant that is mostly timing... Get your timing set correctly for the Quadzilla and the EGT's fall like a rock. I've done a bit more tweaking lately and my empty flat ground cruise EGT's are like 500 to 550*F now. Towing I hover about 700*F to 800*F at 65 MPH.

Bigger turbo means more lack and more smoke till it spools. Smaller turbos spool faster but cap out early and start to choke on the exhaust side causing heat. I'm towing larger trailers with HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) this coupled with the Quadzilla Tuner there is no need for bigger turbos too much you can tune most of the heat out with timing and change in fuel map. I was 17,300 pounds going to Mohave Valley AZ and never had a single EGT problem even with climbing all the way to 7,200 feet summit. My problem was transmission heat which was high but damaging 190 to 200*F. 7 x 0.010 Injectors (150 HP) popped at 320 bar. Quadzilla Adrenaline (My Towing tune) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 4 Inch exhaust (with exhaust brake) BHAF stock air system (excluding turbo) Me on the far left... 62 foot long and no issues.

Bearings on the main shaft are in the wrong position. This would mean that 4th gear should be the same issue being it pushed in the same direction. If not then something on the main shaft is not assembled right or out of order.

There is a starter solenoid fuse in the PDC. There is a starter solenoid relay in the PDC. Then when in the start position the key switch should be giving power to the ECM, PCM and VP44. See the switch with the light blue lead than is the lead back into to the dash fuse panel for fuse 11.

I don't know of many that actually torque to spec for lines. I no longer even worry about it because you find that you can seal thes line with little torque at all. Just make sure the injector hold down is the LAST thing you tighten. NOT the first thing...

Pull the injectors and have them tested. If they are low you can have them re-popped and flow matched. 90% of the time injectors are the cause of weird misfires. I've had 3 set of injectors drop below 260 bar and they start doing weird things. idle misfire hot, stalling after long haul at stop or lights, typically no smoke with it. Even my stock injectors after 150k miles still ran fin but the lowest injector was 260 bar and all 6 where idling fine and drive fine but low in power and supper low in MPG. (Bad spray, too much large droplets). Hence how I found that pencil injector MISSING a hole. Pull them all and had the spray pattern checked. Sure enough its missing a hole and injector had to be replaced. Case C580 pencil injectors. #2 was phyiscally missing a hole and only had 3 holes. Bad spray pattern from the Case factory back in 1984... Yes weird crap does happen and some just live with it. Again pull the injectors and have them tested. Another Story is @pepsi71ocean he bought a set of 100 HP injectors and after 28k miles the pop pressures dropped to 280 bar which is still a fail. Bottom end is 293 bar. After pop testing and resetting the injectors now his truck is running good and way less smoke he also increased to 320 bar (if I'm not mistaken).

Shift collar detent holds it there. Shift fork just moves it into place of 2nd gear. It up to that detent to hold the shift collar.

Are you running oversized tires? That number will be worthless. You'll need a GPS to track mileage correctly. MPG number have to be done with either GPS or with a calibrated speedometer that is verified.

Check the main shaft bearings. If the main shaft can move forward to back even a little bit then the main shaft can kick it out of gear. Most normally the detent holds it in place. The usual reason for bouncing out of gear is mainshaft bearing are wore.

Used the same fitting through out my gauges. Boost and fuel pressure.

W-T ground wire mod done? Did you attempt to adjust your APPS? Please say no.

Injectors are wore out most likely. What does the engine load shown from live data tool at idle? If below 3% then the injectors are wore out.

Extra ground between batteries will not change anything. NOT Required. I did the testing on that and there is ZERO change to any ground function. No change in ground cable voltage. Even checked with jumper cables. Been without the extra battery ground cable for 2 years now. No issues. The stock cable are plenty big enough. Nothing should be tied to the battery cables. The only change I got is the charge lead on the passenger cable and the driver side is the ground for the ECM and VP44. If you need power for other thing used the stud in the PDC and the body for ground. Zero reason for the fuel pump lead on the battery.