Mopar1973Man

Too low the overflow valve closed at 14 PSI. You lost your cooling and lubing of the pump causing wear. You need to stay above 14 PSI for longevity. You pump doesn't have enough volume an/or your supply plumbing is too restrictive causing the pressure drop. You should have 1/2 inch lines from the fuel tank to the lift pump to the factory filter then one more between the filter and the injection pump. I'm set at 17 PSI with a Quadzilla (+180 HP), DAP 150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010) I only drop 2 maybe 3 PSI. Settle right at 15 PSI typically all the way to 100 MPH. True rebuilder should have a Bosch 815 test stand to do a proper rebuild of the pump. Yes a personal can change the parts in the pump no problem. The next step is to put the VP44 on a Bosch 815 test stand for 3 hours to tested fully and have the PSG reflashed with the calibrations. This is a requirement. Also Ive been total true Bosch rebuilder will not reuse a PSG unit on the pump it must be replace according to Bosch policies. Here is my list of certified shops. As for fuel system you need a better fuel system and keep your fuel pressure above 14 PSI at all times to keep return fuel flowing. I'm running an AirDog 150 with a 4G AirDog 165 pump. This setup is 14 years old and still going. I lost my first pump at 250k miles, 3G pump failed instantly in 3k miles, now 4G pump is solid and works awesome no issue to report. Never gelled in 18 years still going...

Bad ground wire was my issue with the Quad... Lenny is a cool gent he's always there in a pinch! A bit of tweak and tune... Now I'm back to taking chunks out of my rear tires. I was showing off a bit for Eileen's Son and it pull firm in 2nd against the TQ Manangement, hopped into 3rd gear boost hit 49 PSI. The tires came loose and start smoking. Grabbed 4th and got just a small bark and a bit of spin and hooked up and heading toward 5th... She is dam quick... As for the turbo difference... HX35/40 Hybrid 60mm compressor, 60mm turbine, and 12cm2 housing. As for the Stock HX35W is 54mm compressor, 60mm turbine, and 12cm2 housing... Mere 6mm difference on the compressor that's it. Flows the same amount roughly as the HE351 witthout the 9cm2 housing which is a choke point.

That should work out fine. I've used quite a bit of Standard Motor Products as well.

That would work... But it will only show exhaust leaks. What about intake guides and seals? Just easier to remove the valve cover and look for broken oil seals. If any are found the head will need to be removed and have new valve guides installed being the only way to ruin a oil seal is to have wore valve guides and the valve stems start to rock under the rocker arm and then the seals get brittle and tear apart. Again if you find any valve seal in the top of the head then it time to pull the head and have it sent to machine shop for repair and valve work. You cannot just install new seal and expect them to work with wore valve guides. It will ruin the new seal nearly instantly. I'll say after all the machine work, ARP 425 studs and new head gasket it was about $2,000 worth of repair and upgrade. This was back at 350k miles. Currently 421k miles and still rollling...

That's a shock at 90k miles. The truck must of been short trip and ran cold often. That is the only reason I can see 90k miles engine using massive amount of oil. Even with 420k miles I'm using 1 quart every 10k miles which is about the time I change oil every 10k miles. This is why the high ilde software was wrote for these truck because idle time the exhaust temps can fall very low and then start to tar up rings and valves. This typically ends with bent push rods. The other part is most people are afraid to put there foot on the throttle and heat it up. I'll stand on mine once in awhile and run the pyrometer way up past 1,200*F just to burn the carbon out of everything. Typically I cruise at lower temps like 400 to 600 EGT's (45 to 65 MPH) where cylinder temps are cool enough to build carbon. Then later down the road I might pass someone then stand on the throttle and let her get hot. Can't constantly baby these trucks.

Hence why I create the simple version... Then the PCM...

Make sure you have the right wiring then there is no modification you need to do. The only one is after you install is the W-T ground wire mod. Maybe the PCM protection fuse.

This is why I disconnect my grid heater in the summer to reduce wear on the relays in the summer when they are not needed.

I got called to this local gents place. It's a 2017 Ram EcoDiesel. I grabbed a code reader and it had a EGR temp sensor hi code twice. Then a code for intake leak. The manifold start smoking and smells of burnt plastic when its running. Come to find out this truck has a EGR and EGR cooler recall. I told the gent that there is no sense in me fixing it for a price when the dealer can fix under the recall for free. Time passes. Now the owner of the truck gets a friend with a flat bed trailer. Calls me up because the truck will not start and there is no way to shift to neutral. Being smart I grab my phone then ask about WiFi but the gent doesn't have any but his neighbor behind him I done work in the past and got his WiFi so I found a video that explains how to shift into neutral. Basically there is a small square panel above the parking brake release you remove. When you pry that panel off you have to use a key or my pocket knife to slide the level lock over to right in the notch. Now at the same time pull the level out with the orange/red strap.You'll hear a click and now the transmission is in Neutral. We proceeded in loading up the truck so the gent can get it service on Monday. Also I really do think there injector damage too. Refuses to start or run at all. Did start and idle when I first looked at it but now no start or run. Starter spins for a mere 2-3 seconds and it just dies.

Like myself the ground wire came loose. The bolt I used on the hood hinge worked loose from all the vibration of washboard roads and loosened up and created all kinds of hell when the Quadzilla losing power. I part I missed on mine at least I was check +12V power but forgot the grounds.

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

Here you go... My decade long study...

Lack of lubricity... If pressure is good then the lubricity is too low and bound up the timing piston.

Like I was figuring out guys in the south with high fuel temp passing 150°F to 160°F where I don't see that problem the only thing I can wrap it up with is the fact the source of new fuel in the sender is captive where the hot fuel is stored. Then suck up the heat fuel again and again heating up. Pumps will only recirculate the hot fuel back in forth in that small cup of the fuel tank sender and wonder why the fuel temp is high. Since I installed my AirDog 150 back in 2006... I've not seen any Asphaltene in my filters since then. Fuel temps remain much lower than most that use the fuel sender cup for capture point.

I don't... I normally clean the splines off with brake clean and don't add any grease to the splines of the input shaft. Just seems to collect dust and debris. Adding to wear of the input shaft. Without grease then the debris doesn't stick and the plate(s) don't gum up with dust loaded grease.

Guilty as charged... Being I've done so much ground wire changes to the engine already and mindful of weird issues. Just never thought that it would bite me that way and create all kinds of issues. Live and learn. Let me know if I need to settle up or just swap back modules.

Dang... Morning started at 5am this morning two cups of coffee later I'm already done work on site theme slightly, then handled all the replies I did. Trying to schedule a server move to the new hosting company. Man I'm tired and I just go up and worked nearly 2 hours at this.

Here is a clip of yesterday heading towards McCall ID and the lack of blue skies and dense fire smoke flood us out.

So fuel systems don't return at all. Like Dodge DDRP pumps. These pumps are known for cavitation problems. Pumps that return like AirDog, FASS with twin filters typically will return to the filler neck for air removal and return from the regulator of the pump. These typically return to the filler neck like @JAG1said. Still the engine fuel return is still in the stock sender of the tank. I don't want to draw up fuel that is heated to near coolant level being it drains out of the back of the head from the injectors. The the heated fuel from the injection pump. All dump back in a sump of the sender heated to near coolant temps. So my old drawstraw that everyone hates is the best option for cooled fuel and reducing the VP44 fuel temps. Even in the winter time with my stock filter I can still keep the fuel warm enough to prevent gelling at -40*F which I did several times no problem.

Heck that bolt has moved in like 7 years till the last wood cutting trip I shook the truck pretty good as I was climbing the grade and the rough wash board. Dodge mades it but the Cummins shakes it loose... Got to admit runs much better.

Ok... Now I feel like a total idiot... I've gotta say "Sorry, to @Quadzilla Power" I got my new module and send back my old module after testing the old module one last time. Needless to say the new unit acted just as weird and goofy. Every time I ease out the clutch the iQuad app would disconnect. Then if I continued to drive the iQuad remains out but now tossed MAP sensor codes. Double check the MAP. Cleared the codes. Check for +12V on the red/white and the red wire. All good. Check the ground wire... The bolt was ready to fall out... So I'm betting Marco fires up my old module and finds it still functional. After I tighten the ground bolt again ALL problems stopped. Running up that rough road to go firewood cutting shook the truck pretty good so when the bolt backed out of the ground wire the module dropped and fed all kinds of weird message causing the weird throttle and knocking. So I technically owe @Quadzilla Power for the new module it was my end that failed.

Best having the straw in the tank not the sender. Returning hot fuel to the VP44 isn't good. The the measurement for inside the sender is very limited. This why I kept my draw straw where it at for over 20 years now always been able to draw the tank empty (actually empty on the gauge). All about how tight you can get the tip to the bottom of the tank as when it gets empty. When you fill the tank the bottom will deflect downward another 1/8" of so. Never measure with a tank that has fuel in it. Never had 1/4 slosh problems and always had cooler fuel temps than most. 420k miles and ticking...

Ok back on track. Fuel pressure wise I would look at for any kinks in the hoses, any loose suction lines might be weeping air, etc.

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