Mopar1973Man

Mine is the reverse. The bottom end from 0 to about 20 to 25 PSI is good but beyond that I know my turbo tops out at 47 PSI roughly and the Quad logs that I reached 69 PSI. Tried two different MAP sensors (2001 which is installed) and my OE 2002 Sensor both react roughly the same. Weird... I've more or less given up on boost accuracy.

It should be getting to you soon. (New Timbo's APPS). Keep your battery terminals coated with engine oil you never clean them again. They will never corrode or oxidize.

ZERO or near ZERO loss. When your under power the valve is OPEN. If there was any loss in performance I would not of high marked 14.7 MPG towing my RV.

Well I guess you need to send the ECM out to Auto Computer Specialist and let them repair that.

I'm on the other fence with Valair Dual Disc. The clutch itself is rock solid. Throw out bearing is loud in every one of these I've installed. Works good throws fairly easy. Gotta be slow with 3rd gear mostly. 4th and 5th just a bit slow to throw too.

Too high need to drop below 12 PSI. 7 to 12 PSI is a good cranking pressure. Bad idea it only going to make the pressure higher. Need to change the spring for a 14 PSI spring then shim to meet your pressure you want. You need more return flow. Mine is set for 17 PSI and typically only drops to 15 PSI WOT and then 7 to 9 PSI cranking.

Remember factory halogen bulb is about 1,500 lumens. LED and HID's are typically 4,000 lumens.

No problem one of the many features I wanted for my gauges. Programmable warning lights. Offer is open for anyone that reads this...

Need to upgrade to full 1/2 inch lines you'll get more volume through the VP44 keeping the fuel temps down. I'm 1/2" from the DrawStraw in the tank, to the AirDog 150, then up to the stock filter and then finalize with 1/2" between the stock filter and the VP44. I struggle to get past 120*F fuel temps. This is my last trip to McCall ID with temps in the high 90's. Climbed a 7% grade and did my shopping and came home again.

Remains with the last reading. If you want send me your gauge I can program the warning light for any temp, pressure, etc. Or just pick up the EV2 programming cable its like $27 bucks for the programming kit.

Oh the expense is very justified... I bought mine back in 2003 for $800 form Dodge Dealer in Lewiston, ID and not having brake issues... Priceless. The fact I've only install 3 sets of brakes in 417k miles and only one set of rotors. That is also priceless. Even at today's prices for a PacBrake PRXB is $1,200 at least I would buy one tomorrow to replace my current one if it failed. That exhaust brake is even stronger than my current Jacobs Exhaust Brake. This would be my next exhaust brake. Inline I could then have any turbo I wanted... https://www.dieselautopower.com/pacbrake-c44064-inline-mount-prxb-exhaust-brake Direct mount is like what I've got now that limits me to the current turbo. https://www.dieselautopower.com/pacbrake-c44075-direct-mount-prxb-max-flow-exhaust-brake

So do we... Started out at about 81%. Then reaching 98*F outside. Ugh really rough to work in. What size plumbing do you have on the truck? 3/8" hose or 1/2" hose and fittings? 1/2 inch hose and plumbing gives the most volume per amount of pressure. I typically only see about 2 to 3 PSI drop from idle to WOT.

Yup. Exactly. I allow my throttle to modulate the exhaust brake and control the speed. This is why I will not suggest the 3rd gen brakes. You get slightly larger pad and rotor but done nothing to aid in actual speed control 3rd gen brakes still get hot if you use the service brake to control speed. But with a exhaust brake you can control your speed so you never touch the service brakes. Several people out did the same thing for all the long canyon roads and needlessly to say does no good still get the brakes hot and still end up dragging them all the way down the hills. Exhaust brake nothing to get hot and service brakes are ready at the drop of a hat and never have to worry about brake fade or failure.

That's why I went with the 4,000 lumens which is the same level of light as my Morimoto HID's. They are not blinding bright and you can adjust the headlight to get you pattern correct. The bulb I listed is the ones I've got in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. Had them nearly a year now and worked great on the highway and plenty of light. Your on your own going above 4,000 lumens. I will not suggest anyone buying a brighter bulb than 4,000 lumens.

Should be a nice bump in power.

When would all enjoy that funeral dinner of Dripley's should be plenty of chicken meat. Just have figure out which sauce would be best ranch, BBQ, honey mustard, etc. Oh the Chick Fil A sauce is darn good too with the fries. @dripley I'm not bringing the Idaho potatoes to your funeral... You'll just have to find another sucker for french fries.

Pull both shafts and inspect them closely. I just had my passenger side start ticking randomly. One day I tore it down to find out the u-joint appears fine but after a closer look I lost a clip on one cap and the cap was backing out. Then on top the bearings where gone on the bearing across from it. More obvious when the shaft is out and your able to move it around more in your hands and feel the slop.

Just try and hold in the 14 to 20 PSI range optimally.

Don't bother with 3rd Gen. Look towards a exhaust brake. Way better brake life at over 200k miles and going. 3rd gen might be a bigger caliper and clamping but wear is going to be the same. Exhaust brake if used properly you can do 95 to 99% of your stopping without ever touching the brake but below 20 MPH. This will reduced brake wear greatly. It might be a big one time purchase but the exhaust brake technically doesn't wear out. I've had my exhaust brake since 23k miles still going at 417k miles. My last set of rear pads where so old that the road salt rotted the pad off the backing plate and still 75% of pad left.

Another one I ran into is when people bleed the system when the fluid is nearly black in color typically push all the debris from the master into the bottom of the caliper and wedging up the pistons so they don't return properly. The calipers have to stay clean inside to keep the pistons moving freely. Another occurrence I've seen is heavy brake use (typically no exhaust brake installed) and heating the brake fluid till it scorches slightly causing the brake fluid to cake up on the pistons causing the brakes to drag too.

7 to 12 PSI like Dripley said is the optimal fuel pressure for starting. Above 12 PSI it tends to push the timing piston too far advanced making nearly impossible to start. Hence why the ECM pulses a 50% duty cycle during starting to reduce fuel pressure and make it easier starting. Way too many people are trying to keep above 20 PSI for run pressure and find out your starting pressure is too high. You could do the starter relay mod so during the time the starter is running it holds the power off to the lift pump. But I suggest just getting your fuel pressure down. You not going to gain any better return flow on the VP44 when the return hole is tiny any ways. Pull the overflow valve out and using a mirror and look at it. It's small port.

Oh... Idaho you think is cooler? HA! It was a 100*F here yesterday typically I see 115 to 117*F in Riggins, ID. Elevation ranges from 700 feet in Lewiston, ID to 9,000 feet at Heaven's Gate (Riggins, ID). Looking at what temps are around the VP44 intake is more dominant about fuel temp than block temperature typically. Being the intake temps roughly what fuel temp will be. Injectors wise depending on how old / miles could be the pop pressure is low. OD on an auto makes the final ratio smaller just by a bit more. 0.75 vs 0.69. Then I can throw in rotational mass as for every 1 pound of rotational mass you can ditch is like 8 pounds off the frame. Bigger and heavier tires will make for higher engine loads. Hence why I ran the other direction away from large tires down to smaller tire to reduce engine loading. Gives me better efficiency all the way around ditching extra rotational mass that just only looks cool, and steals power. Being Iv'e got grades around here that most don't think about. Several roads are between 10 to 16% grades around here. Just like I've gotta head back to Anatone, WA to finish my injection pump project on a CASE C580 back hoe. That trip is nothing but up and down mountains. Running as high as 4,000 feet and dropping to mere 700 feet above sea level. Temperatures on my last trip were around a 100*F in Lewiston, ID during the day. Other than some mechanical differences climate wise its pretty close.

Can't forget "The Chicken Man". Even though I've never met the man in person yet. I've talked to many times on the phone for years. He's just part of the family here. Just showed up hungry and just never left.

More holes typically will have a better atomization, better burn, cleaner for street application. 7 x 0.010 is what I'm running but it works out to 150 HP injectors on 24 valve trucks.

Typically on my truck the IAT and fuel temp run the same temps.