Mopar1973Man

Now that could be seen by watch mechanical boost gauge vs MAP sensor pressure of the Quadzilla. Possibly the Smarty left a glitch behind? Exactly. So if you set it for 150% and engine load is 50% then Quadzilla multiply 50% x 150% = 75%. All the Quadzilla is doing is grabbing the fuel message multiply it by the set fuel number and then result is the new CANBus fuel message for the VP44. The VP44 can only go to 4095 fueling value (or 100% engine load). Once that is hit CANBus is done can't go any farther. This is where the wiretap can push a bit farther over the top. Adding 1,200us to 2,200us worth of pulse on top. Like @Me78569 pointed out to me long time ago you can reach 100% fuel with mere 120% CANBus, which is very true. My Economy tune only goes to 123% and max'ed out the CANBus. That's my thought too. Just can't quite figure out what is missing in this either. Shouldn't have to max everything out with 220 HP injectors and twin turbos.

Something is not right. The only thing I can think of from here is try with @Me78569 and / or @Quadzilla Power...

Add the engine load to your display or the fueling number. Watch the engine load to see if you reach 100% when you want. Or... Watch the fueling number to reach 4095 which is max commanded canbus fuel. Also remember more fuel typically requires more timing might look over your timing set up as well. Smarty stack is not suggested or recommended by us or Quadzilla Power. All your going to do is make the throttle a light switch. Horrible idea... Even with my truck I can get the tires to break free with as little as 1,700us of wiretap and reaching 150% CanBus at 26 to 30 PSI of boost. Just dumping 100% fuel right out of the hole is just flooding out the turbo and won't burn. When the fuel map is configured right you should see a small bit of smoke but by that time turbo should be well on its way to being fully spooled and then wiretap should kick in just a split second later. Mine is rather mean from light to light by 3rd gear the rear tires are typically smoking. I think your trying to drop too much fuel in and it choking to death on fuel and cant get spooled fast enough.

Still running my 4G AirDog 165 on the 2G AirDog 150 filter base no issues. Only drop my typical 2 to 3 PSI. Been the same from Stock injectors to 150 HP injectors. @rogerash0 on the other hand has a bit more injector than me and most likely a lower pop pressure. Like my economy tune I want the wire tap on top not at the launch. This allows me to get past the torque management and when I hit 3rd gear it unlocks torque management and the wire tap stacks on after the turbos are spun up and it continues to push down the pavement quickly. My wiretap is after 15 PSI so the whole bottom end is just CANBus fuel with a max of mere 120%. I can still reach 100% CANBus fueling with this just takes more pedal and just a bit more time. Now where the wire tap is dropped in is what makes the boost of power.

Too low yet. Idle is 17 PSI and then WOT 15 PSI. Your losing the overflow valve under load, then losing the cooling part of the fuel flow. Set you boost limit. Then when the next time you cross your set limit then the Quadzilla will fire up the wiretap when boost goes above the set limit. I typically set it high enough that turbo is spooled up good before adding the wiretap. Now in my economy tune I changed to 15 PSI (point at which it starts) of boost with a 0% lead in (starting at 0% up to 100%, and 40 PSI boost limit (point at which it reaches 100% wire tap) Now in my performance tune I changed to 5 PSI (point at which it starts) of boost with a 10% lead in (starting at 10% up to 100%, and 30 PSI boost limit (point at which it reaches 100% wire tap) No TPS limits used. All boost controlled, starting point, how much lead in, and when its 100%. Boost Scaling - This is the amount of boost needed for 100% wire tap. Pump low Boost scale PSI - This is the starting point of the wiretap in boost. Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percent - This is the amount of lead in fuel tap.

I just pulled the trigger on stock. I'm going to start simple and work it up bigger. Starting with standard exterior bulbs like the brake lights and such. I've placed an order for bulbs and should have them in stock by the end of the week. Any request for bulbs, colors, types, etc. Please post up and I'll do what I can to meet your demands.

Firmware up to date?

Check the IAT and ECT sensor at startup in the morning cold. IAT and ECT sensor should match at key on, no start. Take a IR temp gun and measure the brass part of the ECT sensor. The coolant temperature should be close. IAT typically matches on my truck in the morning even in Arizona. I was just down there in June and it was 118*F during the day and start the morning at 80*F. (Mohave Valley, AZ)

I would contact @Quadzilla Power and most likely have your unit sent into them for repair.

Quadzilla vs Truck is fine. Quadzilla iQuad App left running and sitting in the house the phone will complain about WiFi connection is being slowed by the iQuad Apps. It ask for me to shut down that app to gain back WiFi signal.

Because level 2 cuts CANBus and limits to 100% cuts off anything above 100% fuel map. I've ran never had one issue with Edge Comp for over 10 years on 5x5. Then running Quadzilla on level 7 most of the year and no issues. VP44 history. Stock OEM failed at 50k miles. P0216 code (stuck retarded) Warranty pump lasted 243k miles. P0216 code (293k clock - stuck full advanced) DAP pump currently running 122k miles (415k clock)

245/70 R17 would be the same as my 245/75 R16 I'm running. 31.6 inch tire (265/75 R16) is the neutral point of 3.55:1 final ratio. 265/75 R16 is same as 265/70 R17. 245/75 R16 is the same as 245/70 R17 this makes the final ratio 3.68:1. If you can barrow a set of 245's for a test run you'll see what I mean. Also... 215/85 R16 is what I run on the 1996 Dodge 1500. Which is just like the 245/75 R16 for 30.6 inches but narrow tires. This gave that truck huge boost in power and made it quicker. 3.70:1 final ratio. Then a Dynamic Built transmission to the upgrades too.

CANBus doesn't need scaling down. Being you can reach MAX CaNBus (4095 fueling number) at any point you want. You can cut CANBus as low as 50% fuel. Wiretap is the uncontrolled one being adding the max timing 2,200 microseconds of pulse. The levels allow to find the max CANBus without flooding out the turbo (excessive smoke).

Yup I typically suggest the AirDog out here. I won't suggest the FASS because of the filter being in the impact path. If anything hangs below the frame rail it can be hit while offload. The last FASS I installed had more problems with gelling and freeze ups. Rear tires kept throwing snow on the filters and pump motor till it just quits. AirDog can be hind much easier like mine is hidden behind the transfer case and skid plate protects the filters. Even with temps as low as -40*F and now over 350k miles on this system I've NEVER gelled once. I've lost the first pump after 250k miles. Now this pump is still going and I'm at 415 k miles now. Fuel temps are nice and low too below 120*F normally.

Level 4 to level 10 is basically the wiretap split up. I typically go from 0 to 7 levels (8 in the settings page). Now why... Level 4 is 25% wiretap Level 5 is 50% wiretap Level 6 is 75% wiretap Level 7 is 100% wire tap If you set for 11 levels that would be 10% per level of wiretap.

Just unplug the fuel heater. Best setup yet with 30.5 Inch tires. These get the final ratio down to 3.69:1 to the road and awesome for towing. Never once did I have a EGT issue all the way to Arizona also towing my 31 foot RV. Even with 7% grades, cruise set for 65 MPH, EGTs land right at 1,000 to 1,100*F and the Quadzilla on my tow tune and set for KILL! Even empty running at 82 MPH at 2,500 RPM I still can hit 21 MPG. On that trip was 14.7 MPG Max, 12.6 MPG Avg, low was 9.6 MPG. Again this is because I gave up drag of larger tires and opted for smaller tires for lower ratio which lessen drag on the engine. So my normal daily driving I land right at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH. Very optimal for daily driving here in the mountains. I'm use to seeing 500*F to 600*F EGT's around 60 to 65 MPH stuff. Then my average engine load on flat ground 82 MPH is about 25% engine load. Look above it was only 22% engine load. Boost is like 5 to 7 PSI at 82 MPH!!! Look above the EGT's was a mere 683*F at 82 MPH.

Correct. Level 1 is valet mode. But this is not used for warm up. Valet mode. In other words a secure fuel environment for people that don't understand high power Cummins truck. I set it very low for tire shops or security methods. If my truck was stolen the driver would give up rather quickly and ditch the truck than running with it. Warm Up mode automatically selects level 0 and the bar is GREEN. This period of time during warm up your on ECM software for timing. Fueling is limits to the 0 PSI only. Now Selecting level 0 after Warm Up then your on ECM fuel and timing. (Stock ECM Tune). Level 2 is all defuel part of the CANBus fuel map till 100% and stops right there at stock fuel. Level 3 is full CANBus fuel map.

Not normal, really. Actually high... Even with 201*F coolant, 175*F engine oil temperature, my VP44 fuel temp is only 84*F. This is even cruising at 82 MPH down the interstate. Just for me to reach the I84 interstate is a 2.5 hour drive for me. Truck is fully warmed up after 125 mile trip.

Couple of frozen chickens, frozen veggies, frozen fruit for smoothies. Doing the healthy thing...

Not enough volume of fuel... My truck the IAT and Fuel Temp are the same. Typically lately its about 112*F max. Still running the 4G AirDog 165 pump on the 2G AirDog 150 base. Full 1/2 inch plumbing from tank to injection pump.

No. Only used for Level 1 power. So in my case I use it for a security level. When I park I set the Quad for Level 1. Now if anyone steals my truck it only rolls at about 20 MPH tops. Even at this setting its more than enough power for tires shops to drive the truck. Warm Up mode is level ZERO. Which is stock ECM no Quadzilla tune at all till your reach your coolant setting. Now the max fuel in the warm up is the 0 PSI column of the CANBus fueling. It will hold 0 PSI till it unlocks then the entire table is used when RED power bar is seen. As for me I run quite a bit of timing. I step up 4.5 degrees on each band... 14, 18.5, 23, 27.5... You should be able to run even more.

Alternator could be bad with failed diodes.

I only do 3 lines period. 1, 3, and 4. Leave the others alone. Now the 3 open lines will purge fast allowing to build pressure in the other lines. Now where its starts to fire stop and tighten 1, 3, 4 again. Hold the throttle about 25%crank again this will provide more pressure too and typically starts easy.

Congrads... I've been enjoying towing my RV too.

Swap the TPS to 0 to 100% then set the boost limit to 10 or 15 PSI then the wiretap stays out till the turbos spool then the fuel map follows the TPS fully. Because 100% TPS will equal 100% wiretap after the boost limit is reached. When you set the max tps less than 100% that means it will cap out early so if set at 65% the wiretap is maxed out at 65% tps value. Better to tune to boost than tps because the smoke. My economy tune... Now my performance tune. This can light my tire fairly easy.