Mopar1973Man

I can give this much... I created a massive boost leak on my truck to test the boost leak theory. I removed one intake manifold bolt, and remove the wastegate hose from the turbo. Took it out for a drive typically I can reach 47 PSI of boost. With this massive leak I still reached 43 PSI of boost, EGT's where unaffected by the leak. The air whistling out of the two spots was very loud and couldn't be miss. I drove for several miles like this with no ill effect. 7 x 0.010 Injectors HX35/40 Hybrid turbo (60/60/12) Quadzilla on KILL (Level 7) Even with a massive leak you can hear it will not change the boost or EGT's very much.

I've never had that happen... I've had the reverse of that happen and finding the front diff mixed with water.

Still doesn't fix the excessive long ground issue. This ground lead is TOO LONG! Still running right pass the alternator charge line.

Start at about 80% and work your way up. Also I would have to know several other factors. Tires size Axle ratio Transmission Injector pop pressure Turbo

I had @Dynamic build my 46RE in my 1996 Dodge 1500 to be more like a 47RE. He milled a 0.1 of a inch off the overdrive and direct clutch added an extra clutch disc and added cooling jets to the body of the case to keep the clutches cooled and lubed properly. The custom modified valve body that shifts firm. This is one tough little transmission and it shift like one too.

Should of talked to me first there is a much better way.

No.. Please don't. That creates a masked problems. Best to leave all filters off the system fix the source. Don't mask with filters.

Missing at idle only warm is typically a sign of injectors failing. You can pull the injectors and clean them up using my article. If this buys you time then you injectors are nearly wore out and the pop pressure might be low too. You can check that with a live data tool like OBDLink LX or Quadzilla tuner.

Now like my little 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has this issue but its got really soft springs in the front and rear. Shock have a lot of time (7 years) but barely 20k miles on them.

You should just do the W-T ground mod and PCM protection fuse then you don't have to worry about ECM or PCM replacement. That problem is taken care of. As for just getting a replace ECM and PCM I would go with matched sets. Find the same ECM for the same year. There is like 53 versions of software per model year. Getting the wrong software is very frustrating and can pose bigger issues just trying to correct. ECM and PCM should come from the same truck too. This just reduces the amount of problems. Also remember the ECM is a secondary computer and the PCM is the primary computer. US Federal, US california, vs. Canada Emissions 2WD vs. 4WD Automatic vs. Manual High Output vs. Standard Output Fly by wire cruise vs vacuum motor cruise Security Fob vs. No security These are just few differences software wise that could make a break getting the right ECM and PCM.

Grid heater relay. Check the small wires on the two relays on the driver fender.

2500 Series seems to turn tighter than the 3500 series truck either 2WD or 4WD. I've never actually measures the rings of pitch a full left or right turn but it seem that I typically need more room for the 1 ton trucks more so.

https://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0338/ Double check the 5V reference signal make sure its 5V signal. Make sure the sensor ground is good without it it could be hi volt code. More about the source voltage than sensor return.

Warm up the truck in the evening and park it in the shop if available. Then drop the oil plug and the oil filter and let it drain all night long. This will get a majority of the mess out of the crankcase. @Dieselfuture is right it could be a bad oil cooler. Others cracked head, bad head gasket are possible. Mine when the head gasket start to fail it leaked externally. Rear right of the down the back of the block. I had head curl. I also had back valve guides and bad valve seal excess oil smoke at start up. Cost about $2,000 to do head studs, gasket kit, and the machine work for the head and valves.

415k miles no leaks on the alxes and working as designed. I do check the vents from time ot time.

Yup your right... It is a AC noise issue...

So far everyone that did the mod had huge reductions in AC noise. The only thing I can say is have the alternator bench tested again and verify its good and not got any bad or weak diodes. To this day I'm still right about 10 to 12mv AC. Alternaotr made it past one year now and still going.

Here Here!

Yeah I totally missed this is 3rd Gen trucks... Yes its ATF fluid its is correct. No. I destroyed my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon with lift kits and oversized truck which forced me to replace my 1972 Dodge (202k miles when it left my care) with the 2002 Dodge I've got now. The 1972 Dodge only barely had 202k miles and I broke the front axles numerous times. Snap the wheel joints, ball joint failed quickly, damaged the tie rod ends. Broke and rebulit 3 different steering boxes. Burned up 2 power steering pumps. This why I turned from the leveling to stock setup. This is because the engineers design it to have particular geometry and when you alter that design then the driveability and stability is lost, then longevity is sacraficed. 1972 Dodge Power Wagon 1973 Dodge Charger SE (hence my nickname this was my first car) 1976 Dodge Power Wagon (Mom's) 1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 (Cummins) I've never played with Mopars...

Like myself I've got two 2nd Gen trucks one is a 1996 Dodge 1500 and then the 2002 Dodge 2500 seen above. This truck I dropped the oversized (235/85 R16) tire the previous owner ran to the 215/85 R16 and this truck is now a rocket ship on rails. Rake is level once the trailer is loaded. This truck has a 187k miles and the ball joints, tie rod ends, power steering pump and gear box are all OEM original yet. Towing improved, again gear ratio is 3.70:1 final with a 3.55 axles. This transmission is a 46RE auto so with the smaller tires it better MPG and lower drag because it lower to the pavement.

Wrong fluid NEVER use ATF in these system it will ruin the pump and gear box seals. MUST use strictly power steering fluid. Then the baster method does not work the entire system holds nearly 2 quarts. You only getting a few ounces out. You need to do a full flush of the system. Pull the return line from the gear box route it into a bucket. Then with the axle raised and engine off but steering unlocked go lock to lock slowly and the gear box will pump all the fluid out. Then keep filling the system till the fluid coming out is clean. Then hook up the line and top off and work the wheel again lock to lock a few times to work the air out. Check the fluid level. Now drop to the floor and start the engine go for a drive. Check the fluid again if foamy let it set and top off again. Power Steering fluid should be changed every 3 years or 30,000 miles or which comes first. Power Steering Fluid ONLY - NO ATF! Synthetics not suggested... 415k miles still got my factory pump. The rake is there for trailer towing or heavy bed load like his slide in camper. Leveling kits just distroy the geometry of the axle and create instability. So as you put any load in the bed the truck will squat. Basically now you got to do what @JAG1 does and now add air bags to the rear to gain level again while hauling weight. Should just return to stock height or most of 1 inch leveling kit. Even @JAG1 was fighting instability with his truck now drop back to 1 inch leveling kit and gain back some. JAG1 truck hidden partial by the tree... Yup I've got to play with his truck too... Tidbit... Dodge switch to ATF in 2003. This is because the Saginaw steering box was replaced by a Ford power steering pump and Ford steering box. So 2003 and foreward is all Ford Steering equipment. As for the past that was all Saginaw Steering boxes and require Power Steering fluid NOT ATF. (Note: I didn't see any signature information I assumed 2nd Gen body... It's 3rd Gen body as the tpoic is posted here.) Another tidbit... As I check scale weight often. Empty my front axle is typically 4,400 pounds. With my Trailer hitch up it 4,250-4,300 pounds (depends on how much tongue weight). This is because of the leverage of my load pull the weight off the front axle. I've got a weight distribution hitch as well. Without it it get much lighter in the front. The frame turns into a long lever with any load in the bed. Hence the natural rake is to keep the weight on the front axle for stability and control of the vehicle. With a leveling kit you taking that rake load off the front axle and losing control.

As long as your using the 35w ballast for the bulbs they should last a very long time. The 50w ballast would be brighter but shortens the bulb life considerably. I opted for only the 35w blubs and ballast.

That is exactly what i seen over the Edge Comp. Look at the silicone boot at Vulcan Performance or DAP. Stock boots if you need to make them stick. Spray Home Depot Orange degreaser on the nipples and wipe off. Then spray the boot and wipe the boot off clean. Then spray the boot again and install. Thew orange degreaser will make the boot slick feeling and slide on easy but as soon as it dries it lock on ther you will need a screwdriver to pry it off typically. Works great on my stock boots and even my Vulcan Performance boots.

Never bothered with a spare set of lights. Already like 2 or 3 years old of every other day of driving to Ontario, OR. I typically ran my headlight there and back ever day. There is a lot of running hours on my headlights. If one blows I would most likely replace both bulbs at the same time with 5k when the time comes.

What size tires are you running to require a 2 inch leveling kit? I've also got to ask is it 2WD or 4WD? I'm at 415k miles. I've never had death wobble or loose steering ever. The biggest factor is leveling kits and over sized tires create the stress on the track bar and steering box. Then the leveling kit distorts the the geometry of the front axle as you use leveling kits its pushing the axle down and rearward. Then it changes the caster of the front tires. I need more information on tires sizes, what you use the truck for etc. Being I'm running 245/75 R16 I was able to take an upgrade to quick ratio steering box. This is not suggest with tires over 31" inches. Quick ratio steering boxes cannot handle extra stress from over sized tires (greater than 31") or lift kits. This make my steering tight and quick to react. Smaller tire have little leverage on the steering system so darting is way less common. Since I'm running the 245/75 R16 tires it had giving me a good bump in towing power making the final ratio 3.69:1 instead of 3.55 with 265/75 R16 tires. This provides way more towing power and makes the truck quicker than any oversize tire could. Funny I just out towed a 4th gen with a RV walk right round him. Since I've always used smaller tires my tie rods ends lasted 350k miles, ball joints on this set ar over 200k miles. Track bars are going 150k miles. Steering box OEM lasted 350k miles seal leaking. Brakes go 200k to 300k miles now. At 66 MPH I'm exactly 2k RPM's on the tach. I've done several high speed studies with the smaller tires I'm lower drag in wind (less vertical face) so even at 80 MPH twisting 2,450 RPM I'm still getting 21 MPG (empty truck). 62 feet long, 17,300 pounds, capable of 14.1 MPG, right around 500 HP with Quadzilla and 7 x 0.010 injectors. 415k miles on the clock and just hauled 1,800 miles to AZ and back to ID. Only trouble I had was trans temp. (115 to 118*F down there) Need adjust able track bar to reset the thrust angles to correct. Lift kit cancel out the natural self center where the axle have a back lean to aid in centering now you push the axle down and rearward the caster is gone so it darts. Ball joint will be a common task to continue doing if there is over sized tires. I will beat the ball joint constantly. Smaller the tire below 32" will prevent that. As for high quality ball joints they really don't exist with over sized tires. Like my truck I stuck in a set of CHEAP Rockauto ball joints 200k miles ago and still tight. The only way to extend the ball joint life is going down in tire size and keeping the tire narrow if possible. Wide face tires put a lot of stress on the ball joint every time your turn the wheel. Never needed one or used one. Geometry is way out on the front axle between the lift kit and any over sized tires. Thrust angle is alter because the axle is push down and the solid track bar length forces the axle to be to the driver side of the truck. So now the natural straight line is gone.