Mopar1973Man

If so you might have to send the Quadzilla back for warranty repairs.

At least by 1996 was RE styled transmissions. My 1996 has a 46RE. That has to be either 47RH or 47RE. 4 - How many forward gears 7 - Scale of 1 to 10 of how much torque it can take. R - Rear wheel drive vehicle. E - Electronic Shift 4th Gear. -or- H - Hydraulic Shift 4th Gear. Still all based on the original 727 Torqueflite transmission from the 60's. 46RE's are used in the half ton trucks. 47RH or 47RE were used in all 3/4 ton and 1 tons. Majority is 47RE. 48RE came out in the 3rd Gen body.

You need some slack in the gear to prevent binding up over the center position. You add slack to prevent it from binding up. If 1.5 turns is still stiff add another 0.5 turn out. If you removed the box and rebuilt it you would do the same thing bottom out and set you slack. Just the output shaft has nothing attached. So backing off is easy because no drag link hanging.

Basically if you keep twisting the adjustment downward or tightening the output shaft is push down into the the rack of the gear. Now once bottom is found you lift up with your hand and push the output shaft back up as you get your slack adjustment. The weight of the drag link and the pitman arm prevents the adjustment screw to lift the full load. Just using the screw you'll get roughly 3/4 of turn and it will stop, till you lift the pitman arm up pushing the output shaft back up since the adjustment screw can't lift the weight. Looking at the photo the adjustment screw is on the other side. Pushing downward or towards us in the photo. The drag link is hanging from the output shaft. Soo as the adjustment goes tighten (downward) int the gear rack then it will hit bottom. Now lifting up allowing the screw to lift the output shaft back up from bottom to set your slack.

Quadzilla does not use IAT signal in any part of the tunes. Be aware that using level zero you return back to ECM software and then the IAT signal is used. Don't use a K&N filter good way to dust out an engine. Every time you wash the filter the media is being broke down and bigger and more particulates will pass through the filter. True test is K&N filter run up a dirt road and then white glove the turbo. I'm pretty sure you'll chuck that K&N in the trash. Also if you are a big washable filter fan there is washable oil filters but I don't know anyone crazy enough to use it. MAP sensor on the Quadzilla does not always show accurate numbers. Like on mine my ISSPro boost gauge shows a max boost of 47 to 49 PSI. Then Quadzilla will record a max boost of 69 PSI. I don't worry about the MAP sensor because the 0 to 30 PSI is OK. Close enough being that's all the Quadzilla uses for the CANBus fueling.

Automatics ground the starter solenoid relay. Manuals use a slide switch to supply +12V to the starter solenoid relay.

So very true. I'm also got a Quadzilla Adrenaline been running it now for 5 years. If you want to disable the Quadzilla just set it for level ZERO and it stock once again and you can drive on that and realize that you lost quite a bit of power. I've gone from the 235 HP/460 TQ to somewhere around 500 HP now and still capable of reaching 21 MPG. My list of mods... https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

Yes you can but... Grid heater will not shut off above 20 MPH so be aware. Battery charge time needs to be extended. Cruise control doesn't work need to be above 30 MPH to set.. High idle will work but will not cancel from no speed signal. Speedometer will not work. Lack of signal. Might impact automatic trans being road speed is considered.

Yup, I run the the adjustment screw all the way to bottom just lightly seating then I back off from bottom 1.5 turn to give slack to the gear teeth. You'll have to lift the output shaft a bit so you can get the slack you need. You can do the 1/4 turn method but you might have to do it like 20 times till you get the slack taken up.

Because you are looking at the same sensor. This why you need a external boost guage.

Ouch... Yup, I'm could use a bit of that stimulus check.

Yup. Level zero basically shut down the entire Quadzilla. It only in read mode read data but there is no enhancement. Strictly Stock ECM software.

I would call warranty on ABS module if it was repaired or rebuilt.

Should be pretty solid. Might cycle if super humid. Thats when the evaporator gets covered in ice.

Very possible... Still you should hear the pulsing sounds from the manifold as a ticking noise. Still you should hear it. Not to mention you'll see the black carbon tracks. Possible. You would have to pull the turbo to verify the wastegate is truly shut. Good question. Boost gauge should be used over the Quadzilla boost display. Mine is no where close after about 20 PSI is starts skewing badly. Funny part is mine is reverse. WOT my Quadzilla recorded me with a max boost of 69 PSI. Seriously doubt that... Where my ISSPro only shows the typical 47 to 49 PSI.

I wouldn't worry most modern vehicles today run halo lighting and in white LEDs. As long as the turn signal turns amber in the front then your fine. Like most modern car cancel the white halo and switch to amber turn signals. I've got switchback LED's in both trucks now still no issues with them either locally or on trips for the last year or so.

Even a 5 PSI loss of boost should be audible. Just pulling the the wastegate line and one manifold bolt out and it very loud and you won't miss that. With that those 2 leaks on my truck this only dropped me from the 47 to 42 PSI of boost. Still not adding up.

Something isn't adding up. My first set of +50HP I was getting over 35 PSI. Then upgraded to +75HP (7 x 0.0085) I was just touching 40 PSI. Then now with current +150HP (7 x 0.010) I'm nearly 50 PSI.

Might be... Depends on the air temperature in the evaporator. As the intake air cools the lo side pressure will fall and cause the lo side switch to cycle in and out. If the outside air is near 35*F it will cycle. Below this typically is will not even start at all because now the lo side pressure will fall so far that prevents the A/C from starting. I would check the pressure just to be safe on a warm day.

Doesn't affect me much... Where I like to camp or travel to there is no internet or cell service typically. All building get locked up, gate is closed and locked. Neighbors are informed. Since I travel where there is no signal I've don't have any way to post up pictures of my travel till I return home. Like my last spot I barely have 1X signal for my cell phone and could make a phone call but no internet. Like Eileen's T-Mobile didn't work at all no signal at all. I'm on Verizon which all the local towers are Verizon owned. My next adventure might be well beyond cellphones here soon.

I've got an article for both sides of the 2nd gens... 98.5 to 02 Then the older... 94 to 98...

7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar and HX35/40 Hybrid turbo (60/60/12) I'm smacking 47-49 PSI. Using my Quad Tunes. I'm slowly working on a good towing tune.

Those are eight 50w solar panel on a solid frame. Facing south and about 45* up. By summer the sun is 90* above us and during the winter the sun arc is very low in the south about 4 hours of light. Then the other thing I did yesterday is going to save us 50 a month by loading up my BigTex trailer and truck bed with the last of Eileen's stuff from storage. Got home just in time last night before today's rain storm. I'll be unloading the trailer and the truck at some point today.

Vacuum leak will push oil out of the crankcase vent. Vacuum pump can be rebuilt. I sell the kits here.