Mopar1973Man

Give a bit more time. I'm building a winter tune as well. Last tank netted 19.06 MPG with running temps of 20 to 30*F. Current timing... 14.0, 17.5, 21.0, 24.5 I've had a bucking issues between 1,200 to 1,400 RPM forever. Right at 30 MPH is a PITA going through Council, ID every trip. Bucking for the entire 2 miles. I'm pretty sure if I turn off the Quad it would go away.

Biggest problem making sure you have a tablet or device that is up to date OS. Like myself I've got my old Azpen Tablet but out of the box it was only Android 4.0 which is too old to use. As for timing I'm working at building a optimal tune for winter yet and getting close to another 20+ MPG even in 0*F to 30*F weather.

Yup. Check for error codes. Preferred method is with a live data tool and check the TPS value while you drive. If the TPS value maxes out or drops to zero it should set a code instantly. Then check for error codes. If your going to replace the APPS use a Timbo's APPS. Totally mechanical APPS with ZERO electronics.

1688 is the PSG on the VP44 is fried. This is caused by excessive AC noise which is bad alternator and poor ground issues. W-T ground wire mod will fix this from happening again.

My last delete pipe (steel) last nearly just 2 years and the whole tail section fell out. Rusted out...

There is only one Windows, there is only one Mac... Linux there is thousands of flavors. Android, Chromebook, Ubuntu, Linux Mint, etc. All the same Linux family.

Most all sensors can be verified with live data tool. Like the APPS can be verified without replacing.

I was at 4.5 spread and the starting at 14*. Then now dropped to 4.0 spread and gained 2 MPG. Now dropped to 3.5 spread fine out if I get the MPG's up. The cetane means more than than intake air. The high cetane fuels this winter ignite super easy high timing is counter productive in the winter.

My train horn was awesome but I mounted the compressor in the bumper area and the road water and dirt ruined the little compressor. I've got to replace my compressor.

I've been on Ubuntu Linux since 2006 or so. Linux Mint is a sub family of Ubuntu Linux. Ubuntu is the main root of the Debian family and then Linux Mint is a offshoot of the Ubuntu (lime green line at the bottom).

Yup. Everyone is going to ask for the cost of the VP44 and then the 4 hours shop fee (120 and hour at most shops). If he was close to me I would do the install as a favor. If it was closer I would love to buy it...

Just another one of the Linux family. I'm just like you I'm running Asus laptop but instead of the Chrome OS just switched to Ubuntu Linux. The other favorite is the Linux Mint which appears to be a noobie favorite being it looks nearly the same as Windows. https://ubuntu.com/ https://linuxmint.com/ https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os

Such a shame. Walking past a good truck that is rated for 1 million miles. I'm at 402k miles now.

350k miles from my factory radiator. I still have it and plan on have the header tank repaired and putting my OEM back in service in the future. There is ZERO scale build up and just the rubber seal that failed.

Load it up with Ubuntu Linux and problem solved. My current Asus Laptop never got the chance to even load up the Windows 10. It was fired up on Ubuntu Linux and never looked back. No virus issues. Very secure operating platform. Windows software including the browser is known to be very weak towards being hijacked on the internet. Advanced User: When you get virus infected email it fun to open them up in Linux. Since Linux will not load any file that is not marked for "Executable" then the file is only opened to read in to leafpad or similar text editor. This allows you to look at the payload that normally windows would normally open and install the virus. Linux will not do this being you would have to mark the file as executable then log in as ROOT and then execute the payload to install the virus. Like the other cool thing you can separate your Linux OS from the home folder. Meaning Linux can be on one drive and the home folder on a second drive. This secures even deeper being that the OS in on a different drive. This machine has been running for 8d 21h. No anti-virus software to bog it down. I've got 22 GB of RAM only using barely 3G of RAM. This machine is about 5 years old and still going strong. Better yet no drivers for devices. Stats... Yup I've got A-pillar gauges on my Ubuntu Linux. Gotta keep an eye on the machine as you work it hard.

This why the choices of light is either HALOGEN or HID's. LED's are not a good answer yet till the reflector is designed properly for the LED bulbs. Being HID's are based on lens design there is no issues with using a 50w HID bulb and ballast the only loss is the upgrade there will shorten the bulb life. Like if you could stuff a 9007 in a 9004 housing the pattern would be wrong. Just like looking at all the different LED headlight bulbs. The LEDs can be configured differently which will change the pattern of light off the reflector. This why the HID's are the best you can do because no reflector or fluting of the lens to mess up the pattern. The only version you can do is the H1 Mini's or D2S lens which D2S has a bigger path of light over the H1 Mini's.

Yup. I just did the adjustment on mine last month. I'm cut off very good below the everyone windshield. Like the Morimoto are 3,000 lumens but the pattern of light is on the dim side with the amount of spread your casting in light. Very wide pattern and mild brightness, mellow on the eyes. On high beam it will light a 50 foot tree no problem and light up both sides of the highway. Now with the PIAA being 4,000 lumens and focus more so the road surface it makes a bright spot in the highway. This some times can be blinding myself being salt covered highways are a whitish color or snow covered highway can reflect most of the light back. Again this comes back to how the reflector and lens set up is produced. This is why retrofitting LED's in a normal halogen headlight could be rather blinding being the reflector is not designed for the LED bulbs.

Because its a self adjusting brake light switch once installed the switch adjusts to the arm. When you remove the switch the switch will ratchet out and be maladjusted after that making worthless when you install again.

Be better to just upgrade. That way you not installing junk steel pipe. Welding will rot out quick in the northern states. Like Idaho uses a ton of salt and steel pipe deletes will fail in just a few years.

Be aware BlueChip is not a true rebuilder. He does not have Bosch 815 test stand and not capable of flashing PSG and bench testing the VP44 pump before its sold to the customer. This is a Bosch 815 test stand for calibration of the VP44 PSG module.

Just sent this to a buddy he want to do the same thing to his truck 2006 Dodge Cummins...

Valvoline MTF is good. Mobil 50 SAE is good. PenzOil Syncromech is good. I've used Mobil 50 SAE in my truck no issues. Over powered 5th gear and ate the teeth off the gear. I've done several services on customer trucks and used both PenzOil and Valvoline both and no issues at all for the NV4500. No need for Redline and AMSOil fluids. There is a wide field of fluids that work in our trucks. GL-4 is the only requirement. Viscosity wise even the Dodge dealer will fill with ATF+4. Personally is too thin. Gotta remember I work on several truck and give options to my customers on what they want to use. I stay and touch and so far no issues.

Comparing my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with stock clear lens with halogens, then @Wet Vette has a 2018 Hyundai with halogen lights still and all the light pattern is fair. Great on the lane and the passenger side but limited to the driver side. Then the Dodge is fair as well but both vehicles are very narrow in light path. I can't see the off the shoulders very well in either vehicle. Just the halogen light being typically in the 800 lumen realm is rather weak in lighting. The whole catch is that lighting must be below 60 watts. Halogens basically run right up to that limit. Now with LED's and HID's making 3000 to 4000 lumens of light for mere 10 to 30 watts means legally you can upgrade but beam pattern has to be looked at and considered carefully with high lumens lighting. Way too many people use LED headlights and never readjust the headlights accordingly to the new pattern. For your safety and others safety you should check your aim and pattern every fall and adjust accordingly.

MAP should trip a code if its out of range. If you had a Quadzilla tuner you can watch the boost pressure on the display to see if the sensor is damaged. Ill admit most MAP sensors are skewed and not very accurate. Like my truck only goes to 47 PSI but Quadzilla shows a max of 67 PSI. Which I know is highly skewed. My 0 to 20 PSI is good but above 25 PSI is starting to skew.

Only ECM. Nothing else...