Mopar1973Man

I'm at 3.69 final ratio. 245/75 R16 tires vs. 265/75 R16 tires (stock). But I'm 3.55 geared axles. At 82 MPH turning exactly 2,500 RPM. Still getting upwards of 20 MPG. High RPM is not a issue and is way more efficient than 3.55 gears on 31.6" tires (265/75 R16) and use a 245/75 R16 which is 30.5" inch tires. Beast can fry the tires in every gear but 5th gear.

Personally i dont believe so. First thing i did was turned of all TV. Second of i turned all American Social Media and jump on Tiktok and watch watch live congressional videos that are live. No i don't want 3 letter media news because it's all a lie. Now as for my travels on Tiktok the world is going around just fine. Like one gent reported back about Rednote social media and informed that in China they only pay 0.94 cent per pound for corn. Yup our Govt screwed us. As for the end times I've heard of this like 4 times since I've been in Idaho. Everytime something bad happen everyone claims it's the end times. I'm still here. So there is no end.

You are going to need an updated mainshaft and 5th gear. Also take note the torque of that nut is very high like 300 foot pounds. I'm pretty sure @Doubletrouble would know. Please do not just use a chisel and hammer to tighten the nut. It will fail again. Do not weld the nut either this will weaken the mainshaft.

Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner.

I've done a trip from Ontario, OR to New Meadows ID was 125 mile trip in 4th gear limited to 45 MPH. I would suggesting fixing the transmission or haul it on a trailer there.

Inside the cab fuse box has plastic holder ls to pull out draw items like IOD fuse (Ignition Off Draw). Just pull the plastic holder and it will hold the fuse out of the socket for you. @Threadzy is right you should measure all your amperage draw total and on each fuse circuit to find the draw. Typically should be less than 100mA DC or less than 0.1 Amp DC

I'm still waiting to see this truck run. Oh it's going to be pretty and a radical oldie.

Cover your grill and you'll make 210°F easy. No your fan will not lock up excessively either.

Shaking my head. If it's a Timbos there is no voltage to set. Just be sure the bellcrank hits the idle contacts.

Could you point out that page for me?

Heck I just did a live video on Tiktok just about an hour ago.

Yeah I need to possibly update my articles.

200℉ Cummins ThermostatI've been experimenting with hotter coolant temperatures and found for most daily drivers this is a good way to go. The added heat actually will improve the MPG number just slightly and reduce EGT's slightly. Gates - 34212 - 200℉This is direct replacement number. It will fit into your 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9L engine without any modifications. ResultsSummer operation floats right around 204 to 210℉ coolant temperatures. With the tuning I've done on Quadzilla the engine oil temperature will stay 30 to 35℉ cooler than coolant. This stays the same for even wintertime operations with no issues so far in one year of operation even towing. In the picture below I'm using the transmission sensor in the oil gallery at the oil filter. Why hotter?Simply put the cooler you make the coolant the more the difference of temperature between the fire in the cylinder and the coolant will attract more heat energy back into the coolant wasting a percentage of power because of thermodynamics. The hotter you make the coolant the more heat energy there is for ignition of the fuel and don't require large amounts of timing to heat the fuel mist to a vapor to make it go bang. Remember liquid fuel doesn't burn till it is heated rapidly by compression and turned to a vapor now it will ignite easily. The other part is the less the expanding gases are cooled by coolant more power can be delivered to the wheels. View full Cummins article

Keep me posted please...

Both really. It is random depending on how deep the rail drains out. I've left both the lift pump gauge hooked up and typically watch the live data tool. Again numbers vary based on how much the rail drains off. Those are two different run cycles showing the changes from one start cycle to the next. Since this article I've been fighting this..

All your testing are no good. You need a DVM capable of less than 2 volts AC with multiple frequencies, not just 60 hz. A household DVM will do this, which is why your test data is confusing. Look for a DVM like a Fluke or SnapOn DVMs which are very capable of multifrequencies and voltages less than 2 volts. Just look your DVM has a 200 VAC setting too large. Needs to be 2 VAC or less.

Go over to Quadzilla Power website. https://quadzillapower.com/quadzilla-power-high-idle-switch/

Still the logics of the ECM is calling for high return rate possible misaligned injector / crossover tube not seating. This is why the grid heater light and chime. Which also part of loss of prime issue possible all relayed but need to finish and try starting but now wait for mail back and forth.

Even like today I got up and hauled out to the shop to see if I could finish the injector repair. Hit my wall by breaking off a terminal of the injector. Ok. Having been out of service for 1 full year, I'm allowed to make mistakes. Oh well, I'll still get it fixed just delayed repairing one injector. Yesterday I got the injectors out and needed a can of brake clean and scotch brite pads. I got to McCall wearing my split white and black wig and basic black makeup. This older lady in her 60s looked me over and started to chat about my appearance. She enjoyed that I had the spirit to do as I please and be colorful. I went into the store and came back out and she was still there and she started a new conversation with me again. It's to the point I'm getting more people telling me to keep going and don't stop. I've had several people who come up to me to give me a hug from different stores and places. It is very commonplace when I'm dressed as Titanium.

Update... So i pulled all 6 injectors doubled checked the fitting of all parts and made sure all parts were of good condition. Now brake cleaned all parts and mating surfaces to bet sure everything was clean and job is done absolutely right. Now during reassembly I had the terminal post snap off the #1 injector and I'm going to have to send this one out to be serviced and repaired. Sadly I got a delay to fix one injector and already called @dieselautopower and talked to Mitchell and got everything ready to ship out tomorrow. Temporary pause button on Thor for the moment...

Injector inspection. I managed to get all 6 injectors removed. I'm going to town for a scotchbrite pad and brake cleaner.

Here we go. There will be lot more photos and article wrote. 3rd Gen article is building.

Steering wheel radio controls? I'm wondering if the clock spring is making a voltage malfunction in the CTM. Short?

I would start with the key fobs first check batteries and check to see if creating signal. CTM I've not heard of a failure really. Might check wires see if anything is damaged (mice).