Mopar1973Man

What you doing it dropping the gear into the rack. If you go too far into the rack it will bind up. Typically the way I've done it was go all the way to the bottom and then loose back up about 1.5 to 2 turn but you have to help by lifting the output shaft. The adjustment is just allowing the output gear to drop down into the rack.

Actually point it the brass side of the temp sensor. Thermostat housing will most likely show cooler. It the temperature on the other side of the thermostat that counts.

Actual the coolant gauge is typical right on the money. Volt gauge drop to 8V at 11.9V. Oil pressure gauge can go up or down vs coolant temp.

Exactly what is happen with mine I'm running 2.8.4 version. The previous worked perfect. Now its broke again.

No. You can run the Quadzilla headless. Just start the truck and go. My phone is a multi-use tool. I've got the OBDLink LX in the OBDII socket, I've got my Cheap China Bluetooth stereo that I can make phone calls through. Then I've got my Bluetooth headset. You are not forced to keep the iQuad app running. Basically, once the Quadzilla is set up with a tune you can ignore it and it will still work every time you start the truck. If you have gauges on the a-pillar you can just use those and never fire up the iQuad App.

Being you have 245's now you can opt for the quick ratio steering box. Which is very easy to steer. (BlueTop Steering) No issues to report. Everything working well with a Blue Top Steering.

In my case all the other settings remain just the MPG trip data is reset every key on cycle.

Because iPhone has a problem with sending data over Bluetooth.

Personally Android is the best... But I'm a full-blown Linux / Android guy. iDevices tend to be problematic being they are like Microsoft products proprietary to itself. When Linux is Open Source and much easier to work with. Androids are much cheaper to get your hands on.

Optimal temperatures... Coolant temperature: 190°F to 200°F Intake Air Temperature: 100°F to 140°F Fuel Temperature: 100°F to 140°F Coolant temperature needs to be as high as possible to keep thermal efficiency as high as possible. When coolant temperature is too low the burning fuel will lose energy to the cold coolant jacket. Even 200°F thermostat is better than 190°F if you can get one from a 6.7L. Heat is naturally heading towards the coolant jacket cooling the flame front out and reducing the amount of work. Intake Air Temperature needs to be above at least 80°F. Below this ECM kicks up an extra 4° of timing advancement which typically you lose efficiency hence where the MPG fooler came from. Optimal temperature range for MPG is 100 to 140°F. Warmer air vaporizes fuel easier and ignites quickly. Cold air kills MPG numbers. Racing is a different story where you need cold air to control EGT's but with MPG game you need hot air to get the fuel to burn completely. Fuel Temperature is a tight balance being the fuel cools the VP44. Typically the IAT and Fuel Temp follows nearly exactly the same temperatures. Warmer fuel vaporizes easier and ignites quicker. In all the time I've ran the Quadzilla I've never seen the fuel temp over 140°F yet. Above 150°F you start leaning on creating Asphaltenes. Getting closer to the flash point of the fuel makes it burn better. Like on my morning startup I'm still in the 20s and 30s. I lose quite a bit of MPG number till the IAT and Fuel Temp rises. Now on my return trip home my temperatures are much better and Engine Load is much lower and EGT's are nearly rock bottom. At 55 MPH I've seen as low as 400°F to 450°F with cruise control set on flat ground and engine load float about 16%.

Optimal is 190 to 200 degrees. Below 190 you start losing efficiency.

Well?

Warm parts means weak connection. Warm relays should be replaced. Warm fuses should look into contacts and replacement of the fuse.

Now I want to hear about the light and beam pattern. I'm sure you'll like the D2S lens over the H1 Mini lens.

Yes, this is true. Just be aware that Quadzilla can't read error codes. Mechanical gauges would work or even electric gauges. But The ECM must till be hooked up to all the factory sensors. The other thing is to be aware the grid heater will not shut off like they are designed. They require speed signal from the ABS computer so when the vehicle is over 25 MPH it cuts the grid heaters. Then grid heater post-heating is controlled by the battery temp sensor from the PCM. So grid heater functions might have to be manual thing.

Kind of doubt grid heaters will make it stall or cut out. Bad positive lead from the driver side battery to the PDC would cut power completely.

If I'm not mistaken it has to be fuse number 9 in the dash. Gotta keep power to the ECM and PCM to keep it running.

The only thing I can figure out there is the PDC fuse number 1 (50 Amp) fuse powers the fuse block in the dash. That has the IOD fuse 12 in the dash. Look back at the diagrams. The only thing else I can think of is a bad ignition switch why it randomly cuts out.

EGT probe and the red/white wire needs to be hooked up. The red/white wire provides the ignition on power during the cool down. It should be hooked up to the fuse in the dash. If the connection is weak the engine will just shut off. EGT's have to be above your set point for the engine to run on afterward.

Better off sending your valve body to @Dynamic let him upgrade it for you.

Replace the crossover tubes. That all you can do. All it takes is one crumb of dirt to be accidentally allowed in the crossover and it could partially plug it. I'm thinking of anything that could possibly limit fuel flow to the injectors. Being you need compression and fuel to make it ignite. Beyond that, the other side of misfire could be compression. Like one of the old time members here JL Welding, he spent quite a bit of money chasing a misfire issue to find out it was cracked piston. A cracked piston can pass a blowby test but will not pass a compression test which he never did. Ended up doing a short block and fixing the problem.

Kind of hard to do that... How did you open it up to check the edge filter inside? The outside is just part of it. The edge filter is INSIDE the crossover tube. Being that you reused the tubes, again and again, its a possible set of parts the could be a cause. As for the misfire when hot typically my first response is pop test the injectors. Now I wish you still had the Quadzilla I want to ask what is the fuel temp reporting?

It could be possible debris partial plugging a crossover tube. They are also called Edge Filters being there is tapered metal sleeve inside that attempts to beat and debris down to a size that will possibly fit there the nozzle of the injector. Rare but it could be. VP44 for misfire is rather rare to hear to nearly unheard of. Being all it is a pump that makes pressure and sets the timing. There isn't much for magic in that little case. It's up to the injector to open at the set pop pressure and fire the fuel as an atomized mist. The only thing that I can think off is crossover tubes and possibly the delivery valves on the VP44 but even delivery valve failures are unheard of. PSG failure could be but typically it just doesn't run. When does the misfire occur?

I've seen this happen quite a bit. The fuse age and the fuse strip oxidizes. Then get weak and cracks. I've seen a starter solenoid fuse crack that would let a guy crank for about 5 seconds and quit. Wait 10 to 15 minutes and it will crank again. I've had the same thing happen on my truck too. I've seen even the smaller ATC fuses do this too. Easy part for those is run the truck till it fails then grab your test light and go around all the fuses on the test point looking for one that is hot on one side and dead on the other. Short time later it will be hot again. The big square fuses you need to pop the clear cover off and look closely with a magnify glass or carefully with a small tool push on the fuse element looking for separation of the fuse link. Just be careful the fuse won't take much force.

Then most likely not an air issue. You can check with a piece of clear vinyl tubing for air but if the pressure is steady most likely nothing is wrong. You did buy used injectors, didn't you? If so that would be my first spot to look about rough running issues.