Mopar1973Man

What you don't like running transmission that is spec'ed for your 47RE transmission? Strange how NV5600 and NV4500 freak out about keeping spec'ed fluids in use. 47RE mix and match and go for it. If your 47RE it's modified it will run a wider range of fluids. Stock transmission I would have to suggest sticking to the ATF+4.

While you are there look at everything if there is any wetness behind the master on the inside of the firewall or see any wetness in the pin side of the slave cylinder I would consider just replacing. I do not suggest the pre-bled system majority of the time people end up rebleeding the system all over not to mention you can save more on doing it yourself with separate master and slave cylinders.

So is mine. ISSPro EV2. In my case just changing the fuel filter will push air back up the line. No issues even starting the system over completely dry. You see... Tap point, brass elbow, needle valve, ISSPro snubber, PTC fitting, then 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line back to the sensor above which is the brass sensor. With the PTC fittings, you can release the air brake line from the fitting to purge air if needed. Push down the collar and it releases the air brake line. Push the tubing back in and it self-locks and seals.

Make sure to test for the AC noise level out of the alternator. Then you want to do the W-T ground wire mod. While you there you might do the PCM protection fuse too.

I had to back down for efficiency reasons. 15, 18, 21, 25, 27... I notice with this the smoke level changed and was reduced. Still tears the tires loose in 3rd and 4th gear getting on the I-84. Watch the smoke if the smoke is on the top end then you most likely getting too advanced. If the smoke is down low you might need to add more timing. Even with 5* at 50% is a pretty good pull of power too. Dips the timing on a pretty good amount of retard and the boost builds quick enough the tires break free. This gives you 2.5* of retard. @trreed settings give 3.75* of retard.

Boy, I remember those days long ago... Been there done that...

@hex0rz Did you do the W-T ground wire mod? Have you checked the alternator noise level?

As for me I got a fresh razor blade and scrapped all the junk off the deck of the block carefully. Using a Scotch-Brite pad to more or less buff out the rest of the deck. I could have gone this route as well or even with new head bolts. Knowing my game plan I opted to just get it done at that time and bite the bullet. Just don't forget about this weakness before you go upward on the Quadzilla and bigger injectors. It would really suck to do the head gasket then do it again because the bolts failed you. You're fine and safe with RV275's and Edge Comp with what you got.

You are welcome...

Be aware that some other devices could be passing power across circuits. What you going to have to do is pull all fuses then one at a time socket a fuse and see what the test light does. This will remove power from all other circuit and allow for full isolation of power per circuit so you can figure out the issue.

You could drive up on some blocks of wood or ramps and raise that side of the truck. Even a road ditch will work. A quick swap and be done.

I'm going to bet it still the switch is bad. Power should not be present at the light socket. Switch should be open with no power. I would ohm test across the pins of the switch.

Here is a starting point... https://www.amazon.com/Roadstar-Towing-Mirrors-Pickup-Folding/dp/B073ZBKRHH/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=2002+dodge+ram+fold+out+mirror&qid=1553996856&replacementKeywords=fold+out+mirror&s=gateway&sr=8-6&vehicle=2002-40-2760------------&vehicleName=2002+Dodge+Ram+1500

Not required. Air has zero impact. The pulses from the VP44 are beating the sensor to death. In the old days, we used the needle valve for adjustable dampening. Back then the needle valve was mere $18 buck from NAPA but now gone way up in price. This why I suggest the snubbers now because technology has improved quite a bit since then.

The switch on the transmission is bad.

That's why it failed. The pulses beat the sensor to death. You need at least a snubber. I kept the needle valve just in case there was a plumbing leak and I could close out that part of the system and continue driving.

I've done enough paint and body in my days. I can still do it but I'm for sure rusty.

Yes, that was made from the passenger side wire. I reused everything and no issues. Bigger cable isn't needed for the stock alternator.

Need more distance. Farther the better. Are you using a snubber or needle valve? If you using a needle valve you need to add a snubber. Most electric gauges have electronics to dampen the needle movement. Snubbers seem to do very well with electric gauges just make sure to buy a quality snubber like an ISSPro or Autometer that is a sintered metal snubber. The order you want is... Tap point -> Needle valve -> Snubber -> 5 foot or more of 1/8 air brake line -> sensor

Pop pressure of Injectors When you look at a 24V Cummins fuel injector and look at how it's designed and how it functions. The injector pintle is held shut by spring pressure. For stock injector, you need 310 bar (4,500 PSI) to make the injector open and release fuel into the cylinder. Now the bottom limit is 293 bar (4,250 PSI) below this point the automation gets poor and there is more smoke because the fuel can't be heated enough to get vapor to go BANG! As injectors start getting lower pop pressure they do flow more fuel but the droplets start getting larger. This typically creates more black smoke as well as increased fuel flow. Net problem is daily drivers end up suffering from lower MPG's from poor spray pattern or too large of droplets. How to detect low pop pressure Low pop pressure can be detected by engine load and RPM. You'll need a live data tool like an OBDLink LX or similar. Now at idle the engine load typically is in the 5% to 10% range for most injectors to hold an idle at 800 RPM's. It going to dance up and down in engine load at idle this is normal the ECM is constant commanding different values of fuel to hold the RPM as steady as possible. When pop pressure falls too low the idle RPM starts to rise. This is due to the fact it takes less pressure to lift the pintle with low pop pressure so the injection event starts a bit early and ends later. This means there is more duration of time the injector is open which will increased fuel flow at an idle state. The engine will attempt to hold the RPM at 800 RPM but when the engine load gets below about 5% it can no longer defuel anymore. The result is that the idle RPM's rise. If you seeing your hot engine idle RPM in neutral (or park) is rising above 800 RPM and never drops to 800 RPM then your injector pop pressure is most like gone too low. Why did I write this article? I see it time and time again where people make the comment of having injectors that are 100k miles and more. Claiming the engine is still running good and no issues. This is not true. Injectors will degrade over mileage. Like my stock OEM injectors worked great even with 150k miles. MPG was little off but ran great. Sent my stock injectors to Diesel Auto Power and had them tested on average they were 260 bar (3,770 PSI) over 30 bar below the minimum requirement. Even though the injectors ran fine they were worn out. Do not assume just because injectors still idle and run fine that there is nothing wrong. Pop testing I highly suggest pop testing your injectors every 100k miles I'm going to bet that 90% of them will not make the bottom limit of 293 bar. Most would rather opt for just replacing the injectors with new ones. Pop Pressures Be aware most custom built injectors are popped lower in the 300 to 305 bar range to enhance the flow of fuel. This also means the injector life span will be shortened as its only 7 to 12 bar left before it starts dropping below the minimum 293 bar range. Some members have come forward and alerted me that in a mere 28k miles have lost up to 20 bar as injectors settle and break in. This where you can monitor your engine load and idle RPM and see if the injectors and dropping out too low. Enhanced Pop pressures (Experimental) Some of the members here have made the choice of going up on pop pressures. This will enhance the atomization of the injector and increase MPG for most cases. The downside does reduce the flow rate of the injector being that the pintle lifts open later and drops close early. The flow is shortened but the spray atomization is much improved even for larger injectors. As for how much to increase the pop pressure is not known as of yet. I can say that some members have experimented with higher pop pressures above 330 bar and cold starting in cold climates was nearly impossible or not at all. The upper limit from the Dodge FSM states 327 bar. Injector Data and Pop Pressures I welcome other members data to compile a list of injectors, pop pressures, and manufacture data so we can get a better grasp of what works well. 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar Diesel Auto Power Injectors - So far with winter temperatures down to near zero I've not had any issues with starting. Engine load was about 13% when the injectors were new. View full Cummins article

Naw... Not as good as my 100w watt bulbs on the axle. I will upgrade them but I'm going to add floodlights in LED to the axle. Much better than the stock back up lights that doesn't work really.

@JAG1 where does this bolt go? Clank....

After 24 hours of being home, I feel so much better. I've gotten rest and a bit more time to heal. Pain level is nice and low yet. I've got an appointment to have the tube removed from my back on Wednesday then I'll be able to wear my blue jeans again and walk normal again. More or less my biggest thing is keeping hydrated and keep flushing my kidneys and bladder good so no infection starts. Even though most are shocked at the amount of driving I do for MoparMom just getting up this morning and expecting that was relaxing in its self getting back to the normal routine.