Mopar1973Man

Thank you. Yeah it looks like water got into the grease and rust started to form. Interesting to see the internal part of the bearing.

Ok, update after running to Lewiston Idaho and back home for a monthly shopping trip. I was shocked. It improved the driving response and the MPG is improved. Slight bonus my engine seems quieter running now. EGTs on average are down 50 to 75°F off the average. IAT temperatures are at their worst at +10°F compared to the 190°F thermostat which with cold weather at least stays above 70*F and could top out at about 100*F. I'm going to have to log my MPG and see where this might go. Coolant ranged about 203 to 210°F. Engine oil temperature rose at the worst to 175°F. All in all it was nice to see 125 mile only burning just slightly less than an 1/8 of a tank.

@Doubletrouble called me the other night about this and I was going over the 1st gear popping out in my head and I knew it was like main shaft bearings because it would do it in most gears depending on direction. I was thinking about it and the only thing I could say to @Doubletrouble something was flipped, something came loose like a snap ring but even after thinking of the direction of movement the snap ring idea would have failed. I'm glad he got it figured out and it fixable but man I know it sucks to pull the entire mess down again and just flip a shift collar.

I want to see it roll someday. Video is required.

OMG! Come on now @Doubletrouble you put that nasty dirty lid back on? The rest of it looks awesome... Really clean assembly inside and looks great. I'll send you my transmission for you to rebuild.

So I've been playing around with theories. I'm going where most people won't go for economic performance. What have I done this time... Pulled the 190*F thermostat and replaced it with a 200*F thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins. Then install my wintertime grill cover. What happened... Do keep in mind that this is barely just 24 hours after doing this. As for coolant temperatures I'm now up around 203 to 207*F coolant temperatures which now made the IAT rise in temperature floating 90* to 100*F being that 80% of the intercooler is blocked from the direct cold wind and also the manifold is warmer being the coolant jacket run the manifold. I did notice a slight reduction in engine load and EGTs. Engine oil temperature rose slightly from 165*F to 172*F still well below coolant temperature. After studying the air temperature around here winter time can drop into minus temperatures rather quickly and some winters last for weeks. Cold air does affect performance and degrades for daily drivers. My theory is to jump the temperature of the block up to aid in the ignition quality of the fuel and keep the IAT warmer. Even double-check my cruise timing to verify that it's not over-advanced in timing. Be aware future runs and screenshots might have -40*F displayed for the coolant being the Cummins ECM cannot process a temperature above 204*F so at 205*F it flips to -40*F displayed. This is due to the software of the Cummins ECM that starts counting at -40*F and then at 204*F in hexadecimal the value would be 00 to FF. Which is 255 decimal units. Why does the dash show correct? Because the CCD network can count even higher and not bound to the Cummins limitation of software. As for thermal dynamics basically, the rule states that hot is attracted to cold, and cold is attracted to hot things. If you make the coolant jacket hotter there is less heat being dumped into a colder coolant jacket. This puts more energy into the driving wheels. Being the IAT temperature is up more promotes better ignition quality for the fuel which is already high cetane here in Idaho. As you can see my EGT's are still rather low side and engine load is reduced. But ECO yup is a bit higher now. I'm going to continue on this path to see how far the rabbit hole goes... NOTE: Transmission Temperature is not that... Transmission Temperature is Engine Oil Temperature measured on top of the oil filter housing. The weather here is roughly 20 to 30*F during this run.

I'd love to see the bearings could you post a picture?

Today...

Should be able to press it apart being it was manufactured and assembled.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT85SuHHq/ That is my latest video outside... https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT85S9746/ https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT85SToUT/ Latest job I just completed...

Right now the ChatGPT 3.5 I've got is trained with much less information and does create some errors in math and math formulas I found out. The funny part is Elon Musk was part of the start-up of ChatGPT but no longer has any control over the software. Then who owns ChatGPT... Differences between 3.5 and 4.0 ChatGPT

Well I was surfing Tiktok this morning and ran across someone playing with ChatGPT and wondered what talking to a AI app on your phone would be like. I downloaded and fired up ChatGPT. Grabbed my earbuds and had a chat with AI. I was playing around trying different questions. Well look for yourself. Then I continued my chat about economy tuning which got interesting ask about thermodynamics and efficiency of the Cummins engine which gave me some tuning clues I'm going to try this winter. See how far I can continue to push out the MPG numbers. Here is another question I asked that agrees with what I already knew but again gotta educate the masses.

Just thinking of it more... It would have to be for your year of truck being map sensor plugs are different. Then there are a few other setups where the pins are swapped around.

Sadly I can say I font have any wiring harnesses. I've got a guy in Council ID I could try today when the later this morning and see.

There is @Auto Computer Specialist they can repair that wiring harness possibly. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/auto-computer-specialist-r5/

There is a guy I helped build a VP44 pump on fuel only that past 1000 hp. I'll see if I can hook you up with him and he can help you make serious fuel only power. He's got the list of parts and has to be done to get 1000 hp on fuel only.

Well I'm on the road today it's snowing and cold. My engine oil temperature started to rise to 190°F which I know is a sign over advancement of timing. I pulled over and subtracted 2 degrees off the cruise timing in a few miles the engine oil temperature dropped 30 degrees back to the 160 realm again. I know some of you got my economy tune you might want to check cruise timing to bring the oil temperature back in line.

Sadly the pulse isn't checked really only if there is connection. So if you unplugged the sensor and key on it should throw a code.

Make sure to inspect the shaft closely where the seal would ride.

The magnet in the sensor degrades as the magnet is heated and cooled then the signal pulses get weaker. The coil is still good so the PCM will not throw a code because of connection. Kind of the same with crank sensors in the early 2nd gen 24Vs.

There could have been debris in the bottom of the gearbox that when the shaft moved the debris damaged the seal as one idea. Could have been the gear started binding some and distorted the seal. Bearing could be worn. The shaft might have a pit or defect in the shaft as it slide down exposed a leak.

Be careful. Don't let the hot air blow against the nose of the temp gun it will skew the reading make sure you shooting at 45-degree angle out of the air stream. The heated air can warm the plastics making the number skewed higher. Yes, I know this flaw because in the summer I can stuff the nose of the temp gun in the vent and see 15 to 20 vent temperature but a normal HVAC thermometer will show actual at 34 to 36 degrees.

The lower bearing most likely is worn out if it's leaking from the output shaft. There are two seals in that hole. One is a dust seal and the other is a hydraulic seal. Sadly it might be the output shaft has been binding being you didn't gain the slack back and might be binding in the center/straight position. This why I always make sure there are at least 1.5 turns back from the bottom. You might have to pull the box and get a seal kit at worst. Steering boxes are extremely easy to rebuild yourself and can save a ton of money not going to a blue top or redhead. If you remove the box pull the two hydraulic lines and the input (steering shaft) and output (pitman arm). You'll be able to open the steering box at the sector adjust. Then unscrew it off the output shaft. Slide the shaft out and you can order a new output bearing and seal kit. Just be sure to check the shaft for wear.

That's been cracked for quite a while. The thin bright spot is the last metal to fail. There is considerable rust in the face of the rest of the tapered stud. Kind of like how the mainshaft in my transmission failed. Just bad metal had a weakness when the part was made.

Interesting. I've not seen CAT TDTO fluids around here but I guess I should look around.