Mopar1973Man

There is a guy I helped build a VP44 pump on fuel only that past 1000 hp. I'll see if I can hook you up with him and he can help you make serious fuel only power. He's got the list of parts and has to be done to get 1000 hp on fuel only.

Well I'm on the road today it's snowing and cold. My engine oil temperature started to rise to 190°F which I know is a sign over advancement of timing. I pulled over and subtracted 2 degrees off the cruise timing in a few miles the engine oil temperature dropped 30 degrees back to the 160 realm again. I know some of you got my economy tune you might want to check cruise timing to bring the oil temperature back in line.

Sadly the pulse isn't checked really only if there is connection. So if you unplugged the sensor and key on it should throw a code.

Make sure to inspect the shaft closely where the seal would ride.

The magnet in the sensor degrades as the magnet is heated and cooled then the signal pulses get weaker. The coil is still good so the PCM will not throw a code because of connection. Kind of the same with crank sensors in the early 2nd gen 24Vs.

There could have been debris in the bottom of the gearbox that when the shaft moved the debris damaged the seal as one idea. Could have been the gear started binding some and distorted the seal. Bearing could be worn. The shaft might have a pit or defect in the shaft as it slide down exposed a leak.

Be careful. Don't let the hot air blow against the nose of the temp gun it will skew the reading make sure you shooting at 45-degree angle out of the air stream. The heated air can warm the plastics making the number skewed higher. Yes, I know this flaw because in the summer I can stuff the nose of the temp gun in the vent and see 15 to 20 vent temperature but a normal HVAC thermometer will show actual at 34 to 36 degrees.

The lower bearing most likely is worn out if it's leaking from the output shaft. There are two seals in that hole. One is a dust seal and the other is a hydraulic seal. Sadly it might be the output shaft has been binding being you didn't gain the slack back and might be binding in the center/straight position. This why I always make sure there are at least 1.5 turns back from the bottom. You might have to pull the box and get a seal kit at worst. Steering boxes are extremely easy to rebuild yourself and can save a ton of money not going to a blue top or redhead. If you remove the box pull the two hydraulic lines and the input (steering shaft) and output (pitman arm). You'll be able to open the steering box at the sector adjust. Then unscrew it off the output shaft. Slide the shaft out and you can order a new output bearing and seal kit. Just be sure to check the shaft for wear.

That's been cracked for quite a while. The thin bright spot is the last metal to fail. There is considerable rust in the face of the rest of the tapered stud. Kind of like how the mainshaft in my transmission failed. Just bad metal had a weakness when the part was made.

Interesting. I've not seen CAT TDTO fluids around here but I guess I should look around.

At least for the 50 weight I'm running I've noticed the Mobil 50 darkens way quicker than the Valvoline 50 weight I'm using right now. Seriously though I think people are holding tight to the thin lubes like the 75w-85 on the 5-speed and PennzOil Syncromesh which is TOO THIN to make the GL-4 grade. Then when you are adding horsepower you need to thicken the lubes in the axles and transmission to prevent damage to the hard facing of the gears.

Come on squeeze the last little bit out of it and get another 10 more degrees. I'm at roughly 160 out of the center vents. But yes I tend to agree with @Tractorman I think you won that battle.

Very impressive job so far. PLEASE @Doubletrouble make sure you do a write-up for this I'm sure there are other NV4500 users who want to know how to do the rebuild and where you ordered your parts.

Color means nothing. Being coolant could look fresh out of the bottle and have a pH of less than 5.0 and oxidized metals that settled in the bottom of the block. Now on high Rev operation those solids could be pushed into the core tubes of the heater core and radiator. Then the only way to clean this up is rodding out the heater core and radiator. This is even possible with distilled water being used.

PSG on the VP44 is shot. Most likely AC noise issues.

LOL. Others got hit that evening. @IBMobile @IBMOBILE-JEN @Doubletrouble @MUDDY and few others not part of the website. As for today, I've got to get the last 2 injectors out of the head throw in my old core set here which are better than I pulled out and see if the exhaust gases stop in the fuel tank. This will verify the head isn't cracked at all.

Had a very quiet day at home. Then a friend down the road brought both Mark and me got dinner from their family. Thanks go out to Andrew and Taz for dinner last night wonderful eats!

So I just figured out that I'm going to do a quick test of the head by trading out these injectors for a set of old core injectors I've got here to just see if the compression gases come back to the fuel tank being these haven't been abused or carboned up like the set that came out. I'll keep you all posted. Today is Thanksgiving Today I'm just posting thoughts and now going to be lazy for the day. Watch out some of you might get a phone call from me.

Just kicking around for T day. Being lazy. Happy T day to you all.

After getting the valve cover off and pulled the 8mm bolts holding injectors those bolts were loose. Then took a lot of force to pull number one out. The injector was carboned in place. No copper washer. I've got a fight with 5 and 6 yet to pull out of the head. The truck came in with a complaint of pressure in the fuel tank and spitting fuel out the filler neck. Mark just found the copper washer buried in the carbon build up. Managed dig out.

The output speed sensor could be it then being the speed sensor could cause the transmission to downshift randomly way lower than it should because it thinks the speed is much lower.

Never seen any diode in the electrical of any Dodge as of yet. But even then that would only affect the electrical of a device but will not have any effect on the coolant flow or heat production of the HVAC system. Be aware the only way to clean a heater core completely requires the removal of the heater core and opening of the tank heads running a stainless steel rod through all the core tubes and soldering closed again. Yes, I've done this in the past with old brass heater cores but with aluminum cores, you are not going to be able to do this trick like I did in the 70's and 80's.

Most people get a remote mount filter base and use a good 3 micron filter and then like a 100 micron prefilter before the Raptor. The problem with the Raptor is there is no return line back to the tank so the pressure regulator will tend to cavitate some being it recirculates the fuel back to the inlet side of the pump. So basically you need to find what spin-on filter you wish to use and get the proper base for those filters. The easiest way would be to have a full AirDog 150 or 165 then the filter problem is resolved. The full AirDog with the return line will route the air and foam away from the fuel system and then allow for polishing of the fuel since a majority is returned to the tank being it's cycled multiple passes then it will pick up more debris on every pass. I'm also running the factory fuel filter too. I've got a 7 micron NAPA filter in the stock can and 3 micron on the AirDog. The best part is I change fuel filters every 60k to 70k miles. The fuel is not being drawn from the sender basket and from the main pool of fuel which is a much cooler fuel temperature and doesn't create asphaltenes which typically occur around 140 to 150*F fuel temperatures.

First off welcome to the family. Then the next thing I'm going to suggest is to do the W-T ground wire mod. This should fix the erratic shift and whatnot. Make sure to remove any noise filters and any weird ground wires added they will not be needed. The only other thing to look at possibly replacing is the output speed sensor typically in the tail shaft of the transmission.

Well, I guess you are going to be doing a full inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends. Highly suggested. As for start up issues. Check the injector o-rings, crossover o-rings, return tee in the back of the engine or any weeping injector lines.