Mopar1973Man

I know from the 24V crowd a good engine is between 400-425 PSI but 24V engines are lower in compression than all others.

Needed to add a space between on the last post so...:shifty: won't work but ... will.

hmm... I still see it...

Power steering is power steering fluid not ATF. That didn't change till 2003 when ATF+4 was using in the power steering. Power steering system should be flushed every 30k miles. Typically close to 3-4 quarts to flush an entire steering and hydro boost system. Petroleum fluid suggested because this system is without a filter and regular fluid flushing should be done to prevent debris build up. Transfer case can be either ATF+3 or ATF+4 (Onwers Manual). I've been running ATF+3 and still no issues. Transfer case should be changed every 30k miles. Engine Oil any petroleum oil that meets CI-4 or better at 15w-40 for most normal use. Synthetic is optional and not required. Normal interval is 7,500 miles for oil and filter change by the book. Coolant green (factory filled), yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Typically use yellow universal that way if there is a emergency add needed either orange or green can be used as well. There is no listed mileage or change interval be I highly suggest that before the period of service life of the coolant. My last change was at 70k on 100k the coolant was darkening. Transmission fluid (auto) should be ATF+4 on 47RE transmission with service interval of 30k miles with band adjustments. Manual Transmission (NV4500 & NV5600) are Mopar Synthetics (two different fluids). No interval of change but highly suggest fluids be changed every 100k miles. On the NV5600 it's suggested to overfill by one quart because of bearing issues. Brake fluid is DOT3 and should be flushed out every 30k miles. Differentials front and rear. Petroleum 85w-90 GL5 Gear lubricant. Service interval is every 30k miles. Synthetics optional are not required. Windshield fluid any thing cheap. Out here in Idaho it don't take long to pump a gallon on the windshield. univerisal Door hinges, hood hinges, and all latches should be lubricated with engine oil. Batteries should be topped off with distilled water and equalize charge place on the batteries. This can't be done on AGM or sealed batteries. NOTE: You will notice I did not list any brand names because it not about brand names its about the specification of the fluid or material. As long as the fluid or material meet and exceed the requirement then it may be used.

LOL... Oh like I intentionally threw a hose clamp in the BHAF and put it back on... Right....

No. Because I don't break things typically. Lets say I've removed transmissions and transfers cases typically for doing clutches.

Basically P0500 code is from the fact off rear tire spins. The ABS has a hard time dealing with front half creeping out say 20 MPH and the rear is spinning faster. ABS can understand it so POOF P0500.

Exactly. I'm a bit different I've got one of both. 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 5.9L Auto 46RE then got the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins 5 Speed NV4500. Like right now I'm going to have my rear driveshaft rebuilt soon. Carrier bearing is wore and Just going to pony up and get the entire shaft new u-joints, carrier bearing, and then spun balance. So till then I'll be driving the 1996 Dodge. It like driving a whole new truck again. Going from diesel power to high revving gasoline power.

If so... Then where is your write up on rebuilding transfer cases?

Check the hub for clips on the studs holding the rotor in place. You might have to get behind and back off the parking brake shoes turn the star wheel towards the axle is loosen away from the axle is tightening. Last possible is nature's thread locker. You might have to spray the hub with PB blaster and smack the rotor with a rubber hammer to see about getting it to move.

I'm using 3 different scan tools... ScanGauge II, OBDLink LX, and Innova 31603. As for the ScanGauge II the quality point is the trip gauge is fairly accurate. As for the OBDLink LX its really good at reading all the live data in one screen and then showing the error codes with a fairly good definition. Still best to come here and check the OBDII codes. As for the Innova is a bit pricey but covers the ABS and SRS error codes on vehicles but doesn't cover 98.5 to 02... It starts in 03.

I was having wishful thinking that the weather would stay warmer. It is during the day but the night times are getting cold again. Thankfully it not that big of a issue. I've got a blow out plug back up to the shop, drain the water tank, blow the lines out, park for storage. The little 96 Dodge is great for this job but sure makes it squat.

Sad but true I would heed their advise. I would either do a compression test or use a bore scope and look into the cylinders. CR engines are known to do damage rather easy.

XL would be the the one I would take... Being I know the local cetane levels are already high. As for performance wise we are night and day difference. Much stronger pulling in 4th gear enough to break the tire lose on grades. Smoke free running. I do have a small puff of oil smoke on first start valve seal are getting sloppy. Other than that typically low to mid 20's MPG. Very little soot or smoke. Fuel system wise the only thing I changed was the +50 injectors. Still I won't knock the score that Opti-lube does have very impressive. Now if it was sold locally I would be more apt to purchasing it.

Hence why the production of the MPG fooler because of the excessive high timing advancement that degrades MPG and efficiency. At least for the 24V optimal is 100-140*F for intake manifold. You can read the outside air temp with IAT really easy just minus 40*F from the IAT and you'll look right at outside air temp on average. The only time that value shift to minus 50 is below about +32*F typically I'm running a winter front as well. Still very predictable value.

I was looking at the weather report and got to drain and blow out the RV. Night time temperature are going to fall into the 20's again. so here I am draining everything out again...

Love the shutter idea that is neat!

Only for those few minutes of startup. After the cylinder temperature and coolant rises to operational temperature the environment is no different than summer weather. Cylinder temps are the same because of coolant being at 190-195*F. Just the incoming air is much colder which winter front typically aids in keeping the bitter cold out. The only thing I can see that is need is a quality Pour point Depressant to keep the fuel from gelling up.

Cetane I look at from a different view angle.For folks that run a lot of interstates and high speed driving might gain slightly from high cetane fuels because it can burn fast enough for high RPM's. So for my self and typically much slower speeds I see better gain from lower cetane fuels. But remember if you in winterized fuels now and add Opti-lube on top you driving the cetane even higher. So from summer stand point might be optimal but from a winter stand point might not be. As for HFRR score Opti-lube does have the highest rating. Like if you look up the Worlds Largest Diesel Engine it has a redline of about 120 RPM's but produces 100,000 plus HP. The fuel it uses is like liquid tar. The cetane is extreme is extremely low but the BTU's are extremely high with a very slow RPM rate. Just food for though...

Man, you don't seem to be having much luck at all from chasing oil leaks to now exhaust leaks. On a cold engine this will only work for short time you can mix a heavy batch of soap and water in a spray bottle. Start the engine and spray down all the joints looking for your leaks. Once the manifold gets hot the soap won't work. But it will give you a minute or two of idle time looking for leak possibly.

First off do not stick anything in the nipple of the crankcase vent to gain leverage. It will cause damage and break the nipple. Second it's a standard thread item so twist it counter-clockwise to remove. The rubber seal is what holding it tight. Use both hands and rag to gain some grip.

If you read on the Opti-lube they at least provide a HFRR score test compared to all other products... http://opti-lube.com/downloads/intertektesting.pdf That there is a sign of lower BTU content... As cetane go up BTU's go down. Like I know already Chevron fuel locally is rated at 45 cetane so adding Opti-lube will reduce your HFRR score which is good but also would lower BTU's of the fuel which is bad. So when cetane is raised typically BTU's are lost. Sample of ASTM testing labs cetane scale. (Cennex Fuels) So that's the difference between Opti-lube an 2 cycle oil. It the cetane. 2 Cycle Oil is a natural cetane reducer where Opti-lube is a cetane booster.

Not out west here. But several have reported "low sulfur" fuel available in the back east. I'm only typically in Idaho, Oregon (Biodisesel). I'm not a long distance traveler. Let say I've never been east Minnesota and that was over 20 years ago since I was in MN.

The ultimate way is to do a compression test. Then you know exactly the health of each cylinder. Then there is the blow by manometer which will tell you the summation of all blow by and might not detect a bad cylinder. The tea kettle is the simple test. Then just looking to see if it blowing oil. Those are the methods I know...

Basically in a nutshell as long as the blow by isn't bad enough to blow the cap off the valve cover and it's not ejecting oil out the breather tube then just keep on driving. Enjoy!