Mopar1973Man

6.7L Ram Cummins EGR Delete Disclaimer This article is written for offroad use and/or track racing. EGR deletes are illegal for highway use in the US. EGR Delete The first step you'll have to do is disconnect the battery grounds and drain the coolant from the radiator. You only need to drain about 1/2 the coolant out since you are only working on the top part of the engine. Batteries being disconnected just ensures safety and nothing being shorted out. You want to remove the plastic decorative engine cover. There are four 10mm head bolts holding the cover on. Make sure to pull the engine oil dipstick out before removal. Now on the front of the engine, you want to remove the cross over EGR tube. There are 2 V-band clamps holding the tube. Also, there is one 10mm head bolt tucked up under the tube bolted to the front of the head. Now unhook the plug on the EGR valve. This requires using a screwdriver and pulling the red tab outwards to unlock the pull then squeeze the tab as usual to unplug. Unbolt the EGR valve from the intake horn. There are 10mm head bolts mounting it to the intake horn. This point you want to clean any old gasket material and excessive carbon up. I used a shop vacuum to pull a vacuum near the port and loosen the carbon up with my finger. As for the gasket, the same was hold the shop vacuum near the port as you scrap the old material off. While at the intake horn the throttle valve is just below the EGR valve. Make sure to unplug the throttle valve and leave it unplugged. You could install a throttle valve delete as well to improve performance but not required! Now install the block off plate to the intake horn. I used the Sinister EGR delete kit. On the back side of the plate is a groove for the o-ring. Just careful press the o-rings into place with your fingers. The groove is tight enough to hold the o-ring for you. Here is where things get a bit more fun. EGR bypass on the passenger side has a set of heat shields. you have to remove them. There are two 8mm head bolts and three 10mm nuts. ew of them are kind of hidden so make sure you find them all. After the heat shield is removed out of the way. Now you can remove the four 10mm bolts holding the exhaust bypass in place. Don't remove at this point leave in place. Just remove the bolts. Now unbolt the stepper motor. It mounted in place with four 10mm head bolts. Leave it in place for right now. Make sure to unplug any electrical on the servo. Now you can remove the bypass valve and the stepper motor together as a unit. Now you have to make a bit of room for the EGR cooler removal. Remove the crankcase vent hose. Also, while your right there remove the two coolant hoses running over the EGR cooler. Now unbolt the two 15mm head bolts mounting the EGR cooler to the manifold. This is a pain in the tail end. The 2 nuts are at the rear of the EGR cooler which are rather difficult to access and see. Take your time. Make sure to fish both nuts before lifting the cooler off. Really would suck to drop a nut into the exhaust manifold and ruin a turbo. Remove the V-band clamp from the exhaust cross over elbow and the EGR cooler. Now you can lift the EGR cooler out. There is a stud that the rear of the cooler mount on. This makes rather difficult and tight quarters lifting the cooler up and attempt to slide out of the mounting bracket. Now the removal of the EGR cooler mounting. There are two 14mm head bolts running from the fender toward the head.They are below the edge of the mounting. Now you can install the block off plates for the exhaust manifold. One plate will have a plug in the center. This one goes to the rear of the manifold. The other block off plate without the port is installed in the front port of the exhaust. You'll be reusing the exhaust gaskets from the old hardware. Now you can reinstall the crankcase vent hose. Using the new coolant hose from the Sinister EGR Delete Kit now connect the two coolant port that went to the EGR cooler. Now in the kit, there is a metal bracket provided to attach the transmission dipstick and coolant tube. The bracket is bolted to the head using the old hardware and its location is directly behind the coolant port on the head. Attach your dipstick tube and coolant tube to this bracket. Refill with coolant. Make sure to open the air bleed port on the coolant line. Check for leaks! (Optional) Install the plastic engine cover. You'll find it rather floppy and not worth installing.

DTC 63 - PCM Failure SRI Miles Not Stored & PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied - Test FC-14A Turn ignition on. Using DRB-II, perform SRI memory test. If DRB-II displays WRITE FAILURE, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II displays WRITE REFUSED, go to step 2). If DRB-II displays SRI MILEAGE INVALID, update mileage and retest SRI memory. Perform TEST VER-1. If none of these messages are displayed, compare SRI mileage stored with mileage on odometer. If mileage is same between SRI memory and odometer, retest SRI memory. If mileage differs, update SRI mileage and retest SRI memory. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II displayed WRITE REFUSED, PCM was busy. Using DRB-II, perform SRI memory test. Retest SRI memory 2 more times if necessary. If WRITE REFUSED fault returned, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If WRITE REFUSED fault did not return, test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 62 - PCM Failure SRI Miles Not Stored & PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied - Test FC-14A Turn ignition on. Using DRB-II, perform SRI memory test. If DRB-II displays WRITE FAILURE, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II displays WRITE REFUSED, go to step 2). If DRB-II displays SRI MILEAGE INVALID, update mileage and retest SRI memory. Perform TEST VER-1. If none of these messages are displayed, compare SRI mileage stored with mileage on odometer. If mileage is same between SRI memory and odometer, retest SRI memory. If mileage differs, update SRI mileage and retest SRI memory. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II displayed WRITE REFUSED, PCM was busy. Using DRB-II, perform SRI memory test. Retest SRI memory 2 more times if necessary. If WRITE REFUSED fault returned, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If WRITE REFUSED fault did not return, test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 45 - Transmission Overdrive Solenoid Circuit - Test FC-10A Using DRB-II, erase fault codes and actuate overdrive solenoid.Wait 10 seconds. Using DRB-II, read codes. If overdrive solenoid control circuit fault returns, go to step 3). If overdrive solenoid control circuit fault does not return, wiggle wiring harness between transmission connector and PCM with actuator test still running. Using DRB-II, read faults. If overdrive solenoid control circuit fault returns, go to step 3). If overdrive solenoid control circuit fault does not return, fault is not present at this time. TRANS OVERDRIVE SOLENOID CIRCUIT fault is set if solenoid control wire is not in its proper state when monitored by PCM (i.e., circuit voltage is low when solenoid should be off or high when solenoid should be on). Possible causes are open or shorted overdrive control circuit wire, open or shorted overdrive solenoid coil, and open 12-volt feed to overdrive solenoid. See INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Disconnect overdrive solenoid connector on transmission. Using DRB-II in voltmeter mode, probe overdrive solenoid connector, ignition feed circuit (Dark Blue wire). If reading is 10 volts or less, repair open Dark Blue wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is more than 10 volts, turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connector. Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, probe PCM connector terminal No. 55, overdrive solenoid control circuit (Orange/Light Green wire). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Orange/Light Green wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, check resistance of overdrive solenoid control circuit (Orange/Light Green wire) using an external ohmmeter. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open Orange/Light Green wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, reconnect overdrive solenoid connector. Turn ignition on. Using DRB-II in voltmeter mode, probe PCM connector terminal No. 55, overdrive solenoid control circuit (Orange/Light Green wire). If reading is more than 10 volts, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is 10 volts or less, replace overdrive solenoid in transmission. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 42 - No Auto Shutdown Relay Voltage Sense At PCM - Test FC-13A If AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT fault is also present, perform TEST FC-12A. If AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT fault is not present, erase fault codes using DRB-II. Start engine. Read fault codes. If NO ASD RELAY VOLT SENSE AT PCM fault did not return, conditions required to set fault are not present at this time. Perform TEST VER-1. If NO ASD RELAY VOLT SENSE AT PCM fault returned, erase fault codes. Replace ASD relay with a known good relay. Start engine and read fault codes. If NO ASD RELAY VOLT SENSE AT PCM did not return, replace original ASD relay. Perform TEST VER-1. If NO ASD RELAY VOLT SENSE AT PCM fault returned, turn ignition off. Disconnect ASD relay. Using DRB-II in voltmeter mode, probe ASD relay connector terminal "B", battery voltage circuit (Red wire). If reading is 12 volts or less, repair Red wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is more than 12 volts, turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM. Using an external ohmmeter, measure resistance of ASD relay output circuit (Dark Green/Orange wire) between PCM connector terminal No. 57 and ASD relay connector terminal "D". If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open Dark Green/Orange wire. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 42 - Auto Shutdown Relay Control Circuit - Test FC-12A Using DRB-II, erase fault codes and actuate ASD relay. ASD relay only supplies battery voltage to alternator field. If relay is not clicking, go to step 3). If relay is clicking, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT fault sets if ASD and fuel pump relay control circuit is not in its proper state when monitored by PCM during cranking. Possible causes are open or short in ASD and fuel pump relay control circuit, open or short in control circuit wire, open or shorted ignition power feed to relays, and failed control circuit driver in PCM. Inspect wiring and connectors. Repair harness or connector as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, wiggle harness between PCM and relay. Ensure actuator test is still running. Using DRB-II, read faults. If AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT fault resets, repair harness or connector where problem occurred. Perform TEST VER-1. If fault did not reset, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Remove ASD relay. substitute another relay. If substitute relay clicks, replace original ASD relay. Perform TEST VER-1. If substitute relay does not click, remove substitute relay. Using DRB-II in voltmeter mode, probe ASD relay connector terminal "A", 12-volt ignition feed circuit (Dark Blue wire). If reading is 10 volts or less, repair open Dark Blue wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is more than 10 volts, disconnect PCM. Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, probe ASD relay connector terminal "C", control circuit (Dark Blue/Yellow wire). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is 5 ohms or more, check resistance of ASD relay connector control circuit (Dark Blue/Yellow wire) between PCM terminal No. 51 and ASD relay terminal "C" using an external ohmmeter. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open Dark Blue/Yellow wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 33 - A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit - Test FC-9A Using DRB-II, erase fault codes and actuate A/C clutch relay. If A/C clutch relay is not clicking, go to step 4). If A/C clutch relay is clicking, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. A/C CLUTCH RELAY CIRCUIT fault sets if relay control circuit at PCM connector terminal No. 34 does not reflect proper state. Possible causes are relay coil open or shorted, control circuit open or shorted, ignition power feed circuit to relay coil open or shorted, and failed control driver in PCM. Inspect wiring and connectors. Repair harness or connector as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, start actuator test using DRB-II. Wiggle harness between A/C clutch relay and PCM. Using DRB-II, read faults. If A/C CLUTCH RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT fault resets, repair connector or harness where wiggling caused fault to reset. Perform TEST VER-1. If A/C CLUTCH RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT fault does not reset, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Remove A/C clutch relay and substitute a known good relay. If substitute relay is clicking, replace original relay. Perform TEST VER-1. If substitute relay is not clicking, remove substitute relay. Using DRB-II in voltmeter mode, probe A/C clutch relay connector terminal "A", ignition feed circuit (Dark Blue wire). If reading is 10 volts or less, repair open ignition feed circuit to low speed fan control relay. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is more than 10 volts, turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM. Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, probe A/C clutch relay connector terminal "C", relay control circuit (Dark Blue/Orange wire). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Dark Blue/Orange wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, check resistance of A/C clutch relay connector, relay control circuit (Dark Blue/Orange wire) using an external ohmmeter. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open Dark Blue/Orange wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 24 - Throttle Position Sensor Voltage Low - TEST FC-6A Using DRB-II, read Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage. If TPS voltage is less than .2 volt, go to step 5). If TPS voltage is .2 volt or more, monitor TPS voltage on DRB-II while opening and closing throttle. If voltage change is not smooth, replace TPS. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage change is smooth, wiggle TPS connectors and harness while monitoring DRB-II. If voltage changed when harness and connectors were wiggled, repair harness or connector where wiggling caused voltage change. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage did not change when harness and connectors were wiggled, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR VOLTAGE LOW fault sets if TPS voltage at PCM terminal No. 22 becomes less than .2 volt or if vehicle speed is greater than 20 MPH, engine speed is greater than 1500 RPM, engine vacuum is less than 2 in. Hg and TPS voltage is less than .5 volt. Possible causes are sensor signal wire shorted to ground, loss of 5-volt supply and TPS sensor failure. Inspect all related wiring and connectors. Repair wiring and connectors as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Disconnect throttle position sensor. Using DRB-II, read TPS voltage. If TPS voltage is greater than one volt, replace throttle position sensor. Perform TEST VER-1. If TPS voltage is one volt or less, check for voltage at TPS connector, 5-volt supply circuit (Violet/White wire) using DRB-II in voltmeter mode. If voltage is 4 volts or less, repair open in Violet/White wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage is greater than 4 volts, turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Using an external ohmmeter, check resistance between throttle position sensor connector, signal circuit Orange/Dark Blue wire) and ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Orange/Dark Blue wire for a short to Black/Light Blue wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, check resistance of throttle position sensor, signal circuit (Orange/Dark Blue wire) using DRB-II. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Orange/Dark Blue wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 24 - Throttle Position Sensor Voltage High - TEST FC-5A Using DRB-II, read Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage. If TPS voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to step 4). If TPS voltage is 4.5 volts or less, monitor TPS voltage on DRB-II while opening and closing throttle. If voltage change is not smooth, replace TPS. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage change is smooth, wiggle TPS connectors and harness while monitoring DRB-II. If voltage changed when harness and connectors were wiggled, repair harness or connector where wiggling caused voltage change. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage did not change when harness and connectors were wiggled, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR VOLTAGE HIGH fault sets if TPS voltage becomes greater than 4.5 volts. Possible causes are sensor output wire open, sensor ground wire open and TPS sensor failure. Inspect all related wiring and connectors. Repair wiring and connectors as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Disconnect throttle position sensor. Connect a jumper wire between TPS connector terminal No. 2, signal circuit (Orange/Dark Blue wire) and ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). Using DRB-II, read TPS voltage. If DRB-II displays NO RESPONSE, repair Orange/Dark Blue wire for a short to Violet/White wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If TPS voltage is less than one volt, replace throttle position sensor. Perform TEST VER-1. If TPS voltage is one volt or more, move jumper wire from Orange/Dark Blue wire to a good engine ground. Using DRB-II, read TPS voltage. If voltage is less than one volt, repair open Black/Light Blue wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage is one volt or more, turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Using external ohmmeter, check resistance of throttle position sensor signal circuit (Orange/Dark Blue wire) between TPS connector terminal No. 2 and PCM connector terminal No. 22. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open Orange/Dark Blue wire. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 23 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage Low - TEST FC-4A Using DRB-II, read Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor voltage. If IAT sensor voltage is less than .5 volt, go to step 4). If voltage is .5 volt or more, wiggle IAT sensor harness while observing DRB-II display. If voltage changed while harness was wiggled, repair harness where wiggling caused change. Perform TEST VER-1. If wiggling harness did not cause a voltage change, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR VOLTAGE LOW fault sets if intake air temperature sensor circuit voltage drops to less than .5 volt. Possible causes are: sensor circuit shorted to ground or sensor shorted internally. Inspect all related wiring and connectors. Repair wiring and connectors as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Disconnect IAT sensor. Using DRB-II, read IAT sensor voltage. If IAT sensor voltage is greater than 4 volts, replace intake air temperature sensor. Perform TEST VER-1. If IAT sensor voltage is 4 volts or less, turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, probe IAT sensor signal circuit (Black/Red wire) at IAT sensor connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Black/Red wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 23 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High Test FC-3A Using DRB-II, read Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor voltage. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to step 4). If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, wiggle IAT sensor harness while observing DRB-II display. If voltage changed while harness was wiggled, repair harness where wiggling caused change. Perform TEST VER-1. If wiggling harness did not cause a voltage change, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR VOLTAGE HIGH fault sets if IAT sensor circuit voltage is greater than 4.5 volts. Possible causes are: sensor circuit open, sensor open internally or sensor ground wire open. Inspect all related wiring and connectors. Repair wiring and connectors as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Disconnect IAT sensor. Connect a jumper wire between IAT sensor connector terminals, signal circuit (Black/Red wire) and ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). Using DRB-II, read IAT sensor voltage. If voltage is less than one volt, replace IAT sensor. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage is one volt or more, move jumper wire from IAT sensor connector, ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire) to engine ground. Using DRB-II, read IAT sensor voltage. If voltage is less than one volt, repair open ground wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage is one volt or more, turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Using external ohmmeter, check resistance of IAT sensor signal circuit (Black/Red wire) between IAT sensor connector and PCM connector terminal No. 21. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open Black/Red wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 22 - ECT Sensor Voltage Too Low - TEST FC-8A Using DRB-II, read Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor voltage. If voltage is less than .5 volt, go to step 3). If voltage is .5 volt or more, wiggle CTS connectors and harness while monitoring DRB-II. If voltage changed when harness and connectors were wiggled, repair harness or connector where wiggling caused voltage change. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage did not change when harness and connectors were wiggled, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. ECT SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO LOW fault sets if coolant sensor circuit voltage at terminal No. 2 drops to less than .5 volt. Possible causes are sensor circuit shorted to ground and sensor shorted internally. Inspect wiring and connectors. Repair harness or connector as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Disconnect ECT connector. Using DRB-II, read coolant temperature sensor voltage. If reading is more than 4 volts, replace ECT. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is 4 volts or less, turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, probe ECT sensor connector, signal circuit (Tan/Black wire). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Tan/Black wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 22 - ECT Sensor Voltage Too High - TEST FC-7A Using DRB-II, read Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor voltage. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to step 3). If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, wiggle ECT sensor connectors and harness while monitoring DRB-II. If voltage changed when harness and connectors were wiggled, repair harness or connector where wiggling caused voltage change. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage did not change when harness and connectors were wiggled, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. ECT SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH fault sets if coolant sensor circuit voltage at terminal No. 2 goes to more than 4.9 volts. Possible causes are sensor circuit open, sensor open internally and sensor ground wire open. Inspect wiring and connectors. Repair harness or connector as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Disconnect ECT sensor connector. Connect jumper wire between ECT sensor connector, signal circuit (Tan/Black wire) and ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). Using DRB-II, read ECT sensor voltage. If reading is less than one volt, replace ECT. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is one volt or more, move jumper wire from ECT sensor connector, ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire) to engine ground. Using DRB-II, read ECT sensor voltage. If reading is less than one volt, repair open sensor ground wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is one volt or more, turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Using an external ohmmeter, check resistance of ECT sensor connector, signal circuit (Tan/Black wire). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open ECT sensor signal wire. Perform TEST VER-1

DTC 15 - No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal Test FC-2A Raise and support vehicle so that wheels are allowed to spin. Start engine. Using DRB-II, read Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal. Put transmission in any forward gear. If vehicle speed sensor signal is NOT greater than zero MPH, go to step 4). If vehicle speed sensor signal is greater than zero MPH, condition required to set fault code is not present at this time. NO VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL fault sets if Powertrain Control Module (PCM) does not see a VSS signal at PCM terminal No. 47, VSS signal circuit (White/Orange wire) under road load conditions. Possible causes are: open or shorted VSS signal circuit, open VSS 8-volt supply at sensor, open sensor ground, failed VSS, failed PCM or failed DRL module. Inspect all related wiring and connectors. Repair wiring and connectors as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Perform TEST VER-1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VSS. On 2WD A/T models, go to TEST FC-2B. On all other models, turn ignition on. Using DRB-II in voltmeter mode, probe VSS connector, VSS signal circuit (White/Orange wire). If reading is 4 volts or less, go to TEST FC-2C. If reading is greater than 4 volts, connect jumper wire to VSS connector White/Orange wire. While reading VSS signal on DRB-II, tap other end of jumper wire to VSS connector, sensor ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If DRB-II display is greater than zero MPH, replace vehicle speed sensor. Perform TEST VER-1. If display is not greater than zero MPH, turn ignition off. Put DRB-II in ohmmeter mode. Probe VSS connector, sensor ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair Black/Light Blue wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, go to TEST FC-2C. No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal Test FC-2B Turn ignition on. Put DRB-II in voltmeter mode. Using DRB-II, check voltage on VSS connector terminal No. 3, 8-volt supply circuit (Tan/Yellow wire). If reading is 7 volts or less, repair open in Tan/Yellow wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If voltage is more than 7 volts, probe VSS connector terminal No. 1, signal circuit (White/Orange wire) using DRB-II. If reading is 4 volts or less, go to TEST FC-2C. If reading is more than 4 volts, connect a jumper wire to VSS connector terminal No. 1, signal circuit (White/Orange wire). Using DRB-II, read VSS signal while tapping other end of jumper wire to VSS connector terminal No. 2, ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If DRB-II display is more than zero MPH, replace VSS. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II display was not more than zero MPH, turn ignition off. Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, check resistance of VSS connector terminal No. 2, ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If reading is 5 ohms or more, repair open in Black/Light Blue wire to harness splice. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-2. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to TEST FC-2C. No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal Test FC-2C Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connector. Inspect PCM connector for damaged or pushed-out terminals. Repair as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If PCM connector terminals are okay, check resistance of VSS signal circuit (White/Orange wire) between PCM connector terminal No. 47 and VSS connector using an external ohmmeter. If reading is 5 ohms or more, repair open in White/Orange wire. Perform TEST VER-1. If reading is less than 5 ohms, put DRB-II in ohmmeter mode. Probe PCM terminal No. 47, VSS signal circuit (Orange/White wire) at PCM connector. If reading is 5 ohms or more, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in White/Orange wire. Perform TEST VER-1.

DTC 11 - No Crank reference Signal At PCM - Test FC-11A Using DRB-II, select SENSOR TESTS. Start engine. Using DRB-II, read engine RPM. If DRB-II does not show a RPM reading, go to step 3). If DRB-II shows a RPM reading, condition required to set fault is not present at this time. NO CRANK REFERENCE SIGNAL AT PCM fault sets if no signal is present during load conditions with vehicle speed more than 10 MPH. Possible causes are open or shorted 8-volt supply, open or shorted CKP signal circuit, open sensor ground, failed CKP sensor, and failed PCM. Inspect wiring and connectors. Repair harness or connector as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If no problems were found with wiring and connectors, wiggle harness between PCM and sensor while observing RPM reading on DRB-II. If RPM became erratic or stopped, repair harness or connector where problem occurred. Perform TEST VER-1. If RPM did not become erratic or stop, see INACTIVE FAULT CONDITION. Test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor. Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, probe 8-volt power supply circuit (Tan/Yellow wire) in crankshaft position sensor harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Tan/Yellow wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, turn ignition on. Using DRB-II in voltmeter mode, probe 8-volt power supply circuit (Tan/Yellow wire) in crankshaft position sensor harness connector. If reading is 7 volts or less, go to TEST FC-11B. If reading is more than 7 volts, connect a jumper wire to crankshaft position sensor harness connector, signal circuit (Gray/Black wire). Using DRB-II, read RPM while tapping other end of jumper wire to sensor ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If DRB-II shows an RPM reading, replace crankshaft position sensor. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II does not show RPM reading, turn ignition off. Using DRB-II in ohmmeter mode, probe crankshaft position sensor, ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair Black/Light Blue wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, disconnect PCM connector. Check connector, and repair as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If connector is okay, check resistance of crankshaft position sensor signal circuit (Gray/Black wire) using an external ohmmeter. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair Gray/Black wire for open circuit. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, put DRB-II in ohmmeter mode. Probe crankshaft position sensor harness connector, signal circuit (Gray/Black wire). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair Gray/Black wire for a short to ground. Perform TEST VER-1. Test FC-11B - No Crank reference Signal At PCM Turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Check PCM connector, and repair as necessary. Perform TEST VER-1. If connector is okay, check resistance of crankshaft position sensor harness connector 8-volt supply circuit (Tan/Yellow wire) using an external ohmmeter. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair Tan/Yellow wire for an open circuit. Perform TEST VER-1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1.

Here is a brief write up on how to turn up the power on your 1st Generation Cummins truck with a Bosch VE Injection pump. Low Boost Fueling Adjustment (Smoke Screw) Beneath the cap is a Torx T-25 screw and a lock nut that holds it. The locknut is 13 mm and has a 'break-away torque' of around 100 in-lbs. Tightening this screw will increase low boost fueling. Loosening this screw will reduce low boost fueling. You should adjust this screw to the point there is a light haze with heavy throttle but 0 boost pressure. Full Load Fueling Adjustment (Fuel Pin) The fueling pin is located under the cover with the smoke screw. Carefully remove the banjo bolt from the rear of the cover. Take notice to how little torque it took to loosen this banjo bolt. This banjo bolt is very thin and can be easily broken. Remove the cover and the diaphragm is underneath. Mark the position of the diaphragm before you remove it. Take notice that this pin, when removed, has a taper to it that is offset from the center of the pin. The deeper the offset placed forward will increase fueling. Shallower will decrease fueling. There are ground pins that are ground even deeper that will enhance fueling even more. The governor pin comes from the front of the pump and points towards the rear on the pin. There is aftermarket fuel pin available from vendors on the internet like www.dennytperformance.com . AFC Starwheel Adjustment The star wheel adjustment will change how fast the fuel pin will move in relationship to boost pressure. More you screw the starwheel down (tighten) the quicker the fuel pin will react to boost pressure. More you screw the starwheel up (loosen) the more boost pressure it will take to move the fueling pin. Full Power Adjustment (Main Fuel Screw) Take a 13mm wrench from the bottom area you should be able to reach up and loosen the jam nut. Now the more you screw in the main fuel screw the more fuel will be delivered. This adjustment will alter idle setting so more your screw in the higher the idle will become. WARNING! Turning up the main fuel screw too far might cause a run-away condition so make sure you have a board or a heavy rubber cap or such to cover the turbo with to shut down the engine in a runaway condition.

Old School Method The first thing you need to do is pull the valve covers off the engine. You'll need a socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolts till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve covers will come off. Just lift the 6 covers straight up. Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) using the timing pin found under the injection pump. Mopar's Notes Once TDC found using the timing pin mark the damper and the gear case in one spot denoting TDC. There is a reason for this... Now check the rocker arms on number 1 cylinder. both should be loose at this point. If not check both rockers on cylinder number 6. If cylinder number 6 is loose then your 360° out on the crank, so rotate another 360° till you line up on your TDC marks again. WARNING! Be sure that the timing pin is pulled out of the gear before rotating the engine. Otherwise damage to the timing pin will occur! Here is the valve clearance measurement Valve Clearance Exhaust Valves 0.020 Inches Intake Valves 0.010 Inches But if you followed my suggestion above now you wouldn't need to mess with that pin anymore! But for making things simple we'll start at TDC of number 1 cylinder with both rockers loose. Step 1 Cylinder Number Exhaust Valves 1,3,5 Intake Valves 1,2,4 now rotate the engine crank 360° again so now cylinder number 6 rockers should be loose. Using your new timing marks on the damper. Step 2 Cylinder Number Exhaust Valves 2,4,6 Intake Valves 3,5,6 Now reassemble the valve covers.

Repriming The Fuel System Procedures You'll have us this procedure if... Your truck has run out of fuel. You got a air leak in the fuel system allowing the injection pump to lose prime. Done any kind of fuel system work. Reprime procedure 1. Add 5 to 10 gallons of fuel to vehicle tank. 2. Open the hood and hand operate the fuel lift pump by pushing down on prime button until resistance is felt approximately 30 times). 3. Start engine using normal procedure. 4. Engine may run rough until air is forced from lines. Mopar's Notes To make it easier to start crack injection line 1,2, and 3 loose. This will open every other injector line in the firing order. Firing Order: 1,5,3,6,2,4 Once the engine start to sputter. Then tighten the injection lines and try starting again. WARNING! Don't run the starter more than 30 seconds or starter damage could occur. Allow starter to cool for about 1-2 minutes before trying again. DANGER! Don't bleed the fuel system of a hot engine! Be aware of high pressure spray from the injector line could cause personal injury or death! Engine might start during reprime procedure.