Mopar1973Man

Edge Comp and the P0237 is problem more than likely the boost fooler failed in the Edge Comp. Double check your grid heater relays make sure the wires are all attached. That is the P0382... APPS sensor appears to be junk. P0121, P0122 and P0222. Then a timing error P0216 on the VP44. What's your fuel pressure?

That amount of weight you really do NEED a pyrometer I still think your running way too hot for the weight you got. Once you get the gauge you see what I mean about keeping it cool.

What's the weight of your trailer? Towing my 8,000 pound RV I can climb most 6-7% grades in 4th gear (1:1 ratio). So for your truck with automatic it would be OD OFF and you would be the same gear. Now speed wise I typically climb at about 53 MPH which is right at 2,000 RPM's. There is only a few times I've had to back down to 3rd gear and climb at 35 MPH. Take an example from the truckers. They don't climb grades slow because of lack of power but controlling EGT's and coolant temperatures.

Absolutely. Our diesel truck could flatten a Smart Car or Pirus without much effort. These tiny light weight cars are not that strong. They are build with economy in mine so everything is lighter, thinner, less metal, less structure... All in the name of fuel economy. Like just quick search for Smart Car weight its only 1,800 pounds. Majority of the weight is the fuel, engine and transmission. That leaves very little to the structure of the vehicle. Heck even the little Dodge Pickup I drove yesterday I think it was a Dakota. Take about light weight truck. Same body design but smaller and lighter in standard cab design. Too me it felt a bit thin and marginal for safety. On the ice it was nearly worthless nothing enough weight to gain traction. Now you step up to my beast and newer your talking about nearly 4 tons of rolling missile. Steel frame, heavy duty everything, etc. We've got better protection that most hybrids or economy vehicles. Still a accident involving a 18 wheeler might be deadly still but we got a much better chance of survival. Being I'm certified for extrication for the Fire Department I've had my fair share of cutting people out of vehicles. Typically the economy vehicles are pretty gruesome. Most of the full size pickup fair better and some haven't. Just depends on the circumstance of the accident.

Now I got to ask what is your pyrometer reading during this time? Do you even have pyrometer? Like the gent I was working with yesterday complained about the very same problem. Towing his jet boat up a steep mountain grade from the Snake River and complaining about high coolant temps. Of course he's without a pyrometer and no way to know if he's over doing it. I know for a fact a "Completely Stock" truck can exceed 1,400*F in EGT's towing heavy loads. Anything over 1,100*F in EGT's you'll see a sharp climb in coolant temperature. My current ISSPro EV2 I programmed the warning light for 1,200*F so anything beyond that will trip the warning light. I typically back off to about 1,100*F which gives that buffer room for possible error of the pyrometer probe.

That one reason I own these two Dodge Rams. I've got some metal around me.

I got a call from a local gent that I done work for in the past. I replaced his lift pump and injection pump on his 1999 Dodge Ram. He called up today and told me of his tale of limping to New meadows and having the truck die on him. What he described was low fuel pressure with weak power. I told him to come and pick me up and we would roll out and look it over. After checking over the basic stuff I'm not hearing the Raptor lift pump running. I opened a test port and purged the system and it barely crawled up to 5 PSI. Ok. So I cranked up the regulator and got it up to 20 PSI for now to get it home. It last about 2 block and got weak again. Hmmm... Test gauge again... Fired it up and it ran for about 1 minute and the lift pump died 0 PSI. So we shut down. I knew I had a spare lift pump at home. So ran 20 miles back home grab a few odds and ends and that stock new lift pump. (Thanks to Bry1216)So ran back out and cobbled it together again using some of the Raptor plumbing and the stock. Got him up and running. But during those 2 trip back in forth I got plenty of time to school him up on why a fuel pressure gauge. He's now sold on the idea. Maybe we'll be lucky to see him show up as a member here. I told him to join up and talk with the rest of the crew here.

I don't have the original keyed lock anymore it was replace once before already. As for the new one its going be here on the 18th so I've got a entire week to wait.

First off... The far right tick is about 225*F coolant temp. Then of course the red tick is 240*F. I don't sweat till it leaves the operational span. Even then I've only ever reached 218*F dragging my RV over grades in 100*F heat.

Well I made a few mistakes. But still come to find out I need the lock too. Basically you need a T20 Torx screwdriver. Remove the 3 screws in the bottom of the column. Remove the tilt steering release knob. Remove both plastic covers. My screw up was I misplaced my security bits and found later after doing this next step. I took a center punch and broke the security pins out of the center of the Torx screws. So you need either a T20 security bit or take a center punch and break the center pins out. So what you need to do is remove the locking screw from the switch. My misfortune is that the lock assembly is also damaged. So I've made a phone call to the local NAPA store to find out the lock is $85 bucks. None in stock. So I found the lock cylinder on RockAuto.Com for $34 shipped.

Ask Fish & Game what kind of experiments they are doing?

Good old "Dripley" can tell stories of how his blew the entire tank off the one side of the radiator... If its in the plastic I say replacement time. Just for the safety value.

If its in the plastic tank it most likely a crack forming...

Like CSM I also do regular coolant flushes and my cooling system is still spotless inside 13 years later.

Just looking at RockAuto.Com there are radiators for $118 to $157... Not bad..

Ok Gang... I'm going to produce a write-up on how to replace an ignition switch and lock assembly for a 2nd Gen truck. More to follow soon. What happen was I took the 96 Dodge into town and load it with fuel brought it back home. Put it away. Later on realized I needed to bring in firewood for the night. So I went out fire up the truck and backed into the wood shed and shut it down. Loaded up with wood in the bed and tailgate. Hopped back in the driver seat turn the key and shock to feel the ignition switch snap internal and the key rolled over without resistance. No ignition, no start. I played with it for quite a little bit and figured out if I pressed the key inward just a bit I could get the ignition turned on. Now I pulled the start relay and jumped between 30 and 87 and got it started. Got the firewood move to the main house and unloaded. Pulled in the garage and shut it down. I can tell you the mechanical part is functional because the key unlocks the steering wheel but doesn't turn the switch for power or start.

I agree with you on this. You could but 9 times out of 10 the other 5 are on their way out as well. Like a long chat I had with Jacob @ DAP and Eric @ Vulcan Performance you find that if you send all 6 injectors in and have tested you find typically the other 5 are marginal and should be replaced. Yeah you can replace just the failed ones but performance now is wonky as well couple new and a couple old with difference in spray pattern quality. Then the same old problem couple weeks later here comes the next failing injector. Does it take the piston with it or not who knows? Same reason why you don't change just one injector on a 12V or 24V. Mostly puppies looking for big smoke and not set up properly and street racing with excessive hot EGT's. The other I see is people trying to short cut to big injector and buy just the nozzles without pop testing. As for CR and VP44 there is some differences being the CR is constant feed fuel system and the tight tolerances really do require good filters. Yes plural as in two filters. Again I agree with you about CR fuel system and quality filters.

Even going through site vendors 3rd gens are way more for injectors vs. 2nd gens. I can buy 2 VP44 pumps for the price of one set of stock CR injectors.

By chance Nick do you still have all your previous version of software?

Problem how will it handle the high current draw or charge rates of 140 Amps? How about grid heater cycling in and out? Assuming that diode would require a heck of a heat sink? Mounting location under the hood wouldn't work in the summer time.

Dead pedal is when it only idles. Limited pedal is when you press it and you get some throttle but typically limited to a very low speed.

Here is Vulcan at barely over $1,000 http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm Here is DAP... http://dieselautopower.com/bosch-027-vp44-fuel-injection-pump-standard-output-235hp-wire-tap-voids-2-year-warranty-vp44027/ Oh... BlueChip you have to pay at least $1,800 for a pump with a new PSG unit where both list above come with new PSG and been calibrated on a bench.

A reman'ed VP44 is just about $1200. P7100 conversion is about $3800. Not to mention all the things that won't work after conversion. You need to stop by either DAP or Vulcan Performance.

You can't use the engine that's for sure. VP44... Hard knowing again how he's treated the pump. Most people get the raw end of the deal buying used pumps.

I'm going to assume its the TIPM. I know AH64ID or Wild & Free can answer this one.