Mopar1973Man

Wow. Good bet the alternator didn't help the failure of the ECM. When an alternator age and brushes get short like that it starts to create AC noise. Computers don't like any AC power at all because it puts stress on everything that is a transistor, MOSFET, or diodes. As you'll see in the video below it causes all kind of weird issues. Just make sure to have any alternator tested before you leave the store new or reman'ed. You could try Module Masters in Moscow, ID and see if they can fix the ECM. They a bit fussy about what they will fix Dodge wise. http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/ Double check for any P0336 (crank sensor) or P0341 (cam sensor) error codes. That might cause issues with the alternator as well.

Again fuel pressure would show this issue. If the suction side or pickup assembly plugged up the pressure would sharply fall off like a rock to ZERO. Need a good test gauge with a long enough hose to see pressure while driving. Sound like an Airtex lift pump. Which confirms what happen the lift pump circuit in the ECM failed so they hot wired the lift pump instead of repairing the ECM. This is a band-aid solution to the problem it will work but eventually you'll have to consider getting the ECM repaired. Well... The bad part is we need to get back to some sort of normality. So what we need to do is insure fuel pressure is staying above 10 PSI no matter what. As for the performance issue lets do a bit more testing. Now if some can do a AC noise test on the alternator would be great. Basically take a DVM that can measure small voltage on the AC scale. Now probe the alternator BATT and the case. It should measure 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts roughly. 0.05 is getting marginal. 0.1 and more is failed alternator. I want to be sure the power being supplied to the computers is clean and not driving them nuts. Next I would clean all grounds you can most important ground is on the passenger side battery. The master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44 are on the passenger side battery. Be sure the batteries are in good condition and terminals are clean and not corroded or lead-oxidized (black).

If I'm not mistaken the 65's are the battery used in the 2003 and up trucks. Strange though you having issues finding 27's. I might have to peek around me and see how plentiful 27's are. As for "Reserve Capacity" So more or less in simple terms "Reserve Capacity" different bred of amp/hour rating. So 100 RC x 0.4167 = (41.67 amp/hours), 110 RC x 0.4167 = (45.83 amp/hours) or your last stated number 150 x .4167 = (62.50 amp/hours).

Typically two 6V batteries have more amp/hours of power than two 12V batteries. If there wasn't a weight issue I would say go for six 2V batteries they have even more stored energy. The problem is the more amp/hour storage the longer recharge time will be. @lrhull I hid your other post for you.

More than likely the lift pump is wired to the key (ignition switch). This is a unsafe practice. Typically done because the ECM circuit for the lift pump is fried. There is no relay or anything the OE lift pump circuit comes from these two pins in the ECM. There is a computer controlled MOSFET that switches on the pump when crank signal is detected. So if and when you do have an accident the crank signal drop to zero because of engine damage and the lift pump is switched OFF for safety. Where a direct wired lift pump will continue to feed the fire (if any) with fuel.

Stock spec is 750 CCA. Group size is nothing just shape and size typically of the battery. When I mention "battery size" I was saying CCA not group size or physical size. Of course a wore down battery is going to perform slower vs. a new battery regardless of physical size or CCA because the new battery will always have more CCA over the wore one taken out. This where I want to learn from the failure. Still I have to ask the question why didn't the battery last as long? I'm looking at factors that affect the lifespan of the battery and why your are shorter in life span?

Lift pump leads... Look at pins 15 & 35 on the ECM.

Black flush... Never had one nor will I need on. It so simple to prevent any problems. First before I leave on a trip I'll pour one 5 gallon bucket down the toilet to pre-start the black tank. NEVER start a boondock trip with a empty black tank. Also the fact boondocking water is precious so long flushing of water is very wasteful. So if you pee just flush without running a bunch of water most times I can just leave the pump off and just the prssure in the line is enough to refill the bowl slightly. As for dumping the black tank don't dump till full. So if I return home and the tank isn't full I will dump then grab a 5 gallon bucket of water and quickly pour it down the toilet the sudden rush typically is enough to flush the tank out faster than any black flushing wand or flush kit. Since the tank was pre started with 5 gallons less likely that waste will stick to the bottom of the tank and create the "poo pyramid". The other secret I store my RV with the knife valves OPEN. This allows the tank to dry out and the sensors always work next trip.

Yes. A high amperage battery charger typically will charge at about 15.0 to 15.5 volts for a 50amp charger.

LOL... I hate to say it its a fact of life... Crappy conversation but it's all part of owning an RV.

If you want your truck leveled... Really simple. Hitch up a trailer it will level right out every time. The ones that look funny as hell and piss me off is the ones with leveling kits that are towing that shining there headlight in my eyes because now the nose of the truck is high and the rear end is dragging like an old Ford.

Then there are people that get caught up in specs and don't under stand what they getting into. All I can say if I got all these vehicles with batteries, house powered by batteries, and an RV power with batteries. So far all the vehicles including my ATV and lawn mower. All I can say is consider what I said about battery size and charging.

Actually very noticable. I've done a 2" leveling kit on a Ford truck and was shocked at the huge change of axle placement. It pulled the front axle about 1-2" looking down the body you could see the axle on front was not centered. Your right Dripley... Simple Geometry if the axle goes down 2" and the track bar isn't longer the axle will shift over to the driver side because its not long enough.

Personally for as little as you'll use that toilet I really doubt it will every stain in the life of that RV. I might spend one month of living in my RV total for the entire year. The rest of the time it sits in the yard doing absolutely nothing and not being used. Think about it I've got a 15 year old RV and the toilet is like new yet. The only thing that looked well used in the old sticker on the toilet lid explaining care of the toilet which is unreadable now. I say leave the stock toilet in and just enjoy the RV.

Even my RV has the standard ol' plastic toilet. No issues. Very easy to keep clean and haven't had to repair it at all yet.

Easy to check get a person in the cab, start the engine rock the steering back and forth slowly. A second person watch both ends of the track bar. If any movement is seen the track needs to be replaced.

It typically gets deeper in note with more of a grunt sound when its pumping solid fuel.

No, it's not normal. I only see roughly 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT throttle with warm fuel. Cold fuel can drop more like 3-4 PSI in minus weather.

I've been contacted by several people that said, "You told me so..." Don't make any long runs with rubber hose. All it takes is one kink or a plug of ice and it will blow out the tappet gasket or crank seals. Several people thought the same thing. The one I felt sorry for was the one being towed back out of the Alcan Highway which was an expensive tow all just because of wanting to use a rubber hose for vent instead of PVC pipe.

I've got plenty of yard for a mobile chicken coup like in the video. Just how do you keep them warm as we get plenty of snow. Then the whole mobile chicken coup is worthless in the winter being its hard to scratch for food if the ground is frozen. I've always wanted to have chickens here but how to protect them and how deal with winter cold and feed.

If it's outside I've been known to just crank till it fires then tighten down the lines after its started.

Only crack 1,3,4 leave the rest of the injectors alone. Then crank till she starts. Typically I'll crank for 15-20 second burst. If there is no action. disconnect your grid heaters at the battery. The give the air intake a quick burst of starting fluid and crank it up. I've only had one rare time that I had to pop a engine with starting fluid to get it started.

Problem. To do the bearing preload adjustment you have to remove the gearbox from the truck. If you going to remove the gearbox to adjust it you might as well do the rebuild. You can do the sector adjustment (over center adjustment) on the truck which is typically where most play is.

Just got paged out to a house fire which actually was a RV. When I arrived at the scene the owner managed to put the fire out himself on the RV. So from that point it was a matter of inspecting the RV for any remaining smoldering material. What I learned about this... Make sure you inspect around your furnace for anything that might burn like dust and lint build up. Look and see if there is any electrical near the furnace ducts or anything might get hot. Like this particular RV was a toy hauler and had the furnace stuffed between basement storage and the entry door. Most of the electrical is ran near the furnace area. Always use the proper sized fuse for all your 12V accessories. Check the vents on the outside for debris in the burner vents. Mud daber nest could possibly create a fire problem. Always check your exhaust vent for sign of sooting which is a burner issue.

The biggest and most important thing. Buy an RV that fits your family. Make sure the beds are big enough for everyone. Like the jack knife sofa in my RV is nice to sit on to watch TV but its too small of a bed for me to sleep on. The queen size bed is fine for me but the other two beds are too small. MoparMom loves that jack knife sofa just right for her. Make sure the bathroom has enough room to use. I've seen some small bathrooms in RV's. I've seen some are really tight and difficult to even get a good shower without banging elbows. Living area or common area make sure there is enough seating for the family. What good is it to have enough beds but not enough seating for the family in the common area. Kitchen, make sure to find a kitchen with some counter space. Like my last RV there was no counter space and you had to do all food prep at the dining table.