Mopar1973Man

Pretty simple just run your heater hose all the back to the fuel tank and back forward again.

I can tell there is 2 cycle oil in the fuel but that fuel is awfully cloudy looking. EDIT: I'm going to say if the banjo is starting to rust... Then you have a watered fuel issue. Apparently your water separator isn't working to well with because your fuel filter is of low quality.

I've got a truck parked in the yard with ZERO fuel pressure. Has been for quite awhile. The previous owner install a Edge Juice CS and didn't both to install either the boost elbow or the fuel pressure sender.

Yes sir..

Ok. Then how about watching it rain here but in the distance mountain watch it snow. No fancy devices, no fancy internet sites. I say the weather today is going to be rainy and mild. High country snow possible with 1-3 inches of accumulation. LOL...

Interesting video... Link...Video

Then we must be having a summer heat compared to all of you.

I still say to turn the grease trick it should make a temporary fix and problem should go away for a short time. Eric at Vulcan Performance has warned me of the suction line being known for rolling the o-ring back and getting air leaks. Thick axle grease should fill the void for a short time and make a change. If so then you know that it would be best to just change the fittings out and replace them with Parker Push-Loc fittings.

Weak batteries will cause problems on the PCM possibly an alternator noise issue. As for the linkage just check quick to be sure the throttle bellcrank and the transmission key down arm are moving at the same time. You should barely be able to see the transmission arm while moving the throttle bellcrank. They should move together at the exact same time.

Call Module Master in Moscow, ID they can rebuild the ABS module for a good price and comes with a 5 year warranty. http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/

First of test your cluster and see if it is damage or throwing errors. Second there is a plug on top of the oil filter mount. You can add a oil pressure gauge there for testing or permanent. The actually oil pressure sender is typically right near the ECM on the driver side of the block. 3 pin plug.

Ah here you go... Local outfitter. Small bones Eh? It's still a trout... Steelhead...

We got a local reservoir full of perch. Fish and Game have been trying to get rid of the perch and bring back the trout. If you show up in Idaho I'll take you there.

Nothing wrong with trout they make a great breakfast with a side of eggs.

Even here for the house. As the temperature fell towards 0*F the glass window even double pane would get cold enough to condense moisture right out of the air. In the RV the living space is smaller and just daily tasks like heating water for coffee, or making dinner can produce enough humidity to condense moisture on the glass windows. So typically the kitchen vent and the bathroom vent I would open about 1 inch enough to allow moist air to rise out. I've got 1 small window by the couch that you can crack open barely and keep the moisture levels controlled. Now I've forgotten a few times and got up to windows dripping wet and running water.

Here you have to remember the the elevation is only 2,800 feet. Now New Meadows proper is a different story all together at 3,829 feet. Now McCall, ID at 5,417 feet...

Good Morning from Idaho...

Like one of these... http://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Fantastic-Vent/FV801200.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKEAiAxfu1BRDF2cfnoPyB9jESJADF-MdJQLLQeBYqwYEcibMASnWLG1XoGi8U7PIrptE-XRVRthoCZ-Xw_wcB

LOL... You got to leave a roof vent open just a wee bit. Even in my massive RV two people just can produce a lot of moisture in the air. So even in the cold of nights I'll crack bathroom and my bedroom roof vent just a small amount to allow moisture to travel out. In my old truck camper idea it was really common to wake up to it raining inside from all the moisture collecting on the aluminum canopy and every time someone rolled over it would shake off on the you in bed. You'll learn how to keep ventilation going to limit moisture levels.

258k (14 years) and not a single coolant issue yet... No scale, no build up at all. Now I've seen more damaged vehicles cooling system wise from over extending coolant flushing. Funny part is it doesn't matter if you use fancy HOAT and distill water or premix it will still cause scale build up after the pH level shifts and becomes corrosive.

I typically use Xylene to remove stickers. Still it may take the paint as well. It seems Xylene is a bit milder and doesn't seen to do it all the time.

That's why I went with a bumper pull vs. 5th wheel so I can take the ATV (Iron horse) in the bead of the truck and no need for double towing. Unless someone considers the upgrade to a toy hauler 5th wheel or bumper pull. I think for what Nick got and what he's looking to do it should work out rather well. I'm waiting to hear the return of the first trip. Personally myself I would do a local camping trip near home so to iron out the what I need to stock issues.

Quick test to prove the problem. On the section side disconnect and wipe the male nipple clean and then grease the male nipple and reconnect. Do both ends tank and pump. Then start the truck again afterwards to reprime the line. Then park as you had it again see if thee problem occurs again. IBMobile is right just replace all the crappy quick connects with Parker Push-Loc fittings.

I tend to agree it sounds like your picking up a bit of a air in the fuel.

I'll try that next time. Sounds like a awesome way to go for cleaning. Yeah it was poor planning on my part and then get word of a sudden shift in weather so I drain it out and pumped it up. Takes exactly 1 gallon to load my system with pink antifreeze.