Mopar1973Man

Pictures wanted...

Just found out the ABS module is for sure good. I just did a temporary test from a clients truck to find out both modules behave the same. So that means there is sensor / hub issues in the front.

If the WTS light is delayed there is internal memory issues in the ECM and the ECM is NOT booted up and functional. The first instruction is to fire grid heaters. So that's why I asked. Still in all the boost fooler inn the Edge should keep the MAPP sensor voltage low enough not to trip no matter how high the boost goes even to 100 PSI. Like my truck I touch 37-38 PSI and never trip a single P234 code. Just because you changed the alternator doesn't mean its good. We've seen brand new alternators spitting out over 0.1 AC volts and cooking ECMs, PCMs, and VP44 and create all the other weird issues too. Still charge fine but way too much AC noise. Normal is 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts. Marginal is 0.05 Ac Volts A fail is 0.1 volts and above.

Ok. First off welcome to the family here... Next off... P0253 code is a VP44 failure. Yeah it's dying. As for P0234 is not typical of a Edge Product tuner. That means that either the boost fooler failed internally. Thing I'm concerned about is the P0253 code is a sign of alternator problem possibly. By chance is the WAIT TO START light coming on instantly or is it delayed? Just looking if there is any ECM damage possibly causing long cranking sessions.

The flame looks like a strong bic lighter. About 1-2 inch tall flame from a small burner. Basically consumption wise from lightest to heaviest. LIGHTEST Fridge -> Cook Stove / Oven -> Water Heater -> Furnace HEAVIEST I typically will fire up the fridge and not even worry about running it on AC power. The water heater I will selectively turn off and on when needed don't need to waste fuel for heating water through the day. Furnace I installed a programmable digital thermostat. Very handy in getting the most from the heater use. Have it cut back during the night and burst heat in the morning then level off or lower during the day. Propane typically isn't an issue till you say furnace... Power wise... Forced air furnace is the heavy power user typically. My fridge has 6A fuse if that gives a clue also the water heater is the same as well. So power wise... HEAVIEST Furnace, Lights, Water pump, Fridge, Water heater LIGHTEST

LOL. Fridge uses so little. Even in my old 1976 Dodge Jamboree the old Dometic Fridge would go nearly 2 months on a single 20# propane bottle. I know my Jayco with the Norcold electronic fridge will go over 7-10 days on a single battery charge Well over 2 months on a single 30# propane bottle.

Yeah... Normally good alternator is around 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts.

Dang you Dave you had to bring that up didn't you...

Calendar entry has been made for the Site. Might want to click if your going or not.

Thanks Nick. That would be insulting to use a "Idaho Potato" for a exhaust brake.

Personally think they need to be moved to the article database to be saved.

That's why I love my Edge Products boost elbow. No adjustment and does like it should and provides 35 PSI boost pressure. I've got an adjustable boost elbow in my toolbox but hate that darn thing 1/16 of a turn could change boost 5-10 PSI. A matter of fact I got to order a boost elbow for the truck in my yard. Edge only wants $10 bucks for the elbow.

Correct. I use mine quite a bit for exactly what you asking about. I go into the back country to help ranchers from time to time. So spend the night at a remote cabin and get pu in the morning to a windshield loaded with snow and ice. Kick the exhaust brake on and 3 cylinder high idle and pop the EGT's right up to 800*F and heat in the cab in about 5 minutes.

Dream on...

Let's say the big panel 400w array in the yard on a overcast day. I'm lucky if I charge at 3-5 Amps @ 26.4 VDC. Best is 15.1 Amps @ 26.4 Volts for 400 watts.

I can't understand why anyone would mount solar panel on the roof of the RV? Then that means you have to park in the sunny area for the solar panel to work meaning the interior of the RV will be hot during the summer. The gent that cuts my hair did this exact same mistake. Now he complains on how poor the panels work. No duh... Parking in the shade of a tree to keep the RV cooler now the solar panel is worthless. This is why I went to free standing you can park in the shade with the RV stays cooler and put the panels in the sun.

Yes. Just like you need a voltage regulator for your alternator. Yes. Consider your size and weight. They are glass faced so make sure you con sider where it going to be stored. Yes. Positive and Negative from the solar panel(s) to the solar controller then another pair of positive and negative from the solar controller to the batteries. Consider your voltage loss in distance too. So your distance of cable will have to be considered. Like here at the house I've got eight 50w panels for a total of 400w = 26.8 Volts DC x 14.9 Amp DC pretty light duty. But the run from the pole to the garage is about 120 feet and requires 2 ought cable. So if the panels have 26.8 the far end will be 26.4 volts at 120 feet. http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html The black box on the right is my solar controller, above is the main breaker to the batteries. White large box is the master feed breaker to the inverter. (200 Amp DC). As for solar size it about how fast you can recharge the batteries. There is panels out now that for a single panel you can get 300 watts. Matter of fact I'm pulling the eight 50w panels soon to upgrade to four 265w panels (1,060 watts). Need better recharge rate in the winter time. For an RV. my cheapy Harbor freight 45w panel set and solar control is more than enough power to take care of a a old school 13" CRT TV, DVD player and all the other 12V RV stuff I got on board like water heater and fridge. So that controller is 45w = 13.2 VDC x 3.4 Amps DC. It stops right about 13.2 volts typically. So a good quality 100w panel would be killer. 100w = 14.0 VDC x 7.1 Amps DC nice mellow charge rate.

Like my cheap harbor freight solar panel controller has one USB ports and the Harbor freight 1200w has one USB port.

Easier yet just do the AC voltage test every oil change...

Most of these are just over glorified crooks. I'm not impressed with most of them. Trump is... Well... Um... OK. Hillary absolutely NOT she need to go to jail. Obama also should go to jail.

My old 76 Dodge motorhome was fairly basic. 12V lighting, water pump, AM/FM radio, and propane radiant heater, water heater, fridge, cook stove. That was a wonderful RV house battery would go for nearly a week with light duty lighting inside. Propane wise I've manage to survive in 0*F winters and two 20# propane bottles would barely get me a week. The new Jayco is more power hungry. Everything is electronic. From just putting LEDs in the bath room that was a huge power saver.

20# bottles are fairly cheap. Depends on what size the cabinet holds. I'm going to assume 20# bottles.

That's the basis of my design. Cheap power and low power usage. Mostly have the solar for recharging the batteries for lights, pump, and furnace (forced air). I added the inverter because then if I want to charge a cell phone, tablet, etc I can. Again low power usage. I do have a portable TV and DVD play for the night is just too quiet I can watch a DVD movie if I want. Still converting to LED lighting yet...

Better the Hillary... Anything but her! Please!

Catfish Junction - http://www.catfishjunctionrvpark.com/default.asp?file=Home