Mopar1973Man

Internal ECM issue? What the rest of the sensors doing for voltage? Are they all matching or just the MAP weak? This kind of makes a difference.

I could of installed four VP44 for that price. Or bought a good set of CR injectors for that price.

No. That ground wire is a power ground. As for the sensor grounds that is a floating ground that doesn't tie to body ground directly. So total to separate issues. ISX learned the hard way and figured he would join all ground to together ended up frying the PCM in result. So treat sensor ground and power ground as separates.

I had the same thing happen years ago. Local ma and pop station got fuel didn't make it much farther than 5 miles and the WIF light came on. After doing some study work and how the local fuel station tended their pumps and delivery of fuel. So now I know like the Chevron I get fuel at has high quality water blocking filter at the pumps. Now as for the Mom and pop is just a standard paper filter that passes water no good. More or less get what you pay for you want cheap dirty watered down fuel or spend a few pennies more a gallon for quality fuels.

Remember VP44 has a tone wheel too. So the crank sensor in the block might of died but the VP44 can still operate off its own tone wheel. This is why the BlueChip hot wire trick for testing the VP44 there is no ECM or sensor data its a stand alone VP44. If need be you might have to go that route to verify too is Bluechip hot wire test and see if the engine starts.

Quadzilla boost fooler is fried.

I'm shocked that you don't own a scan tool.

the P1688 is the scary one... Double check your P0235 there isn't such code for our trucks. I would assume its P0236 which would point to a Boost Fooler issues in the Quadzilla. Boost volts are too high too long. Might have to do a dry run without the quadzilla and see if the code can be cleared and stay away. Might have to do a dry run without the quadzilla and see if the code can be cleared and stay away.

Take a digital thermometer or laser temperature gun it should measure about 150-160*F out of the center vents.

Sam here. I've got my shop rigged up with a garden hose and the power washer at the door so I can roll th truck outside and power washer from front to rear and bottom to top. Take notice I said bottom to top. Best to start at the bottom of the truck and then work upwards. Another trick is to lay on a creeper that way to keep you out of the water. I've taken the time to dielectric grease all my electrical to prevent water issues. So everything is far game but of course no close up and personal spraying of the connectors it will push water in even with di electric grease. I'm like TFaoro I power wash the truck as much as possibl keeping everything clean. This way its really easy to keep track of all leaks.

... and a can of diesel.

I'm the same way. I'll power wash the engine before and after so my working environment is clean as well as the vehicle looks clean for the owner. Only take a few extra moments to wash it down before and after. Makes finding leaks easy this way to. Just follow the wet spot.

I'll make sure to bring my weed torch. I'm not going to get suckered into that job...

Like I'm using a product from Home Depot right now that is a purple cleaner of sorts. Works wonders on greasy engines and under vehicles. Power washer with 15* angle tip is awesome for cleaning with. If you use a 0* angle tip it's like a laser beam and kind of a pain in the rear. But it's the most powerful for cleaning things that are caked up. Typically the rest of the truck I'll wash with a 40* angle tip much milder.

Be careful with water pressure. Like myself, I've got 116-118 PSI at the faucet. Won't take much to blow a heater core. Correct way of fixing it but not cost effective is to pull the heater core out and rod the core out.This only works if you have the old brass core because you can remove the header and rod it out. I've done this in the past and it typically ends up with a leaking core anyways because the tubes tend to get thin if they have scale build up. Typically from corrosive coolant and oxidizing the metal and then condense then into solids at the coolest point heater core and radiator. So you better off just replacing it most times.

No I hauled my tablet out to the RV for tunes. Then thought about the clips for the blinds and figured I would post the picture of the stereo. I had to pull it out to re-wire my propane detect again. Crappy scotch-loc's and Not sure if the propane alarm is any good. Do some testing on it. I'm hunting for a quality blind clip that is made from softer plastic that is semi-flexible. I've got some white plastic clips that do exactly this. Then the clear ones you find every where are super brittle and easy to break just trying to release the blinds. Does anyone know of a good place to find these semi-flexible blind clips? Help! I really do hate to pull up blind before I travel or forget and find them all beat up fro swing wild.

Good point. It would be a good idea to flush the system before hand. @notlimah Doing a heater core isn't bad. I've done my fair share of those and not hard. Just that you have to discharge the A/C system to unhook everything. Best to do it right. It sure would suck to do a half job and find out the evaporator is plugged up. Like this owner tells me now he has to roll down the windows to cool off because the heat is so strong now. So all I can say is bite the bullet and pull the entire HVAC case out and inspect everything. Oh this evaporator ran mud while rinsing it out with 3,000 PSI power washer.

Wha...!!!

About 10-20% chance that doing that will fix anything. The other bad problem is is there is any debris in the block it will plug right back up in a short time. So very rare that anyone cures a poor heater core by flushing which still points to a debris issue in the rest of the cooling system.

Now I'm hanging out in my man cave. Cleaned up the RV fixed few minor things like table bracket and then a few wiring issues. Pretty cozy out here. I need to find blnd clips that are not not the cheap clear plastic I keep breaking.

If your closer to me I charge $60 an hour shop rate and typically do a VP44 in about 2 hours. I'm I'm isolated here too. I'm 180 miles from any large city with anything.

Tweak that just a bit. Wipe both out clean then spray one end with WD-40 and then tell him the cleanest one get a free lunch... WD-40 will trap and flowing dust and debris on the walls of the tube.

Most heater issues are because of plugged heater cores. Then the next is the blend door coupler but usually there is a complaint of lack of control as the door swings back and forth freely.

I just had to do it. Nick over there talking about his slide in camper so I hitch up and moved mine out from under the tree. Then started to clean up the inside from all winter of sitting. Lots of dead flies, and other little critters to clean up. Just to show off the mobile man cave. Nice and roomy with the slide out. Bring it back in well it's tight but you can still use it. Full size queen bed not one of those short RV queen beds. A better picture of the power cabinet with the inverter, solar controller, converter, fuse panel and breaker box. So I'm on task for getting the RV ready for another season of camping. Damn you Nick its all your fault...

Looks like dusty roads and puddle jumping was occurring. Inhaled lots of dusty water. Just great for an engine. Trust me guys I'm going to show him this thread when he comes to pick up his truck.