Mopar1973Man

I'm going to say go back and check your wiring I'm sure you're going to find a loose connection.

I've seen this on my last truck I worked on. I had 1995 Dodge that the owner claims the previous shop installed a power steering pump. Sad to say the pump didn't last very long because the previous shop did not flush the system nor did they top off the fluid after dealing with the foam up issue. So, needless to say, the new power steering pump got damaged from poor installation.

If it continues and it misbehaving and causing issues I would consider going to a Dodge Dealer and having the entire truck reflashed and updated.

Welding sheet metal is a royal pain in the ... If you do it wrong the metal will bow and warp.

It true stock typically speaking it safe to drive without gauges. If you planning on towing at all or hauling any kind of weight I would highly suggest you consider the gauges. Personally, from what I know of the newer generation trucks with 6.7L engines, I would opt for the gauges because then you can monitor your EGT's and get them hot enough to keep the DPF cleared out.

Bad connection with the pyrometer probe. Remember a pyrometer is a very small voltage in millivolts. So a poor connection will create all kinds of problems in accuracy.

Typically error codes are held for 40 warm up cycles before being erased. So P0500 should not just vanish by starting the truck. Then reappear on the next key on. That's got me thinking there is an issue maybe in the ABS computer.

Yeah... That the thing of course FSM is going to state how only Mopar Fluids should be used. We all know the truth on that...

There is lot to be said about diagnostic tools. Each manufacture will have strong points and weak points. Personally my favorite is the OBDLink LX because of small size, cordless (bluetooth), it allows me to ride in the passenger seat and watch the streaming data while the owner drives. The nice part of the OBDLink LX is that it provides a numeric error code and if you got WiFi / Cell service then you can look up in the internet for more information about said error codes. Then I can step out of the vehicle and stand at the front of the vehicle and still use the tablet and watch data as I peak and test things. Where ScanGauge II and Innova 31603 are both corded and limited on reach. The Innova is my least liked tool. Yes, it will do ABS and SRS codes but way too much button pushing to get the data you need or want. This tool does come with a valuable database of information for error codes and information. Again does have its limitations. ScanGauge II is OK live data tool but limited to what the XGauge will provide. Like there is more data in some vehicles and if ScanGauge tech team is willing to provide you with the XGauge Data then it can be programmed into the tool to watch that special live data. For out truck 98.5 to 02 ScanGauge will NOT support anyone with custom XGauge data because of the difficulty of digging up the data. 2004.5 to current they will support because of the CANBus standard. Do a bit of searching on Google I bet you find articles on how to hack the CANBus and there is several people that done it with simple Bluetooth OBDII dongles like the OBDLink LX or MX.

Funny you happen to say that... I'm in the process of locating a local driveline shop to rebuild my rear drive shaft, new carrier bearing, and spin balance my drive shaft. I look at this way it been under the truck smacked by all kinds of debris for 258k miles and 14 years. Why not invest the money and have the shaft rebuilt right. Mine start acting goofy on the last trip towing the RV. Vibration and odd bucking. Come to find the carrier bearing rubber is shot.

Again... Like in my note from my previous post. So as for as for being the good stuff. Mostly likely good for the dealer as they empty your pockets of hard earned cash.

Yeah but during change up you might of loosen up some debris and now the hydro-booster is partial plugged up. More common than you think. This is why I always suggest doing a full system flush before putting in new parts or if the previous pump died then leave the return line off and flush before hooking up. This just insures debris isn't going to plug something. You could try using compressed air and back block the hydrobooster hoping to blow out the debris.

CHECK ENGINE light will remain ON till the engine is started. CHECK ENGINE light will come on for a bulb check every start up.

Something is not right. The only reason lines would vibrate is restriction. Now crazy question did you flush the system before installing your power steering pump and hydro booster? It very possible the debris from the previous failure is plugging up the hydro-booster creating this issue.

Interesting question... Mine I guess I would have to say is when the tones go off on my radio. I listen to the page and then get pumped up not knowing the full story other than the little tidbit on the radio. The race like hell to the closest fire station to the scene so it might be 40-50 mile run in my personal truck running 70-75 MPH to get there. Then hop in fire truck and finish the last leg to the scene. It all depends on the call out fire calls that are paged as house fire get me pumped up and figuring game plays in flight to the scene. Vehicle accidents a bit different being they typically are not moving and more of plan before you leave and which station to hit possibly. Still in all the fact of being in a massive forest fire and watching the fallout of flaming pine cones and watch fire surround you will make anyone adrenaline flow. It's more interesting when your the Commanding Officer for the group in the middle of this event.

What is the condition of the power steering pump? What's the condition of the power steering fluid? What type of fluid do you have in the system? Yes I've seen people load up with ATF and all kinds of weird material for power steering fluids. Is it possible the hydro-booster is defective? Makes me think you've got too much pressure if your generating that much heat. Higher the pressure the more heat generated.

Never really very measured the temperature per say but the hoses are never hot enough to burn you.

Talk to Cowboy about the power steering pump mod he'll show you the article on how to modify the pump for that issue.

Any generic power steering fluids found in most all auto part stores is fine. You can download a FSM from the download area and I'm sure it will state some sort of Mopar Part number for fluid. Like myself 258k miles on my power steering pump, steering gear box and hydro booster and zero, leaks and zero issues. Just like a said just flush every 30k miles. As for the old claim that synthetic is required for cold weather operation is also a false. I'm using the cheapy WalMart Supertech power steering fluid... Give you a clue. 1989 to 2002 is all power steering fluid. 2003 and up to current is ATF+4 for power steering fluid. It will be fairly obvious which you have once the cover is removed from the differential. Open differentials you'll clearly see the spider gears in the center of the carrier. Limited Slip you see a enclosed clutch pack. Open Differential Limited slip

That's the problem there is not set number for compression on these engines. More or less as long as it not excessive blow by and ejecting oil out the vent tube then it should be fine. Me personally... I would most likely tear it down and rebuild the engine. I look toward efficiency and reliability of the engine more than max performance and power. Again there is no set number saying you must rebuilt at... I'm curious pull your intake tube and shoot a picture of the turbo face. I'm curious of the S&B if the engine didn't take on some dusting. I'm not a fan of washable filters...

Is there any problems with the speedometer? Does it show speed correctly? If so then there is nothing to do.

I know from the 24V crowd a good engine is between 400-425 PSI but 24V engines are lower in compression than all others.

Needed to add a space between on the last post so...:shifty: won't work but ... will.

hmm... I still see it...

Power steering is power steering fluid not ATF. That didn't change till 2003 when ATF+4 was using in the power steering. Power steering system should be flushed every 30k miles. Typically close to 3-4 quarts to flush an entire steering and hydro boost system. Petroleum fluid suggested because this system is without a filter and regular fluid flushing should be done to prevent debris build up. Transfer case can be either ATF+3 or ATF+4 (Onwers Manual). I've been running ATF+3 and still no issues. Transfer case should be changed every 30k miles. Engine Oil any petroleum oil that meets CI-4 or better at 15w-40 for most normal use. Synthetic is optional and not required. Normal interval is 7,500 miles for oil and filter change by the book. Coolant green (factory filled), yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Typically use yellow universal that way if there is a emergency add needed either orange or green can be used as well. There is no listed mileage or change interval be I highly suggest that before the period of service life of the coolant. My last change was at 70k on 100k the coolant was darkening. Transmission fluid (auto) should be ATF+4 on 47RE transmission with service interval of 30k miles with band adjustments. Manual Transmission (NV4500 & NV5600) are Mopar Synthetics (two different fluids). No interval of change but highly suggest fluids be changed every 100k miles. On the NV5600 it's suggested to overfill by one quart because of bearing issues. Brake fluid is DOT3 and should be flushed out every 30k miles. Differentials front and rear. Petroleum 85w-90 GL5 Gear lubricant. Service interval is every 30k miles. Synthetics optional are not required. Windshield fluid any thing cheap. Out here in Idaho it don't take long to pump a gallon on the windshield. univerisal Door hinges, hood hinges, and all latches should be lubricated with engine oil. Batteries should be topped off with distilled water and equalize charge place on the batteries. This can't be done on AGM or sealed batteries. NOTE: You will notice I did not list any brand names because it not about brand names its about the specification of the fluid or material. As long as the fluid or material meet and exceed the requirement then it may be used.