Mopar1973Man

Seems fine to me...

There is no reason for a 5" unless you like it loud and lots of drone. For most of use that are daily drivers like myself there isn't much of a gain going even to 4" pipe. I'm still very capable of turning 20's in MPG with stock 3" and straight pipe setup with a flow through muffler (NAPA). Like myself I typically below 600*F EGT's for most driving and below 5 PSI of boost so there is no real back pressure issue.

Catch me if you can... Warm IAT temps are back and low cetane fuels have returned...

Another way to test for that is just unplug the APPS sensor and start it up or hot wire the VP44 then the APPS is removed.

No kidding. I was looking for two control arms for the truck I'm working on and I can say is there isn't much for parts here in Idaho (Boise Area). Doesn't matter if its a gas or diesel most of the bone yards are getting rather empty of Dodge Ram's.

I moved it out so the count number shows now. I had in hidden in the Social tab but the count never showed....

I've got a 4 terminal barrier strip. Basically 12V+, Key Power, Dash Lights, and Ground. So this ground goes to the dash frame. All my accessories are powered by this strip.

Very, very impressed with the idea of the bolts. Like I told @bms231 I'm going to purchase a set of bolts for this reason and keep them in my toolbox for future jobs. I'm sure soon I'll be doing more gear case resealing. Then his idea of pressing the speedy sleeve on with the damper. Again another very smart idea. So I got to give Brian a big High Five for great ideas neat tricks and idea!

Hey now. Old rigs are cool. I use to be a big fan of the 1970 cars and truck till I sold them all and upgraded to 2nd Gen collection.

I've got a funny though its something wrong with the valve body. There is 2 sets of springs for 1-2 shift and then 2-3 shift I wonder if one set of springs is damaged and its up-shifting too early against a damaged spring and the down-shifting because the pressure fell sharply. Educated guess...

But you can verify your current injectors for a either a very low price or free. Like my local shop with pop test for free as long as there is no adjustment of the injectors.

I told him he's suppose to catch the parts as they fly...

Here is a pic for today... A little vehicle line up. Excuse the haze skyline USFS is having fun with prescribed burns all over the place and the valley fills with smoke every evening. Ugh!

Hey don't knock my redneck carpentry skillz. If JAG was around I could get a killer bracket that was done in oak or something stylin'. At least the tablet isn't sliding around on the floor or the seat. I did a run down to Council, ID today and was OK with the location like I said the stick in 5th gear blocks the view really bad on the left side. 1st and 3rd aren't too bad. When I'm cruising town its viewable. Again I really don't want to be looking too much at it anyways. There is two things that tablet is doing... Providing me a good trip data logger. Providing the stereo MP3's through the AUX jack. I've been working with OBDLink staff to getting things added to the software like speedometer calibration and a few other things. I'll start another thread and show you...

You can help it a bit by customizing the throttle valve cable a bit. Get it to be close to what you want.

Here is a installer that screwed up the pyrometer probe install. As you'll see they drilled in the divider of the manifold.

I won't say that. Back when I barely installed my gauges completely stock powered no module or injectors yet. I was hired to tow a trailer loaded with a Chevy pickup to Boise for a friend. Just with cruise set at 65 MPH climbing 7% grade I was able to easily push 1,400*F without even thinking. At the time I was running DiPricol's gauges and they where less than 90 days old. So as for EGT's stock doesn't mean its safe.

My burnouts are typically done as I climb grades. Ask JAG1 one about that being he was in the passenger seat when it happened...

POOF! Call 911 Dave is BBQ'ing...

Be careful. Like BlueChip rebuilds pumps be unable to calibrate or flash a new PSG unit because BlueChip does not have a 815 test stand. If this company does have a 815 test stand can you please post up the information so I can add them to the list on the article database.

Kind of like us we use a mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits to protect the wood. I'm sure JAG1 will tell you the same thing that it will not protect against UV's. Which my deck has turned dark brown to black in color. Wood is holding up pretty good. The hand rails are getting rather weathered. As for your post idea... The whole idea of large log post is neat looking but going to add to your yearly house maintenance. Like last year I did not treat the deck because of the local fire. Had too many fires too close and the linseed and mineral spirits is rather highly flammable. So consider some of these factors.

Soak it with PB blaster and either use a 3/8" impact or shock the wrench with a hammer. When re-installing put a dab of anti-seize on the threads make life better if you have to remove the probe later.

Need to find out what tap you need. 1/8" NPT is typical but check what fitting your using. Then get the proper drill for that tap. You want to drill on top of the high part of the runner. The low area is a solid divider do not drill there. A lot of people have all kinds of tricks for getting drill crumbs out of the manifold. Using magnets, q-tips, leave the engine running while drilling, shop vacuum while drilling. As for tapping just tap deep enough for the fitting to bite. Like you seen mine is not sunk in the manifold you need to consider the tip and getting it roughly in the center of the manifold port.

Yes. Typically in the past it was always said the 4,5,6 port is hotter. Consider how many times you here of someone burning #6 piston.

Totally up to you. You could plug and re-drill and tap a new port in the rear 4,5,6.