Mopar1973Man

Something is not right. The only reason lines would vibrate is restriction. Now crazy question did you flush the system before installing your power steering pump and hydro booster? It very possible the debris from the previous failure is plugging up the hydro-booster creating this issue.

Interesting question... Mine I guess I would have to say is when the tones go off on my radio. I listen to the page and then get pumped up not knowing the full story other than the little tidbit on the radio. The race like hell to the closest fire station to the scene so it might be 40-50 mile run in my personal truck running 70-75 MPH to get there. Then hop in fire truck and finish the last leg to the scene. It all depends on the call out fire calls that are paged as house fire get me pumped up and figuring game plays in flight to the scene. Vehicle accidents a bit different being they typically are not moving and more of plan before you leave and which station to hit possibly. Still in all the fact of being in a massive forest fire and watching the fallout of flaming pine cones and watch fire surround you will make anyone adrenaline flow. It's more interesting when your the Commanding Officer for the group in the middle of this event.

What is the condition of the power steering pump? What's the condition of the power steering fluid? What type of fluid do you have in the system? Yes I've seen people load up with ATF and all kinds of weird material for power steering fluids. Is it possible the hydro-booster is defective? Makes me think you've got too much pressure if your generating that much heat. Higher the pressure the more heat generated.

Never really very measured the temperature per say but the hoses are never hot enough to burn you.

Talk to Cowboy about the power steering pump mod he'll show you the article on how to modify the pump for that issue.

Any generic power steering fluids found in most all auto part stores is fine. You can download a FSM from the download area and I'm sure it will state some sort of Mopar Part number for fluid. Like myself 258k miles on my power steering pump, steering gear box and hydro booster and zero, leaks and zero issues. Just like a said just flush every 30k miles. As for the old claim that synthetic is required for cold weather operation is also a false. I'm using the cheapy WalMart Supertech power steering fluid... Give you a clue. 1989 to 2002 is all power steering fluid. 2003 and up to current is ATF+4 for power steering fluid. It will be fairly obvious which you have once the cover is removed from the differential. Open differentials you'll clearly see the spider gears in the center of the carrier. Limited Slip you see a enclosed clutch pack. Open Differential Limited slip

That's the problem there is not set number for compression on these engines. More or less as long as it not excessive blow by and ejecting oil out the vent tube then it should be fine. Me personally... I would most likely tear it down and rebuild the engine. I look toward efficiency and reliability of the engine more than max performance and power. Again there is no set number saying you must rebuilt at... I'm curious pull your intake tube and shoot a picture of the turbo face. I'm curious of the S&B if the engine didn't take on some dusting. I'm not a fan of washable filters...

Is there any problems with the speedometer? Does it show speed correctly? If so then there is nothing to do.

I know from the 24V crowd a good engine is between 400-425 PSI but 24V engines are lower in compression than all others.

Needed to add a space between on the last post so...:shifty: won't work but ... will.

hmm... I still see it...

Power steering is power steering fluid not ATF. That didn't change till 2003 when ATF+4 was using in the power steering. Power steering system should be flushed every 30k miles. Typically close to 3-4 quarts to flush an entire steering and hydro boost system. Petroleum fluid suggested because this system is without a filter and regular fluid flushing should be done to prevent debris build up. Transfer case can be either ATF+3 or ATF+4 (Onwers Manual). I've been running ATF+3 and still no issues. Transfer case should be changed every 30k miles. Engine Oil any petroleum oil that meets CI-4 or better at 15w-40 for most normal use. Synthetic is optional and not required. Normal interval is 7,500 miles for oil and filter change by the book. Coolant green (factory filled), yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Typically use yellow universal that way if there is a emergency add needed either orange or green can be used as well. There is no listed mileage or change interval be I highly suggest that before the period of service life of the coolant. My last change was at 70k on 100k the coolant was darkening. Transmission fluid (auto) should be ATF+4 on 47RE transmission with service interval of 30k miles with band adjustments. Manual Transmission (NV4500 & NV5600) are Mopar Synthetics (two different fluids). No interval of change but highly suggest fluids be changed every 100k miles. On the NV5600 it's suggested to overfill by one quart because of bearing issues. Brake fluid is DOT3 and should be flushed out every 30k miles. Differentials front and rear. Petroleum 85w-90 GL5 Gear lubricant. Service interval is every 30k miles. Synthetics optional are not required. Windshield fluid any thing cheap. Out here in Idaho it don't take long to pump a gallon on the windshield. univerisal Door hinges, hood hinges, and all latches should be lubricated with engine oil. Batteries should be topped off with distilled water and equalize charge place on the batteries. This can't be done on AGM or sealed batteries. NOTE: You will notice I did not list any brand names because it not about brand names its about the specification of the fluid or material. As long as the fluid or material meet and exceed the requirement then it may be used.

LOL... Oh like I intentionally threw a hose clamp in the BHAF and put it back on... Right....

No. Because I don't break things typically. Lets say I've removed transmissions and transfers cases typically for doing clutches.

Basically P0500 code is from the fact off rear tire spins. The ABS has a hard time dealing with front half creeping out say 20 MPH and the rear is spinning faster. ABS can understand it so POOF P0500.

Exactly. I'm a bit different I've got one of both. 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 5.9L Auto 46RE then got the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins 5 Speed NV4500. Like right now I'm going to have my rear driveshaft rebuilt soon. Carrier bearing is wore and Just going to pony up and get the entire shaft new u-joints, carrier bearing, and then spun balance. So till then I'll be driving the 1996 Dodge. It like driving a whole new truck again. Going from diesel power to high revving gasoline power.

If so... Then where is your write up on rebuilding transfer cases?

Check the hub for clips on the studs holding the rotor in place. You might have to get behind and back off the parking brake shoes turn the star wheel towards the axle is loosen away from the axle is tightening. Last possible is nature's thread locker. You might have to spray the hub with PB blaster and smack the rotor with a rubber hammer to see about getting it to move.

I'm using 3 different scan tools... ScanGauge II, OBDLink LX, and Innova 31603. As for the ScanGauge II the quality point is the trip gauge is fairly accurate. As for the OBDLink LX its really good at reading all the live data in one screen and then showing the error codes with a fairly good definition. Still best to come here and check the OBDII codes. As for the Innova is a bit pricey but covers the ABS and SRS error codes on vehicles but doesn't cover 98.5 to 02... It starts in 03.

I was having wishful thinking that the weather would stay warmer. It is during the day but the night times are getting cold again. Thankfully it not that big of a issue. I've got a blow out plug back up to the shop, drain the water tank, blow the lines out, park for storage. The little 96 Dodge is great for this job but sure makes it squat.

Sad but true I would heed their advise. I would either do a compression test or use a bore scope and look into the cylinders. CR engines are known to do damage rather easy.

XL would be the the one I would take... Being I know the local cetane levels are already high. As for performance wise we are night and day difference. Much stronger pulling in 4th gear enough to break the tire lose on grades. Smoke free running. I do have a small puff of oil smoke on first start valve seal are getting sloppy. Other than that typically low to mid 20's MPG. Very little soot or smoke. Fuel system wise the only thing I changed was the +50 injectors. Still I won't knock the score that Opti-lube does have very impressive. Now if it was sold locally I would be more apt to purchasing it.

Hence why the production of the MPG fooler because of the excessive high timing advancement that degrades MPG and efficiency. At least for the 24V optimal is 100-140*F for intake manifold. You can read the outside air temp with IAT really easy just minus 40*F from the IAT and you'll look right at outside air temp on average. The only time that value shift to minus 50 is below about +32*F typically I'm running a winter front as well. Still very predictable value.

I was looking at the weather report and got to drain and blow out the RV. Night time temperature are going to fall into the 20's again. so here I am draining everything out again...

Love the shutter idea that is neat!