Mopar1973Man

Wiper motor park switch internally is wearing out. Mine is doing a little bit too. The only thing that could be done is replace the wiper motor.

Unknown on that part... The only thing I can say is hit a wrecking yard for that piece.

Most of it should be already there. Just need the headlight switch, fog lamp relay and the plug is typically under the radiator or near that area.

Most likely your not going to like it. If you wire to the headlight switch then you going to be bound by the lo beam only mode that Dodge provides. So if you turn on hi beams the fog light go off. Me personally I did something way different I use the fog light signal to toggle a relay and allow to have 2 bulbs on lo beam and then 2 bulbs on high beam. This way I kept the control from the dimmer switch and headlight switch still controls the light on or off.

My tools are typically used to often to really get rust on them. I don't clean them spotless either leaving a bit of oily film on most of them. Like myself for the odd stuff spray either silicone spray or WD40 on a rag and wipe the tool off. Put it away...

I did that way for many years...

Retake... I measured the location of my eyes and shot the photo from that position. Now you'll still notice at least for my pod there is just a slight bump that protrudes past the stock line. I don't know if my old pod is different that the new ones... @TFaoro As for the Scan Gauge II clip maybe that would be a good spot for your phone gauges...

Still even on mechanical gauges I would still have some means of shutting down the fuel at the tap point this way if there is a failure of any type then you still capable of driving the truck.

On an electric gauge like the ISSPro EV2, you can't use the needle valve for snubbing. Being the gauge is internally dampened by software and nearly impossible to set properly. Then needle valve now becomes a fallback safety shut off valve so if there was a tubing failure under the hood I can just simply close the needle valve and continue driving.

That the problem. I can't link to an FSM page. I know there is all the information everyone can want in the FSM but when you want to point some to information it's much easier to point to URL link than an FSM page...

Yeah I got to get more pro active now on the starting rust on my truck. Nothing on the body metal but the frame is now starting to show.

That's just mean as hell...

When you replace it make sure to lightly grease the seal. It will help for future removals.

Depends... Visually mine doesn't add any width to the pillar Like my 1996 Dodge doesn't have any a-pillar gauges and the 2002 does have it and the differences are so minor it un-real. Depends on how you sit in the seat. Even the 1996 Dodge has the same blind spot in turning tight corners just because of the pure width of the a-pillar post. So take notice to my picture that the gauge pod doesn't add to the A-pillar blind spot. So just leaning slightly towards the center of the cab kills that blind spot.

Push lock tee, brass elbow, needle valve, snubber push to connect fitting, 5 foot of 1/8" air brake tubing, push to connect fitting, then fuel pressure sensor..

Won't work. You only got about 8oz tops from the pump. There is about 32 ounces in the gear box. So since you working on dillution then you need to increase the change amount to nearly 2 gallons . Most people I catch do this don't get the debris out of system as you would flushing... Kind of like doing a oil change by unscrewing the filter and dumping it out. Screw it back on and refilling a quart. It won't work. Then repeating...

Correct I've got the same thing too on my exhaust brake vacuum valve.

Correction sintered brass or bronze...

We need to create a article on compression testing for the 3rd Gen and the limits. AH64ID are you up to it?

With any fuel pressure gauge you should never hook up at the VP44 inlet. With all electric gauges they should be remote mounted away from VP44. Like mine I've got 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line to allow reduction of water hammer pulses. At the tap point I've got a needle valve and a snubber. Then 5 feet of tubing to the sensor. Mechanical naturally have this long run after the tap point and also most are direct plumbed with a needle valve to dampen. Still in all I would use a ISSPro sintered stone snubber on my next mechanical gauge if I was to do it again. I'm very impressed with their snubbers.

Colors have to be careful with because if the shirt color is right I can eliminate on color and reduce the cost of printing the shirts. As for front or rear we can pick or maybe vote on it.

I've got the switches but no cables.

Nothing like a plane... You can't just pull over and call for help. That would be rather spooky. My fears... Lightning Heights or falling Small spaces, confinement, entrapment (don't ask me to spell that...)

In a nutshell what you do is unhook the return line from the pump. Cap the nipple on the pump that you pulled from. Route the return hose to a waste container. Now with the front axle jack up go lock to lock till it pumps the old fluid out. Then refill as needed. If it not willing to pump this method. Then do a lock to lock a few times to purge the gear box out the start the engine and pump it through this will take just a few second so be ready to shut off. Then refill and do the lock to lock some more hoping to move fresh fluid through the gear box. The steering gear box holds nearly a full quart of fluid so typically a flush will take 3-4 quarts to flush the system out. Then when you happen with what's coming out of the return hose is clear then hook back up the return line and refill and purge the air out. If the fluid is foamy (which it is typically) leave it sit for a about 30 minutes and then top off again. This is why I suggest petroleum power steering because a gallon of petroleum power steering fluid is like $20 bucks where synthetic is better $100 per gallon. So more people that which to synthetics tend to have more failure due to holding on to the fluid too long because of cost. I rather change often and keep following my current path of trouble free service!

Thing is that analog gauges are the quickest gauge to read. Like I've got the ISSPro EV2 gauges as well. Thing is that I'm never really looking at the gauges I can see relative position of the needles and know if things are normal or not. Digital gauges like my ScanGauge II you have to physically look right at the ScanGauge I read the numbers and see if there is a rise or fall. Where on analog gauges again you really don't have to look directly at them but you can see the needle movement up or down the scale. Now with like Tfaoro phone setup that big analog gauge is easy to read but the smaller digital gauges tend to again require more visual time to see trends on the gauge.