Mopar1973Man

Ummm... No pictures...

Towing my 8,000 pound, 31 foot long RV I get between 11-14 MPG. Check a few things? What's your fuel pressure like? Do you have any error codes? Just because the light not on doesn't mean it clear of codes. It can still get error codes and not trip the light. I would love to do it but I'm sure you are way to far to drive here. Most of those additives are junk anyway and do nothing but mask over the issue. You have to remember if you want a clean fuel system use a good quality filter (3 micron). Thing is most do get is you got a tank that is 4,480 ounces of fuel and dumping 8-16 ounces of any product in the tank is like pissin in a pond. More injector cleaner don't even clean an injector even if you soak it in 100% of the product. Most of these products increase cetane which mask the issue but also reduce the BTU's of the fuel.

Maybe... Just that Smarty has had poor fuel to boost ratio control for very long time.

(Speaking strictly 24V programmers and tuners here) $865.00 for Smarty Touch... Still only a 65 HP tuner. Just add a fancy touch screen and gauges. $649.00 for Smarty Programmer... vStill only a 65 HP tuner. $559.20 for Edge Comp 120 HP tuner... $597.81 for Quadzilla Adrenaline (iQuad) 180 HP tuner... Hmmm... So what would be so great about tuning is it still limted to 65 HP and going to most likely be high in prices vs. modules that produce way more power. Stacking... Just stacking cost too.

Big question is will it turn out to be another high dollar price tag for 60-65 HP tuner?

As for the boost leak I've seen it myself where a single manifold bolt blew out and would drop to 8-10 PSI and creates a smoky run, high EGT's at the OP is talking about.

LOL. They been talking about if for 3-4 years now. I gave up waiting for it long time ago.

I've heard the rumor a long time ago. Still waiting for it to come out.

Yes. First off the boost bolts are very thin hollow bolts. So it more common to see either boost leaks around a boost bolt area. Then find some that fights the leak and break the boost bolt off in the hole because attempting to seal boost leak by adding more torque. The other problem is boost bolt puts the tubing on top and in the way of most valve and injector work so it more likely to snag or break the tubing now. The port in the manifold is 3/4" NPT so you need to find a bushing or 2 bushing to reduce from 3/4 to 1/8 NPT. Once you got it reduced down then you can install your tubing so it runs down and curls back up to the cowl heading more to the driver side fender. This allows for working around the MAP and IAT sensor without much issues.

Here is the kicker. If you order RV275 most of the time a guy runs around back grabs 6 random injectors and tosses them in a box and ships them to you. When I order my +50 HP from Vulcan Performance Eric put the extra effort into them and pop tested and flow match them for me. So there is a bit better quality in these +50 HP injectors versus say an off the shelf RV275 injector. So if you discuss it with the injector vendor and ask for the extra effort be put into the injector set it will net you better out come. As for MPG's mostly remained the same. Since the price of fuel fell to $2 a gallon I gave up the hypermiling. So my MPG's are actually lower like hover around 19-21 MPG typically empty but weather is still rather cold up here yet.

I tend to agree. I would look for boost leaks first thing and also inspect that turbo for damage or wastegate issues.

Something with a 1/8 NPT bung.

Well geez... What good is it to put a pan drain in if I can't install a temp sender?

What's the thread on the plug? I can see the 1/2-20 but the plug has be something else?

Link please! I'm looking for this fitting...

Might want to talk to our "Site Transmission Guru" he does sell kits for rebuilding transmissions and upgrade kits. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/ I just got done having him build my little 46RE and he did a awesome job. Worth taking the moment and talking to him.

@JAG1 Your a 2nd Gen 24V vs. 3rd Gen CR. Ratios are a bit different since they have pre-injection phase.

Any 2 cycle oil will work. Preferred to be petroleum and not synthetic. 200:1 ratio is normal for CR engines. I highly suggest you at least get a boost and pyrometer gauges. Rail pressure would be a good too but you can get that with a live data tool like OBDLink LX or similar.

Personally spending about $5 a quart for ATF+4 I would look towards fixing the leak and changing the fluid in one shot. But, that's me.

Doesn't exist... That old rubber diaphragm was replaced long time ago with a steel plate. Some people love to use that old diahagm story to sell VP44 pumps. After having a long conversation with Idaho State Police Officer about GAWR, GCWR and GVWR numbers. As he told me no matter what its illegal to be over your GVWR on the trailer or vehicle... Period. Take notice I'm only 160 pounds away from my vehicle GVWR and 620 pounds away frm my trailer GVWR. Tight but legal.

As for the Trans Leak. As for the thermostat you should reach 190*F no matter what. Even in sub zero weather ad not towing. So the thermostat is shot. Well I would highly suggest you change th ATF in the transmission. Just loosen the valve body a little bit and it will drain the torque converter most of the way for you. Adjusting the band are in the FSM in the download area. Typically you torque to 72 inch/pounds and then back off X amount of turns. If I'm not mistaken the fluid and bands should be service every 100k miles or reduced down to 60k miles for high speed travel.

I've got a hard time with high MPG at high speed. If you can reach those kind of numbers at 70 MPH you should be well over 30 MPG at a lower speed say 55 or 60 MPH. Which most of the never happens. This why I've got hard time with it. I've asked these people to try a lower speed and the MPG number fall like rock. Yeah like my previous 14 ply (load range G's) tires were lighter than my current 10 ply (Load range E's) tires. These are just slightly heavier. So the ply number does mean it lighter. Remember some tires are cast with heavier lug pattern giving weight to the tire. Both are 235/85 R16's. Like a H/T tire is typically lighter than a A/T or M/T tire again comparing to same sized tire. Then a H/T tire typically has less rolling resistance compared to a A/T or M/T.

Always makes me chuckle to the comments of using a fuel additive to clean things out. Maybe it would be much better to use a better fuel filter. 3 micron is optimal. Fuel additives typically are like pissing in a pond. a 35 gallon tank is 4,480 ounces of fuel so adding 12-16 ounces of anything going to change the cleaning ability? Very doubtful. P0216 error code. I hardly doubt any fuel additive is going to fix a galled up timing piston. Most P0216 codes are caused because the fuel pressure can no longer advance timing properly. The PSG give a small amount of time to reach commanded timing if not reached in that time period the P0216 code is set. It could be a valving issue that maybe the additive ungummed the control valve. Even the valve has a screen to prevent plugging but again shouldn't have anything there if there is a quality fuel filter used. Oh.. This pump did end it's life as a P0216 code.

Lift pump is not keeping up. A wide range of pressure fall is a sign of demand volume being higher than the supply volume. Basically the lift pump can't keep up volume wise so pressure starts to fall. As for error codes what codes are being thrown? Fuel additives tend to mask over the VP44 issues most times and return after the additive is consumed.

No joke. I got to admit I'm way ahead of most being I've not really had any TV for over 15 years. So all these cop shows and high speed racing around I don't even watch that stuff. I get to see the ugly side of helping folks that live in that world of fast cars and movie dreaming. That alone is enough to slow anyone down.