Mopar1973Man

KATOOM you missed something else. You are on the right track... Being I came from the older muscle generation the older Dodge alternator were really stout alternators for their time. Now with the on set of electronic OBDII requirement for vehicles that means more electrical loads. So they increased alternator sizes. So what happens lets say one battery (passenger side) has some failed cells (shorted). So now we've got 140 Amp alternator now compared to 45-60 Amp alternators of the past. So now you have more electrical demand to even start the truck (grid heater and starter), then once it running (grid heater and all electronics), so now the alternator takes a beating so eventually the diodes get hot and start to fail. so now the noise starts to increase. Being today most everything is digital it really hard to see or hear a noise like of the old school. Back in the 60-70's older vehicles with AM radios would pick up on a failed alternator quick. So now back to the bad battery. If the battery on the passenger side is bad it not be detected for high case temperature since the sensor is on the driver side. So the alternator will continue to fight the failed battery increasing its own stress.

Being you are in Idaho Dynamic is just barely on the east side of Washington near CDA, Id. Since you didn't list a city I'm not sure where your at. https://www.google.com/maps/place/8311+N+Glenarvon+Ln,+Newman+Lake,+WA+99025/@45.6012254,-114.1757709,7.17z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x5361e783f9491d67:0x270f79fe56225493

No worse that the truck sitting in my yard with a dead lift pump ZERO fuel pressure and it was driven from east side of Wyoming to west central Idaho with zero fuel pressure. Still starts a runs fine so far, no codes, no problems but really does need a good lift pump. The owner is going to be getting a FASS 150. Just waiting...

Thing I'm worried about and since its a honeycomb styled filter it not capable of self shedding like the BHAF will typically do. so that brings up the problem of life expectancy of this filter in a extreme dust environment vs BHAF.

No way to install of remove the mod without breaking it into 2 pieces. So you make the rear down pipe a removal piece and and it can be easily unscrewed and removed.

Even after you give the Smarty back to TFaoro you'll keep the high idle setting.

There are no pleats as your use to.

Why not just have a shop do the work? Yeah it will cost a little bit o change the bearing and race but it will be better than buying entire front differential.

Maybe you should be here... I get better than 10 years from batteries. Like my batteries that power the house will last over 15 years if I play my card right. As for vehicles all my batteries are lasting at least 10 years. The biggest thing is bein able to do proper maintenance of the batteries once a month.

There is a world of difference between the Smarty for the 24V's vs. Common Rail two totally different animals and abilities.

Depends on your mods and driving style. Some folks I've talked to on the phone fight to make 14-16 MPG with a Smarty. Then again we talk all kinds of different mods that might make or break a good MPG tune.

I've never really run one for very long but... (Thanks Bob Wagner!) For all the folks I've worked with attempting to get MPG's up it extremely difficult because of the way the fuel map is designed and there is no smoke control on the Smarty in other words (boost to fuel) adjustments.

Well there is a way to bench test a Smarty...

P1689 code is more of alternator issues than a lift pump. I would test the alternator for excessive AC noise first. Then dive into the P1689 code article and do a bit of bench testing.

Personally, I would say that Smarty is a good way to kill a transmission. Most tunes are fairly aggressive down low which is one of Smarty key features is the down low fueling. I would of done a full module like Edge or Quadzilla. Why? because they are typically the reverse of the Smarty. Both Edge and Quad you can set a bit of defuel or lag to keep the transmission happy. So for the Smarty I would keep it on a very low level, TQ Man stock, fuel duration low, etc.

Stock fuel housing does pull heat from the coolant passage in the take manifold once the coolant is warmed up. As for the fuel heater I can't say one way or another if it's capable of heating or not. I just know at least with all my minus temps I've never gelled once.

Cheap to just fix it with a few of LarryB's contacts and move on.

I'm waiting for the write up on this...

Just KATOOM missed one thing... I'm already using a Southbend Con OFE clutch. Still using the same old stock hydros no aftermarkets. No problems with engagements or leveraging the clutch. So I can understand getting a big dual disc racing clutch and having issues leverage the pressure plate. Most single disc clutches don't require aftermarket htydros. Tow, haul heavy loads, no issues at all. Bench bleeding is a snap. Still even with sealed unit I would still bench bleed again because of possible air issues or mishandling rare but does happen.

Yeah behind a 5.9L V8 with Mopar Performance PCM. Sad thing is I have zero knowledge of transmission work. So where are you located in Washington? Also what is the average cost to rebuild?

160k miles. OE trans just been serviced and had the governor pressure sensor and solenoid replaced.

Dude you are not making feel good. Think it would hold out for one more trip south for 300 mile trip? Guessimate. Need to pick up a driveshaft for my truck.

So the cause is from what?

@Dynamic I've got to ask a question about 46RE trans in my 96 Dodge 1500. What would cause a trans to hang in 2nd gear, drop to like neutral and then jump into 3rd and behave fine from there on out?

Just remember RV275 (+40) injectors are considered stock for a RV/motorhome Cummins ISB chassis. So now +50 HP is only +10 HP over the stock RV ISB engine... Even those engines used HX35W turbos. The only thing that really has changed is the Edge Comp that now give that extra boost of power. This why I really can't see a huge need for a turbo upgrade.