Mopar1973Man

Myself I use the cheapest pads I can get less metallics the better. I'm still running all OEM brake parts and did my first brake job at 185k. Exhaust brakes really do help a bunch.

No whining here...

I'm running factory 3" with a straight flow muffler and mine is also very spooly sounding as well and can be heard again decelerating get a nice unspool sounds too..

None that I know of. Soldering welds the wires together and there is lower chance of signal loss. Because it would still bind the wires together and the heat shrink would seal the connection. Yes soldering is better but with limited room and access soldering is tough.

Anything that has a zerk fitting. Then the things that don't have zerk fitting I've got a true grease needle. I can carefully insert to the rubber boot and refill boot with grease it fills out not swells. Being you do this method of greasing you can't have any pressure inside the boot other than that grease weeps back out. So far I've still running factory OEM tire rod end and sway bar links.

Typo?? H1C Turbo doesn't have a wastegate also its 21cm2 exhaust housing. HX35 is a 12cm2 with a wastegate.

Bad idea. Good way to create weak ground later. I neer hook anything to the battery. Being that all wiring is typically crimp the acid will find it's way into the copper core of the wire and rot it out. Engine block is my first choice (Best ground). Fender shield is by next choice still good. Never directly to the battery.

Thank you bring that video forward. I knew that Stainless made over 1000 HP on fuel only on VP44.

Old information on my box was only level 1 would do anything even if you increased levels there was no more fuel but the timing map changed. So you can still use all the other setting just that there is no more fuel than what the CANBus can make.

I would say BlueChip or Quadzilla would be the biggest modules that could stress the pump. Bluechip more so... http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/redline_box.html

Best to set the mode of high idle before starting. Then after its starting ramping up you may change mode to MPG or OFF. The only mode you can leave for extended time is 6 CYL this mode will not cancel by coolant temperature. This will keep it from canceling for times like jumping starting another vehicle. But if you start with 6 CYL and then flip to OFF after ramping occurs it will cancel normally with coolant temperature.

I used a manifold bolt. Nothing special...

That's all I did...

Might check the grounds for both the under hood light and the turn signal might find out it's the same one (guessin').

Is the tappet cover plugged up?

...and still blowing that much wow. Modified vs. stock...

Damn, I just found it too...

Post your video of smacking the tree and then peeling out up the mountain road in the snow...

Like myself I can drive with the Edge cranked up on 5x5 I've done it too. It about giving lag to spool up the turbo. Again back to fuel management most on the human side. ISX did it with his p7100 pump and remove the plate and AFC. Again all done on the human side allowing time for the turbo to light up. But for the puppies of the world that plant their boot to the floor at the green light will fight the smoke issue. There was no finger point at you @TFaoro speaking very generally. Now @Me78569 with his turbo controller might be a whole another game changer too.

They always said in the racing world that a slight crankcase vacuum is best it lets nature pull the piston back down. So if you capturing pressure in the crankcase in might be a good idea to increase the pipe size to vent more. There was an old article about using a one way check valve and inserting the crankcase vent into the exhaust stream creating that mild crankcase vacuum.

That's the problem. The pressure falls off very rapidily instead of hold a nice crisp fog pattern it turns more of a splattered mess. Larger the droplet the more to to convert from liquid to vapor ot Bang! Hence why more and more people battle with SAC injectors and controlling smoke because the pressure drop is pretty rapid because of the high volume nozzle. I will admit that SAC is the ultimate injector for power production but not very good for street manners. Where in reverse the small nozzle hold pressure in the line longer and keeps the better fine mist to fog going. Which in turn produces cleaner power better street manners but more limited on fuel flow. This why CR engines are able to do it better because that can preload the cylinder with fuel mist then light it off with the main event allowing for more fuel to placed in the cylinder but still keeping a good fog to mist going. Also CR engine have higher pressures over VP44.

Southbend Con OFE Clutch and Tire Size Reduction (265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16). That's it! The thing is yes you can still tap the wire but you can either turn down the Comp main level or sublevel or both. What kills the clutch is excessive power in RPM band. Best way to learn what happening is grab a bicycle preferably a 10 speed to 20 speed. Now if you jump into too high of a gear will climbing a grade its possible to break the chain or bend the crank depending on leg strength. Yes on my bicycle the cranks are slightly bent. So the same applies here if you modify the fueling so the power comes on later then typically the clutch holds up better. At the same time this why I went down a tire size it adds in acceleration but also allow for excessive power to break the tires loose instead of clutch or input shaft. I'm going to cross 260k mile on the diesel and still to this day never had a 5th ger nut issue!

Yes.

Duration... I wish the term would go away. The fuel pin creates line pressure making the injector fire multiple times as a chattering effect in a sense duration but line pressure it what makes it fire several times. If you could place a pressure gauge on one line and watch VP44 goes from about 4,500 to 18,000 PSI per line. (Not exactly sure the max pressure... close to the 20,000 range) Back in the days of 1st gen it was really common to blow a injector line after turning up the fuel screw and installing a aggressive fuel pin. The lines could handle the pressure break or crack.