Mopar1973Man

Batteries need to be load tested.

I've also had the same conversation with the owner of Pureflow. If I go to replace my 10 year old Airdog 150 I would most likely spend the money with Eric @ Vulcan Performance for a second AirDog 150.

Filter oil? Typically what is used for K&N and washable filters is a spray on oil that typically turned very tacky in few mintues.

The argument between 5th wheel and travel trailer is choice. Like myself, I like to be able to toss the ATV in the bed of the truck on camping trips so 5th wheel is not an option. But some will say yet just buy a toy hauler. Again, the floor plans are not friendly to some people. So its comes down to personal choice. Performance wise towing a properly setup travel trailer will pull just as good as a 5th wheel. There are subtle differences but overall I can get to the spot that a 5th wheel can.

Shouldn't hurt a thing. I would go with it.

Couple of hours tops on a Saginaw box. As for Redhead there is no rebuild kits that I know of. So I don't know what to say there... Opps... Vacuum pump my bad. That is about 2 hours tops as well.

Should of... Most shops don't. I would check the fluid level allow a drop to hang and look at the color a very light amber color is good. Dark brown is bad. Any red color is bad. ATF should not be used.

Most likely the fluid in the power steering needs to be flushed out. That's why its groans. As for the vacuum pump you can rebuild it for about $13 bucks cheap and easy.

Now that's what RVing is all about...

If you working with someone you trust you can get a 2nd person to slowly turn the steering wheel while your feeling steering components for popping motion. Again its got to be someone you trust and be careful with where you place you hand in moving parts. Must have good communication and do everything slowly.

That's the best thing MoparMom is sitting to my right. So I don't have to get on a plane to fix the A/C just got out to the shop. I give discounts for quality beer and booze.

Saginaw boxes are really easy to rebuild and reseal yourself. While your redoing the box you can readjust everything to make it tight again.

Pretty straight forward to rebuild an alternator. As long as the case is good and the bearing spots in the case are good I would go for it. My last alternator I want to do that but the rear half of the case was fried and wasn't holding the bearing properly. I was stuck buying another reman'ed. I like the price on the diodes and parts... I wonder if Nation's Alternators would sell you one of their high amperage diodes? That would surely give you some buffer room. Not to mention I think they are mounted on copper plate to dump heat better.

I'm wondering about draw too. I wonder if the heater itself is drawing more current because of a issue. Unusual to hear a engine load up against a grid heater then huff as it unloads. The only time I've seen that was on the end of my last batteries at 10 years old they were getting a bit weak so it would do that load up and surge some as it unloaded. So I'm agreement with AH64ID just wondering if there is extra load that might belong...

That would be a nice addition to the RV /Trailer article base.

Another suggestion is to look at the frame design closely. That was one of the selling factors on my Jayco with the double square tube frame. Very strong compared to most ultra lites that tend to flex. @Killer223 mention the 7 gallon propane bottles. They are typically listed as 30# propane bottles. Very nice to have the larger bottles. I'm also more so a boondocker than a campground or RV park person. I love the idea of finding a turnout, wide spot, flat piece of ground and set up. Like Killer223 I'm also powered up with solar too so no generator needed, no fuel to drag around, no noise either. @Killer223 mentions the queen bed. I'm lucky there to I've got a true queen in my Jayco. Very comfortable. I was picky about the bed. There is no way I would buy an RV with a bed that I can't sleep in. So that left me look for a "True Queen" and not a "RV Queen". Slides are heavy. Not doubt about that. I've got a fairly large slide but being the Cummis is pulling it no problem. I cross the scale typically between 7,800 to 8,000 pounds depending on how much cargo is in the RV. This weight is with full tank of water and empty holding tanks. I also bought used too. Mine was a purchased back in Nov. 2010 but the RV was a 2000 Jayco Eagle 296 FBS. The only repairs I've done is a set of brakes on the forward axle, bearing packing, fixed a few minor things, and recoated the roof. @Hawkez mentions the outside shower. Mine is really handy for waste dumps. I keep a bar of soap out there and the shower is right near the dump outlet so I can wash up or even rinse my hose if there is no water available at the dump site. That has happened a few times.

Interesting face design. It almost looks photoshop because there is no visible rim to the face.

There is a o-ring. Should be able to re-use it. I'm a bit worried abut that nasty rusted nut.

Ask more questions... We'll teach you.

Won't work. I don't think they will let me wheel my tool box on board.

Typo most likely... 1,2,4 is front group and 3,5,6 is the rear group.

Ah... that's right.

But you going to throw way the CF's often talked about 2WD LO abilities. Everyone what to be able to keep their 2WD LO on the transfer case. Personally, I tend to agree with you the whole CAD axle design is PITA and typically adds more problems to simple system.

Hour and half is my fastest...

Disconnecting for a test start on a cold morning might give you a clue if the grid heaters are pulling that hard... For diagnostic reasons might be what you need to see if that is your problem.