Mopar1973Man

Even in my mess... That was a stock 40A fuse for that circuit. Didn't take it long to let the magic smoke out of the wires...

I kept the needle valve and snubber together for a fall back reason. This way if there is any problems you can shut down the gauge line and keep on truckin'... So consider failure problems.

I'm towing close to 8,000 pound typically. I'm just a small +50 HP injector still running HX35W turbo with no EGT's issues even with 3" straight pipe exhaust (muffled). Take your pick.... I'm just on the west side of the state. Normal forestry grades can be 16% or so. No issues.

Oh... Yeah WOT is different story... Just for fun I'll post today WOT run in New Meadows today... (Notice the red markers noting high mark) Edge Comp (5x3), +50 HP Vulcan Performance Injectors, Straight Pipe 3" (muffled), BHAF...

I hate to say it... But... Now I've done this for several friends watching what I do. I can have a trailer in tow, start climbing a grade with the Edge Comp on 5x3, cruise set for 55 MPH. Now in the middle of the climb all I would do is turn OFF the Edge Comp completely and pyrometer will not change. There will be a slump in power the cruise will apply throttle again to resume holding 55 MPH and you'll find the pyrometer just about unchanged. So no matter what you do the Edge Comp doesn't make the EGT's hotter it still fuels the same amount GPH flow rate wise to hold the same cruise control speed hauling the same weight.

I would say the LED strip is bad and drawing to much amperage. 16 Amp x 12 Volts = 192 Watts. That's like my pair of aircraft landing lights on the front of my truck 100w a piece...

Holy cow it was put in the right way. I don't understand all the sealant smeared into the face.

LOL. I get a chuckle out of this. Funny thing is I working on a 2nd Gen I was assuming had something bent in the control arms. Axle placement is odd. Well I stop by a local wrecking yard and the guys had the same issue could pull the control arms off an axle. Never the less the one side the torched it and still didn't move. Owner said screw it and bought brand new arms. I got luck on this truck all the bolts where lubed with axle grease so they came out easy. I will note that to watch the adjustment cam and make sure they are located properly (left to right side). This truck some had them out of sync left to right. Also during assembly all bolts got a shot of anti-seize.

You must be doing something wrong for inflation. Running load range E's on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 no issues. Very smooth ride even on washboard roads. 43 PSI front and 34 PSI rear.

I can't speak for Smarty. I'm pretty sure that Smarty does not download the entire flash file. That takes quite a bit to do after seeing it done on a 6.7L. So I would have to assume that when returned to stock Smarty flashes with it own update.

Actually ECM. PCM does nothing with the Oil Pressure value. The ECM reads the data and transmits the data on the CCD Network. It's up to the Instrument cluster to listen for the data and display the data as the cluster is programmed to. PCM doesn't have any connection to the sender so it can't process the data.

I love my ISSPro EV2's no amplifier...

OBDII code reader and use the ERASE feature. There is no other way to erase codes. Not even disconnecting the batteries will work.

Something to take notice to... Look at the pictures again the seal is installed backwards. Front side. That the back side lip. Backisde...

Basically the same stuff. I like those too but those are a single shot can. Once the top is punctured your committed to discharging the entire can before you can remove it from your freon hose. That why I like the 5 shots over the singles. For John purpose it would work.

Already done...

Here is my current project. (Not my truck) NAPA OE Control arms and a nice set of Bilstein Shocks. So I would say go back to stock control arms easy to get and they lasted a good long time. This happens to be 2001 Dodge not a 3rd Gen but... Same job...

Not always will you have the pleasure of opening up a system to add dye. At least with the can I do not have to open the system. I can add dye without having to pull a vacuum and wasting exist freon. Might be expensive but lots easy that the bottle you posted. If you system is dry then I would uncouple the low side line at the accumulator and pour it in the line. Couple back up and recharge. Remember I work all makes and models of vehicles with A/C so can stuff is universal and easy.

I known NAPA sell control arms fairly cheap. I'm installing a fresh set on a truck hoping to straighten out a front axle issue.

I had two different shops and myself hunting for my leak like I said mine happened to be the compressor front seal. As for the others I've dealt with like I said a seal kit typically rules out all connections which is a come spot to leak but hard to spot. As for adding dye I buy a 5 shot dye can from NAPA. Just hook it up to the low side hold for about 2 seconds on the trigger. Load it up with freon much cleaner and easier to deal with.

Just go into a NAPA store and ask for them.

This why I typically head for the seal kit first typically like $10 to $15 for seal and not hard to change and might get the leak in changing the seals. Also during change seal check the sizes too. I've seen some seal kit include just a random assortment of o-rings so make sure you don't install too small of a seal. Another common mistake. Make sure to oil all the new o-rings do not install dry. Don't use that leak stop freon. Another weird thing that is rare but is there enough oil in the system. If it running low from leaking then o-rings might not seal up properly. Funny I got called to the local body shop to look at a A/C system on a Infinity. It had been deer wrecked. Body shop had finish his work but need it recharged. I did find a leak in the system which was two fold. First the seals supplied with the condenser where too small and they were installed dry. After replacing with slightly bigger o-ring and pre-oiling the o-rings the was leak fixed. Sad the computer was screwed up and wouldn't start the compressor. Stupid dual zone computerized A/C.

I would take a flat file and smooth the nicks out of the crank then install a speedy sleeve and order a new seal to fit the sleeved crank. Poor man method would be to clean the nick up with a file and lightly sand the crank with light grit make sure there is no burrs then install the seal.

I've got a 5" straight pipe right here in New Meadows. It's so darn loud of a drone at 60-70 MPH you can't even talk in the cab. You need ear plugs. Seriously.

Remember compressed air isn't the same as freon so transferal of heat to cold isn't there. Typically the high side will be in the 150-190*F range with freon depending on high side pressures with freon. I would at this point just stop by a NAPA store and get a o-ring kit and replace all the o-rings on the system. Fairly easy. Just make sure to lube all seals before inserting or re-coupling the line together. Make sure all them click too. Sucks to charge a system to have a unlocked line and blow the freon and oil out of it. Oh.. My long chase on my truck turned out to be a bad compressor seal. After replacing the compressor all was good again. Never seen dye nor could I locate a leak around the compressor.