Mopar1973Man

Damp, mildew and more mildew. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.24525270653619&lon=-116.3321042060852&site=mso&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text#.VuIQFCZVKlM I got to dry out sooner or later. I'm going to start to mildew... Or turn into a frog.

That is technically the same as 265/75 R16. Anywhere on the pressure side most likely. Gear box rebuild kits are about $40 bucks and can be done with most common hand tools. The "wear" can be adjusted out typically as long as no parts are damaged. Yeah because the 3rd Gen is running ATF and also have a heavier front axle weight vs the second gen body. Not to mention belt driven pumps vs. gear box driven. I know there is a RPM difference as well.

Fluid is getting burned because of excessive pumping or flow restrictions. Not using ATF are you? Thing is you not running oversize tire or anything to add stress on the front axle so there should be any other reason but a flow restriction. The only way to add heat is to restrict flow. Also remember most all power steering pump do not have a true filter other than a screen. Again if the debris is already forced into maybe the hydroboost or gear box port and restricting flow then heat is going to be produced. Kind of like saying you got a overheating issues with the engine instead of fixing the thermostat (restricting flow) your going to install a bigger radiator. I still say to find the restriction and the heat issue will vanish.

I would have to say you have a restriction somewhere. Mine never get that hot. It's warm to the touch <140*F. Now I have to ask what kind of fluid are you using? Rather common for folks that ruin a pump to end up pumping debris into a small port somewhere causing a mild restriction. I would highly suggest you resolve the heat issue and not add a cooler till you figure it out. Because most likely you'll still ruin pumps with a flow restriction.

After talking to you on the phone last night kind of nice to put a voice to a picture.

Still have a problem with that... How to you create energy from nothing? It's already been documented that biodiesel is lower in btu content but producing more MPG's? Normal #2 Diesel Fuel at 129,500 BTU's per gallon or 113.64% more than gasoline. B20 Diesel fuel at 127,250 BTU's per gallon or 111.11% more than gasoline (2.53% loss of power) B100 (the worse) at 118,300 BTU's per gallon or 104.17% more than gasoline (9.47% loss of power) Here is showing my local fuels I did this some time ago.. Dark green is summer and light green is winter. ATSM grid.

ECM, PCM and VP44 ground...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent Biodiesel might be better lubricity wise but the BTU content will always be lower. So MPG's wil typically be lower than normal #2 Diesel.

Bathed in gear lube typically.

More... http://www.wnd.com/2016/03/set-up-assassination-alleged-in-fbi-kill-shots/

Let the stabilize in the room temperature for at least an hour. Best to have them both suspended and not being touch by your hands or picking up your body heat. Another way is to place them both in a glass of ice water and test for matching ohms. As for BTS I don't have any information. Sorry.

You have to be well above 40-45 PSI to even be worried about studs. Even with my +50 HP injectors, HX35W turbo and Edge Comp on 5x3 I just barely tap 36-37 PSI worth of boost. Typically well below 35 PSI most times. My boost gauge warning light is set for 35 PSI so if I exceed it it flickers on and flickers right back off.

A/C is use to pull the moisture out of the air on the DEF settings to aid in removing the moisture on the glass. So as the A/C cycles in and out it will freeze up moisture then rapidly thaw out and drain out of the truck. As for the vacuum. Again has no effect on fuel or loading. its a stand alone vacuum pump driven by the gear case. So the only thing vacuum does in pull the vent doors to the proper position.

LOL... A/C compressor. MAX A/C, A/C, Bilevel, Floor-DEF and DEF modes all use the A/C Compressor.

Shouldn't... Vacuum system on the truck is stand alone it doesn't affect the fuel rate. Vacuum pump is driven by the gear case and dump the air in the crank case.

Look like a money and time pit to me. You would have to tear down the cab clean it out. Check for rusting floor board metal. Replace the carpet. Seat are wore out too. Engine look like needs attention too. Transmission is going to most likely need rebuilding. Needs a paint job before the rust sets in if it hasn't already started.

With HX35W turbo and RV275 you a long ways from needing studs... The turbo price is excellent!

Personally I wish companies would quit messing with the fuel. More the filter it, more they change it, the more I start to wonder what is missing in the fuel.

Kind of like my Linux I can encrypt my hard drives and make it secure. Then someone trying to remove my hard drive and reading the data from a second machine. Data is encrypted. Like @Wild and Free said it would open Pandora's Box and allow any law enforcement to sniff your phone device without your permission.

Sorry to say any larger community now has a higher level of crime. I just found out both Idaho and Adams counties both do not allow police officers to patrol like in the past. They are told to report to the county seat and remain there till dispatched. This now increases the response time to my house to over 1 hour. Even my SAR commander is stuck reporting to county seat and having to wait till dispatched. Again puts the response time to Riggins, ID close to 1 hour. So if your smart it time to protect yourselves and not to rely on government agencies to protect you. It's extremely rare now to even see county police officer on the highway anymore.

Again read the monitor and set condition... Temperature rise from intake air heaters is monitored for first 15 seconds of engine operation. DTC may be stored if initial Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor reading is 0-66°F (-17.8 to 18.8°C), Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) and IAT sensor are within 10°F of each other, time between end of preheat and engine run state is less than 30 seconds, engine is cranked for less than 5 seconds before engine starts, preheat is completed before engine starts, post-heat is active and no IAT sensor or intake air heater relay DTCs exist.

Beyond that you might check the battery temp sensor under the driver battery.

Sound like a mismatch between the IAT and Battery Temp sensor. Might try the extra IAT you said you had.