Mopar1973Man

Exactly the same story I've heard too. At the same time this came out years ago EFI Live announced they will not produce a EFI Live programmer for the 24V truck because they are just too old. So everyone waited on bated breathe for Smarty to release UDC programmer for the 24V. Looking at the CR Engine Smarty its impressive tuner.

Thank you @TFaoro!!! I didn't catch his turbo. Yeah then you would be looking for a in-pipe exhaust brake not a turbo mount. It would be best to consider biting the bullet and buying a new unit that works for your application. Here is a vacuum exhaust brake and how it bolts up to the turbo.

Yeah. This is an air pressure driven system you are looking at. The vacuum unit looks differently typically with a larger vacuum can on the exhaust brake valve. So no the compressor isn't for on board air. I wouldn't suggest using it for on board air. 1/4 HP, 1.2 CFM is not a whole lot of air. Looks similar to Viair http://www.viaircorp.com/275C.html

Depends on how much you use the exhaust brake. Being I live in the mountain I'm constantly on and off the exhaust brake coming down long grades towing or empty. So that little compressor would be working hard with me in the driver seat. The only time i touch the brake pedal is to stop from a speed of roughly 20-25 MPH typically. So exhaust brake to me is my primary braking force where my service brakes are my secondary. I highly suggest you consider you mount location carefully. That little compressor will sound like the little portable 12V tire pumps you buy in auto part stores. I would opt for vacuum driven Exhaust brake then it just tee into the existing vacuum on the cowling and there is no extra noises then. Hmmm... Craiglist find or what? What kind of price on it? How old of unit?

When you test the fuel pressure hook up a gauge and then go drive the truck. We need to know idlng pressure then WOT pressure at highway speed. Still need to know if there is any error codes too...

I'm not sure about PacBrake. Some version had double valves and some are single valves. Personally it would drive me crazy listening to a little compressor running nearly constantly for the amount I use mine locally. I would look at the main butterfly valve and be sure its in good working order and the butterfly is not loose in the pivot.

Those are sweet little lathes you got there. Small duty but still can do quite a bit of work. All metal work is done slowly anyways.

Ummm... No pictures...

Towing my 8,000 pound, 31 foot long RV I get between 11-14 MPG. Check a few things? What's your fuel pressure like? Do you have any error codes? Just because the light not on doesn't mean it clear of codes. It can still get error codes and not trip the light. I would love to do it but I'm sure you are way to far to drive here. Most of those additives are junk anyway and do nothing but mask over the issue. You have to remember if you want a clean fuel system use a good quality filter (3 micron). Thing is most do get is you got a tank that is 4,480 ounces of fuel and dumping 8-16 ounces of any product in the tank is like pissin in a pond. More injector cleaner don't even clean an injector even if you soak it in 100% of the product. Most of these products increase cetane which mask the issue but also reduce the BTU's of the fuel.

Maybe... Just that Smarty has had poor fuel to boost ratio control for very long time.

(Speaking strictly 24V programmers and tuners here) $865.00 for Smarty Touch... Still only a 65 HP tuner. Just add a fancy touch screen and gauges. $649.00 for Smarty Programmer... vStill only a 65 HP tuner. $559.20 for Edge Comp 120 HP tuner... $597.81 for Quadzilla Adrenaline (iQuad) 180 HP tuner... Hmmm... So what would be so great about tuning is it still limted to 65 HP and going to most likely be high in prices vs. modules that produce way more power. Stacking... Just stacking cost too.

Big question is will it turn out to be another high dollar price tag for 60-65 HP tuner?

As for the boost leak I've seen it myself where a single manifold bolt blew out and would drop to 8-10 PSI and creates a smoky run, high EGT's at the OP is talking about.

LOL. They been talking about if for 3-4 years now. I gave up waiting for it long time ago.

I've heard the rumor a long time ago. Still waiting for it to come out.

Yes. First off the boost bolts are very thin hollow bolts. So it more common to see either boost leaks around a boost bolt area. Then find some that fights the leak and break the boost bolt off in the hole because attempting to seal boost leak by adding more torque. The other problem is boost bolt puts the tubing on top and in the way of most valve and injector work so it more likely to snag or break the tubing now. The port in the manifold is 3/4" NPT so you need to find a bushing or 2 bushing to reduce from 3/4 to 1/8 NPT. Once you got it reduced down then you can install your tubing so it runs down and curls back up to the cowl heading more to the driver side fender. This allows for working around the MAP and IAT sensor without much issues.

Here is the kicker. If you order RV275 most of the time a guy runs around back grabs 6 random injectors and tosses them in a box and ships them to you. When I order my +50 HP from Vulcan Performance Eric put the extra effort into them and pop tested and flow match them for me. So there is a bit better quality in these +50 HP injectors versus say an off the shelf RV275 injector. So if you discuss it with the injector vendor and ask for the extra effort be put into the injector set it will net you better out come. As for MPG's mostly remained the same. Since the price of fuel fell to $2 a gallon I gave up the hypermiling. So my MPG's are actually lower like hover around 19-21 MPG typically empty but weather is still rather cold up here yet.

I tend to agree. I would look for boost leaks first thing and also inspect that turbo for damage or wastegate issues.

Something with a 1/8 NPT bung.

Well geez... What good is it to put a pan drain in if I can't install a temp sender?

What's the thread on the plug? I can see the 1/2-20 but the plug has be something else?

Link please! I'm looking for this fitting...

Might want to talk to our "Site Transmission Guru" he does sell kits for rebuilding transmissions and upgrade kits. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/ I just got done having him build my little 46RE and he did a awesome job. Worth taking the moment and talking to him.

@JAG1 Your a 2nd Gen 24V vs. 3rd Gen CR. Ratios are a bit different since they have pre-injection phase.

Any 2 cycle oil will work. Preferred to be petroleum and not synthetic. 200:1 ratio is normal for CR engines. I highly suggest you at least get a boost and pyrometer gauges. Rail pressure would be a good too but you can get that with a live data tool like OBDLink LX or similar.