Mopar1973Man

No. It not working it should lock and stay locked. Sign it's low on Freon. Lo side pressure drops below 25 PSI it will cycle out to prevent freezing. So you have to increase lo side pressure so you see about 35 PSI. Every time the compressor cycles out the heated reverses flow putting heated Freon back in the evaporator which produces warm discharge from the vent.

So now you have to verify the front axle is actually unlocked. The front driveshaft should spin freely. If so the driveshaft shouldn't be spinning must on the highway.

Do you have manifold gauges? Could you tell me you hi and lo side pressures. Also is your compressor cycling lock and unlock?

Here is find... I know this is brief but running 4th gear at 55 MPH will actually drop the transmission temperature as low as125*F. Outside temperatue is 68*F and not towing trailer. Engine load average was12 to 15% and 30 to 35HP at the flywheel. 5 PSI boost and EGTs roughly 550*F giving me roughly 25 to 27 MPG. Data is sure handy...

I'm back out on the road towing the RV for my other job. I can tell you for sure that transmission is very much weather based being this trip it's 60*F off and on rain showers in barely making 150*F for a high.

Do you have a vacuum motor on the passenger side rear of the axle or not? Basically CAD axle has a vacuum motor that slides a coupler ring between the inner and outer shafts of the passenger side shaft to bind them together.

I've seen a Ford 6.0L damaged from ether here locally. The rancher didn't know better. The ether lit off and exploded in the air filter box and caught fire. Needless to say it split boost boots, burned the air filter box, and miscellaneous wiring. The little I've used ether I've very careful to disable any grid heaters or glow plugs first thing. Then after that the amount spray is quick blast lasting less than a second. It takes very little ether to make a diesel start. The only other time I've used it is for troublesome diesels that refuse to prime so again same thing disable the heater system and very very small blast of ether.

1999 Dodge Ram "should" be a CAD axle. So like TFaoro said there should be any vibration from the front drivel ine if the CAD is truly unlocked. Like my 2002 is a non-CAD axle and shaft spins all the time.

That's easy. Rock Wall... Just back the passenger side up till about 16* to 17* degrees and pull the plug.

I just went out and measured the angle I've got to get to open the fill plug for checking I measured at least 16.3 to 16.5 degrees of angle to full at the bottom of the fill hole. This is about 18" inches of lift. I'm sure that sensor is well submerged. (5 full quarts in the case)

Highway speeds tend to be cooler while mountain roads, and city driving tends to be slightly warmer. I'll have another towing trip soon that I'll have to do so I'm going to modify my driving habits a bit and see what happens. As for the syncro's there doing fine. No grinding of gears. Last check of the fluid is was still a clear amber color. I've got to jack up the passenger side of the truck quite a ways to keep from spilling the fluid. So I know the fluid is over the sensor yet. If your wondering what the syncros look like. Here is the carbon fiber part of the syncro ring. Might be radiant heat from the exhaust pipe and lack of cooling wind under the truck coupled with towing a trailer and launching from traffic light to traffic light putting power to at least 3 different gears then unwind against the exhaust brake. Seems like clock work get to the city limits and get up to 55-60 MPH towing the trans temp always falls right back off. Still 190*F isn't bad... I'm not even worried yet.

1989 to 2002 are exempt for this issue. The problem is when the "A" hole (keep a clean mind guys) is damaged by fuel debris and no long seal properly so the injector tend to remain open anytime there is rail pressure. So the hard starting is because the solenoid valve is not closing allowing to build rail pressure. There is other things like crack nozzle, pintle damage anything that would cause a fuel leak into the cylinder or high return flow rates to the tank from the injectors. Most shops will use a block off cap to find the bad injector and replace just the one. I just happen to have a block off cap too.

That's why we need more people taking time to research different shops and people and give reviews of service. This way other can find different shop all around the US. I can tell you that Dynamic has a business relationship with Dave Goerend (Goerend Transmissions) http://www.goerend.com/

I've got a 05 Dodge sitting in my shop that I'm pulling the engine out for injector damage. For sure got one cylinder with low compression which you can hear when you start it up. All I can say is park that truck till you can have those injectors tested and replaced. Because like this owner he's done the damage now after saying is was a bit hard starting, start to knock a bit, and drove close to 180 miles on a bad injector(s). At this point the owner doesn't want any band-aids being this is a long haul rig and need to be tip top shape and bullet proof. So he's willing to put the money into being rebuilt. So as for the OP tell him to quit driving the truck or he'll be rebuilding the engine.

Another trailer run has been done. Average outside temperature was 85-87*F and towing the RV this time. Normal average towing temperature was about 165-175*F till I hit a 6% grade then it rose up to 185*F but coming back down the back side of the grade it quick cooled off and resumed the old normal range again. I will note that towing in city environment does promote higher transmission fluid temperatures most like because of the constant starts and stops and very low wind. Kind of like towing up into the forest low speeds don't provide enough cooling. I did see a max of 190*F crawling around on city streets. Again as soon as I got back up to 55-60 MPH it cools right back off again. So far I've not seen anything that makes me jumpy as of yet. Even my 46RE transmission in my 96 Dodge Ram 1500 reaches 190*F easy crawling around on the city streets that's ATF+4 and it even got a cooler and not even towing a trailer. As for NV4500 towing 8,000 pound RV at 55-60 MPH or city street driving and topping out at 190*F without a cooler and running 50 SAE transmission fluid I'd say it doing just fine. I have say I welcome the fact of seeing transmission fluid temperatures in the 160-170*F range. I'm noticing that MPG's are up slightly more with warm transmission fluid temperatures where daily driving locally where the fluid never even breaks the 100*F mark it tend to promote more drag in the drive line reducing MPG's slightly. Also it a good thing to get to heat to the oil to make sure the moisture is cooked out. I'm going to be looking at was to blocking the cold wind in the winter time to see about keeping some of the warmth in the gear lube in the bitter cold. So far with summer heat and my driving style I'm not seeing a reason for any kind of cooler.

Seriously if you have the way to go up to see this great guy I would. Stand there and watch him rebuild a transmission is awesome. He'll explain everything about the transmission. I actually understand what he said because of being there and watching all the steps of the rebuild and watching him test everything. As for catching something like that I'm green horn yet with automatics so I would of most likely made the same mistake. Knowing there is a valuable resource like @Dynamic around is awesome. Thank you sir for all your knowledge and expertise in the transmission world.

Did you flush the power steering system before installing the new pump? Hopefully you doing just flush debris from the damaged pump into the new pump. The blue wire should have +12V with the key on. The green wire should be a variable ground form the regulator. Is the regulator bolted to clean ground metal? Where is bolted at excessive heat or excessive cold will offset the charging abilities. I would suggest you consider having the PCM repaired and only use this for a band-aid till the PCM is repaired.

I tend to agree time to get those injector tested and replaced. If one fails replace them ALL. Way too many time I see some replace just the damage injector(s) to end up doing damage to the engine because another injector failed and casued the damage.

If all your holding tanks are plastic then you can use rock salt. That will prevent freezing in mild weather. RV anti-freeze might be safe alternate but it doe freeze solid too it just doesn't expand.

Yes its a two person job.

It will defuel typically before it throws the code. It will throw the code if it can't control the boost with defuling alone. P0234 code should pop if so. Like I said it will defuel before it throws the code.

If you got to crack an injector line yet you still chasing a air leak issue. You might have to prime every thing up and pressureize the fuel tank with compressed air and see if anything leaks.

Going into a more permanent solution would be to build a pole barn over the RV to keep blowing wind and snow off the roof. This will improve the ability of heating the RV as well. You could insulate the pole barn again with square hay bails. Then you have better access around the RV also if you want to take the RV some where you can just open the barn doors and pull it out. Bad part of enclosed barn is it might make you stir crazy not seeing daylight or outside. Some folks don't have a problem with this and other can't stand the idea...

If the RV is not being moved then I would level it all out and then stack hay bails all the way around the RV. This will insulate the under side then. Now you can plug in a heat lamp in the area near the holding tank to keep them from freezing. A common method of RV owners here in the area. I've seen some do foam panels, hay bails, wood panels, vinyl skirts, etc. Hay bail is going to provide the best insulating factor. Now if all the hook up are under the RV the chances of freeze up are pretty low. The hay bail method tend to hold up well even with -20 to -30*F weather. Just the propane and electric bills are high for RV at those temperatures.

Some how I would be looking for a good machinist to create a but repair. The fact of always removing the intake horn all the time the last thing I would want to do is constant fight with a specialty nut to hold the air horn on. I would see if any one would have the ability of repair for this.