Mopar1973Man

Funny... Both are list and both have the proper fitting plug for the field lead.

Either will work.

Watch this video...

FAIL... Anything over 0.1 AC volts is a fail... 0.010 to 0.030 Normal good alternator working normally. 0.050 Marginal. Some issue are reported typically and random in nature comes and goes... 0.100 FAILED. Diodes are shot and allowing too much AC voltage through. Beyond the 0.1 and up you start to see electronics failures like ECM, PCM, or VP44 more commonly.

Ok. Another one that happen this winter. I do my nightly stoking of the fire and cut it back really low. I got up in the middle of the night to the smell of smoke in the house. Run down stairs to the stove the smell isn't there. Come back up stairs you can smell the smoke. What was happening we had a wind event in the canyon that was rolled the smoke down on the north side of the building and blowing in around the little bit of a gap under the door. So at 2-3am its a bit spooky to go back to bed smelling smoke in the house. It might not be a chimney issue but could be wind driven back into the building through cracks or gaps.

Timbo APPS are not lifetime. Not that I know of. Typically most just release the throttle and wait a few second and go right back to working. Basically if the rheostat wears and the voltage goes out of range the ECM ignores the signal hence the dead pedal and once the signal is normal again then the throttle works again. So if your having this issue then its time to resolve it. I'm the same way. I'm always at least hundred miles from anywhere and without cell service. I've got my old stocker in the shop but I don't carry any parts in the truck. I don't go into panic mode and ton of spare parts and tools in the truck. I can say in 261k miles I've never been left stranded or had to tow 2002 Dodge home. Now the 1996 Dodge did eat a PCM and required a tow. Things like this do happen. Like I've got a bail out bag behind my seat. Truck dies I attempt to figure out if I can repair if not the grab the bail out bag and do the "Heel Toe Express" to safety or help.

Been here for 25 years and heating solely on wood heat. No propane, nature gas, or electric heat in the houses. Even this amount of smoke doesn't bother me...

They still wear out. There will always be some sort of contact to resistance strip out that that you have a open circuit. So no matter Stock APPS, Timbo APPS or magnetic APPS you will always complete the circuit with a contact of some sort. This circuit has to be the same no matter what you use.

LOL. I got to update nice to have your own Dyno. I had to expand the "Torque" gauge I finally buried it at 1000 foot pounds. Also added Speed in the corner. Also expanded the GPH gauge... The green zones I added to make it easy on the eyes to spot normal zones at quick glance. The HP and TQ gauges is normal stock power beyond that is extra.

Got an air leak for sure. Injector o-ring good? Crossover tube o-rings good? Pop test the injectors. Do you have any pissy injectors. Banjo a the back of the head wet? Suction side leak? Those never leak out. You have to pressurize the fuel tank to get it to leak.

Something is wrong. There should be no no health problems burning wood. You must have a cracked stove case or venting smoke into the house. I've have had stoves in the pass that cracked the case near the chimney. If your chimney is plugging up then smoke will back up into the house. I don't use damper for this reason either.

Also a Timbo's user too... No issues also cheaper at $160. As for rheostat its actually a carbon track and the wiper blade eventually will wear through the carbon offsetting the voltage.

Fooler is turned off. Close enough to my target optimal range. (Green zone)

Were all human... We all make mistakes. Great suggestion. I didn't even think about that...

Sounds right so far. Typically the probes touched together should cancel out RF noise/energy.

Use the tool to install the seal into the gear case cover while its off the gear case. Now place the plastic guide back in the seal. Now slide the plastic guide and the gear case cover back on at the same time. Once in place now pull the plastic guide back out. Speedy sleeve is installed before putting the case cover back on.

I did that too until the day the main power lead coming in the cab of my 1973 Charger got over loaded from a bad blower motor and I used a bigger fuse with a gum wrapper. Needless to say the magic smoke can out of the wires under the dash and left me stuck on I84. I did get going again my Fluke meter wires did the trick till I got home in California again.

Hmmm. Amount of error? @Me78569 Do you have anything to add that might help?

Touch the probes together to check for ZERO. The probes are picking up RF energy in the air like antenna...

That looks right 0.016 AC volts.

You want to set the range for 2V or less scale. 0.000 should be what you want to see.

I just got hit by an IRS scammer. The phone number to watch for 334-435-2376. It will NOT identify as the IRS on the caller ID. Then a digital message will play about IRS pressing charges against someone at this number. Just be aware of these scammers!

Better yet. Do it yourself save on the labor charges and have the satisfaction of knowing it was done right.

I love getting you wound up first thing in the morning...

On Timbo's APPS you want to adjust the stop pin (idle) in till it rises then back out till it stop falling in voltage then add another 1/2 turn to the screw for slack.