Mopar1973Man

Well I was on the right path then wanting to pull the front two frame mounts and prying the fender apart. Apparently there is enough room to lift the engine up and clear the oil pan to the cowl of the cab. I've only got a few more things to do and the hoist comes in.

Easy way to check for vacuum issues to leave the fuel cap loose.

Head stud a recommended by most engine builders. As for fire ring or o-ring that is required for more of a racing setup like TFaoro with high boost and twin turbos to prevent gasket blow out. I'm sure Ron will answer all your questions. You can call and talk to Ron he's the owner. http://www.northwestmotormachine.com/about.html

Just if I can get the local insulation guy to blow in the attic for me... I've ask several times but keeps putting me off.

Show look like this when done... All Parker Push Lock and JIC fittings.

Why not travel 125 miles north to my shop and we'll do that conversion with tools and a shop to work in. Rattlesnake is pretty good eating if it cooked right. Taste just like chicken. Yes... I've eaten rattlesnake before...

No. Sorry... Here is the open field to the left of Catfish (public ground). https://www.google.com/maps/@44.2638779,-117.1267964,446m/data=!3m1!1e3 Here is the one I stayed at last. https://www.google.com/maps/@44.2564288,-117.1395657,446m/data=!3m1!1e3 One more small area before the Interstate. https://www.google.com/maps/@44.2572891,-117.1685087,442m/data=!3m1!1e3

I've only got the one load so far I need another 4 trailer loads and still split about 8-9 cords worth before winter. Time is ticking away...

Absolutely... The all around safest solution is replace the entire head. I found a wonderful machine shop in Caldwell, ID that does CNC cobalt valve seats for Cummins head and has the tooling for doing fire rings. That was half of my last trip was it interview this machine shop and see what kind of quality for the owner of the truck I'm working on.

Same here still burning wood as well. I've got less than 1 cord remaining of split firewood. Look at the bottom of the picture and current weather as of this morning when I posted. I figured out a way to add METAR data from NOAA's web site to my conky panel on my desktop.

AirDog pump are fine now its just there crappy plumbing solutions with the quick connects. FASS I like the plumbing but hate the huge size of the pump very difficult to hide.

To confirm this... http://freebeacon.com/issues/idaho-becomes-ninth-constitutional-carry-state/

I'm thinking about the aluminum and exhaust clamp idea as well just for sake of radiant heat from the exhaust on slow speeds and hill climbing in the forest. As for exhaust pipe wrap / jacket or fast coolers I'm not going that far. What little summer heat I've got to deal with and so far with the monitoring the transmission temperature I've not seen anything to panic about for transmission temperatures.

Some of us don't have RVs that can operate in temperatures below freezing mark because of plumbing issues and design. Like mine if the temp falls below 32*F I'll have frozen pipes by morning being the water line for the bathroom leave the living area travel outside below the slide to reach the bathroom so operating at temps below 32*F are not going to happen for me. I do know of the trip to Newman Lake, WA to see Dynamic up there I sure did suck up the propane at temps close to the freezing mark. That is very rare for me...

Ohhh... Since I know her I'll make sure you get relocated next to the dumpster then... LOL! (jk of course...) MoparMom is getting well versed in boondocking and enjoys it more than RV parks now. True 2-3 days of boondocking then we agreed that you need to stay in a RV park for a good shower and not have to miser the water and power. If JAG1 doesn't bring the steak and lobster MoparMom might not take you back out for milkshakes again...

I'm curious if this radiator support cross brace has to be removed to remove the engine? If so how do you remove this cross brace? I've got the 8 bolts already lose in the picture. When I remove then the brace will slide a bit both ways but not enough to remove it.

That does hold true. Any gear other that direct 1:1 does produce heat either in reduction or overdrive. Overdrive gear does produce the most because of the constant high power (HP/TQ) against it. Where I think that even lower gears do produce some heat but not like overdrive at high speeds like 65 MPH and up. Like with my pass example of towing up hill again laying more power against the gears towing up hill with a lack of cooling wind. The lower gears I would say produce heat because of lack of cooling and typical driving launching from light to light you laying quite a bit of power to the lower gears towing but lacking in the wind to provide good cooling of the transmission. Once the transmission is heated up it takes several miles of 4th gear running at 55 MPH to bring it down. So city driving while towing will produce transmission temps solely for the reason of radiant heat from the exhaust and the lack of cooling wind. To be able to drive in direct gear and be towing 8,000 pound RV and barely make 140-145*F is really good. I was shocked on how long it took for the transmission to even heat up.

I'll be there... Who knows I might boondock it down the road from there. I found a few good spots for boondocking large areas for folks. There is one lot just west of Catfish Junction and then another just down the road about a mile if need be. All the times I've been to Catfish Junction the place always had a open slot. Never crowded... Might be for thatr event though... What? I don't do such things...

To this day I still watch many people constantly looking for upgraded front steering parts attempt to make it stronger or better. Here I sit still with 264k miles still got my stock OEM steering box without a leak yet. Still running stock OEM tie rod ends yet and the the steering is still tight as the day I bought the truck new. Never upgraded nothing, no braces, no fancy parts, etc. The only thing I've replaced was track bar and ball joints that's all. Still travel quite of forestry roads and hauling trailers. Just posted this to make you think a bit...

I'm running a Southbend Con OFE and its holding close to 400 HP and 1000 FT/LBS. Very good street manner and not grabby at all. Sad part is the clutch holding up to the abuse but the main shaft of the transmission broke. http://www.southbendclutch.com/13-1.25.html

Here is your answer... https://wei.sos.wa.gov/county/lewis/en/currentelection/Pages/Measure-594.aspx The Effect Of The Proposed Measure If Approved This measure would apply the background check requirements currently used for firearm sales by licensed dealers to all firearm sales and transfers where at least one party is in Washington. Background checks would thus be required not only for sales and transfers of firearms through firearms dealers, but also at gun shows, online, and between unlicensed private individuals. Background checks would be required for any sale or transfer of a firearm, whether for money or as a gift or loan, with specific exceptions described below. Background checks would be required whether the firearm involved is a pistol or another type of firearm. Violations of these requirements would be crimes. As said in the article... No one was hurt and no stores were looted. Between 1,000 and 3,000 lawful gun owners showed up openly armed at the state capitol in Olympia, Wash., on Saturday to defy the newly passed gun control law, I-594.Organizer Gavin Seim made the extraordinary nature of the rally very clear, "This isn't just a protest. We are here to openly violate the law. Attendees publicly transferred their guns to each other in violation of I-591's background check provisions, and some even bought and sold guns just a few feet away from law enforcement. A fire pit blazed throughout the rally, and at the conclusion, gun owners lined up to burn their concealed weapons permits. A petition was circulated affirming gun owners refusal to follow I-594, which ended with, "We pledge our blood. We will not comply." As the RSVPs in advance of the rally grew to over 6,000, the police, most who probably detest I-594, decided not to enforce the law. In other words people of Washington are tired of Gov't have to do background check on who you are and if you legal to purchase or hold a concealed weapons permit.

Its still a air leak issue. I seen the brief lag of the pressure at key on. I would consider finishing your line project then check all other seals like the o-ring on connector tubes and any remain banjo bolts seals.

Please go over and read this about Washington state and civil disobedience. http://idahoturbodiesels.com/topic/11023-felony-civil-disobedience-hell-yeah/

Ok... I learned a bunch this last trip. I can tell you that transmission temperatures are based on speed and drag. Like the first trip I was completely full throttle attempting to hold speed limit as much as possible. This trip I back off and made a more relaxed trip out of it. Like my previous trip I had ttransmission temperatures as high as 190*F. This trip only barely made 160*F once. The rest of the time I was able to hold it at 145-150*F most of the way. No the trailer didn't get lighter. But I used 4th gear (Direct 1:1) much more when I was able to. Approximately 20-40 HP less and nearly 100 foot pound less power required to keep the pace at 55-60 MPH vs 65 MPH. Look at Jun 12 and jun 13 as the first trip down and back. Then Jun 16 and Jun 17 on this down and back. As power is increase and applied heavier to keep pulling against wind drag the MPG falls and the transmission temperature rises. When a device is used inefficiently then the device usually will create more and more heat with more it push outside its normal operational realm. So to test this thought I ran a few area in 5th and set the cruise at 65 MPH sure enough the transmission reacts and slow starts rising. Now when traffic and road conditions permitted I would drop down to 4th (direct 1:1) and set the cruise at 55 MPH. Sure enough the temperature would fall and then settle at 145-150*F. Compared to last trip touching 190*F and settling about 170*F or so. The above MPG logs proves that wind drag and speed can and will produce heat in everything from the engine all the way back to transmission and differential. Between watching the tablet with my torque, horsepower, load, and MPG I've learn quite a bit on how to gain that extra little bit for towing a RV weighing in at close 8,000 pounds.

I know that some members will suggest you consider South bend clutch. Talk to @Dripley about his experience.