Mopar1973Man

There is a dump port on thee valve body that dumps the pressure to lock up the clutch. So if th port is too big then it dumps too quickly. Dynamic should have a custom valve body plate you can replace yours with.

All I can say is talk to him...

Basically be limited to main level 1 and 2. But have the sublevel of control for fuel where the Edge EZ doesn't have.

I would look at the injectors as well. Poor functioning injector can create a poor spray pattern and not ignite the fuel very well either making it rough. Excessive return flow could also bring rail pressure down making all the injectors fire poorly. The average life span of injectors is about 150k miles and most vendors would suggest having them bench tested. Rail pressure gauge or a scan tool that can read rail pressure is very handy. I would suggest OBDLink LX being its on sale now. Good quality scan tool and cheap in price.

I guess I'm behind the times...

I try to advise people to stay away from washable air filters. I've got a truck here that might of ruined the turbo from a badly plugged up Afe washable air filter. It pulling oil in the compressor side of the turbo now. Take the main level as high as possible. Then use the sublevel to control smoke. 1-3 are defuel modes. Sublevel is accessed by holding the power button down for 3 seconds. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost Sorry that's backwards. More fuel is always going to produce more heat. It the boost pressure that brings the EGT's down. Daily driver truck need a good quick spooling turbo. Cooper tires are nice aggressive tread but I hate to say it they are very heavy for rotational mass even in a stock 265/75 R16 size. Roughly about 20 pounds heavier than a standard Mitchellin LTX 265/75 R16. It will increase EGT's just from stop and go traffic getting that extra 80 pounds of rotational mass rolling. I had a set of Cooper STT myself and experienced the same thing end up getting rid of them.

I'm sold on Dynamic as a rebuilder. Bit far for you unless you crate it up and ship it to him. I just spent Monday watching him rebuild my 46RE transmission for my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500.

The only thing I would do to the Edge EZ is set the jump on +65 HP setting. Then be sure to seal the ends of the Edge EZ so water doesn't get into the circuit board.

After spending better than 12 hours listening to Jon on how everything works inside and watching everything being tested using air. I do understand about the plate there is a slot in the of the separator plate and the notch is too wide for triple disc torque converter. Jon has laser cut modifed plates for the valve body. Might as him about changing the plate or sending your valve body to him.

Nice trailer. Interior shot? Battle scars are set in now. Mine were pre-installed by the previous owner.

I know a lot of people have to transmission work at home on their shop floor without a lift. I wish I would of shot pictures on the way out. What you need is 2 cam buckle straps and 2 ratchet straps. On the way down you put both cam buckle strap across under the transmission on at the front and one at the rear. Hooking to the frame one on left and on right side. Once the transmission is loose wiggle a bit and allow it to be cradled in the straps. Single man can hold like the rear strap ease it down a few inches and then swap. Now the photo here I used the ratchet straps to lift it back up but doubled up with cam buckle straps. So again ratchet strap can be reset while laying in the cam buckle strap temporarily and then you can go up some more.

Edge EZ is only a +60, 63 or 65 HP Edge Comp and Edge Juice are both 120 HP. Edge Comp is half the price of the Edge Juice and way less toyz. No touch screen, no alarms, no limits, etc. But the same software. All the extras on Juice are not performance enhancing just eye candy (touch screen), annoyance (alarms) and defueling features (limits).

It could be a gear issues internally inside the gauge. I would contact ISSPro for support.

Sad to say Moog is not doing so hot any longer.

I'll do a quick video on my fuel pressure gauge. It wiggles around constantly.

Double check your wire tap and MAP sensor connection. I've had both do this. I've had my jam nut come loose on the Stealth Plate and making a weak connection for the wire tap. Then I just had a bad connection on the MAP sensor plug that caused a random up / down surge of power.

Glad you figured it out...

Typically that is because a failed power steering pump typically that has push debris all through the system. Then they replace the hydrobooster without flushing and then end up with more debris in the new hydrobooster. Remember these power steering systems don't have a filter. So any debris has to be flushed out first thing before putting the new hydrobooster and/or power steering gear box into service.

Don't assume. I've seen people blow up axles for that same comment. "It was just serviced xx k miles ago". So are you sure it's filled up completely? Did something start to fail anyways? (Any metal glitter in the oil) What's the brake fluid look like? Is the calipers binding up? The only way to check that you have to pull the calipers off the truck and disassemble them and check the piston clearance without seals in place. The pistons should drop to the bottom of the bores without being pushed.

All I can say is look at the hydrobooster first. As for the pedal slow to return it hard to say I've paid any attention to that being I so rarely even press that pedal till I'm in a big city. Exhaust brake gets used quite a bit. I know from bleeding out my system now and then that the full stroke return is slow but normally the usage stroke is so short I don't notice any travel maybe 1/8 to 1/4" of pedal throw.

Jumping back over there...

As for OBDLink. I found the Cummins ISB Volumetric number to be correct. Stock volumetric efficiency is 63% and you would "add" the percentage of offset to this number. Then as for other information, I'm working on displaying fairly accurate horsepower and torque numbers. So far its seems to be rather close. As for trip data I've ran into a snag that is rather depressing so some reason the App is failing out and shutting down. No error per say just "Sorry it's no longer working" message. So I'm working with the techs to see if I can resolve this.

Actually, I suggest the same thing but I highly suggest the cheating and going to the house for the things you forgot. Then I suggest buying another set of whatever for the RV. We are now down to just packing clothes and electronics. Most of the other stuff is already packed in the RV. So saying we are going to leave is just a few hours of packing and straightening out around the house and locking up. We normally don't bother with food we pick that up on the way usually hitting a larger city store and getting something we normally can't have. As for the RV I highly suggest doing it without hook ups that way you understand the capacity of water, holding tanks, and power. You learn extremely fast what you can and can't do.

First question are you using any programer like a Smarty? Smarty and other flash tuner make a trainwreck out of calibratin being that it fools the fueling tables. With normal boxes like Edge or Quadzilla there is no issues on calibration. As for ScanGauge II Diesela is correct. As for Idle it shows ZERO is correct. As for calibration I do it on long trip when I'll fill twice in one day. Where there is mostly highway running and very little idle time. Idling or high idling will skew the outcome and calibration. Like my settings are: Diesela, Fillup Offset 14.5%, Speed +1% Typicall right on the money.On the 1996 its Gas, Fillup Offset 233%, Speed 0%. Now to shift gears I've been working the OBDLink LX dongle and it is just as accurate too. JUst you got to start from Volumetric Efficiency of 63% and add to it the offset to get calibration.

160k on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500... Dynamic Transmission Rebuilt now. I'm dying to get it installed. Custom modified valve body, and lots of other modifed parts put into the trans.