Mopar1973Man

From what I know that oil temperature follows coolant temperatures pretty close. So most people in the winter have issues with Cummins engine even getting warm enough to produce heat in the cab. Personally I would expect a bigger following from folks in the southern states. Now if you got a talent for aluminum and welding I would add blow tubes there the bottom edge of the pan so air could blow through cooling the oil. Like what some of the deep pans for transmissions do.

Most likely on the bottom of the APPS sensor.

Here is a 6 month old Moog... http://imgur.com/r/justrolledintotheshop/R4d3rys

All tuners installed on a stock powered truck are typically safe for the engine. Just automatic transmission owners I would suggest talking to Dynamic for upgrades. Where things get sticky is how big of a injector you use in conjunction with the tuner. Now your having to worry about hurting the truck.

I think I just got one in the mail... Let me go look at the box today when I get down to the shop.

Lead oxide will decrease electrical flow. You can have the biggest batteries you can stuff in the tray but will get very little power through a oxidized terminal end. Also as the lead oxidizes its no longer soft it turn brittle like you seen and breaks easy just putting tension on them.

Now after doing service work to resolve power issue on a Edge Juice I have to say I personally don't recommend the Edge Juice. For what little you gain for toys, alarms, limits, and all the wiring and tiny screen. Not worth the extra $500 over Edge Comp. Sad but true the Edge Comp and Edge Juice have the same tunes just the screen, alarms and limits, and all the little toys on the Juice just not worth it. Edge Comp has 8 wires. MAP sensor, CANBus, wire tap, +12V power and ground that it. Way easier to install and way easier to diagnose. Like I had a conversation with a friend last night on the phone. Edge Juice is basically a digital gauge you'll find you eyes lingering longer looking at the gauges. Where good old fashion analog gauges you tend to never look at directly because out of your edge of your vision you can seen the needle position and movement its not till needle positions are in bad position that you watch closer or diagnostic purposes.

Not the way I had imagine it...

Agreed. Typically just snug them up a bit more. If still weepy then look at the cones in both fittings for damage or debris caught in between the two cones. This will cause a sealing issue and might be the cause of the weep too.

I've got a 2005 Dodge Ram Cummins that needs to be rebuilt. There is for sure cylinder/piston damage in one hole. So where is a good source of re-manufactured engines or anyone know of good machine shop possibly in Idaho area?

You should be able to check axle joints if you jack up the front axle. As long as the axles have no tension on them then you should be able to detect looseness in the u-joint. As for brakes like I said I would do a drop test of the pistons. With the caliper and caliper seals removed I would do a drop test of the piston into each hole. The piston should fall to the bottom of each bore without being pushed. This is a sign of the piston growing in size dried brake fluid on the piston. Just need to use a very fine sandpaper and retune each piston to it own hole. Typically during sanding you'll see the dried brake fluid.

Typically what I get looks like...

Most of that is also in the article database too.

Typically that is supplied with the need pads. I wonder how many people skip replacing those pieces?

Caliper might need to be serviced out with a rebuild kit. Typically about $5 to $8 bucks to rebuild your calipers. The pistons are easy to clean up and check.

You might have to call Dynamic and ask him what he has for suggestions. What I'm getting at is you could enlarge the header tanks on the stock radiator but still keep the stock size gain nothing. But now add another row of cores and change the game of cooling. So I would talk to Dynamic on coolers because there is a point of over cooling.

What happen to the head to have that much rust inside?

I've only heard of one person actually wearing out a exhaust brake. Cajflynn... The million mile runner... That's the thing about where do you hide such a item? Under the hood is rather packed, could be placed under the truck bed. Again mud and water issue. I'll give this more though since I've got a job here that I'm installing air bags on a truck with independent left / right controls for the air and compressor so I've got to do some hunting anyways.

Ummm... PCM doesn't control the VP44. I'm going to assume from this point ECM. So that leads me to believing there is a internal issue with the ECM. You could try and have it flashed again see if its software issue but it sound like a MOSFET or cracked solder joint is failing in the ECM.

Interesting article based from a racing point of view.

You must type the at symbol the part of dynamics name. @Dynamic That's all there is...

Got the exhaust brake on don't you?

Pretty dog... I always loved the Huskies...

If the bucket test changes this then you might have a suction line issue.

Any error codes? You might want to tag @Dynamic our on site transmission guru.