Mopar1973Man

They still wear out. There will always be some sort of contact to resistance strip out that that you have a open circuit. So no matter Stock APPS, Timbo APPS or magnetic APPS you will always complete the circuit with a contact of some sort. This circuit has to be the same no matter what you use.

LOL. I got to update nice to have your own Dyno. I had to expand the "Torque" gauge I finally buried it at 1000 foot pounds. Also added Speed in the corner. Also expanded the GPH gauge... The green zones I added to make it easy on the eyes to spot normal zones at quick glance. The HP and TQ gauges is normal stock power beyond that is extra.

Got an air leak for sure. Injector o-ring good? Crossover tube o-rings good? Pop test the injectors. Do you have any pissy injectors. Banjo a the back of the head wet? Suction side leak? Those never leak out. You have to pressurize the fuel tank to get it to leak.

Something is wrong. There should be no no health problems burning wood. You must have a cracked stove case or venting smoke into the house. I've have had stoves in the pass that cracked the case near the chimney. If your chimney is plugging up then smoke will back up into the house. I don't use damper for this reason either.

Also a Timbo's user too... No issues also cheaper at $160. As for rheostat its actually a carbon track and the wiper blade eventually will wear through the carbon offsetting the voltage.

Fooler is turned off. Close enough to my target optimal range. (Green zone)

Were all human... We all make mistakes. Great suggestion. I didn't even think about that...

Sounds right so far. Typically the probes touched together should cancel out RF noise/energy.

Use the tool to install the seal into the gear case cover while its off the gear case. Now place the plastic guide back in the seal. Now slide the plastic guide and the gear case cover back on at the same time. Once in place now pull the plastic guide back out. Speedy sleeve is installed before putting the case cover back on.

I did that too until the day the main power lead coming in the cab of my 1973 Charger got over loaded from a bad blower motor and I used a bigger fuse with a gum wrapper. Needless to say the magic smoke can out of the wires under the dash and left me stuck on I84. I did get going again my Fluke meter wires did the trick till I got home in California again.

Hmmm. Amount of error? @Me78569 Do you have anything to add that might help?

Touch the probes together to check for ZERO. The probes are picking up RF energy in the air like antenna...

That looks right 0.016 AC volts.

You want to set the range for 2V or less scale. 0.000 should be what you want to see.

I just got hit by an IRS scammer. The phone number to watch for 334-435-2376. It will NOT identify as the IRS on the caller ID. Then a digital message will play about IRS pressing charges against someone at this number. Just be aware of these scammers!

Better yet. Do it yourself save on the labor charges and have the satisfaction of knowing it was done right.

I love getting you wound up first thing in the morning...

On Timbo's APPS you want to adjust the stop pin (idle) in till it rises then back out till it stop falling in voltage then add another 1/2 turn to the screw for slack.

Think of all the times people have run there batteries dead and jump started the truck and drove on. Nothing happens just the range of throttle might be affected but most don't even notice.

On reason I do my own work on my vehicles. I know JAG1 will NOT recommend me to work on anything. I'm too slow, dropping bolts in the intercooler, drinking beer on the job.

Remember live data and dash data are always going to match. You need to use a IR temp gun on the sensor or install anothe temp gauge to see differences. Like Dripley has a dash gauge that reads low (160-180*F) but his aftermarket gauge show 190-195*F. Which create weird issues because the ECM uses that data. But of course if he hooked up a live data tool it would show the same low temp reading as the dash. Does the ECT and IAT match on cold morning start up? ECT controls idle so if the ECT is colder than normal the idle will be higher. Double check your Timbo's calibration make sure you not in the throttling position. If so the ECM will most likely idle in that 1000 RPM bracket too.

I know Dynamic can set you up.

That is alternator noise issues. All you have to do is alter RPM and the problem goes away. Not so much APPS but frequency of the noise created by the alternator.

Idle is controlled by coolant temperature so if you thermostat is cold and not making full 190*F of temperature then the idle will be high. High idle will go up to 1,200 RPM but impossible to have while driving. If coolant is over 140*F it will never re-arm again.

It would help a bunch to make sure there is no debris or high spots in the crank. Like your little dings in the tip I would take a machine file and knock them down a bit. Take some emery cloth and "lightly" sand the crank where the sleeve is going. This just makes sure there is no residue or damaged metal to hang up your installation.