Mopar1973Man

6 cords... Got 2 cords left.

Funny Dripley would say that. I've got a generic hose that is over 15 years old from my previous RV. The only thing different is the ends are screw-on and removable. So I can buy another generic hose and reuse my ends. No hose clamps. Also have the dump flange that fils the void so you don't have to smell the nasties while dumping. Absolutely... Take a camera and get some photos of your trips its always funny to share experiences.

Just looking around my own neighborhood and watch the hundreds of roads that USFS, BLM, Idaho Dept or Lands and other agencies close up. Then guess what instead of reporting that the closed the road so it can be pull from the maintenance list so now the Federal Govt is collecting tax dollars of road maintenance for roads that are closed. Another thing is when it comes time for fire suppression the road is locked up so more fire explode fast because of lack of access. Out here it usually list as close for game and wildlife habitat it's all BS! Then it gives then the right to go in and burn an entire mountain out because of excessive fuel loading. Again destroying natural habitat and natural resource because most control burn or prescribed burns turn into a trainwreck. Another one destroyed a great camping area around a lake locally to me for a "Squirrel Habitat" Are you flipping nuts? Now this destroyed the fish and camping on that lake. So now that force you into a tight campground and charge you fees. We've had more large forest fire now than ever in the past. It about "Fire Managment" not "Fire Suppression" as we do locally. Stepping down off my soap box...

Not even connected to the dongle, sitting right here at my desk. Tap the 3 dots and menu...

3 little dots in the lower left corner is the ADD function. For information value. Here is Brake Specific Fuel Consumption for Our ISB engines.

Might be worth it to just scale thee axles and see what you actually have in weight. I typically scale the trucks and RV every year at least once to see changes of axle weight. Tire inflation makes a huge impact of how the suspension feels. Just being 5 PSI too high could make the front axle feel rough. So it would be worth checking tire inflation vs axle weight. What I do is calculate full load and empty pressure and take a sharpie and write it on the driver door jamb.

The volumetric Efficiency is the number that will calibrate the GPH flow number. It calculated from the MAP sensor and a few other things. Brake Specific Fuel Consumption is not used for this but you can place that in for I think HP / TQ calculations. I'm check that this next trip. Disregard that funky Mar 11. I was still attempting to figure out the VE setting and how to get it right. Yes. You need to fire up the display device first and get connected as you get started. I'm trying to find a simple way of get everything fired up. There are a few setting for auto connection and auto display of the dashboard. As for saving it saves the data internal and is ready. It creates daily bar graphs of MPG. I will warn do not set the logs function up for some reason for me it crashes the App after about 8 miles. I'm not sure what data it capture yet but will find out soon as well. As for display or dashboards as the App calls it I created a new dash last night that is rather interesting and managed stuff 8 radial gauges on the display. Now is the data present for them I don't know. Also take notice I went for full range of the two temp gauge. I know the full range for both is -40*F to 240*F anytime I can see real value. Now if you limi the gauge to 100-240*F as the dash is then you get the same result as the stock gauge. Also on the two temp gauges I added the lime green normal zones or optimal zones.

Typically the compressor either has a label or you can call a local NAPA store for thee recharge quantity.

Well most know I'm on the way of having the 46RE fixed because I lost my direct clutch pack according to Dynamic. Got 160k miles and the transmission crapped the bed on me. Now my NV4500 manual everyone always scared of the 5 speed with the 5th gear nut issue. Nearing 260k miles and still working flawlessly. No issues at all I most likely clear 300k without a problem. Which is twice as far as my 46RE made.

Always best to pull the compressor and drain the oil. Then recharge with 7 ozs of PAG 100 directly in through the drain hole. Guessing at oil charge is dangerous over charge and you could blow a compressor up or under charged and eat the bearings out of it. As for recharge I typically run by pressures. Lo Side I aim for 35-40 PSI and Hi Side should run about 225 to 250 PSI. Typically right around 2.5 to 3 can (12 oz) of R134a freon. Best to have ambient temp above 70*F when you recharge. Too cold outside could produce lower pressures at that point I typically go by volume which comes back to the 2.5 to 3 cans. Properly charged system should not cycle the compressor even if the RPM's are raised to 1,500 RPM it should hold solid.

I'm working on getting more into it. first thing is build up another accurate trip computer. Start simple and learn as I go.

My thing is I see the BLM issues more so being I'm directly involved with USFS, BLM with forest fires and see some of the impact here of BLM control. Sickening...

Well gang... I'm back to playing around with OBDII Data again. I'm wanting to move the ScanGauge II to the 1996 Dodge Ram and use my OBDLink LX bluetooth dongle for the 2002 Cummins. The OBDLink LX is basically plug and plug. The Android Software you can get off Google Play. Now as for setup there is a bit configuring. Make sure to fill in the easy stuff like year, make, model. Now the important stuff is the volumetric efficiency, engine displacement (liters) and select intake manifold absolute pressure. You see the 77.5% that is figured from the base line for Cummins ISB is 63% then my old ScanGauge II had a offset of 14.5% so adding together you get 77.5%. So I took off and did a quick test run. So the numbers look like they are close to right. I'm going to need to do a nice long haul and get some test data to verify number. As for my display I use. You can configure anything you want. I added warning zones and normal zones making easy to glance at it and see the needle in a lime green zone or not.

That's a myth. Biodiesel does not clean out a fuel system also petroleum diesel doesn't gunk up a fuel system either. I've opened a lot of fuel tank here locally and never seen a dirty diesel fuel tank from petroleum diesel. It's all about the dispensing pump at the fuel station do they have filters or not? What type of filters water blocking or standard media? This will affect that out come. Like myself majority petroleum diesel and changing filters at 50k miles because its a waste at 30k miles the filter still looks new as seen below.

Yeah... Tuner. I'm running Edge Comp no gauges with the Edge Comp so stand Alone. Comp in on the column. No extra wiring just 8 wires on the tuner.

I still say fix the issue. Why is it people like me can drive 2 hours get out grab the line in it just mildly warm? I still say there is a restriction creating the heater where I'm not sure. As for when I'm going to bet that the first pump failure ejected debris into the system and it's still there hence why you frying pump yet. Remove the debris the heat is will go away. I've seen the same thing too. Ford was really known for issues for heating up the power steering being they typically ran ATF vs. power steering fluid like Dodge did for years and very, very, rarely in a few heavy duty series did Dodge add a cooler to the power steering. From all the Dodge vehicles I've owned including a Dodge motorhome Class C none of my vehicles had a power steering cooler. Same old pump and saginaw gear box.

Stand alone gauge. Remember the Edge juice and iQuad can only report the sensor data from the CANBUS. So if the sensor is failing so is the display data.

I have a hard reading anything that comes From U. S. Department of Energy: Alternative Fuels Data Center. Of course they want to sell Biodiesel. Now get a independent lab more likely get a different story. Same people that bought you EGR and DPF's. Our wonderful gov't and infinite wisdom. Basically like running winterized fuel all year round. Still in all petroleum diesel still has the highest energy content. Just like unmolested gasoline has more BTU's than ethanol mix gas.

Again in the video high pressures will cause the pump to burn up. So restriction...

There is two adjustments on the gear box one adjustment you can do on the vehicle. The other you need to remove the gear box to adjust the bearing preload. The adjustment you most likely did was the over center adjustment which is the jam nut and the Allen stud. The bearing pre-load is the red collar in the picture which you have to remove the gear box to do properly. Some rebuild kits will have the bearings for the output shaft. Not much in a gear box.

Then you should be able to order just the tail section from MBRP...

Call some of the vendors you might be able to order just the tail tip too...

No replace everything from the turbo to the rear bumper. I just finished an exhaust kit on a 1995 Dodge replaced every bit of the exhaust system. So much nicer going from straight pipe 5" dumped forward of the rear axle to 4" fully mufflered, full exhaust all the way to the tail. Turn out excellent. The owner extremely pleased. The 5" at 60-65 MPH the drone was so bad two people couldn't talk in the cab unless you slowed down to 50 MPH. Full exhaust system is right around $350 bucks and all new then.

For the money it would be just smart to just do a exhaust system for your truck.