Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Hmmm... I've thought about doing both trailers on a axle flip but that's a bit more than I could do solo. -
1999 Dodge Cummins Wiring Maps ABS Brake Wiring (4 Wheel) Air Conditioning Airbag SRS system Anti Theft System Automatic Transmission System (Page 1) Automatic Transmission System (Page 2) Backup Lighting CCD Network Central Timer Module Charging System Instrument Cluster (Page 1) Instrument Cluster (Page 2) Instrument Cluster Lights Courtesy Lights Cruise Control Engine System (Page 1) Engine System (Page 2) Engine System (Page 3) Exterior lighting (Page 1) Exterior lighting (Page 2) Grounds (Page 1) Grounds (Page 2) Grounds (Page 3) Headlights Headlights w/Quad Headlights w/DRL Grounds w/Quad and w/DRL Heater Horn Intergrated Module Overhead Module Power Distribution (Page 1) Power Distribution (Page 2) Power Distribution (Page 3) Power Door Locks with Keyless Entry Power Door Locks Power Mirrors Power Seat Power Windows Radio Radio (Premium) Seat Belt Starting System Warning System Wipers ABS Brake System (4 Wheel) Air Conditioning Wiring Air Bag SRS Wiring Anti Theft System Automatic Transmission System (Page 1) Automatic Transmission System (Page 2) Backup Lighting CCD Network Central Timer Module Charging System Instrument Cluster (Page 1) Instrument Cluster (Page 2) Instrument Cluster Lights Courtesy Lights Cruise Control Engine System (Page 1) Engine System (Page 2) Engine System (Page 3) Exterior Lighting (Page 1) Exterior Lighting (Page 2) Grounds (Page 1) Grounds (Page 2) Grounds (Page 3) Headlights Headlights w/Quad Headlights w/DRL Headlights w/Quad and w/DRL Heater Horn Integrated module Overhead module Power Distribution (Page 1) Power Distribution (Page 2) Power Distribution (Page 3) Power Door Locks With Keyless Entry Power Door Locks Power Mirrors Power Seat Power Winodws Radio Radio (Premium) Seat Belt Starting System Warning System Wipers
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One of the reason I'm quick to grab the OBDII error code links because the monitor and set conditions are typically listed first thing on the error code. So now at least you have something to look for and why its setting the code. Which might now go back to why the battery life was shorter if the battery temp sensor was damaged it might of been charging at the wrong rate causing the battery issues. At the same time now creating the P1291 code. Weird how this might all be connected...
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Be aware there leaked information coming to our fire dept that laminate glass on the side windows might return. If so the whole glass hammer won't work it more like trying to use it on the windshield. But currently all car and truck have tempered glass in the side and rear windows. There is a glass saw for laminate glass you can cut out a windshield in just a minute or less. One of the best extrication tool that most carpenters own is a battery powered sawzall.There is a lot to know about AirBag and placement as well as structure of a vehicle before I would suggest anyone attempting to use this tool an a vehicle. Most vehicles to today hide airbags in the a-pillar, above the side windows, etc. Just blindly cutting without looking can be very deadly for the person trapped inside or yourself. Amazing enough somewhere on the Internet there is a mobile app that list every single vehicle and placement of all the airbags. Here... I tell a tale of another time I pulled over and older gent needed help. An older couple were traveling north the husband need to take a leak. So he pulled over in a wide spot and walk over the embankment to give himself cover. Needless to say the ground is slick with fine gravel. So he tumbled to the bottom no more than 4-5 feet most. He wasn't really hurt but embarrassed. Ambulance crew was there but under staffed for the task. So I jump ed right on in to give support for this gent and get him back to the top. They clean him up and sent him on his way. Some times is just being there to give a hand.
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Do take note of where this site is. There is another thread here with the same link it from over in Africa...
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I've thought of flipping the axles on my RV. What all has to be done to flip them?
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There is a member map function here. It might help to locate you and others. As for placing your pin you don't need an exact address but a city state would do it. https://mopar1973man.com/membermap/
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Not to pull this off topic or pull it Gov't wise. Just look at the "Powers to be" that control the show. Look at how greed controls the out come of wars and "Powers to be" actions. Just think of how it might impact our lives here. Now realize how it would impact someone of better standing say in New York City and drop them to this world. Imagine the panic and the fright that would set into a person.
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Still easy as pie to open. Break out the grill and the locate the cable find a object like a shovel handle or stick and wrap the cable around the stick and lever away from the latch. The cable should pull loose from the latch assembly and release the hood. Typically I grab a Halligan tool break the grill out and grab the cable with the fork end and twist. Pops the hood every time.
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Kind of like I've got a small nick in the rubber roof. About the size of a pencil eraser. I put one dab silicone on it. Still holding solid. As for recoating the roof I did use Dicor roof coating to seal and recoat the rubber roof.
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You'll have to watch it closely during the initial start. The IAT temps only shift maybe 2-3 degrees up and down typically. As the monitor and set conditions state... Temperature rise from intake air heaters is monitored for first 15 seconds of engine operation. DTC may be stored if initial Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor reading is 0-66°F (-17.8 to 18.8°C), Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) and IAT sensor are within 10°F of each other, time between end of preheat and engine run state is less than 30 seconds, engine is cranked for less than 5 seconds before engine starts, preheat is completed before engine starts, post-heat is active and no IAT sensor or intake air heater relay DTCs exist. So is it possible your battery temp sensor is damaged or connector is damaged?
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I'm working with even smaller 45 watts worth of panels or 3.25 amps @ 13.8 VDC. Something to consider my entire 2 story house is powered by only 400 watts worth of panels. I will be investing in a upgrade for the house soon this year and going up to 1,100 watts worth of panels. It's not that the 400 watts don't work it that the winter sun angle is so short you need more amps to get caught up in the winter time. Summer time typically I'm selling power back because I can't use it all.
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Totally Normal. In the colder weather the steam is more pronounced. I will warn those capture cans can be rather messy. Even with my vent pipe in the cold weather I can see a steam trail all the way to the back of the truck. As for the oil dripping it typically because the vent tube is extended straight down. The up and over method like mine will not drip typically.
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With two batteries I think I've got PD9245 series. I would base the series on what you would have for total load with about everything on. You would want a converter that is large enough to hold up to the full load plus still charge a little on the batteries.
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@KATOOM is right these converters are the best I've seen. Really do work good!
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Wow! You done an awesome job of repairing the RV. Question how did you seam the fiberglass on the side?
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First thing I can suggest is make sure all connectors are clean, got a dab of dielectric grease, and might cycle each connector 3 times to clean up the connectors. VP44, ECM and your battery cables. Might double check the big connector in the PDC. When you do work with that one be careful tightening that bolt it will strip out really easy!
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Just for information value... http://www.progressivedyn.com/pendant.html
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I wish I had a copy of the video they produced in the valley here during the 1996-1997 flood. That was also a 11 on the pucker factor scale.
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Might have to monitor your IAT sensor reading...
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Way to tell mechanical vs. electric is easy. Mechanical will read what actual pressure is all the time. Electric ISSPro gauge will always sweep the needle full span and return to zero before reading pressure.
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Sealants... Touchy topic. I've seen what different sealant have done on my RV. The previous owner used some sort of caulking that as it ages it gets brittle and cracks open and water start to leak behind the fiberglass body (delamination issues). I typically head for 50 year silicone of a good name brand. Just need to prep the area good and clean all the old sealant up. I typically cut a very fine bead and to seal the seam or item. Last batch of caulk that some suggested I used didn't work very well. To me its a trial and error thing on sealants. As for the Eternabond tape. It can also cause issues. Again the previous owner had a water leak issue in the dining area of the slide and use Eternabond tap on the corner to attempt to seal the corner. Sad to say it still leak about year after I bought it. Carefully removed the tape and again cleaned the corner up. The with a fine bead silicone I was able to inject the silicone into the corner gap and seal it up permanently. Like this summer I got to re-do all the corner trims on the RV and the clearance lights.
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Looks good to me.
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The only thing I can add is when you do put your RV away for winter storage make sure to change the "Charge Wizard" over to storage mode. This is the lowest charge voltage it will give and will keep the batteries charged but less likely of becoming gassy and venting water over long winter time storage.
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Yes Sir. Always have been. It is my command central. I can see you coming before you get off the highway. No way to sneak into our place. I should put the camera on my dash some time again and show how many people still pass me even doing the speed limit. Should see the amount of times I power braked and dove for the ditch trying to get get out of the way of a idiot passing illegally. True. Sometimes you got to juggle time factors. Is there enough time to get the people out of the vehicle safely? Do you do something to stop the fire? Is more time needed to get the people out of the vehicle because of entrapment? I typically look to attempt to gain time. I would instantly grab the negative lead and yank it off the battery. That should stop the possibly of fire, not always but it should buy more time. Is the vehicle stable and secure? If not find away to make it secure so not to injury other working or injury the people trapped. Some time all you can do is rely on man power.