Mopar1973Man

Not good enough. A third could use another relay like the horn to still start it. This why you need to make it harder to figure out. Missing relay is easy like pulling a fuse. What happens when everything is in place? Now the thief will more likely move on after he cleans out the cab like you ScanGauge.

I use a Harbor Freight ball joint press for doing u-joints. Just use a impact gun to drive the press. More or less a big C-clamp. Works good and quick to change out u-joints. I would suggest to get a small hone stone/brush and run it through the holes to clean them up a little bit. Take all the rust out and it will make installing much easier. http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html

So you need to pull the ECM plug and the Cam Sensor plug and ohm from end to end to see if there is any connection problems. This test should show 0 ohms but 0-5 ohm is acceptable. Then while its disconnected ohm from pug to ground looking for shorts to ground. So on this test everything should be infinite ohms or OPEN.

I remember the days of CB's... Now where I live it nearly impossible to transmit out of the valley floor. North end of Riggins, ID looking north as US95 travels the river.

Fairly simple really. The fuel pump relay in the PDC is the power relay for the VP44. If you open the PDC up you can see the black ground lead for the relay. Just wire it into the cab on a SPST switch and mount the switch in a good hiding spot that isn't obvious. A single wire is really easy to tuck back in the main loom so there is no clue that that is the kill lead. The big trick is to mount the kill switch some where you can toggle without a passenger or other people looking can see you reach for. Like around your driver seat base maybe?

I'll verify temp measurements when I return home. Just using the hand method the case from top to bottom feels equally in temperature. So I'll verify oil temp with external means of measurement.

Second day of towing max temp I've seen so far is 170*F. Still averaging roughly 140 to 160*F. Still shifting very well. I've called Abe @ Weller TTruck asked him what max temp is for the 50 SAE trans fluid. He states that it failure point is 300*F.

Ok so I'm travelling with RV and will report after travelling for 1.5 hours at highway speeds I'm roughly holding 140-160*F running 4th or 5th gears. Now drop into town it will rise with 3rd fear but cools right back off once back at highway speeds. More to come...

I'm going to do the study work for the coolers now. As for my normal daily driving I'm hard pressed to get 140*F. That not even needing a cooler. Now I'll find out more during some RV and utility trailer towing. The only reason I don't way the fast coolers is because of the winter time temperatures. I don't what to have to keep swapping the coolers off and on just to get the fluid warmed up enough in the winter time. So consider you overall weather conditions and temperatures. Agreed. Now that I switch fluids and being what I'm using is cheaper that the original fluid I will be more prone to changing the fluid more often. Even with 261k miles on the truck I didn't have any debris even when the transmission did fail. So the idea of a filter isn't needed really. Now I'm experimenting with non-standard fluids I'm going to watch and see behavior of the transmission and temperatures. But so far it runs really really cool most times here in the mountain just empty driving. So far I've not seen a reason for the coolers as of yet.

First off don't bother pulling the IAT sensor. Just hook up a live data tool and watch the data. Nothing is ever gained from the old myth of cleaning the IAT sensor. I quit doing that years ago and just watch the sensor data. Colder the IAT the more advanced the timing will be come. Optimal IAT is when it lands in the green zone.

Just a plain ol' NAPA thermostat. I can reset the hi / lo markers on my OBDLink LX and see the limits of swing.

Had to make another trip into town today a bit warmer weather (~80*F). Still in all it take better than 10-12 miles to get the gauge to rise from the 100*F mark. By the time I get to town gear down for 25 MPH now the transmission is warming up to 130*F or so. Now leave town and head home it varies from 120-130*F most of the time.

Why not do the easy thing and leave the thermostat out till the block is completely filled right to the edge of the block. Now install the thermostat and finish filling. Never have an air issue then.

Now that looks correct... Weird how it was flipped.

But looking at the radiator its location and fan direction now dictates the rest. I've not figured out how to mirror an image that way. So he's standing on the driver side of the truck hood hinge is to his left, front of the truck is to the right. So how is the turbo on the driver side? Radiator cap on the wrong side too? Just flippin weird.

Take a look at this picture and figure out how everything is backwards. Turbos on the wrong side, etc. Look at it closely...

Out the firewall and more or less straight line to the passenger side of the transmission.

The older 12V tend to play that game more so because of the location of the temp sensors. 98.5 to 02 the temp sesnr is right at the thermostat so your seeing the hottest coolant right there. Back in the 12V they had the coolant sensor at the rear of the engine so by the time the coolant cycled and the coolant dropped enough to close the thermostat the coolant at the rear of the engine was colder. Hence the wide change of temp on a 12V vs our where it might rise and fall 10 degree roughly. Depends on the thermostat. Like mine pop open initial close to 200*F and then falls to 188*F then becomes stable at 191-193*F never changes unless towing.

Hmmm 1" maybe... Go the hardware store and grab a few different sizes of brass fittings.

This is why I always leave the thermostat out till I get the block right to the edge of the thermostat. That way all air is forced out and you drop in the thermostat and bolt it down and hook up your hose and top of with the last half gallon or so of coolant and your done.

Ok. I know this isn't much for load. I hitched up the BigTex 70TV trailer loaded it up with household trash and old tires I kept for spares. Maybe at the most 1,000 pound of cargo in the trailer. The trailer dry weight is 1,800 pounds. So not very much. I can say that traveling from home to Riggins, ID which is 1,000 feet elevation drop in 15 miles the trans temp never broke off of 100*F the whole way till I hit the city limits and dropped to 25 MPH now it barely made 105*F. So now the trailer is empty for the trip home. So cruise set at speed limit it took 15 miles to even get 125*F. Now worming around to park the trailer back in the yard and left the truck idling now it crawled up to 135*F when I parked it. Temperature wise I say this transmission and trans fluid is doing good. Like I seen more reaction from the boost and pyrometer as I worked the truck back up hill.

Nothing... Clean mating surfaces. That's all that is required.

The only time my temperature will climb away from the normal 190-200*F zone is when the pyrometer is above 1,000*F. Then the pyrometer dictates how fast. So if I'm towing up a grade holding 1,200*F it doesn't take long to climb to 205-208*F to lock the fan. Everything below 1000*F EGT's won't make the coolant temperature change at all. EDIT: Digging through my logs I've been hard pressed to exceed 197*F on a empty truck.

On fuel fittings its a no no... If you get any tape down in the injection pump or injectors it will be game over. Everything else its OK.

Even on automatic that's just way too hot period. Synthetic fluids are more thermally stable and able to tolerate heat but your right 275*F is way too hot for all the bearings, gears and everything. I'm really curious to see towing temperatures and how mine does for most of the grades here in Idaho. Most all highways are the typical 6-7% some short as few miles and like Whitebird Grade is 6-7% at about 7 miles long.