Mopar1973Man

Seem like the two of you need to create a nice write up of how that's done...

Here I got an industrial service pack just for you.

Ok. You are going to need a test light and a DVM. While the truck is idling just started cold check the grid heater terminals for power see if both are hitting or one is hitting. Then with the DVM hook it up to the battery and watch the battery voltage. Tell me what the DVM voltage is doing during the on cycle of the grid heaters. I'm wondering if there is a damage grid heater? Just double checking, I would have both batteries load tested and have the alternator load tested as well. That "HRUMMFF" as you call it is typically a sign of heavy draw on the alternator.

Just appears it was shoved in too deep that's all. As long as the clamp is positioned correctly I don't see a problem.

Just for learning value. Most times people with excessive blow by are informed to check vacuum lines first thing. Because a disconnected vacuum line can imitate bad rings... Being the vacuum pump exhausts into the crankcase and then vents out the crankcase vent.

You need to redo that lower clamp. Either the steel tube is shoved too deep or you got the clamp too high. I normally don't use any lubes on the boots this way they stick to the ends and don't blow off. I typically use a orange degreaser from Home Depot that makes the boot very slick for short time once it dres it sticks in place and a PITA to remove. No. Because the carb spray will be just sucked into the crankcase to dilute the oil... Bad idea.

I love your No No NO GIF...

Only problem with FAS it so friggin' huge... Makes for difficult time hiding the pump and filter somewhere out of the debris path of the tires also out of the direct wind of winter cold. So the FASS can't go in my hiding spot. It just too big. So consider you mounting location very careful. Frame rail mounting will place the filters in striking path of any kicked up road debris. It would really suck to run over something and wipe out the filters.

$200 is steep. Master - http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCF72354_0316483226 Slave - http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCF73322_0316483225 Complete unit - http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCF74013_0316483228 $129.48 is quite a savings... The only difference you have to bleed the system yourself. You still have to install as a mass unit with either the $200 unit or pull it, rebuild, bleed, and install for less.

Keep your eyes over in CF for guys putting in stereo systems typically that is the first thing to get chucked in the trash.

You could change out the entire rail cheaper... As for the sample of fuel it looks like you got a load of summer fuel and the last batch was clouding up.

Most likely blow the piston out of the slave cylinder. I highly suggest against this.

No comment...

No. The early 2nd Gen's like the 94-98 are slightly different in the back seat area.

That a nice checklist set!

Sorry I couldn't do it. Nice truck lots of nice options. To spend that kind of money on a new truck its really tough to be out boonie crashing with a expensive truck. I rather have an old beater that you can push the trees and not care.

I love doing a good battle back and forth making me dig hard and deep for information to back it up! Here you go.. I kind of lost the clip on the watering but you should get the idea...

Ahhh... That why when I do my month battery watering of the vehicles and the house they are placed into a equalize charge to deal with that destructive stratification by stirring in the distilled water and the raising the overall charge voltage above normal 13-14 volt range to 15.5 volts. Of course, on the vehicle the battery is disconnected for this process. Charging temperatures http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_at_high_and_low_temperatures Equalize charging http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge NOTE: You cannot Equalize charge a AGM battery it will damage the battery.

Haha! Very Funny... No I always consider that I might be stuck out in the forest either with Search & Rescue or Fire Dept. I typically grab the back pack and run. Some jobs I might live out of the truck for better than 24 hours so there is plenty of food and water for myself if needed. Then the other factor if the truck breaks down I can grab the extra water and MRE and MoparMom and myself can walk to safety if need be. Again I don't live in an area where cellphones work so if the Cummins quits it our problem getting to safety. Juice jug is a extra 1/2 gallon of drink water for my passenger who ever that might be.

Still regardless of circumstances... A battery is a battery. For the conversation here we are discussing lead acid. Still the fact remain bigger the storage capacity the longer it will take to chemically recharge a battery. So smaller batteries with less capacity will charge faster than a larger battery with more capacity. Once again it comes back to chemically altering the lead plate and the electrolyte by the means of current flow and voltage. So still the larger the batteries the more charge time to be properly maintained. This is why there are more failures typically with folks buying super large batteries but live in the city. So the start up drive 3-5 miles and shut down. That 1000 CCA battery just got kicked out of bed cold, tickled with 5-10 minutes of charge time and put back to sleep again. So failure rate tends to be higher because the overall charge time for larger batteries should be longer as well. Again it about chemical changing the materials. There are other factors like battery cables, terminal condition, other accessory loads that might impact that charge time and require longer. Optimally the under hood temperature needs to come up to full temperature then another 10-15 miles of travel minimum on a cold day. Remember cold batteries resist charging so here we go again that places more load on the alternator force feed a resistive battery. No. Because the PCM goes by battery temperature. So the physically bigger group 31's will take longer to heat up and charge completely than an smaller group 27 that is smaller in CCAs. More on charging temperature... http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_at_high_and_low_temperatures

Hua? It does too.

Filter should of caught the dirt in the fuel. It would of broke the plate in the pump for the rotor and never ran again. Is the alternator charging and is the tach working? Any P0336 or P0341 codes?

Won't matter. Still the amount of energy removed from the battery will have to be recharged back so high the CA / CCA the longer the charging time will be. Being the grids draw 195 amps max that means that energy was pulled from the battery and will have to be recharged. Larger the batteries the longer the recharge is going to be. It not the voltage on the gauge its the specific gravity of each cell. So simply put most of us just measure cell voltage. Good tidbit of info on charging. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery More about reducing the over all load... Something to think about. Just having a quick cycle of my house system because of a brown out I still got to do a 2 hour bulk charge. This is only $4,800 worth of battery nothing much...

So here is something to consider. 14.5 V x 60 A = 870 Watts. Now upgrade to the newer alternators 14.5 V x 140 A = 2,030 Watts of heat. So now consider the loads mainly the grid heaters hitting. Now you've got 2,000 watts of heat pouring out of the diodes. Now consider absolutely cold morning say minus numbers, weak or damaged batteries, then grid heater hitting plus the draw of the starter on the batteries. Then the alternator attempting to recover still while the grid heater continue to cycle. What do you think those minus temperature diodes are doing with 2,000 watts of current passing through them? Ah I know I got you thinking now don't I?