Mopar1973Man

Soak it with PB blaster and either use a 3/8" impact or shock the wrench with a hammer. When re-installing put a dab of anti-seize on the threads make life better if you have to remove the probe later.

Need to find out what tap you need. 1/8" NPT is typical but check what fitting your using. Then get the proper drill for that tap. You want to drill on top of the high part of the runner. The low area is a solid divider do not drill there. A lot of people have all kinds of tricks for getting drill crumbs out of the manifold. Using magnets, q-tips, leave the engine running while drilling, shop vacuum while drilling. As for tapping just tap deep enough for the fitting to bite. Like you seen mine is not sunk in the manifold you need to consider the tip and getting it roughly in the center of the manifold port.

Yes. Typically in the past it was always said the 4,5,6 port is hotter. Consider how many times you here of someone burning #6 piston.

Totally up to you. You could plug and re-drill and tap a new port in the rear 4,5,6.

1,2,3 are DEAD. 4,5,6 are firing. Firing order - 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 I'm installed in the 4,5,6 port...

3 CYL mode is about 800-900*F with an exhaust brake, about 600*F without.

Typically not an issue as long as your not over zealous tightening the clamp.

Exhaust temps won't show you bad firing injector tip.

Stock size maybe not. But tire make up being A/T style might of. Remember this isn't a fresh new axle it a axle with over 14 year of life already on the metals.

I just got done with the BHAF on other rig. What do you need to know.

The whole log idea I can say is going to take effort to keeping looking good. Like Shaver's in McCall, ID used the same idea for the store front. Today, years later the logs are splitting open, Th cracks in some logs are big enough to stick my hand into. I would suggest that the logs are set on concrete on buried in the ground.

Yes...

Sad part is with it "BlueChip hot wired" only leave the VP44 to blame for electronics. There is no feedback of ECM or any other sensor being the injection pump has no connection ot the ECM now. As for fuel its possible for air to be present and cause weird issues. I would consider pop testing injectors and checking the fuel supply for air. If those both check out then it going to be time for a VP44.

Now that I'm getting the OBDLink dialed in and closer and closer to accurate for data logs, trip computer and anything else. I figure I needed a nice cradle to hold the tablet. Now I'll admit that it not exactly viewable while driving which is good, there is less chances of me mess with the tablet while driving or watch the gauges too much. I rigged the important gauges to have high markers so I can capture a screenshot when I stop somewhere. Now my cradle barely clears the transmission stick and I've got to be careful throwing 5th not to cram it in. The tablet barely fits with all cables hooked up including audio back to my stereo. I can see the tablet clearly in 2nd and 4th gears. 1st, 3rd, 5th block the view but oh well... Can't complain its all free materials.... Basically chopped up an old scrap 2x6. The notch is 5/8" wide. Measured 5" deep but the pocket side you have to cut the tip back 1". Then I had some scrap aluminum diamond plate left. Just bent a cupped lip on the bottom edge. Crude... Yes but functional. Like I said 5th is a bit close...

What kind of tread face? H/T, A/T or M/T

Yeah, upload to Youtube and copy the URL to the post it will automatically embed to the post.

Typically the front sensors are the trouble ones. Rear sensor you'll know if its bad because the speedometer will either quit or be really wonky. Like my truck its not the front sensor but the front wheel bearing / tone wheels. You think front sensors are expensive try saving pennies for front unit bearings. http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/PGRPBR930203_0329241875

If you considering it then just do the BlueChip hot wire test then the VP44 is standing alone and no data feed from the ECM. Maybe you can still see RPM's... If so see if it changes. If it does change then the ECM is feeding it information to idle higher. Either coolant temperature or APPS sensor.

Or less traction on the tires. One of the few reasons I went down one tire size. Between the generated torque and the tire traction something in between will fail.

I highly suggest against this. Use the stud in the PDC for power point. Less likely of rotting out your wiring from battery acid. As for ground use a ground stud like the one on the driver side fender Again less likely to rot your wiring from battery acid. That good. Touching the glass with your hand will place oils from your skin on the glass causing bulb failure. I can with my OBDLink LX and tablet. Just set the log feature up and tell it you want to track charging voltage and it will log graphical as you drive. I know there is Module Master in Moscow, ID that can bench test your ABS module and repair if need be. Have you replace any speed sensors? Might be a issue with the sensor(s). In my case is a tone wheel issue. This points to a wiring issue possibly causing this...

Done the same thing here. Be careful there... I've talk to a few state police officers about truck weights. As far as they said you are not permitted to exceed either GVWR or GCWR limits of the truck, even if the truck can safely haul the weight. Basically like he pointed out if your over weight and have an accident the weight issue might come to bite you. Weight laws are changing... http://www.worktruckonline.com/channel/safety-accident-management/article/story/2007/11/dot-mandates-may-apply-when-using-trailers.aspx Friend of mine got pulled over for hauling a stock trailer and got away with it because he was barely under the line by a few hundred pounds. He's 3500 single axle. So State Police are cracking down on weight violations. Like he though he's not commercial just a common Joe hauling a friends trailer. No longer true...

190*F is the proper thermostat... ECM is programmed device it can't be altered because off a thermostat. I still think the APPS is still in throttling mode.

@Dynamic Would be the man to answer this weird one.

Ouch...

Coolant temperature. Idle is completely based off of coolant temperatures. So once the APPS set the IDLE IVS then the ECM software bases the idle speed off of coolant temperature. So colder coolant makes the idle higher and hotter makes the idle lower. I've got as far as hooking up a rheostat to the coolant sensor plug and cranked the coolant down to -30*F and had the idle cranked up to 1,800 RPMs and the went the other direction and crank it up close 230*F and the idle dropped to low 700 RPM. Still in all the idle is completely ECM driven. So between the crank sensor and coolant temperature would produce your idle speed so if the crank sensor isn't quite right (flaky) or the coolant temps (bad thermostat) are off then you can get variance.