Mopar1973Man

Post your video of smacking the tree and then peeling out up the mountain road in the snow...

Like myself I can drive with the Edge cranked up on 5x5 I've done it too. It about giving lag to spool up the turbo. Again back to fuel management most on the human side. ISX did it with his p7100 pump and remove the plate and AFC. Again all done on the human side allowing time for the turbo to light up. But for the puppies of the world that plant their boot to the floor at the green light will fight the smoke issue. There was no finger point at you @TFaoro speaking very generally. Now @Me78569 with his turbo controller might be a whole another game changer too.

They always said in the racing world that a slight crankcase vacuum is best it lets nature pull the piston back down. So if you capturing pressure in the crankcase in might be a good idea to increase the pipe size to vent more. There was an old article about using a one way check valve and inserting the crankcase vent into the exhaust stream creating that mild crankcase vacuum.

That's the problem. The pressure falls off very rapidily instead of hold a nice crisp fog pattern it turns more of a splattered mess. Larger the droplet the more to to convert from liquid to vapor ot Bang! Hence why more and more people battle with SAC injectors and controlling smoke because the pressure drop is pretty rapid because of the high volume nozzle. I will admit that SAC is the ultimate injector for power production but not very good for street manners. Where in reverse the small nozzle hold pressure in the line longer and keeps the better fine mist to fog going. Which in turn produces cleaner power better street manners but more limited on fuel flow. This why CR engines are able to do it better because that can preload the cylinder with fuel mist then light it off with the main event allowing for more fuel to placed in the cylinder but still keeping a good fog to mist going. Also CR engine have higher pressures over VP44.

Southbend Con OFE Clutch and Tire Size Reduction (265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16). That's it! The thing is yes you can still tap the wire but you can either turn down the Comp main level or sublevel or both. What kills the clutch is excessive power in RPM band. Best way to learn what happening is grab a bicycle preferably a 10 speed to 20 speed. Now if you jump into too high of a gear will climbing a grade its possible to break the chain or bend the crank depending on leg strength. Yes on my bicycle the cranks are slightly bent. So the same applies here if you modify the fueling so the power comes on later then typically the clutch holds up better. At the same time this why I went down a tire size it adds in acceleration but also allow for excessive power to break the tires loose instead of clutch or input shaft. I'm going to cross 260k mile on the diesel and still to this day never had a 5th ger nut issue!

Yes.

Duration... I wish the term would go away. The fuel pin creates line pressure making the injector fire multiple times as a chattering effect in a sense duration but line pressure it what makes it fire several times. If you could place a pressure gauge on one line and watch VP44 goes from about 4,500 to 18,000 PSI per line. (Not exactly sure the max pressure... close to the 20,000 range) Back in the days of 1st gen it was really common to blow a injector line after turning up the fuel screw and installing a aggressive fuel pin. The lines could handle the pressure break or crack.

The whole idea with the wire tap is raising the line pressure to each injector. Which Smarty (or any programmer) can only do so much and has to play by particular rules by the ECM and VP44. The wire tap is where this extra control is found. I'll admit hands down Smarty is the best programmer for low end power and torque management control. I would have to agree if this new version is what they claim it is then yes, it would allow more control but at the cost of still stack with another module (most likely TST fuel only box) so you could most bang for your buck. I would have to say at this time Quadzilla Adrenaline and Edge Products (Comp or Juice) have the best fuel to boost management over Smarty at this current time. Still with bigger injectors you would still need a wire tap box of some sort to build good line pressure. "Assuming" the same limitaion is still occurring with the Smarty Pro series with 60-65 HP. It would give better fuel to boost control but still limited.

I added one with the RV towing back from Dynamics place. I was hunting for that one...

Here is calculated number from my last trip. The red markers show my high points. Correction this is empty running... Green bands is the stock HP / TQ area beyond that is extra. Again this is calculated at the flywheel. I found one during towing my RV.

Ahh... That where you got to be careful larger injector do pose their own problems too. Larger droplets, efficiency problems, etc. Same like CR people using rail pressure on smaller injectors again the high rail pressure makes for cleaner efficient burn vs. larger injectors. Kind of like if BBI injectors were produced for 24V another great product. But only CR engine only. After following BBI on how they build injectors worlds of difference from the dirty SAC injectors for our 24Vs. http://smartyresource.com/BBi2003-2004.aspx There was several articles on what it took to produce these injectors also how clean the spray pattern is. Then yes a good programmer would be able to help clean up larger injectors... Again waiting to see what will happen.

I know there is limitation of hardware not exactly sure what is the limiting factor being I've heard the Vp44 PSG or ECM hardware. Etc. If there wasn't any limitation why was Smarty only building 65 HP tuners all these years? After dealing with EFI Live tuners software modification is a mere few hours and flash your tune your ready to go. So the whole 65 HP limit is what I waiting to see if they can break through. Modification of fuel and timing table would be cool to be able to do for once. Just not really pleased with having to stack to get to use the Smarty. (Down side)

So there is a difference between the two as of current UDC and the pro series... Hmmm...

Some how I really doubt that will happen. Even the UDC for CR engines don't go that far RPM wise. Boost wise CR engine are allowed up to 40 PSI. I really doubt there will be that much for the 24V's. Accuracy of our MAP sensor is spotty at best about 30 PSI.

Really come issue out here in Idaho. Pack Rats will do the same thing if you don't rid of them quickly. One reason I stopped plugging the truck in. It made perfect habitat for rats and mice to hang out at night. "Ohh I'm bored. Nice wiring loom to chew on..." Munch, munch, munch...

You fine on the clutch. I'm running just behind you slightly at +50HP injectors and wire tapped on the Edge Comp. I tow heavy and never had a problem with my clutch which happens to be a Southbend Con OFE. It's never slipped. This all depends on your tire size. Oversize tires will put more stress on the clutch than stoc k size will. I'm designed to break the tires loose when I start reaching the threshold of the clutch so no damage occurs.

Being that like running 85 MPH on the interstate. I would be concerned. I would for sure be looking at the vacuum pump and vacuum lines as well as doing a compression test. @TFaoro Even with low miles you still seem to straight stream of vapor with some force. Where mine is more of drifty vapor. This might have something to do with how your engine was rebuilt. (Cam, compression ratio, etc.)

I'm pretty sure it's going to be the same old 60-65 HP output... I'm hoping I'm wrong too but general rule of thumb any non-wire tapped programmer is limited to 60-65 HP on 24V trucks.

@Me78569 is the producer of the lines he could answer more on that. Actually this one... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2260/overview/ I'm not sure what the sensor looks like being I'm trying to order a ISSPro EV2 gauge but even ISSPro web site doesn't show the sensor. But yeah it will look similar. Again @Me78569 is the producer of these transmission line kits. 1/2 ton truck. Typically its not a primary rig but it does work when the Cummins is down for repairs. So far I'm up to $1,500 on the transmission, then $75 in fluid. My pockets are rather empty now but now spending more on the bung and gauge. I made 160k miles on stock everything. I doubt I'll gain much from aftermarket pan.

Do a little research and see what can be done. I'm not sure what you'll have to do to get lock up in 2nd gear and doing a lock up controller (switch I mean). So talk to Dynamic and see what he's got to say. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Well the shift selector seal can be changed. what you got to do is drop the pan, filter and valve body. Now you can knock out the old seal with a hammer and screwdriver. Now to install the new seal use a long bolt and thick flat washer something that bend. On the bottom side you might need to use a second washer and deep socket. This will allow you to pull the new seal into place. As for the lines we have those for sale on the site here. The rest of the seals on the transmission I would talk to @Dynamic about it. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

I thought your moving?

Problem your going to have... The Pacbrake lockup controller will only work in 3rd and 4th gears so only highway speed will work for the exhaust brake. Now if you modify your valve body for 2nd gear lock up you can gain more ability of the exhaust brake. I would highly suggest talking with @Dynamic about this so you get the best function with the least amount of damage to the transmssion. I asked him about doing lock up switch and I remember him mention about lock up shift is harsh on the transmission. So I would suggest talking to Dynamic on this.

LOL. Not much to program on a 12V... http://dieselautopower.com/blog/p7100-incab-tuner/