Mopar1973Man

I known NAPA sell control arms fairly cheap. I'm installing a fresh set on a truck hoping to straighten out a front axle issue.

I had two different shops and myself hunting for my leak like I said mine happened to be the compressor front seal. As for the others I've dealt with like I said a seal kit typically rules out all connections which is a come spot to leak but hard to spot. As for adding dye I buy a 5 shot dye can from NAPA. Just hook it up to the low side hold for about 2 seconds on the trigger. Load it up with freon much cleaner and easier to deal with.

Just go into a NAPA store and ask for them.

This why I typically head for the seal kit first typically like $10 to $15 for seal and not hard to change and might get the leak in changing the seals. Also during change seal check the sizes too. I've seen some seal kit include just a random assortment of o-rings so make sure you don't install too small of a seal. Another common mistake. Make sure to oil all the new o-rings do not install dry. Don't use that leak stop freon. Another weird thing that is rare but is there enough oil in the system. If it running low from leaking then o-rings might not seal up properly. Funny I got called to the local body shop to look at a A/C system on a Infinity. It had been deer wrecked. Body shop had finish his work but need it recharged. I did find a leak in the system which was two fold. First the seals supplied with the condenser where too small and they were installed dry. After replacing with slightly bigger o-ring and pre-oiling the o-rings the was leak fixed. Sad the computer was screwed up and wouldn't start the compressor. Stupid dual zone computerized A/C.

I would take a flat file and smooth the nicks out of the crank then install a speedy sleeve and order a new seal to fit the sleeved crank. Poor man method would be to clean the nick up with a file and lightly sand the crank with light grit make sure there is no burrs then install the seal.

I've got a 5" straight pipe right here in New Meadows. It's so darn loud of a drone at 60-70 MPH you can't even talk in the cab. You need ear plugs. Seriously.

Remember compressed air isn't the same as freon so transferal of heat to cold isn't there. Typically the high side will be in the 150-190*F range with freon depending on high side pressures with freon. I would at this point just stop by a NAPA store and get a o-ring kit and replace all the o-rings on the system. Fairly easy. Just make sure to lube all seals before inserting or re-coupling the line together. Make sure all them click too. Sucks to charge a system to have a unlocked line and blow the freon and oil out of it. Oh.. My long chase on my truck turned out to be a bad compressor seal. After replacing the compressor all was good again. Never seen dye nor could I locate a leak around the compressor.

Now you learned a new trick...

Your correct on the seal placement. Just that I typically remove the cover and drive the seal in. Now take notice to the position of any old grooves. I'm sure there is. The plastic sleeve is to get the seal started over the crank once the cover is in place you pull the plastic sleeve out. Edit I didn't realize till now that seal is in backwards. No wonder it leaks.

Parker Push Lock fitting I normally place the fitting on the floor and using my body weight to push the hose on. Lot of people go through the trouble of hot water, lubing etc. I just just body weight and get a tight full push on the fitting every time.

Try me...

My self I would most likely opt to either buy some plexiglass and cut my own fender trims and paint them. Or another is to go to aluminum shop and get some nice diamond deck and cut that to fit. As for the plastic it is lighter but UV tend to make it brittle over time. Don't feel bad I've lost a door holder latch. The one on the driver side of the RV that holds the cargo door open.

No pipe dope is need on those fittings. I highly suggest against using pipe dope and sealant tapes on fuel system fittings because all it will take is small bit of teflon tape or pipe dope to get into the VP44 and plug a passage or gum up something. If it does make it past the VP44 then you have it in the edge filter of the cross over tubes or in the injector itself. Not a good thing period.

Enuf said...

Pretty home... Fire hazard though. (Sorry the fire fighter in me comes out.) All the debris piled in the valley of the roof, hanging moss in the trees (great for ladder fuels), trees in close proximity to the house, etc. All it take is one ember to drop in that pile on the roof or ground fire to climb a tree and light that moss... Poof! gone...

Should be able to print the entire page if need be... I know its not the exact year but should get the transmission stuff right.

This might help....

Heck we topped out at 75*F today at the house. I actually was driving around in the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with the air conditioning on. Go figure. @Buzzinhalfdozen I got to say that is a huge problem with "Global Warming". Might want to find Al Gore and have a sit down with him and discuss this "Global Warming".

Like my truck the only time I break above 195*F for any length of time is towing in the summer time with temp in the 100*F range. Other than that typically hold close to 195*F. So cooling factor really isn't an issue at least for me.

Valid point...

I typically just buy the NAPA brand stuff since that's all we got up here. I don't go out of my way to hunt for name brands or the OE stuff any more. Most of this stuff is all China made so it doesn't matter any more.

Right where the transmission meets the transfer case you'll see a groove from the shaft area down to the ground.

MN is snow Silver Bay, MN - N45.4663147 W92.7507563 New Meadows, ID - N44.9701276 W116.2921788 North / South relationship is about the same but I'm sitting here cooking to death at 66*F as I post this.

Valid point...

Time for you to climb out of the freezer... Wow! By next weekend I'll be mowing the lawn here. This weekend I've got to head up and turn on the water for irrigation.