Mopar1973Man

Few things to consider... Your a P7100 pump with no dynamic timing. Also your fuel management is based on your AFC and plat adjustments. Head design between myself and you where I'm 24V and you only a 12V engine air flow rates are different. So consider the bit of differences as well. But I don't see any reason you couldn't take the time and adjust everything to get a low smoke tune and get good power from it. Again make sure to ask for flow matching and pop testing within a percent range...

Here you go...

Not a problem as you found out just ask and we'll help you out...

Yes. It's fine to leave OFF. The software and tuning is disabled and the only function that remains is the boost fooler so it will not trip codes nor will it produce any issues.

I've seen several guys go through over 4-5 brand new alternators to just get one good one. Did you have it tested before you paid for it? Did you have the previous old alternator tested before you bought the new one? Do you test anything yourself using a DVM? If so what reading did you get? What happens if you unhook the field lead and remove the alternator fuse and go for drive?

I'm still using my HX35W turbo, 3" exhaust, and BHAF... Works good.

Just point of reference... I know the nozzle size is way different but a +50 HP injector on my 24V plus the Edge Comp I'm at... (Red marks are my high marks) So The Edge Comp is 120 HP plus the 50 HP injectors... Even adding it all up on calculator I'm getting 405 HP (235+120+50 = 405). Even my OBDLink LX shows nearly the same thing at the flywheel. I'm pretty sure you can use the +75 fairly easy +90 hp should work good too.

you can do a mild upgrade like +50 HP or +75HP if you wish or go back to strictly stock injectors your choice.

I know there is lot of vendors that just have boxes of injectors in stock and just chuck 6 is a shipping box with no testing, no matching or anything. It's just assumed everything is OK and should work OK. Thing is we both like to have the performance and everything as perfect as possible. Hence the questions. Now if the shop charges extra you know what would of happened.

I just bounced a grouse off my driver side headlight few evenings ago. No damage. Scared the crap out of me because I didn't see it till I heard the thud and the feathers flew up. Again in my case I was traveling slower than typical because of the dust hour.

Sweet looking pan. Now if your polished that aluminum and then spray a laquer coat on it you would have fake chrome.

I've seen deer clear the top of pickups. Like in my example a couple of deer come up from the river 2 made before the truck the 3rd one made huge leap and lightly tapped the canopy shell on the back as it came down. I watch this whole thing happen before me. I pulled over with the truck ahead and we were both shocked to see a deer jump so flippin' high...

Talk to Dynamic he would tell you...

@hex0rz Very impressive light bar. Just remember if its mounted above your factory headlights it not legal for the highway use as a rule of thumb. If it mounted below the headlights and you can aim the light bar properly then it can be used on the highway.

I work on all kinds of truck with different types bumpers and grill guards most without the little area like you talk about.

Now my question is... Are the injectors pop tested and flow match before shipping? At what value of percentage range?

I like those kinds of bumpers for protection but in the same token I hate them too. Being I work on trucks all the time darn ranch hand bumpers like that are PITA. You are now farther from the vehicle/engine can't reach anything. End up laying across the bumper and radiator support. They can be a killer on the body laying across this mess. The other thing I see is most that own grill guards or ranch hand bumpers tend to hit animal more often and the bumper is alway tweaked to the point that the hood/grill rubs as you open the hood and/or you fight to push the grill back carefully to now close the hood. So its more of the thought most have I've got a beefy bumper I can drive as fast as I want and bounce deer off now still I'm the one dealing with the tweaked bumpers and trying to get hoods open. Kind of like the guy yesterday he had a grill guard as well and was driving way too fast for the time knowing there is deer and elk out in the evening hours. The people that don't have then drive more cautious and to this day have not hit deer and if so were driving slow enough no to do damage. I've kind of want one but I know how heavy they are and they add a lot more weight to a front axle that is already in the 4,400 to 4,500 pound range already. Lot of things to consider....

I've never seen them out right fail either... I lost my RV275 at a pop pressure of 240 bar and they became very pissy and popping way early in time so that tend to knock more. When it was idling and getting pissy it would miss pretty good. Thing is about failure it could potentially fail a single injector like we both experienced and the rest are running dangerously thin. Cheapest route would be to get new nozzles but after having them pop tested and tuned now you might be at the same cost of total replacement of all injectors. Common rail engine only need one bad injector and it can prevent it from starting. 12V and 24V engine one injector will impact performance but I've not heard of it preventing starting. Maybe loss of prime...

You looking to replace all 6 they are wore for sure. Sorry I for some reason had it my head that you just replace the injectors and where low mileage so that why the pop testing angle. Now know the truth that they have 300k miles on them you pushing you luck. I've done a set of RV275 from CajFlynn for free had the pop tested at +400k miles and they lasted for another year after cleaning and pop test.

Good ol' KATOOM out to stir the pot up for someone...

What??? The diesel state of the nation and there isn't a diesel shop near you??? I'm in the center of Idaho in the middle of no man's land and have a good diesel shop just 2 hours away and have them pop tested for free in the very same day. Be back home and install by evening. Just doing a quick search I've found several diesel injection shops that are near you. All we are asking for is verify the pop pressure and spray pattern. (No tuning). But since you found #6 now its a choice of replace the injectors or have the one pulled and looked at and inspected. If they are low mileage yet you could still have the pop tested and retuned if there is no damage.

Glad your home safe and sound...

I'm still on the fence about the Luke's Links. I know it works but I see people on CF that fight the Luke's Link with constantly needing to adjust the device to keeping the joint's tight. Here I am still with OEM tie rod ends at 264k miles and rolling. I might have good luck with them being my steering appears to have littler wear issues compared to many other that seen to wear everything out in a few months time. Like coming down from Billy and Tony's place. Offroad quite a bit...

I finally beat my old MPG high mark of 27.20 now done it twice with 27.22 and 27.46 MPG. Just need that little bit more to go to reach 28 MPG.

I've got NAPA 3" flow through muffler and its quiet running as is. Larger pipe your 4" is adding extra noise too.