Mopar1973Man

Think of all the times people have run there batteries dead and jump started the truck and drove on. Nothing happens just the range of throttle might be affected but most don't even notice.

On reason I do my own work on my vehicles. I know JAG1 will NOT recommend me to work on anything. I'm too slow, dropping bolts in the intercooler, drinking beer on the job.

Remember live data and dash data are always going to match. You need to use a IR temp gun on the sensor or install anothe temp gauge to see differences. Like Dripley has a dash gauge that reads low (160-180*F) but his aftermarket gauge show 190-195*F. Which create weird issues because the ECM uses that data. But of course if he hooked up a live data tool it would show the same low temp reading as the dash. Does the ECT and IAT match on cold morning start up? ECT controls idle so if the ECT is colder than normal the idle will be higher. Double check your Timbo's calibration make sure you not in the throttling position. If so the ECM will most likely idle in that 1000 RPM bracket too.

I know Dynamic can set you up.

That is alternator noise issues. All you have to do is alter RPM and the problem goes away. Not so much APPS but frequency of the noise created by the alternator.

Idle is controlled by coolant temperature so if you thermostat is cold and not making full 190*F of temperature then the idle will be high. High idle will go up to 1,200 RPM but impossible to have while driving. If coolant is over 140*F it will never re-arm again.

It would help a bunch to make sure there is no debris or high spots in the crank. Like your little dings in the tip I would take a machine file and knock them down a bit. Take some emery cloth and "lightly" sand the crank where the sleeve is going. This just makes sure there is no residue or damaged metal to hang up your installation.

Even in my mess... That was a stock 40A fuse for that circuit. Didn't take it long to let the magic smoke out of the wires...

I kept the needle valve and snubber together for a fall back reason. This way if there is any problems you can shut down the gauge line and keep on truckin'... So consider failure problems.

I'm towing close to 8,000 pound typically. I'm just a small +50 HP injector still running HX35W turbo with no EGT's issues even with 3" straight pipe exhaust (muffled). Take your pick.... I'm just on the west side of the state. Normal forestry grades can be 16% or so. No issues.

Oh... Yeah WOT is different story... Just for fun I'll post today WOT run in New Meadows today... (Notice the red markers noting high mark) Edge Comp (5x3), +50 HP Vulcan Performance Injectors, Straight Pipe 3" (muffled), BHAF...

I hate to say it... But... Now I've done this for several friends watching what I do. I can have a trailer in tow, start climbing a grade with the Edge Comp on 5x3, cruise set for 55 MPH. Now in the middle of the climb all I would do is turn OFF the Edge Comp completely and pyrometer will not change. There will be a slump in power the cruise will apply throttle again to resume holding 55 MPH and you'll find the pyrometer just about unchanged. So no matter what you do the Edge Comp doesn't make the EGT's hotter it still fuels the same amount GPH flow rate wise to hold the same cruise control speed hauling the same weight.

I would say the LED strip is bad and drawing to much amperage. 16 Amp x 12 Volts = 192 Watts. That's like my pair of aircraft landing lights on the front of my truck 100w a piece...

Holy cow it was put in the right way. I don't understand all the sealant smeared into the face.

LOL. I get a chuckle out of this. Funny thing is I working on a 2nd Gen I was assuming had something bent in the control arms. Axle placement is odd. Well I stop by a local wrecking yard and the guys had the same issue could pull the control arms off an axle. Never the less the one side the torched it and still didn't move. Owner said screw it and bought brand new arms. I got luck on this truck all the bolts where lubed with axle grease so they came out easy. I will note that to watch the adjustment cam and make sure they are located properly (left to right side). This truck some had them out of sync left to right. Also during assembly all bolts got a shot of anti-seize.

You must be doing something wrong for inflation. Running load range E's on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 no issues. Very smooth ride even on washboard roads. 43 PSI front and 34 PSI rear.

I can't speak for Smarty. I'm pretty sure that Smarty does not download the entire flash file. That takes quite a bit to do after seeing it done on a 6.7L. So I would have to assume that when returned to stock Smarty flashes with it own update.

Actually ECM. PCM does nothing with the Oil Pressure value. The ECM reads the data and transmits the data on the CCD Network. It's up to the Instrument cluster to listen for the data and display the data as the cluster is programmed to. PCM doesn't have any connection to the sender so it can't process the data.

I love my ISSPro EV2's no amplifier...

OBDII code reader and use the ERASE feature. There is no other way to erase codes. Not even disconnecting the batteries will work.

Something to take notice to... Look at the pictures again the seal is installed backwards. Front side. That the back side lip. Backisde...

Basically the same stuff. I like those too but those are a single shot can. Once the top is punctured your committed to discharging the entire can before you can remove it from your freon hose. That why I like the 5 shots over the singles. For John purpose it would work.

Already done...

Here is my current project. (Not my truck) NAPA OE Control arms and a nice set of Bilstein Shocks. So I would say go back to stock control arms easy to get and they lasted a good long time. This happens to be 2001 Dodge not a 3rd Gen but... Same job...

Not always will you have the pleasure of opening up a system to add dye. At least with the can I do not have to open the system. I can add dye without having to pull a vacuum and wasting exist freon. Might be expensive but lots easy that the bottle you posted. If you system is dry then I would uncouple the low side line at the accumulator and pour it in the line. Couple back up and recharge. Remember I work all makes and models of vehicles with A/C so can stuff is universal and easy.