Mopar1973Man

Like this picture. Heavy red with fuse is my fog lights, red wire without fuse is AirDog, black with fuse is cab accessories. Cover goes back on and the batteries are clean and don't have four tons of cables tied to the positive post. Much much clean under the hood. WARNING! Do not use the other stud. If the alternator fuse should happen to blow the PCM with crank up the field voltage attempting to charge the batteries but can't because of the fuse is OPEN. Any device tied to the alternator lead will most likely be damaged or destroyed electrically when the voltage spikes out over 20 Volts. This why I warn people about the old method of wiring the AirDog to the alternator which is a very bad idea...

That's funny... I was talking to @Taz he's coming Thursday for his ISSPro gauges I order him. He's made the comment "I better close my mouth now or we'll be doing 2 transmissions". @IBMobile That makes sense being there is no grinding. Got all the other gears just 3rd and 4th are out. Thanks guys you giving my the confidence to dive into this.

Like myself I'm running wide open on my Edge Comp (5x3). I'm only using the sublevel 3 for smoke control. Light right foot, low boost, low EGT's net the highest MPG's. S like my previous post about more aggressive the tuner the better the MPG is true.

Thanks for the comments... I'll look into and see how much damage or carnage happened.

That would drive me crazy. Being it's my first rebuild. I'd be afraid to use my truck then. I wouldn't trust my first attempt rebuild to travel long distances. Like my first engine rebuild I won't leave the valley with that truck for a long time because I didn't trust it. If I get my act together tomorrow I could have it yanked out and open it up and see what happened. I'm curious of what failed. I'm pretty sure its a bearing and the shaft moved and the gears are not lining up now...

I've never done any transmission work ever... So its a gamble with poor odds of success for me.

Suggestion... Master Battery Feed hook it up in the PDC not to the battery. This way the wire never deals with corrosion issues.

Heck I'll have mine out on the shop floor by tomorrow. Making phone calls and getting transmission sent to Boise. 6 hours be back home and ready to stuff back together. Strange part is I'm pretty anal about monthly fluid checks and dealing with things as they come. This caught me blind sided and NV4500 just crapped the bed. But a rather common failure... https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=nv4500+3rd+and+4th+gear+missing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Heck I'll have mine out on the shop floor by tomorrow. Making phone calls and getting transmission sent to Boise. 6 hours be back home and ready to stuff back together. Strange part is I'm pretty anal about monthly fluid checks and dealing with things as they come. This caught me blind sided and NV4500 just crapped the bed. But a rather common failure... https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=nv4500+3rd+and+4th+gear+missing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

@TFaoro What do you got to lose? Why not if they are willing to take your old transmission for some cash for core I would jump on it. Funny I got home and MoparMom telling hit your network of people get some information. I've got to give @MUDDY over at http://idahoturbodiesels.com the credit. I called him and he told me to call "Six States Distributing". When I heard the price I'm even thinking that's a bill even I can swallow. Being there is a Boise office why not I can get it yanked out in a few hours and be down in Boise picking one up and slamming back in. Again I'm glad it happen here at home... I guess this goes along with CSM "Burn out before I leave" POW!!! All you can say is a few choice words and deal with it.

Even on my 46RE on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 it has a drain hole. Weird part is it mounted with a gasket but not really needed. So during assembly I just married them back together and not bothered with any sealants or gasket. It will be the same on the NV4500. I'll take the time and dump the transfer case and everything and clean up everything I can.

I'm curious where this is getting mounted...

All I can say I'm glad it blew up here and not out on a summer RV trip that would piss me off to no end knowing I would be at the mercy of any shop I get towed to. Most likely have high prices, crappy install, no way to claim warranty on the work. At least here at home I know I can get the R&R done myself and know its done right.

Bad part is having all the special tools to deal with bearings. I'd already asked @Dynamic about doing it and like he mention there is special tools for some of the bearings and such. You have to be able to split the shaft up and get new syncro's, bearings on the ends etc. I would if the core core was a few hundred I would just buy a new one attempt to fix this one. When the core is $1,530 and the transmission is $1,500 I'm not going to sacrifice $1,530 for core so I can gamble a rebuild and lack of knowledge the odd are against me and my pockets are already empty.

The the truck I trailered back to the owner was a 6 speed I really don't like it. Row out 4 gears to get to 30 MPH the 5th and 6th which is the same at the NV4500. Like in my 5 speed I row out 1st to 3rd gear to get to 30 MPH then got 4th (1:1) and 5th (0.75) that are the same as the NV5600 (5th is actually 0.73)or G56. I'll keep the 5 speed. I never in a million year thought my transmission would wipe 3rd and 4th. It like the bearing failed the shaft is moved and the gears don't quite make it. They still tick like they attempt to but nothing. I've seen rebuild kits for $350 or so. I just don't have the knowledge of manual transmissions to dive in. Jon said he's done a few but not really set up to rebuild them properly. Dang! That man there is Automatic Guru.

Just feeding the fire over here "Six States Distributing" has NV4500 transmissions for $1,500.00 but with a $1,530 core. Don't feel bad I just wiped out 3rd and 4th gear on my truck. 1st, 2nd, 5th and Reverse still work fine. KInd of bad timing but good... At least it happened near home, I had a trailer in tow so just did a bit a rig swapping and got trailered home. I've got my friend coming from Washington Thursday so we'll have a wrench party. Install his new ISSPro gauges sitting here and then drop the transmission out of my truck and go to Boise pick up there other one. Hopefully I can get one into Boise quick enough while I got hands here. So my thread is split over here...

Hua? Who else killed a transmission?

261k miles and my NV4500 finally died. Not the 5th gear nut. I lost both 3rd and 4th gear. I was just leaving my place pulling the trailer back to New Meadows, ID with the a truck on the deck. Got into 3rd and the stick was rattling oddly. Poured the fuel to her to get rolling and it popped out of gear. Difficult to get into 4th. I knew the transmission had lost a bearing or something. Got up to New Meadows flats and check everything over no leaks. 1st gear works fine, 2nd gear works fine, 3rd pushing against you and BANG! Then tried 4th its missing. Rowed to 5th and barely had enough power to get the truck going. I had another 5-6 miles to go before cell service. I got a hold of the owner of the trailer and truck and told him to meet me at the 45th parallel. So we swapped truck and and loaded mine up and I got trailed home. I know Jon (Dynamic Transmissions) doesn't do manuals but I still asked if he knew of anyone. I talked to Muddy of Idaho Turbo Diesels he told me to call Six States Distributing. So I called there main office and they can get me a NV4500 for $1500.00 with a $1530.00 core. (Holy Crap Core Price!) So I found out Six States has a Boise Office but just missed them they are closed. Just for fun I called NAPA and there price was $2359.00 with a $484.00 core. No go there... Funny I didn't break the input shaft because I still got 1st, 2nd, 5th and Reverse. Just 3rd and 4th are gone.

Depends when you look at the transmission is just the same old 727 from back in the 1960s and 1970s and just added 4th gear to it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueFlite

I'm sure your MPG will fall for the first few month as you play with the new found power. After the newness wears off then you'll buckle down and get tuning to get the MPG's.

I just had one do the same thing tripping that code and found the battery temp sensor was unplugged. So verify there is no broken wires or the sensor is unplugged. As for high charging voltage double check the green wire and verify its not shorted to ground. I've seen a few cases where this happened and creates a runaway alternator.

Also take a look a the springs too! Springs over time will degrade in pulling strength so it might not be strong enough to pull the shoes back in. Most parts stores set hardware kits for drum brakes that typically replaces everything spring wise. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BHH0/H2314/01271.oap?year=2000&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B3500%2BVan&vi=1434797&ck=Search_01271_1434797_-1&pt=01271&ppt=C0064

Retirement,,, He's counting down...

I use orange degreaser from Home Depot to set my boots up. It extremely slick while wet but becomes sticky after it dry. The boots really are a PITA to get back off. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Heavy-Duty-Citrus-Degreaser-ZUCIT128/100676344

I've got a bird crap welder. I need something I'm not going to fight welding that back up ad grinding for hours to straighten back out. So I'll get a professional local welder to do it.