Mopar1973Man

Sounds like a near truck. OP could you post up the year of truck we are talking about. As for reading codes I highly suggest you find a actual code reader. Some of those code reader tuners are rather weak at seeing pending codes. Stop by a auto part store and see if you can get someone to read the error codes for you.

Here is the tablet (closest to mine) http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=9098499 Then the OBDLink LX Dongle https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-lxbt/ Then the Android App https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=OCTech.Mobile.Applications.OBDLink&hl=en I personally gave up the ScanGauge II because of its lack of logging data and limited display. The ScanGauge II is now living its retirement in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. As for the OBDLink will work with anything mobile wise or even a laptop with bluetooth. Now you have much better way of logging changes and effects of your tuning. I love the fact it logs all my fuel mileage day by day. You can graphically record any sensor you want.

My Dad bought a 1976 Dodge Jamboree Class C motohome. I bought it from him in 1993. When I got it he had all the paper work in the cabinet above the fridge. It been back to the dealer over 7 different times if I remember right. Also the oven valve had a propane leak that flash fire his face once lightly the front stove burner. There was several issues with wiring, stereo, propane leaks, cold start of the engine. Ownership of the Jamboree I had to rebuild the interior ceiling from a water leak, new carpeting, replaced the plumbing (water supply), 2 water pumps, rebuild the wet bath floor (water leak). Remove the oven valve could replace because it was too old. At the point of the trade in I lost the rear main seal on the engine at 60k miles so I was no looking forward to having to figure out how do that in a van head body. Then fight to replace the rear brake wheel cylinders on a 400 Dodge frame the drum are heavy! So I trade that Jamboree in on the 2000 Jayco Eagle in 2010 and the only things I've down is brakes on a front axles. 2 sets of tires now, and re done the roof with DiCor coating. Then added the solar and inverter. More or less all I got is clean up the RV, fill propane bottles and a water tank and yearly packing the wheel bearings. One reason I got a trailer and not a motorhome. So now you kind of see why I'm not really a new person plus reading other RV forums also and seeing the back and forth trips too. Some people get lucky and other OMG get absolute lemons for RV's.

From what I understand is more timing. @apache64 is telling me that his Edge Comp is flat on top end and hoping to skew the timing to give more top end.

You find the rheostats are extremely sensitive to movement. Easiest way to hand this is plug in a live data tool like my OBDLink and either using a rheostat or resistors and adjust to temperature you would like to try. The I would suggest getting a fixed value resistor so it not going to change.

That is true. You can gain a small amount of control but it will always advance and retard based on other factors too. Kind of like the MPG fooler give a bit of adjustment by fooling to imitate summer conditions in winter.

Basically in a nuts shell the CCD lines (pair) should have 2.49 volts and 2.51 volts at idle communications. So if one or both lines are shorted to ground, 5V or 12V then the entire network fails. So check this first you've got the wiring diagram already and it shows the pins for the CCD network in the OBDII socket. Common spot to look is aftermarket stereo installs gone wrong where the CCD network is exposed to ground. Another is a failed module that is shorting out the network. Way to test for that is systematically remove each module one at a time by unplugging and seeing if the CCD network returns.

Steering wheel controls are not lighted. Door controls yes are light from 98.5 and up.

I still say get in contact with Dynamic and talk to him. Some of you might need adjustments to your bands... Who knows??? Dynamic...

All I can say is I will suggest you buy used RV. Most new RV's tend to have a few runs back and forth to the dealer with all kinds of miscellaneous issues from roof leaks, plumbing issues, electrical even propane. If you will to deal with that go for it. Now if you do consider buying new then I highly suggest you do some close to home camping till you feel confident of the RV and make sure there is no issues.

There is no water jacket below the water pump through. If you remove the oil cooler the bottom of the jacket is right there. Water pump is at the bottom... So for Dorkweed yes you would end up draining the entire system so you don't spill coolant.

I've got a 06 in the yard right now and its low on the block like mine. As far as I know the water jacket bottom is at the water pump. Like a lot of folks do is pull the water pump out to drain the block out because it is the lowest drain point for 24V.

Is it that much higher? I thought they where down low in the jacket...

Might as well drain the entire system being the water pump is near the bottom of the water jacket.

You could go over and ask High Gear Transmissions. http://highgeartransmission.com/ Or... Abe at Weller Truck (208) 331-1061

So does mine... Even the OBDLink shows the same. With a little help from Nick I'll get it figured out and be able to display it.

That was one I want to start with is be able to get corrected data and provide a true boost reading. I know it can be done already just need to figure it out...

Hunting for hidden data that the VP44, ECM, PCM, ABS, SRS, etc might be talking over the bus and being able to read this hidden data. Later on like after 04.5 it seem most OBDII PID data is consistent. Our trucks have a bunch of hidden data and everyone is tight lipped about it. Just for example there is a PID for reading oil pressure. As far as I know I've never seen any OBDII tool being able to read it. Now DRBIII tool can display it which plugs into the OBDII port under the dash. Just like DRBIII tool can see the ABS speed sensors. I've seen another tool that plugs in that can see ABS sensors as well but I didn't get the name of it. This was on my visit to Module Masters to read ABS codes. So I'm on the hunt of the hidden data in the Dodge Ram Trucks. So first thing is to understand how the common data is read and then start probing around looking for data that is readable. Like PID 8C I'm still rather puzzled about a two byte worth of data way out there. Like a simple project creating a boost gauge that is accurate like Edge Juice or Quadzilla has not the funky MAP sensor data I've currently got that worthless.

I got bold and started digging deeper into it. Found out you can call out 0140 and 0180 for more PID and see what's available. As you'll see I called 0140 and got no data. Just check back and see if everything was working yet I called 0100 and got a reply again. So then called out 0180 and got another 2 byte reply which is 90 and 18 hex. So back to conversion to binary... 90 hex = 1001 0000 18 hex = 0001 1000 So lay it out again long string... 1001 0000 0001 1000 So PID 81, 84, 8C and 8D are present. Unknown what data they hold. I also check the 01A0 and 01C0 ranges and there is no data response for both. I'm sure curious of the data in the 80 range... Ok. So after probing the mystery PIDs... 14 - No Data either key on or running 1D - No Data either key on or running 81 - Return 0 no change if key on or running 84 - No Data either key on or running 8C - Returned 0 with key on but then returned 12. So I checked its returning 2 bytes of data. Varies with RPM of the engine. Using (256*A)+B I get a number ranging from about 3,500 to 11,000... 8D - Return 0 no change key on or running. I'm really curious of what the 8C PID is now.

Ok gang... I'm going to share a few tidbit of information for advance OBDII tinkering. If you happen to have a OBDLink or ELM327 tool you should be able to tag along here. I will have to give a bit of thanks to @Me78569 for getting me started with the Bluetooth terminal on Android. Once I had that I could directly communicate with the OBDLink and pass commands to it. So starting out I passed the command... ATSP0 This basically tells the tool to communication with the detected protocol of the vehicle ours happens to be ISO 9141-2 protocol. After that I passed the command... 0100 Which happens to be PID Mode 01 with the PID 00 which tells the vehicle to report back which ODBII PID are available. It returns back. 41 00 98 3A 80 14 41 00 90 18 80 14 At this point the hexadecimal bytes you want are 98, 3A, 90, 18... So now you need to take these 4 bytes on convert them to binary. 98 = 1001 1000 3A = 0011 1010 90 = 1001 0000 18 = 0001 1000 So now lay it all out in one long string. This is counting 20 hex (32 dec) from left to right. 1001 1000 0011 1010 1001 0000 0001 1000 So you have counting only the high bit (1's)... 01 - MIL Status Light 04 - Engine Load 05 - Coolant Temperature (11) 0B - Manifold Pressure (12) 0C - RPM (13) 0D - MPH (15) 0F - Intake Temperature (17) 11 - APPS Sensor (20) 14 (Unknown yet) (28) 1C - OBD Compliance should report 05 hex. (29) 1D - (Unknown yet) NOTE: (number) is decimal... Just for the human side for counting placement. ECM/PCM use the hexadecimal values only. Now if you want to add any of these as a custom gauge. Module/Header: 486 OBD Mode: 01 PID Number: (Any of the above will work use only the Hex number not the decimal) Priority: Leave on High Equation: Look it up on Wikipedia at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs

Still got the OEM water pump yet at 263k miles. @joecool911 is right these are very simple water pumps with the 2 bolts and a o-ring. Just make sure to clean the hole up with a bit of sandpaper and grease the hole slightly to prevent damage to the o-ring during install.

Don't get me wrong in my daily travels I ran thee truck down to 1/8 of tank many of times but still traveling to my destination. As for around home I'm always getting fuel at 1/2 tank and keeping it filled up.

Torque converter lockup issues is a alternator problem. Most likely what killed the last VP44.

If there is still priming issues I would loosen the fitting at the V44 inlet and verify there is fuel at the VP44. Now there is just the air pocket in the pump at the worse. As for the nut on the injection lines I've been known to spin then all the off so you looking at the exposed the joint. That way you can see if there is pressure or dribble of fuel. Yes its possible for VP44 to fail without codes.

Basically a sudden rise of RPM during a shift. Kind of like being slow to release the clutch on a manual transmission.