Mopar1973Man

Original engine never been rebuilt. True... But he did use petroleum oils and changed at a interval of 20k miles. Chevron Del 15w-40 year round and Fleetgaurd filters. So we might not use the truck the same but to push near 3 times a stock oil change interval and clear 1.3 million miles is very impressive. Back in the early years I never really had them drain back I use to unscrew them and have the filter head dump all over my hand. Now it seem they all tend to drain back below the filter head. @AH64ID you know of any changes in the drain back valve assembly? For others here @AH64ID could you explain in detail the best you can about TBN values... Please.

Optimally one at a time is best. Outside the truck is best because equalizing makes the batteries gassy so paint damage may occur.

I would just unhook the battery cables from the batteries. This way there is no chance that high voltage will cause problems to the electronics.

I would just unhook the battery cables from the batteries. This way there is no chance that high voltage will cause problems to the electronics.

Sound like a power valve problem internally. (Educated guess)

An article I read last night about "gorilla juice" was that is was twice as thick as the original NV4500 fluid because of its mixture.

Being that Weller Truck (Boise, ID) dyno's the transmission with 50 WT. Then like High Gear suggest Mobil Delvac 50 WT for there rebuilt transmissions. Now Abe (@ Weller Truck) did suggest finding 75w-90 as another solution but problem finding it in a GL-4 grade. I finding lots of GL-5 but none in the GL-4 category. As for finding people using 75w-90 GL-4 I didn't find many shops or people using that fluid. Just the net right now is a stir of all kinds of ideas and thoughts. I've seen some running synthetic 5w-30 engine oil. Some using the 50 SAE transmission fluid, then Quad 4x4 and it's Redline.

No I'm not planning on it. The problem is the carbon fiber syncro's and shift performance. That's the only reason for the Castrol Syntorq. The rest of the transmission there is nothing special about bearing, gears, etc. So the 2 requirements is GL-4 lubricants and something that will work with the carbon fiber syncros. Even if I went with brass syncros I'd still have to stay with GL-4 lubricant for the sole reason of the GL-5 problem and yellow metals. When you read up on GL-x rating you see there is actually GL-1 to GL-6 rating. GL-4 is the only thing that doesn't react to yellow metal but high enough rating for a transmission to use.

Back to limited availablity. I only know of one place in ontario, OR that sells Red line products. That's just as bad as buying the old Mopar fluid. Figure with fuel and travel its nearly $200 a gallon with 6 hours of drive time.

Look like 50wt is going to be good selection for my nv4500 might be good one for your g56 transmission.

Thanks CSM... I watch that and pulled up another and what I think was so cool about his video is he admits to buying cheap Chinese tools because he rather buy cheap tools so he's got more money for cool parts...

Exactly. That's what I'm looking at... Even if I cut my fluid change interval back and changed it more often it still cheap. From Mobil's spec sheet... Ours requires the GL-4 lubricant. 500k change intervals... I'll still do 100k most likely.

Nice article. I kind of thumbed over quickly and a lot of good information on a general level.

Fuel pressure? Error Codes?

It's a Mopar video but for the older vehicles but does explain the valve quite well...

Holy crap... Wow!

Our Comedian... I'm curious of the angle you used. Might prove useful for people locally wanting to tone down noise or tone.

Here we are back to nearly $500 for a tool again...

Little secret if you resolve the light issue and roll forward even 20-40 feet the light will go out on their own. The codes will remain. So in your case you've not resolve the code so now when you start rolling again the light will pop back on soon. Currently mine are still on but I know the tone ring in both hubs are the issue but I got bigger fish to fry like reinstalling a transmission. How are you talking with the OBDII port with what device.

There is a couple of things I'm trying to stay away from high price synthetics which AMSOIl happens to be one of the most expensive. Then having mail order everything because getting things shipped here seem to take forever. I'm looking for a common place replacement fluid that not having to special order or ship to the house. Like RedLine is another I could run but again very limited supply locally.When Abe said 50 WT Synthetic GL-4 I knew right away what type that was. I also verified by asking again the transmission fluid which he said yes. Reason its only sold in 5 gallon buckets because Eaton/Fuller transmissions are pretty big and take quite a bit of fluid. What I'm getting at if this works out then there will be a common fluid that is way way cheaper than AMSOil. Last quotes I got was like $108-180 for 5 gallon pail I sure that has beat AMSOil hands down in price. Also I can have it on my door step by tonight if I order it. I've got a free freight system from the local NAPA. Dave it still a synthetic just not a AMSOIl... I fine with using synthetics but I've learned that you don't have to buy a name brand and pay name brand prices. AMSOIl being one of the most expensive lubricants around. Also all of it has to be mail ordered. There is the two minuses in the AMSOil line I personally don't like. I don't want to wait weeks for fluids to come nor pay high price for fluid because the label says AMSOil. Also the 5 gallon pail will give me 5 transmission fills. Takes 1 gallon to fill totally full on a NV4500. So $27 to $45 a GALLON still way cheaper than Castrol Syntorq at $23 to $27 a QUART! Locally available in most NAPA store, price is lower, can't ask for anything more...

Years ago back in the stone age most diesel owners had electric pumps to pressure the oil system before start for this issue. I don't even remember the name of the common unit but here is a marine pre-oiler for same reason. Ask yourself how many people have these? Then how many oil related failures are there from startup? If you are really worried you can install a system like this... https://www.cpperformance.com/products/Oil/engine-pre-lube.htm Another idea... http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/132630-Is-it-possible-to-prime-a-Cummins-oil-pump?p=1238843#post1238843

Too late I'm getting carbon fiber again. If I knew this before I would of opted for brass. Still in all the 50 WT is good for these syncros too.

It's all there is just in the matter of setting up everything.

Oil pressure sensor is on the driver side of the block after the oil filter.