Mopar1973Man

Sublevels are design to give 3 levels of smoke control. Problem as you enter the defuel mode it seem to lose the timing and performance bonuses in the defuel mode at least on my truck. Once above the defuel mode now the timing and everything seem to be in full swing. Sublevels 4 and 5 are powered levels with little to no limits on fuel and timing so it much more aggressive. @TFaoro is right the main level is just limiting you max fuel at WOT. That's all...

The one piece system do not guarantee an air free install either. Typically the cost more and you end up re-bench bleed them too because of handling issues. I would rather get the separate pieces and assemble myself and bleed myself knowing the job was done right.

I would go up it 5x3 or 5x4. Trying to stay out of the defuel mode more. Sublevel 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost pressure. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost pressure. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost pressure. 4. Some extra fuel at low boost. 5. Full fuel at 0 PSI boost pressure. With that being said 5x5 typically netted me the highest being there was no defuel map also was the hardest because it was up to me to hold back on the throttle till about 10 PSI at then lay into the throttle. Correction I missed one value...

Doesn't guarantee noise free power. They are nice big alternators typically a single wire. Still have no battery temperature compensation so battery life is shorter and diodes still fail in those as well.

I'm sure you'd heavily fined now by a DOT inspector if your caught removing front brake system today.

Absolutely true... 14.5 Volts x 140 Amps = 2,030 Watts (heat) So now upgrade to 200 Amp... 14.5 Volts x 200 Amps = 2,900 Watts (heat) So where is this heat going to be dumped? Right across the diode pack. The whole problem is every one is putting bigger and bigger alternators in that just means more and more heat generated. The only way around it is high quality diodes on a oversized heatsink... But there is still going to be quite a bit of heat generated on the diodes from switching.

Not exactly something I suggest doing but in a pinch it will get you home if you know what your doing. I've practise with my truck off and on and very capable of rowing up and down without a clutch at all. Just need the clutch to launch beyond that I can float all the gears up or down. Again this is not something I suggest...

I was speaking generally. Not all vendors are the same but some do matching before shipping and some don't. Still I want ask for both pop and flow matching before shipping.

Only if you specify you want it done. Of course there might be added price because of this... Other than that 6 random injectors typically go in a box.

Basically 7 holes with each hole being 0.012" in size. So it would be fairly large nozzle. So like 5 x 0.012 would be the same size holes but only 5 holes which ends up being smaller. I've seen every thing from 5 to 7 holes so far but holes sizes could vary greatly. In the past it was rated on approximate HP gains now its mostly how may holes and how big. Tidbit to help.. http://www.wattsshopperformance.com/Injector_sizes.html

MPG is based how fine of a mist you can spray with the nozzle size you select. Make it more interesting is being able to burn as much as possible at very low boost pressures (less than 5 PSI). So this emphasizes more so on nozzle quality. So if you getting injectors I would highly suggest you have the pop tested and flow match for the batch you purchase. Now just 6 random injectors pull off the shelf and stuff in a box.

Still running highway speed limits and you'll see mixed towing and empty driving. Fuel logs for June... Yes that 13.8 was my firewood run. 9.2 was just moving the truck in the yard a short distance.

Even buying the part separated from Autozone you can do it for $95... that's a $55 dollar saving do it your self and bleeding the system out before you install it. http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-master-cylinder/duralast-clutch-master-cylinder/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2002/6-cylinders-6-5-9l-turbo-diesel/426195_0_0/?checkfit=true http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-slave-cylinder/duralast-clutch-slave-cylinder/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2002/6-cylinders-6-5-9l-turbo-diesel/426213_0_0/

Not to mention change of wiring harness.

I'll agree city water and chemicals that treat the water can be problematic.

Check under the dash for fluid leaks at the push rod of the clutch pedal.

Wow. Impressive. Mostly highway miles I gather? I average about 30,000 to 40,000 for set of tires typically. The dirt roads ten to eat them up plus heavy chip coating out here.

Also check your shop floor for this little ball to see if it rolled away somewhere if you dropped it by chance.

Another 130 mile run including a 7% grade that is 7 miles long. I was not towing this trip just the truck. The weather outside is extremely hot at 104*F. Kept with posted speed limits the whole trip there and back. The most I've seen for transmission temperature was 165*F for brief time going over the grade. The rest of the trip it floated 158-162*F more or less a needle width below or above 160*F.

As current flow increases so do the AC voltage. There is still frequency that you have to consider but can't meaure.

Well here is a song I enjoy from my personal archive. I've got a weird taste in music...

Ok... As for the PCM did you do any wiring mods or AC noise filters or voltage regulators (transmission)? If so make sure the power lead is still connected to the PCM. I've ran across @pepsi71ocean that his brother installed his voltage regulator for the transmission wrong and cut the power wire to the PCM. So this causes a weird issue of when the blower motor comes on the NO buss message and the transmission goes into limp mode (unlocks) and then as soon as you turn off again it goes back to working normally. So double check any and all wiring modifications you have. If you need to remove then from the PCM and return to stock form and see if thing work better.

Typically you need a fairly expensive meter like a Fluke or SnapOn that cane read as low a 2V scale or lower on the AC side. I see lots of cheap DVM in hardware stores for $10 to 20 and only measure in the 200 volt range this is not low enough it must have a 2V AC or 200mV AC setting.

Fan clutch is loaded with a thick oil it normal when cold to hear the fan locked for the first say 1/4 miles then unlock. Mine does the same thing most in the colder winter days. My fan clutch locks up typically around 208-210*F the stays locked as it falls to 195*F or close to it then unlocks. I've only had one time that scared me the fan didn't lock till 218*F come to find out the thermostatic coil on the clutch was all buggered up with packed dirt and dust. Too much dirt road traveling. I will mention anyone that is attempting to use water other than distilled and its known city treated I would be very cautious of that. Chlorine and other things added to the water can already set the water for low pH making it corrosive natured from the get go. I've even used my well water during times when there was no irrigation water available. Still no issues with well either. The whole trick about it is my water here is very close to neutral pH level so there no corrosive nature to cause problem like distilled. Even though both sources of water have mineral in it it doesn't hurt nothing as long the water is not corrosive. Now like Riggins, ID city water I would not use that with a ten foot pole. I know that was start like already very heavily treated with chlorine and you can smell it in the water. As for the ppm of hardness of water. Again personally I don't think the hardness has anything to do with it. It has to do with pH of the water where people living in the city and using treated water already start out lower or higher than a pH 7 from chlorine treatment and already forcing the coolant to compensate for the pH correction giving shorter life to the coolant. Once the additive in the coolant is washed out the coolant can no longer hold up and scale blooms start to form as the metal start to corrode away. Since my water is rather neutral already it has no impact in the coolant since it does have to correct for pH. Again if mineral and dissolved solids where an issue then my radiator should of been packed tight by 14 years and 263k miles as you can see it did not happen and still will not happen. So if you in the city or know that your water is already offset from neutral pH then yes you will have to shift back to distilled water.

This should help... 0.010 to 0.030 normal good alternator. 0.050 and up is marginal... There is some people that report strange happenings at this level. 0.100 is a fail. The diodes are damaged and producing too much AC noise.