Mopar1973Man

Yeah... If it not coming up with speed and lagging for period before showing then the sensor is shot.

Must vary for year to year because there is no locking of my plug just pull. As for removing the sensor I'm going to bet you'll end up breaking it. Now don't panic. There is no sense in opening the differential you won't be able to reach the sensor hole. So what I did is continue to pry inward to relieve tension on the shell then pull it straight up with needle nose pilers.

I've already replaced all my pressure and suction lines to the new black hose from Eric @ Vulcan Performance. I still go the old school blue yet on the return line.

I'm also running a generic 16" wheel and tires hang out just about a inch from the fenders. I also lost my factory wheels to the same issue few years back where 3 of the 4 wheels where cracked and not leaking quite yet. Personally if I had the fund I would get a nicer set of wheels with proper offset being I'm getting tired of the mud flung my the tires all up the side of the truck and also sprays the RV behind me rather well right to the roof. I might not update to 17" or 18" for the sole reason I like to run a bit softer tire pressure when I'm out cutting firewood. Much easier on the truck and me not to get beat to death with the wash board roads and potholes. Where getting 17" and 18" the side profile gets shorter and shorter becomes easier to damage wheels now.

Either mechanical or electric either as long as its a stand alone.

Not even close to accurate. Just change the ECT sensor value and you can vary up or down pressure as much as 40 PSI and never actually change oil pressure. The last time I checked mine it was actually about 20-25 PSI higher than the dash gauge.

This is what got me for my choice on the NV4500 oils also being that Weller Truck highly suggest the 50 SAE Transmission fluid.

Here are some better quality pictures of the failed shaft...

TFaoro is right it just slide back and no longer mesh with the other gear. The other problem is most people can't tight it down to the correct torque no less too. So this why there is an issue with 5th gear nuts. Like with the updated shaft I learned it suppose to be torqued to 450 ft/lbs. I think the OEM shaft is somewhere in the 300 ft/lbs bracket. I've seen a bunch of YouTube Redneck fixes including hammer and chisel or a pipe wrench to tighten the nut back on. Like most will say to upgrade the main shaft. If your going that far you might as well do fresh bearings and syncros. I've just went down this road with a rebuilt of the transmission.

I got it all done and installed just before 4pm. Did my strap trick again. Worked good. So two ratchet straps to lift it off the floor. Then once I was able to roll the floor jack under it. Take notice to the ratchet strap over the top tied to the pivot of the jack. Ended up being the perfect angle to install. Still kept the other two ratchet straps as safety just in case. As for cleaning up everything I found a degreaser that is super strong. Be careful using it on aluminum it will blacken the aluminum if left on too long. 3,000 PSI power washer blew the junk right off. As for the transmission shifts good. Really tight and notchy for the first few rows through the gears. After about 15 miles it smoothed right right out.

Surprise! I got the transmission lifted up and stabbed in just under 2 hours by myself. I got every installed once again. I just got to install the front drive shat and the interior. While doing the interior I'm going to dump a gallon of fluid right down the shift tower. Lot easier than pumping it in the side hole. More pictures to come on how I did all this.

More... His Youtube page of how it was made... https://www.youtube.com/user/wintergatan2000

Better look... According to Abe its been cracked for awhile and the stress of the last trailer run is what finished it off. Still think its rather funny I never had a 5th gear nut issue once but broke the main shaft. Not at the input like most do but at the other end.

Why? When I got a filter nut right here and he knows it better than I do.

Well find out right...

Today... Just got to stab the transmission in...

Generated torque of the Cummins. That is the only reason I can give....

Ultra Gray should cure up still in contact to gear lubes. I normal use it on diff covers. Never get the diff absolutely clean but the gray sticks very well. Black will tend to react to the lube and get gummy. Where the gray will semi-harden.

Use a little "Ultra Gray Silicone" on the leaking bolt it will seal right up.

I've been doing 100k miles on the Mopar Fluid for all this time I might back down to 50k miles myself. Change out when color starts to change. Being the fluid is cheaper and get more of it. At least you don't have to panic about if you can't do it at 50k miles knowing the fluid will hold up for very long time. I'm not sure.

According to the documentation from Mobil its rated for 500,000 mile change intervals. I asked Abe about that and even he think that would be stretching the limits a bit far.

Yes. I asked him what the required torque is. On the new updated shaft its 450 foot pounds. Something you can't do with a pipe wrench or hammer and chisel correctly. That's what I figured too. Going rate that I last remember is $108 a gallon for NV4500 from the dealer. Now I've got 5 gallons and Abe @ Weller Truck still said to stay to the 100k change intervals like I was doing and I'm good to go. Unlimited mileage one year coverage.

Weller Truck for $263 for a 5 gallon pail of Mobil Delvac 50 SAE transmission fluid. I figure since I was heading to the big city I could get it for a good price after finding out the local NAPA misquoted me a price. So getting down to Ontario I figure with the interstate close by and all the truck shops it should be easy to get. Wrong. Most part store counter workers are so ignorant of what I was talking about and attempting to sell me 50 weight engine oil or ATF fluid. Like I told them I'm looking for synthetic 50 weight transmission fluid with GL-4 rating. You get a glassy stare like... So I gave up wasting time driving all over Ontario, OR and went to the Weller truck pick up my transmission and they had it in stock. So add that to my bill. Lets say close to $1,800 when said and done. Broke the main shaft right at 3rd and 4th gear. Wore down most of the syncro's and nearly wore out 5th gear itself. Upgraded main shaft installed and torqued to 450 foot pounds which is the new specs on the nut. New bearings as well.

I've got my NV4500 transmission and 5 gallon pail of lube which Mobil Delvac 50 SAE synthetic. I'll post pictures later on. Very nicely done.

Not to steal AH64ID answer... I still want to hear his answer too. But in generally speaking as a filter gets tighter and tighter filtration the flow becomes restricted. Now I can't speak for the exact filter you asking about but again generally speaking like air filters, fuel filters and oil filters as they tighten down the flow is usually lower in volume. This why K&N makes claims of better performance, because it sacrifices filtration for flow volume so you might flow more volume of air but the filter is very low quality.