Mopar1973Man

1, 3, 4 should be fine... Optimally is 1, 2, 3 because its every other in firing order. 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4

First off let me say... I've followed some of the advise here and double checked a bunch of stuff. The transmission is over filled enough that the sensor is submerged in fluid constantly even in 5th gear and transfer case in neutral. As for the shift quality after nearly 1,000 miles already is still really tight feeling and not sloppy. As for transmission fluid temps empty running I see no more that 130*F tops at 68 MPH after 40 miles of driving even climbing grades. If the morning temperatures are down around 45*F it takes nearly a full 20 miles to rise off of the 100*F mark of the gauge. At midday with 75-80*F temps outside its barely reaching 130*F with flat travel might bump 140*F if climbing a 7% grade.Remember this is all empty truck and no towing... Now you might question the number of the fluid temps from the gauge I've used 2 different thermometers to verify the temperature reported by the gauge and alway darn close to the same value. No I did not install fast coolers nor did I change anything since installing the transmission on the temp gauge other than adding enough fluid to keep the sensor submerged. As you see the first few days after the transmission install MPG was bit low. After working hard and pulling thee RV down south and back which would say the break in period of the transmission occurred. Now with the job I had in New Meadows, ID and running back and forth to McCall climbing a 7% grade doesn't seem to bother the MPG's like in the past. Other that that I will say I'm pleased with Weller Trucks transmission rebuild it very tight and precise feel in the stick now compared to before. As for the transmission fluid I would have to say at this point of the game which is early yet but its a good solution for future fluid for NV4500.

Absolutely nothing wrong with that..

Nothing will keep it clean it just going to have to be a maintenance thing that when you change fluids you need to pull the sight glass and clean it. So I would say without the reflector...

??? I wonder if it is a compression / blowby issue? If there is enough pressure in the crankcase then it would force the oil out through weak gaskets and seals. Thinking out loud...

I've seen this happen when people do the hammer method they end up beating the trunnion into the opposite side and dent the downside bearing cup hole. Then you end up using files to straighten out the holes again then hone the holes smooth. Just make sure not to over do the holes with either a file or hones you still want to have good press fit for your bearings.

Another question? How much oil are you losing if any? Are you consuming oil and having to add? I tend to agree with Bill it could be valve guides or the piston oil rings which could be weeping oil past. Like my own truck I get a nice blue cloud on startup now from the oil leaking past the valve seals. Not in a panic mode at all just live with it. As for showing up at the manifold mine doesn't slobber like that though... Is it possible the valve guide are worn and with the extra drive pressure from Twin Turbos that it wore out the valve seals early from pressure stress?

I can see putting a sight glass plug in for the axles or transmission. As for the transfer case it might be hard to get extra fluid in to see it in the sight glass. Little knowledge on sight glasses. Like old Honda motorcycles had them back in the day instead of a dip stick. Now the Honda motorcycle where horrid because about every year or two you had to pull the clutch cover and using a q-tip clean the glass so you could see the oil level. Yamaha got smart and used a wiper that you spun using a screwdriver to clean the glass. So consider the fact that crud will cloud the sight lass over time. Just like pulling the differential cover and everything has coating of the black that just wipes off.

Transfer case plugs are steel now.

Too close to the VP44 is most likely what is wrong. Your at the strongest water hammer pulses from the VP44. So it would be best to move your tap point towards the stock filter or aftermarket pump.

Not good enough. A third could use another relay like the horn to still start it. This why you need to make it harder to figure out. Missing relay is easy like pulling a fuse. What happens when everything is in place? Now the thief will more likely move on after he cleans out the cab like you ScanGauge.

I use a Harbor Freight ball joint press for doing u-joints. Just use a impact gun to drive the press. More or less a big C-clamp. Works good and quick to change out u-joints. I would suggest to get a small hone stone/brush and run it through the holes to clean them up a little bit. Take all the rust out and it will make installing much easier. http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html

So you need to pull the ECM plug and the Cam Sensor plug and ohm from end to end to see if there is any connection problems. This test should show 0 ohms but 0-5 ohm is acceptable. Then while its disconnected ohm from pug to ground looking for shorts to ground. So on this test everything should be infinite ohms or OPEN.

I remember the days of CB's... Now where I live it nearly impossible to transmit out of the valley floor. North end of Riggins, ID looking north as US95 travels the river.

Fairly simple really. The fuel pump relay in the PDC is the power relay for the VP44. If you open the PDC up you can see the black ground lead for the relay. Just wire it into the cab on a SPST switch and mount the switch in a good hiding spot that isn't obvious. A single wire is really easy to tuck back in the main loom so there is no clue that that is the kill lead. The big trick is to mount the kill switch some where you can toggle without a passenger or other people looking can see you reach for. Like around your driver seat base maybe?

I'll verify temp measurements when I return home. Just using the hand method the case from top to bottom feels equally in temperature. So I'll verify oil temp with external means of measurement.

Second day of towing max temp I've seen so far is 170*F. Still averaging roughly 140 to 160*F. Still shifting very well. I've called Abe @ Weller TTruck asked him what max temp is for the 50 SAE trans fluid. He states that it failure point is 300*F.

Ok so I'm travelling with RV and will report after travelling for 1.5 hours at highway speeds I'm roughly holding 140-160*F running 4th or 5th gears. Now drop into town it will rise with 3rd fear but cools right back off once back at highway speeds. More to come...

I'm going to do the study work for the coolers now. As for my normal daily driving I'm hard pressed to get 140*F. That not even needing a cooler. Now I'll find out more during some RV and utility trailer towing. The only reason I don't way the fast coolers is because of the winter time temperatures. I don't what to have to keep swapping the coolers off and on just to get the fluid warmed up enough in the winter time. So consider you overall weather conditions and temperatures. Agreed. Now that I switch fluids and being what I'm using is cheaper that the original fluid I will be more prone to changing the fluid more often. Even with 261k miles on the truck I didn't have any debris even when the transmission did fail. So the idea of a filter isn't needed really. Now I'm experimenting with non-standard fluids I'm going to watch and see behavior of the transmission and temperatures. But so far it runs really really cool most times here in the mountain just empty driving. So far I've not seen a reason for the coolers as of yet.

First off don't bother pulling the IAT sensor. Just hook up a live data tool and watch the data. Nothing is ever gained from the old myth of cleaning the IAT sensor. I quit doing that years ago and just watch the sensor data. Colder the IAT the more advanced the timing will be come. Optimal IAT is when it lands in the green zone.

Just a plain ol' NAPA thermostat. I can reset the hi / lo markers on my OBDLink LX and see the limits of swing.

Had to make another trip into town today a bit warmer weather (~80*F). Still in all it take better than 10-12 miles to get the gauge to rise from the 100*F mark. By the time I get to town gear down for 25 MPH now the transmission is warming up to 130*F or so. Now leave town and head home it varies from 120-130*F most of the time.

Why not do the easy thing and leave the thermostat out till the block is completely filled right to the edge of the block. Now install the thermostat and finish filling. Never have an air issue then.

Now that looks correct... Weird how it was flipped.

But looking at the radiator its location and fan direction now dictates the rest. I've not figured out how to mirror an image that way. So he's standing on the driver side of the truck hood hinge is to his left, front of the truck is to the right. So how is the turbo on the driver side? Radiator cap on the wrong side too? Just flippin weird.