Mopar1973Man

Exactly... A second or two of idling isn't a huge issue. The stock gauge is nothing more than a dummy light so the needle pops up then the pressure is there...

$850... Completely rebuilt and put back to spec. You could pull the fuel pump relay (in the PDC) it will disable the VP44 and you could crank the starter to pump the oil up to pressure. Then reinstall the fuel pump relay and then fire up.

ABS ground is right at the driver side fender shield near the headlight.

Ship the module to them and they will test and repair as needed. If nothing is wrong they will ship it right back. But I'm going to bet that the module is bad being the pump motor is running non-stop and that's a sign of a failed MOSFET internally.

Call Module Masters in Moscow, ID they can rebuild the module for $130 and 5 year warranty. http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/ http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/ Yes the truck is drivable without the module.

Stock. Rebuilt by Industrial Injection also spun balanced. I do too but getting to a local Fleetguard dealer and keeping the price down is rather difficult. Why I've fell back to Napa Gold filters. I use to... I don't any more after a few reported cases of filter loading failures.

There was a few old articles I remember reading about filling the oil filters. A few strange warranty claims on Dodge was one that wipe out a piston because of a mouse turd. Yeap... A mouse turd. What had happened was oil companies mass produce containers and store them in a warehouse and back then bottles didn't get foil lids. So mice got into them and left presents for consumer. Needless to say the mouse turd was enough to plug a oil nozzle wiping out a piston. Another warranty claim on Dodge was owner was pre-filling the filter and the foil bits had fell back in the jug so when he filled the filter the bits of foil poured into the filter and found there way to connecting rod bearing and wiped it out. Kind of another debris / filter problem. I was changing oil on my truck and always remove the BHAF and put it on the bench. Inspecting the engine and found one intercooler clamp coming lose. Went to the bench to grab a tool bump the bench hear something fall and disregarded the noise of the object and went on to work on the intercooler. Finished up the oil change and the reinstalled the BHAF air filter. Made less than a mile and turbo was dropping boost and EGT rising like a rocket. Limped home to find the object that fell was a hose clamp in the BHAF. So now if there is a way to avoid getting debris in any filter or introduced to the engine I do it now. Like keep all filters sitting down on there base seal. This way never get a chance to get anything into the filter. The filter stays wrapped up till I'm ready to use it. If a port or hole is open I'll cover it with duct tape or rubber glove (great for intercooler lines!). So all it takes is once and things can get very expensive very quickly...

I'm going to go with the 50 WT transmission fluid which happens to be the same stuff they dyno the transmission with after rebuilding it. I want to see if I can break out of the Castrol Syntorq lock down and find everyone else a easy replacement that isn't a AMSOil or Redline.

http://www.quad4x4.com/syntorqlt.html So since I know I got to put some sort of lubricant back into the transmission and NV4500 fluid by Castrol is no longer produced. So I called the shop that is rebuilding my transmission. He suggested 50 weight synthetic transmission fluid in a GL-4 rating. So I started digging around. I can buy a 5 gallon bucket locally for 50WT Synthetic GL-4 Transmission Fluid. Then did some digging on the Internet because I want to find out if any others where using the 50 WT transmission fluid. Guess what... Another rebuilder suggesting the 50 WT transmission fluid. http://nv4500transmission.com/nv4500-transmission-fluid Now as for the 50 WT its used on most over the road truck transmissions as well. http://pds.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_Synthetic_Transmission_Fluid_50.aspx So I think I'm going to give this a go and when the transmission get here. Unless there is any other comments or suggestion of fluids.

First find a replacement collar if there is one to be had...

That all I would know there is just a matter of removing the bolt, lining up the flat on the shaft and tapping into place. No other damage on the steering box shaft?

If you got a quality filter it will never fill on the outside holes because of the anti-drain valve.

Not to hijack the thread but there is a wonder clip of a what looks like a 1971 Dodge Charger in the photos.

Is the bolt out of the hole? As long as the bolt is out of the hole you should be able to tap the collar over the splines and lightly tap it into place. At that point you can insert the bolt. The bolt acts like a lock to prevent it from sliding up and off the splines.

That what I do... Originally it was CI-4 was the API spec but oils have changed to the CJ-4 spec which supersedes the CI-4 spec. for our trucks. Most will say the CI-4 is a better oil because it had better content of additives. With the change CJ-4 they aimed at removing sulfur and reduced some of the additive package so some get scientific and nitpick the specs to death. 15w-40 oil is a good all around oil. Since I don't get super cold but maybe one month of winter then its over and done and the weather warm up above 0*F. I've seen several times where I left the house in minus weather and returned home to minus weather and never broke above 0*F all day. Just anytime the engine temp is low fire it up allow it to warm, drive easy till it does warm up to about 140-160*F and get on with it. Tend to fall back on what I see around me. With all the Dodge Trucks in the canyon here and none of them I know of are running synthetic oil. Most get there oil change done at the local Chevron so its going to be 15w-40 Chevron Delo. It not like I'm exception to the rule but taking into account of my knowledge of trucks, owners, and what is serviced where. Yes I've got connection with all the local shops too.

I've even got a Innova 31603 code reader that does both ABS/SRS codes but our generation of truck it misses. 1998 to 2002 it doesn't work. 1996 to 1997 it does and 2003 and up it works.

If it hit 25 PSI and clicked out its too low yet. Need to add a bit more shouldn't be cycling the compressor on hot day. I normal do my recharging in the heat of the day. That simple. Just shut down the truck and let it balance out. The hi side hose will have liquid freon in it. When it balances out the liquid will return to the system. The lo side hose typically just freon gas and very little will be lost. After I allowed it to balance and equalize I uncouple and vent the pressure off my hose at the manifold.

I'm not brand loyal. I'm specification loyal yes... But not brand loyal. Yeah I've seen it but typically I get good price from the dealers locally. I do a bit of phone calling to find the lowest price I can then call my local dealer tell them X dealer sell it for Y price. He'll typically match that price. Still going to call the local dealer and see if they still stock the fluid. (Googled...) Oh crap! I just found that NV4500 fluids are no longer made. Great this is going to add to my chasing stuff for my rebuilt NV4500 transmission I'll be picking up this week. http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=90020

With all the people I talked to I've only talk may be 2 people with over 500k miles with synthetic oils. The rest are all petroleum oil users. Most of them being hotshotters or people that travel long distances so doing towing work and some just travel for work. Look at Dripley again he pulls his 5th wheel to a job and then drive the truck back and forth to work. I wouldn't classify him as hotshotter but not a daily driver either being that its mixed long travel and short travel. I've have extensive chats with him on the phone at night. I know AH64ID is a big AMSOil fan but just recently rebuilt his engine from a failed cam gear that wiped out the oil pump. So he's starting all over again from zero on mileage counter.

Synthetics oil are better it just they don't have the paraffin waxes from natural crude oil stock and since it is synthetic the oil molecules are more uniformed. Synthetics have a better pour point temperature vs petroleum. So your right is does have those characteristics like you said. As for petroleum like I'm using I just start the truck and set 3 cylinder high idle and let it warm up before driving hard. So after 3 cylinder mode is started pyrometer temperature rises and heat is generated rather quickly. Typically I can go from ambient temperatures to 100*F coolant in under 5 minutes just on 3 cylinder high idle. Then drive off. Way different that starting up cold and leaving to idle in the freezing cold and not generating any heat. Way different story. As for the oils I tend to ask folks with over 500k miles or more on the odometer what they use. The common answer is petroleum based oils (Chevron Delo, Rotella, etc.) You just don't see synthetic oil users stepping forward with high mileage engines. just something to think about...

Yes. Block heater core failed about 4 years ago. Not to mention most places where it get parked in those conditions there is no power to be plugged in. Like a common example is like snowmobile parking lot or ski resort and going out snowmobiling or skiing for the day. I've asked lots of locals about this and what oils and filters they use. Most answer back 15w-40 oil and Wix or NAPA filters. I was just talking with one gent yesterday he's got a wonderful 1st gen with over 600k miles.

262k miles running solely 15w-40 oils even with temps as low as -25*F.

Something to consider. We are talking about the oil filters, oils, and bypass filters. Why is it that people put a washable air filter on the turbo and wash a few time and it breaks down filter media and start passing dust into the engine. All synthetic oil and high quality oil filters won't stop that damage. Food for thought...

Typically I run the low side upwards of 35 PSI. Next step I do is rev the engine up to 1,500 to 1,700 on the diesel and watch the pressures again. It should still stay locked on the clutch and the low side should hover near 30 PSI. Last time I checked I drive my truck with the A/C not sit around idling in parking lots. So I check the pressure like it would be if driven. The only problem is if it hot out the high side will climb quickly so your reading will vary some but if the pressure is falling out and cycling the compressor while driving then the performance is less than optimal. Pressure wise you want the low side above freezing. So look at the inner ring it will show the R134a discharge temperature in theory. So typically you want a system that sweats heavy but doesn't freeze. That what the low side switch does is shut down the compressor if the pressure fall too low on the lo side causing freeze ups of the evaporator. So to prevent freeze up the low side pressure has to be higher. As the lo side increases in pressure the discharge temperature get warmer. So that why the 30-35 PSI numbers I use because the Dodge lo side switch cuts out typically about 25 PSI. There is my little secret.

CajFlynn truck he changed oil every 20k miles used Chevron Delo 15w-40 and fleetguard filters. So I tend to not worry too much about types of oil and weight much. Being that most petroleum oil products can get you to the 1 million mark without an issue. LOL... I'm right behind you at 262k...