Mopar1973Man

Take a look at this picture and figure out how everything is backwards. Turbos on the wrong side, etc. Look at it closely...

Out the firewall and more or less straight line to the passenger side of the transmission.

The older 12V tend to play that game more so because of the location of the temp sensors. 98.5 to 02 the temp sesnr is right at the thermostat so your seeing the hottest coolant right there. Back in the 12V they had the coolant sensor at the rear of the engine so by the time the coolant cycled and the coolant dropped enough to close the thermostat the coolant at the rear of the engine was colder. Hence the wide change of temp on a 12V vs our where it might rise and fall 10 degree roughly. Depends on the thermostat. Like mine pop open initial close to 200*F and then falls to 188*F then becomes stable at 191-193*F never changes unless towing.

Hmmm 1" maybe... Go the hardware store and grab a few different sizes of brass fittings.

This is why I always leave the thermostat out till I get the block right to the edge of the thermostat. That way all air is forced out and you drop in the thermostat and bolt it down and hook up your hose and top of with the last half gallon or so of coolant and your done.

Ok. I know this isn't much for load. I hitched up the BigTex 70TV trailer loaded it up with household trash and old tires I kept for spares. Maybe at the most 1,000 pound of cargo in the trailer. The trailer dry weight is 1,800 pounds. So not very much. I can say that traveling from home to Riggins, ID which is 1,000 feet elevation drop in 15 miles the trans temp never broke off of 100*F the whole way till I hit the city limits and dropped to 25 MPH now it barely made 105*F. So now the trailer is empty for the trip home. So cruise set at speed limit it took 15 miles to even get 125*F. Now worming around to park the trailer back in the yard and left the truck idling now it crawled up to 135*F when I parked it. Temperature wise I say this transmission and trans fluid is doing good. Like I seen more reaction from the boost and pyrometer as I worked the truck back up hill.

Nothing... Clean mating surfaces. That's all that is required.

The only time my temperature will climb away from the normal 190-200*F zone is when the pyrometer is above 1,000*F. Then the pyrometer dictates how fast. So if I'm towing up a grade holding 1,200*F it doesn't take long to climb to 205-208*F to lock the fan. Everything below 1000*F EGT's won't make the coolant temperature change at all. EDIT: Digging through my logs I've been hard pressed to exceed 197*F on a empty truck.

On fuel fittings its a no no... If you get any tape down in the injection pump or injectors it will be game over. Everything else its OK.

Even on automatic that's just way too hot period. Synthetic fluids are more thermally stable and able to tolerate heat but your right 275*F is way too hot for all the bearings, gears and everything. I'm really curious to see towing temperatures and how mine does for most of the grades here in Idaho. Most all highways are the typical 6-7% some short as few miles and like Whitebird Grade is 6-7% at about 7 miles long.

Good questions... Bill???

Had mine rebuilt. New bearings, new syncros, new 5th gear (lower), updated main shaft (being I broke the old one).

One day in the future I know I'll be changing a pan gasket too. It's nice to know either way will work and get the pan out.

175*F is nothing to worry about. Now yes I do see some serious summer temperatures here ranging around 110-115*F in the summer but its short lived. Now my winter temps are minus as I head south to New Meadows, ID and even more south of that. Again the extreme cold is short lived too. So the coolers I would consider if I was in the desert and seeing much more hot periods. Being I'm running that 50 SAE synthetic transmission fluid and most likely going to shorten my change interval to 50k miles. Just doing quick look for max running temperatures for the fluid I'm using there is nothing per say set in stone. Looking around most average answer says max operational temperature is 240-260*F roughly. I've still got the warning light in the ISSPro set for 220*F. Might bump down to 200*F but first I got to see some heavy towing to get a feel for what I'll see then readjust accordingly. As for the wire the full length of the sensor lead was used and still got a bit of slack under the dash. So the supplied wire that ISSPro provides is plenty.

Yes from 15 MPH and down is blocked. Here is the sensor stuff in the case. I'm going to say that I'm going to be studying really hard the changes of what the gear lubricant is going to do which its a lighter viscosity than the original NV4500 fluid. I'm also going to watch for MPG changes if any can be found.

Well so far I got the bushing installed. Just driving back from New Meadows, ID to home I was hard pressed to even reach 120*F. So on the way home I ran up Elk Lake Rd which is another steep canyon road in 2 miles I was really hard pressed to barely touch 140*F. Back on the pavement and rolling 65 MPH temperature dropped to 115-120*F roughly. This transmission isn't making much heat. Now to say I do realize the gears are flinging the oil every where inside the gear case. So over filling isn't exactly a requirement. So this is with the Mobil Delvac 50 SAE Synthetic Transmission Fluid being measured by a ISSPro EV2 gauge. My Edge Comp also took a relocation under the column since I rarely change the setting. More to come...

Yea... Just hardware store stuff. Matter of fact I'm heading to the hardware store to finish up the trans temp gauge install. I need a 3/4" to 1/2" like seen in my picture.

Your right Cowboy it is a 3/4" NPT. Darn it I need to go to town to finish the gauge install.

Now that's funny...

Because the plug in the head is already 3/4" I know this is a poor picture but you can see my two bushings 3/4" to 1/2" and the 1/2" to 1/8" then boost gauge. At least the line isn't in the way and won't get broke doing basic work like valve adjustments or injector work. Also the boost bolt is easy to break off being its a hollow bolt.

You might want to relocate the boost down on the side of the head rear of the fuel filter. There is a 3/4" pipe plug. I can see that tube being broke every time you do a valve adjustment or busting the line when loosening that injector line. As for injector lines like Dripley said as long as the lines are not leaking out on the head there isn't anything to worry about. You might check the return tee at the back of the head and the banjo at the rear of the head to common leak spots.

I'm pretty sure a 1/2" to 1/8" bushing will fit just fine. I laid on the floor quick and checked and it look like it will fly/ As for being submerged that why I'll add about 1/2 quart through the top of the transmission being slightly over filled.

Not going to work. I was wondering about thread and pitch because I would pull the plug out possibly replace it with a 1/2" to 1/8" bushing and stick a trans temp sensor in the hole. Then toss another 1/2 quart of fluid in so it submerged. Thanks to @Killer223 for sending me a trans temp gauge and pod.

Anyone happen to know what size plug and thread the fill plug on the NV4500 is?

I thought my truck was dirty...Randy you need to take some purple power ot that beast and garden hose at least...