Mopar1973Man

That's the problem right there. 6 month old Moog...

Ummm... There is only the front seal... Which would be dumping fuel in the gear case... The working outward on the pressure side is the cross over tubes. Now did you install or change injectors at all? Really common for people to install injectors the wrong way and cause a leak inside the head where you can't see and just return fuel to the tank. Suction line leaks never actually leak and the toughest to find because while the engine is running the suction line just draws air in and mixes with the fuel. If your running an AirDog or similar then the air is just returned to the tank. Now when the truck is shut off then suction line will still draw air in allowing the supply line to drain back. Personally I've never heard of VP44 being the cause of a loss of prime.

Gotta check the site store once in awhile you never know what we might be selling these days...

Ekkk... Maybe @Dynamic would be willing to go through it for you. Make it right for you...

The one truck I worked on last I assume had Moog joint but it was strange to see both upper and lower joints grease-able. I'm not a huge fan of Moog looking are some of the weird things they have done track bar wise and ball joint design wise. More on Moog after digging a bit deeper... http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/blog/where-are-moog-parts-made/

I've heard the same thing but you'll have to arrange the Smarty and flash with Bob Wagner AFAIK... http://smartypower.com/new/contact.html

Kind of like now the 2 places I would trust for transmission work. Dynamic Transmissions and Weller Truck now that I've personal met both people and seen the work I'm very happy.

This is one reason why I don't deal with business with Facebook pages, EBay pages etc. Real business will have a actual web page that's even hard to make go away.

But it will validate what you gauge is showing. Without a gauge yeah not very scientific.

Just blocked you that's all.

Might get some more towing data very soon. But what kind of distance did you travel?

Losing prime on the lift pump. It's back draining most likely at the quick connect of the suction line. AirDog is going to purge the air back to the tank so thats why it doesn't die out on you. Do you still have the factory filter can yet?

You be surprised how many time I've put together u-joint and in inadvertently kick a roller bearing to the bottom and then end up crushing the bearing in the cap. Makes for a tight u-joint. At least a rear shaft is easy to do. The front shaft with the cardigan joint is a big PITA to deal with. Even on the 96 I managed to bend one of the yoke ears and screw up the centering of the joint. Don't feel bad...

Most likely the throw out bearing getting old. (Educated guess)

Nothing wrong with having a professional drive-line shop look over the drive-line and verify its straight and balanced.

I think it will change characteristics when the oil is hot say 170-190*F the viscosity of the oil is much thinner so it might flow through a filter pretty good. I'd still aim slightly bigger in micron rating say 30-35 maybe... Being there is so little pressure going into that filter your going to have to have a media that is not very restrictive flow wise. I see what AH64ID is after but I also see your idea too.

No. There is about 55 different version of software out for each year. So you can't just grab any old ECM you'll need to reflash it no matter what. So if you did buy a used ECM from someone you would have to set an appointment with a Dodge Dealer so you can have it reflashed. To reflash an ECM you'll need to install it once you get to the dealer.

I'd be interested in seeing if the of the gear spinning is enough to make oil flow through the filter. I'd love to see a filter after say 50k or 100k miles. Being that there is not much pressure I would have to say go with a generic filter of some sort being that if its too fine of a micron rating it might just plug up and stop filter early. Since there is no pressure to force it into bypass mode or to push oil through the filter.

Today was a different run of a day. I had to book to McCall to pick up a lift pump for a local gent to get his truck running again. So I left fairly early this morning the outside temperature was 40*F going out across New Meadows flats. The transmission only barely rose to 120*F on Goose Creek grade then once I was on open road again I kicked up my speed and watch the temperature fade back to below 100*F. Then once I got into town again it rose up to barely 120*F again. Hovered like that for all my travel through town at 25 MPH. Now got what I needed and head back to home for a quick stop to drop off some stuff. The whole way back the temperature would fall back below 100*F again still cold out barely 45*F heading home. Stopped at home drop off the stuff and got moving on to the job in Riggins. Now heading down canyon the temperature started to rise outside to 60*F. Now the transmission temperature inch up off the 100*F to 105*F that's it. I've still been running cruise control at posted speed limits. So the only time I seen it rise again was hitting the city limits of Riggins at 25 MPH it climbed to 120*F. So I worked on my job about 45 minutes or so. Then packed up and got fuel in town and headed home. By this time the wind was picking up and temperature was maxed out at 65*F out side. So the climb back home the transmission temperature barely made 110*F. I traveled a total of 100 miles and never seen much for transmission temperature just a max of 120*F. I will say that so far I'm not even thinking of fast coolers because of how low the temperature are staying for just the truck. Also I took note of my average loads at 65 MPH... Flat ground running at 65 MPH I'm only producing 40-50 HP and 110-150 Ft/Lbs of torque at the flywheel to keep me going at 65 MPH on flat ground very low drag I would say. Yes the MPG fooler was on this morning.

Now there is a option I might jump on... Still like the 4th gear double storage idea too. Hmmm... http://www.genosgarage.com/product/cup-holder-9802/cup-holder

All I can say about rebuilders is find a company that will give a good warranty and good turn around time for both servicing and warranty calls.

Nicely done. From what I can see you reconstructed the entire roof. Basically just only had the interior panel right? Fresh aluminum skin too. I see the OE was a 2 piece roof and your now is a one piece roof.

Where I had my rear drive-shaft taken out for the carrier bearing the shop only replaced one u-joint. Wasn't that the needles bearings was bad just had some end to end movement which would impact balancing the shaft. Like we both agreed twist checking it felt fine. The only way you could detect the end play was remove the shaft and pull in line to the trunnion arm then you felt the slight movement.

Sad to say I lost all my stock u-joints way back at about 60-80k miles. Mine were all dried out and ground up. Been running grease-able u-joints and just grease them up every oil change. I contribute my early failure to the fact of all the offroad driving, dirt and dust, then flip side in the winter time all the water and mud. The little rubber seals are pretty weak for keeping debris and water out. So every 7-8k miles pushing fresh grease in forces out debris and water. Where most of you are on the pavement and easy to get those kind of miles out of the u-joints.

Lost prime... For sure your hearing the high rev of the rotor and then the bouncing is the fuel coming and it loads the pump back up. Eric at Vulcan Performance sells all the Parker Push Lock Fittings and JIC fittings. So if it was me I would grease the suction line fitting and reassemble and see if the problem goes away if so like I said its time to ditch the Quick Connect fittings and move back to push lock fittings.