Mopar1973Man

Won't make a bit of difference. I've seen guys now spend huge money of dealer alternators and new alternators but this does NOT promise a high quality alternator. I've seen in both cases of dealer and new alternators of guys get up to 5 alternators in a row that were all bad in the box. You could spend big money on the oversized alternator. Like National Alternators I don't have enough information of life span on these yet.

Actually, All vehicles are having problems with the AC noise it just manifests in different ways. Like our truck in torque converter lockup. Other vehicles might have cluster issues, cruise control issues, the list goes on. The problem is most people don't consider the alternator as a source of problems. All of today's vehicles have computers, all of them have alternators, so any of them can have AC noise issues... Again they manifests in different ways or failures.

Sorry, I don't see a water pump worth $195 and only gives 1 year warranty. I'm not a huge fan of Cummins parts being most of the time Cummins parts are way over priced and fail just the same as part store part.

Some one was being really smart and went up to the gun range and was target practicing with tracer rounds in his magazine. Needless to say there is now a new forest fire for the area. It will be named the Gun Range Fire.

not too bad 5gen for all that...

Holy cow... I can buy a new water pump for 47 bucks right now at NAPA. If your near me I'd gladly install it for nothing.

Napa heater core and evaporator. No issues.

I'll take a picture of the rod and valve.

Typically it is the alternator. Both of my trucks are completely unmolested for ground wiring. Always the alternator that is bad.

There is tons of Hillary videos out there. Like the ones of her seizures. There is a video of Clinton Cash which explains the Clinton foundation and how they got rich.

No.. The entire rod came out of the knife valve completely. Just a little hole where the rod came out of.

I normally leave all valves open so the rubber seal can relax for the entire winter time. This also allows the tanks to dry out and so the scum to possibly fall from the wall next time used.

Ugh... The valve is all the way on the passenger side of the RV and the handle is on the driver side. Then all the screws were rusted in the bottom. So about 3 or 4 screws I had to grind the heads off to get the belly pan down. Then I was barely able to reach the 4 bolts and nuts. Then the two pipe flanges barely had enough room pulling on it to get the valve out. Then putting in back in place I had to reach in and single handed and stretch the rubber seals on the flanges. Then once the seal in place try and pull the pipe careful back and stick the between without knocking the seals off. What a pain in the rear. It back in place for now I'm going to dump 5-10 gallons of water in the tank and check for leaks. The valve was fairly cheap at 19 dollars and not really a tough job normally but when you force to work it single handed makes it tough.

Just I've hear different people say different things about warranty issue. The only reason I won't buy a "Blue Chip" pump is because of the price and the fact they re-use the PSG instead of replacing it. If you buy a "Blue Chip" pump that is with a new PSG then you pay dearly for that pump. To compete price wise? Here... DAP is way cheap with the same warranty and even a NEW PSG installed... http://dieselautopower.com/bosch-027-vp44-fuel-injection-pump-standard-output-235hp-wire-tap-voids-2-year-warranty-vp44027/ Again Vulcan Performance... New PSG and cheaper price than BC. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm

This morning I'm bring the RV over to the guest house to dump the waste tanks. Everyone knows you start with your black tank then switch to the grey tank(s) after the black is emptied. Right off the bat I pull the rod completely out of the black tank knife valve. (Oh Flippin' Great!) I'm off to New Meadows, ID to pick up a new valve and install it. At least I had the luck of the draw and the valve opened and dumped. Instead of yanking the rod out without dumping. (Ewwww! that would be nasty!). Just another adventure of turning wrenches I guess.... Also got to check the wheel bearing I've got one creating a squeak now... Not a good sign...

I would say so at $41k for asking price. I would be looking up all the damaged parts and labor rates for the repair of said problems then create a counter bill against the dealers asking price. Then get him to come down.

That is correct but showing a marginal alternator. Should be reading more so below 0.03 AC volts. Normal - 0.01 to 0.03 Marginal 0.05 - Some report random and strange issues at this point. Fail 0.1 and above.

The whole valve thing was only for a few years then I know like 2002 does not have it at all. So it was a idea that was short lived and soon forgotten.

The only way to verify if it fixed electronically is to have it bench tested on Bosch 815 test stand which is at least 3 hours from start to end. Last that I know that Blue Chip does not have Bosch 815 test stand.

This is not a good sign to see black silicone. Most likely a used PSG unit and might be damaged or bad flash on it. Truely unmolested PSG unit should be like your old unit where its all clear.

Possible a bad pump?

Remember that auto part store testers test at full load of the alternator. We'll test at resting state idling. So the numbers will be very different.

I'm lucky one then... Rarely ever barrowed. I managed to sell my service of splitting firewood.

Like i had a conversation with @JAG1 about the ground. I typically do not suggest adding extra anything for wiring. Like him I told him to double check again on the ground. I bet the case of the alternator has a thin lacquer coating and make for poor contact. So I suggested to lightly sand the contact points of the case and the test patch. Now I bet the ground plane is improved. You can add the extra grounds but you must remove the wiring mods and filters BEFORE doing AC noise test. These mods will cover over the problem giving false good results on the test. Its so common to find over on CF of all the TQ conv problems and there is one guy fight a random issue and the alternator is passing the AC noise test. Now remove his noise filter, extra ground, etc. Now it fails absolutely. So extra grounds will not solve the problem with bad alternators but it will mask the issues long enough which in turn gives better chances of ECM, PCM or VP44 failure from excessive AC noise in the power. So this why I don't suggest it because I want to see the noise sooner than later and deal with the alternator issue quickly than having it masked and slowly killing the computers.

Basically the higher the pressures go the warmer the discharging temperature. Example: Normal house refrigerator would have a low side of about 2-5 PSI. Our A/C typically is about 35-40 PSI max typically. Again look at the lo side temperature ring and you'll see lower the pressure the colder it gets. Again there is variance in pressure because of outside temperatures and vent temperatures in the cab. So initial startup of the system with high cab temperature might cause a spike in the hi side pressures as well driving up the lo side some. As the cab cools then the pressures will fall. There is fine line of balance between undercharge with compressor cycling and overcharge with the low side flooding out. It's also possible to see the compressor spit. Typically this occurs on a hot day and initial start up the lo side might have liquid or oil and compressor will near hydro-lock and spit out the pop off vent in the rear of the compressor. Sign you gone way too far.