Mopar1973Man
Owner
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
-
Out here since good fuel is long way in between so I typically go for quality name brand fuels and skip the Mom & pop places just too risky. So at times I do run below 1/4 down to Empty if I know I can make it to a large city or quality place. -
If it was standard petroleum it wouldn't matter just do an oil change...
-
I did tank drop removal and then installed a old school draw straw and still retain the full use of my tank right down to Empty and no real 1/4 issues everyone cries about. As you'll see my tip looks like its touching the bottom but its really not. It the thickness of a quarter between the tip and the tank bottom at empty. Now as a I fuel the bottom deflects downward and away from the tip. Diesel fuel is roughly 6.5 pounds per gallon so 10 gallons will be 60 pounds of weight so the bottom deflect a good 1/8". Also notice there is no wild angle cuts or anything weird with the tip other that 4 small notches added.
-
I've seen a TSB about using a bead of silicone sealant for the rear part of the pan. Did you use a sealant on the oil pan gasket? A light color block paint would of help seeing the path of othe oil leak. I think I've mention this before...
-
Even with my AirDog I kept my old Big Line Kit from Vulcan so I've got the fittings and wiring extension so I can hook a stock pump in with little effort. Unscrew the AirDog lines and hook up the stock pump and electrical. Done. Still operating on the 1/2 line and still removed all the junk banjos. But still have an option for stock or aftermarket. With any upgrade pump you will have to change the pickup assembly in the tank you have no choice. Even the stock non-pump sender is not big enough for any lift pumps.
-
Then you should see the 2001 in my shop right now with ZERO PSI of fuel pressure. Still starts and runs like no issues and even got a Edge Juice wire tapped. No fuel pressure sender install. Really lame.
-
Valve Lash Adjustment For Cummins Valve lash adjustment is suggested to be done at 150K miles which I think is too far down the road. My valve lash were out of adjustment a bit at 92K miles. So this is how I did my valve lash adjustment on my truck. Valve lash adjustment is fairly simple to do and doesn't require much for tools. Tools Needed: 1. Feeler gauge set (0.010 and 0.020) 2. 9/16" box wrench 3. 10mm short socket 4. 15/16" socket 5. both 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets 6. Allen wrench 7. mirror. Valve lash adjustment should be done on a cold engine with a coolant temp below 140*F. The first thing you need to do is pull the valve cover off the engine. You'll need a 10mm short socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolt till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve cover will come off on the passenger side. You got to slide it towards the turbo and work it over the top of the heater hose. Take your time is will go... Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) like in the picture above. Now you'll start adjusting valve lash. Intake valves 1, 2, 4 and Exhaust valves 1, 3, 5 which I've circled for you. Just remember the long rockers are exhaust valves and the short rockers are intake valves. Using a feeler gauge you want to adjust all intake valve lash to 0.010" gap and all exhaust valve lash to 0.020" gap. You'll be inserting the feeler gauge like shown. This is the part you got to take your time on. As you'll notice as you tighten up your adjustment screw the feeler gauges seem to be pinched in-between but try to hold the feeler gauge flat you'll notice it get loose again. So take your time... Now when you get ready to tighten the lock nut or finger spin it tight. Then as you tighten the nut you go to hold the adjustment screw still. But if you notice your gap is loose twist both nut and screw tighten a little bit. Or twist the adjustment screw loosen as you tighten the nut. This will increase or decrease the gap a little but not much. Now that you done this set now you go to do the other half of the valves. So now twist the alternator some more till you see (BDC -Bottom Dead Center) for the Bosch VP44 injection pump gear. Now adjust the rest of the valve lash. Intakes 3, 5, 6 and Exhaust 2, 4, 6. They are marked in the picture below. Again remember the long rocker are exhaust valves and short rockers are intake valves. Double check all the jam nuts that they are TIGHT! Mopar's Notes: Also wouldn't hurt to throw in the torque specs for the lock nuts on the adjusters. 18ft-lbs for the adjuster nuts and 18 ft-lbs for the valve cover bolts starting in the center out. inlinecumminspower http://idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7665 You now have completed a valve adjustment on you engine. Now you got to reassemble the valve cover. Replace the gasket if it damaged typically the gasket is serviceable for many years. Then remount the breather cover on the gear case and hook up the vent tube. You'll hear a slight difference when you start the truck up. It going to be a bit quieter. Let it idle a bit and double check your valve cover for leaks.
-
Yes Sir...
-
Now if I had the extra cash to buy a HE351 and HY35 and Frankenstein them together.
-
Will give out the other secret there is no way to access the sensor from inside the differential unless you remove the carrier with the ring gear. So if you careful you can still do all this without opening the differential.
-
Nice truck. I would put some priority on the steering and brakes with those 35" tires. If the 3rd gen calipers haven't been done I highly suggest you do it. You'll need the extra braking power to stop those 35" from turning. Then steering wise the steering and suspension doesn't hold 35" very well so I would consider all the little upgrades like the 3rd Gen track bar and the steering box brace if its not done already. Then I would dive on fuel and power. Because I would rather be able to control a tame truck that lose control of a wild truck.
-
Even better yet the entire box load of the switch are sitting right here at my feet ready for sale. Just need the cables.
-
So wouldn't just upgrading be the better idea? Kind of like the parts you put on the truck. So how about the camper eh?
-
It will do that for internal lighting and radio.
-
Yeah but the voltage will be too low for the battery. 13.2 to 14.5 is what you want not 12.0 out of ATX power supply.
-
Also while the sensor is out to check the tone wheel for placement. One of members had a similar problem had a bearing fail in the differential and the tone ring shifted out of view of the sensor. Be aware the sensor most likely will not come out without breaking. Make sure to spray plenty of PB blaster or WD-40 to help it but if the crude and mud is pack down there the o-ring will hang up. So carefully pry little pieces and break the off till you get the sensor body out. Been there, done that...
-
Exactly. My converter is in the background of the picture. The pendant on the mini panel on the left is the controller for storage, normal or boost mode. The cutoff switch allows me to cut all power to the 12V circuit without going to the fuse panel or the batteries. Converter is wired to the batteries keeping the charged all during storage. I just select storage mode on the pendant. http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9100.html
-
Seems weird. It should be charging the battery when you are plugged in.
-
Ummm... I leave my RV plugged in all winter and let the converter keep the battery charged all winter no issues. Like I said you might want to look at a quality converter. It nice to keep the battery charged while it stored. Also if you happen to use a RV park it nice to have power for the 12V system and not cook the battery doing it. Yeah I know you plan on camping or boondocking more so. Still you got to consider the storage angle and possible RV park usage.
-
Seriously need to find a good 3 stage converter. Those old 15V charger will cook a good battery in no time flat. My old 1976 Dodge Jamboree was known to cooking the house battery in a short time if you left it plugged into city power.
-
Just don't let the puller crush against the gear case cover.
-
Modify it by using a shorter bolt and nut in the center as a fixed pin to push against the shaft. Then just tighten the 2 bolts into the gear to press the shaft out. Here is what I got. Just the bolts go the other way around...
-
Secret is to only remove the 1,2,4 injection line pack. Leave 3,5,6 attached to the head. There is enough room to slip the pump past the 3,5,6 injector lines. 2 bolt puller is what you want but a steering wheel puller will work too. Just need a TQ wrench to tighten the gear nut back on to 125 ft/lbs.
-
Stock SO pump is fine. The only special tool you need to do the job is the puller for the gear. The rest of it is straight forward hand tools and removal. I've had guys limp from Boise, ID or Portland, OR for VP44 swap outs. I'm right around that range now with my own setup. (+50HP injectors and Edge Comp). Do the same thing hauling trailers most of the summer time either heavy loads of firewood or my RV through the mountains of Idaho.
-
What? Most VP44 are fairly good price. $1,100 or so. I know there is a few good vendors in Canada. Labor should only be only tops of 4 hours by the book I normally charge for 2 hours @ $60 USD. My fastest change out is 1.5 hours in a ranchers field in a rain storm.
