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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Might be worth doing a fluid change if there is metal stuck o the end of the sensor magnet. I'm going to assume the magnet in the pan must be full.
  2. Might try another scan tool. As for the fuel pressure that is actually getting too low for the most part. 14-20 PSI is the unofficial normal span. 10-13 is marginal being the overflow valve isn't opening and cooling the VP44 electronics very well. Below 10 PSI is a fail by even Dodge or Cummins standards. The only other thought is to test for excessive AC noise out of the alternator. Typically normal alternator produces only 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts. When didoes get tired or brushes get crappy then it will rises above 0.05 by the time you reach 0.1 AV volts other issues start to fail like ECM's and VP44. So measure the AC voltage at the BATT terminal of the alternator with a DVM that has a low AC volt scale like 2V AC or 200mV AC.
  3. I'd say scan for codes and check fuel pressure.
  4. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Engine
    Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is. Supplies you'll need... 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long) 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female) 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female) 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose 2 hose clamps 1 Small can of PVC glue Hacksaw Sharpie black marker Tape measure Can of spray paint 1 Zip tie 6" long Cut measurements 3" Heater hose 4 1/2" front down pipe 2 1/4" front cross pipe 24" long pipe 5" rear cross pipe 20 1/2" rear down pipe NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck. So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end. Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose. On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings. At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping. Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. Opps. the Paint was completely cured.
  5. Lengths of 1/2" PVC pipe 20 1/2" 5" 24" 2 1/4" Length of 3/4" heater hose 3" More on the article I'll be creating...
  6. Sensor might be failing. Would be a good idea to test that against a mechanical gauge to verify. It could be a difference in fuel too how it was winterized. Still I would verify against a mechanical gauge to verify accuracy.
  7. Even on the manual side of life with a NV4500 I've never had a 5th gear nut issue and the transmission still shifts great. I have replaced one clutch since OEM. 258,000 miles and still rollin'...
  8. Might check the bottom of the manifold for oil. Open the throttle butterfly and look straight down at the bottom of the manifold. If there is any oil in the bottom then you have a blown plenum gasket.
  9. As for pump labels most them are reported back east yet. Low Sulfur Diesel should not be even produced at this point for highway use. As for the ATF usage... Yes that is ash build up... Yes.. ATF is high in ash content.
  10. The best guy to talk to in Dynamic here on the site he's one of our Tranny Gurus. https://mopar1973man.com/profile/2504-dynamic/
  11. Where I live with the mountain roads and offroad use. I've manage to spill over 1 full gallon engine oil right into the fan. I've managed to spill about 1/2 gallon panic stopping on the highway for deer. So the whole easy hang in the front will no solve the actual issue. The best solution is to pull the 24V tappet cover and put a 12V cover on. Never worry again about it.
  12. Skip the miller tool part. But the wiring diagnostics are what you got to watch. Do you have any other codes? Spitting and sputtering is not a transmission or speed sensor issue sound like a engine issue. What is your fuel pressure at idle and WOT on the highway? Any other error codes?
  13. I'm still running a stock OE style trackbar with no issues. The catch here is I'm not running oversized tires. So... You are stuck having to modify and take on either a Luke's links or a 3rd Gen track bar conversion. I would suggest the 3rd Gen track bar myself. Those 35" tire will not allow you to keep a stock track bar. You'll have to consider a steering box brace. Those 35's put a lot of force on the steering box and frame. All I can say is expect to spend quite a bit of time fixing the front end on these trucks as long as you keep over sized tires.
  14. Ask JAG1 about his box he had to modify his for this reason. I know the clips he bents to clamp tighter and something on the box to aid in clamping.
  15. Optilube is a good product. For most people its a mail only product. It does increase HFRR quite well. The only reason I still use 2 cycle oil is I got so much 2 cycle equipment. (Chainsaws, weed eaters, etc.)
  16. I've swapped units with another known good truck and still got the same issues. So it's going to be one of thee unit bearing hubs.
  17. Be aware that method will not stop oil spilling. A sudden panic stop will still run oil out the tube. 4WD on steep slope will still spill oil.
  18. Won't happen ATF is too high in ash content not to mention the other compound like anti-scorching and friction modifiers. At least 2 cycle oil is just oil without all the add junk you engine can't burn.
  19. Depends on your fuel source. Some folks like using dirty ol' farm fuel (red dye) and wonder why filters don't last long. Maybe they are really cheap and buy the cheap corner store fuel and wonder why the filter is black in 15k miles. The reason I can get away with it is because of knowing my fuel source and what the fuel station has for filters. So I can extend my filter change out quite a long time. I still watch the fuel pressure and see if there is a serious drop in pressure. So far it not tripped my low pressure light even once yet. ISSPro EV2 is programmed for 13 PSI so when it drops to below 13 PSI it will trip.
  20. Still in all for a pump to be still labeled LSD is not valid either.
  21. Just pointing out it's not a perfect idea...
  22. You might want to test with a analog volt meter to be sure it's not just a busy CCD data bus making things jumpy. If you do decide to change it go for a Timbo's APPS much better APPS.
  23. Just like the Dakota I just do the manifold gasket the amount of debris in the manifold was unreal. Previous owner had a K&N.

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