
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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2nd Gen parts lookup tools
Things will improve quickly. Right now there is only one way to find it being through the site. When the search engine start to pick up and change over it will improve more giving more options of access. Strange though just in the last 2 days the site traffic is up 500 people more. Hanging out at 1,500 or so a day come to the site. It was floating at about 900 to 1000 or so in the old lay out.
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Lift Pump/ Fuel Supply Question
Wait to start light coming on instantly with the key? If its delayed at all the engine will not start or do much of anything till the WTS light comes on.
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Auto to Manual Trans Swap
This is about on the mark. Like myself I've escaped this for the most part by using smaller tires. Oversized tires will impact this more so and require more beefing up of the transmission to hold up. As for the 5th gear nut I'm still going strong no issues.
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2nd Gen parts lookup tools
Don't feel bad guys neither my PC's or my tablet worked with the look up. Linux by default will not work with online PDF files. I did manage to add a plugin to work with PC's. Now my Android tablet its still not working either. Thing is the information is here you might have to use a PC to use it for the time being but at least its here, We'll continue to improve the site and the code as time goes on!
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Lift Pump/ Fuel Supply Question
This is why the ECM controls the lift pump so when tach signal drops to zero the lift pump is shut down. This will prevent a lift pump feeding a fire that might of occurred from a vehicle accident.
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Instrument Cluster Testing
The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the instrument cluster can perform a self diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges, and the CCD data bus message-controlled indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster circuitry position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD), and turn all of the CCD data bus message controlled indicators on and off. Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the CCD data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Engine Control Module (ECM), the Airbag Control Module (ACM), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules.Use a DRBIII scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. 1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position. 2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button. 3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine. 4. Keep the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer/trip odometer switch button. 5. A series of three-digit numeric failure messages may appear in the odometer display, depending upon the failure mode. If a failure message appears, refer to the Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction. If no failure message appears, the actuator test will proceed as described in Step 6. 6. The instrument cluster will begin the Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each VFD segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the VFD will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster. Following completion of the VFD walking segment test, the actuator test will proceed as described in Step 7. 7. The instrument cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator that the instrument cluster circuitry controls. If the wait-to-start indicator does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the bulb and bulb holder check OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster. Each of the remaining instrument cluster circuitry controlled indicators except the cruise indicator are illuminated by a Light Emitting Diode (LED). If an LED or the cruise indicator in the VFD, fails to illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced. Following the bulb check test, the actuator test will proceed as described in Step 8. 8. The instrument cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the instrument cluster circuitry positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly, or does not respond at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster. 9. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test. 10. Go back to Step 1 to repeat the test, if required.
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Seat Belt Timer Diagnostic under the center seat
SEATBELT CONTROL TIMER MODULE DESCRIPTION The Seatbelt Control Timer Module (SCTM) is secured to a bracket underneath the front edge of the front seat center cushion. The SCTM mounting bracket also serves as the support for the slide-out rear seat cup holder unit. The SCTM contains an electromechanical Gravity (G)-sensor and an electronic timer circuit. The SCTM receives hard wired external inputs from the ignition switch and both door jamb switches. The SCTM monitors the external inputs, as well as the inputs from its internal timer and G-sensor. In response to those inputs, the SCTM controls hard wired battery voltage outputs to both electric front seat belt retractor latch solenoids. The SCTM also sends diagnostic outputs to the Airbag Control Module (ACM) over a hard wired fault circuit. For diagnosis of the CCD data bus, the ACM or the fault circuit input to the ACM from the SCTM, the use of a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual are recommended. The SCTM cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if faulty or damaged, must be replaced. OPERATION The SCTM provides battery current to energize the electric seat belt retractor latch solenoids whenever the ignition switch is in the On or Accessory positions, unless the G-sensor input indicates a vehicle condition that requires the seat belt retractor to be latched. When the seat belt retractor latch solenoids are energized the retractor spools are unlatched, and the seat belt webbing can be extracted from the retractor. When the solenoids are de-energized the retractor spools latch, preventing the seat belt webbing from being extracted further from the retractor. This logic ensures that the seat belts will be latched and remain latched if battery power is lost during a vehicle collision. The electromechanical G-sensor within the SCTM monitors the rate of vehicle acceleration and deceleration in any horizontal direction. The G-sensor also responds to the horizontal attitude of the vehicle. If the G-sensor monitors a gravity force of greater than about 0.7G in any horizontal direction, or that the vehicle is tilted in any direction at an angle of greater than about 45 degrees, the SCTM will sense the input from the G-sensor and de-energize the seat belt retractor latch solenoids. The SCTM electronic timer circuit provides the vehicle occupants with the ability to extract the seat belt webbing from the retractor spool for a time period of about 30 minutes after the ignition switch is turned to the Off position, unless the G-sensor input indicates a vehicle condition that requires the seat belt retractor to be latched. The electronic timer circuit also monitors the state of the door jamb switches, and unlatches the seat belt retractors after either door jamb switch cycles from open to closed or from closed to open. Each time the SCTM receives an input indicating a change in the state of a monitored switch has occurred, the 30 minute timer starts again. The timer de-energizes the retractor latch solenoids after about 30 minutes to prevent the battery from being drained while the vehicle is not being driven. The hard wired SCTM fault circuit output to the ACM is used to indicate whether a fault condition is present in the electronic seat belt control system. The ACM continuously monitors the SCTM fault circuit and sends the proper messages to the instrument cluster over the Chrysler Collision Detection (CCD) data bus to turn the seat belt reminder lamp on or off. When no faults are present or monitored by the SCTM, the normal voltage range on the SCTM fault circuit is between one and three volts. If the ACM detects voltages outside the normal range on this circuit, or does not detect any input from the SCTM, it sets a fault code and sends messages to the instrument cluster to turn the seat belt reminder lamp on. SEATBELT CONTROL TIMER MODULE For complete circuit diagrams, refer to Restraint System in the Contents of Wiring Diagrams. Check the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the battery as required Check the fused ignition switch output (run-acc) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run-acc) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the open fused ignition switch output (run-acc) circuit to the ignition switch as required. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the connector receptacle of the Seatbelt Control Timer Module (SCTM) Reconnect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the wire harness connector for the SCTM. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the junction block fuse as required. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run-acc) circuit cavity of the wire harness connector for the SCTM. If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open fused ignition switch output (run-acc) circuit to the junction block fuse as required. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Check for continuity between the ground circuit cavity of the wire harness connector for the SCTM and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground as required. Check for continuity between the right door ajar switch sense circuit cavity of the wire harness connector for the SCTM and a good ground. There should be no continuity with the right front door closed, and continuity with the right front door open. Repeat this test for the left door ajar switch sense circuit. If both circuits check OK, and the problem is with only one inoperative electric seat belt retractor latch solenoid, refer to Electric Seat Belt Retractor Latch Solenoid in the Diagnosis and Testing section of this group. If both circuits check OK, and the problem is with both electric seat belt retractor latch solenoids being inoperative, replace the faulty SCTM. If either or both door ajar switch sense circuits is not OK, refer to Door Jamb Switch in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Vehicle Theft/Security Systems. ELECTRIC SEAT BELT RETRACTOR LATCH SOLENOID For complete circuit diagrams, refer to Restraint System in the Contents of Wiring Diagrams. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the seat wire harness connector from the connector receptacle of the Seatbelt Control Timer Module (SCTM) Check the resistance between the inoperative (driver side or passenger side) seat belt solenoid control circuit cavity of the seat wire harness connector for the SCTM and a good ground. The correct resistance should be from 50 to 60 ohms. If OK, refer to Seatbelt Control Timer Module in the Diagnosis and Testing section of this group. If not OK, go to Step 3. Disconnect the seat wire harness connector from the connector receptacle of the inoperative (driver or passenger) electric seat belt retractor latch solenoid. Check the resistance between the two terminals in the connector receptacle of the electric seat belt retractor latch solenoid. The correct resistance should be from 50 to 60 ohms. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, replace the faulty seat belt retractor unit. Check the resistance between the ground circuit cavity of the seat wire harness connector for the electric seat belt retractor latch solenoid and a good ground. There should be no measurable resistance. If OK, repair the open (driver side or passenger side) seat belt solenoid control circuit between the seat wire harness connectors for the electric seat belt retractor latch solenoid and the SCTM as required. If not OK, repair the ground circuit to ground as required.
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Coolant Temperature Gauge - What the normal operating span?
The coolant temperature gauge for normal span is roughly 165*F to 225*F from left tick mark to right tick mark. Here the coolant sensor is operating and at 164*F the needle is barely off the mark on the cold side. Here the temperature is fooled to 216*F but not quite there to the tick mark figuring its going to be about 225*F at the mark.
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AirDog Filter Numbers
AirDog 100/150 Filters NumbersAirDog 100 & AirDog 150 Part Number FF100-10 (10 Micron) Fleetguard FF5617 FF100-5 (5 Micron) Fleetguard FF5587 FF100-3 (3 Micron) Fleetguard FF5613 2 micron fuel filter NAPA 3626 WS80 (Water Separator) Fleetguard FS19768 WS100 (Water Separator) Luber-Finer LFF9594 SuperDog Filter NumbersSuperDog 200 Part Number FF200-10 (10 Micron) Fleetguard FS1054 WS200 (Water Separator) Fleetguard FS1023 PureFlow P/N Cross Reference P/N Manufacturer AirDog FF100-10 FF5617 - Fleetguard 10um absolute, 60GPH AirDog FF100-5 FF5587 - Fleetguard discontinued AirDog FF100-3 FF5613 - Fleetguard 5um absolute 60GPH AirDog WS80 FS19768 - Fleetguard 0% emulsified water/50% free water sep 20 GPH AirDog WS100 LFF9594 - Luber-Finer 95% free water/75% emulsified water sep 90 GPH NAPA Part # 3626 2 micron fuel filter works on the airdog!!! 6um nominal! More numbers supplied by 1lowdiesel @ CumminsForum (AirDog Tech) Napa / Wix 3527 & 33527 Napa / Wix 3697 & 33697 Napa / Wix 3420 & 33420 Napa / Wix 3616 & 33616 CAT 1R-0751 CAT 1R-0750 Donaldson P551315 Baldwin BF1275 Fleetguard FS19768 Baldwin BF7634 FleetGuard FF5324
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AirDog Filter Numbers
AirDog 100/150 Filters NumbersAirDog 100 & AirDog 150 Part Number FF100-10 (10 Micron) Fleetguard FF5617 FF100-5 (5 Micron) Fleetguard FF5587 FF100-3 (3 Micron) Fleetguard FF5613 2 micron fuel filter NAPA 3626 WS80 (Water Separator) Fleetguard FS19768 WS100 (Water Separator) Luber-Finer LFF9594 SuperDog Filter NumbersSuperDog 200 Part Number FF200-10 (10 Micron) Fleetguard FS1054 WS200 (Water Separator) Fleetguard FS1023 PureFlow P/N Cross Reference P/N Manufacturer AirDog FF100-10 FF5617 - Fleetguard 10um absolute, 60GPH AirDog FF100-5 FF5587 - Fleetguard discontinued AirDog FF100-3 FF5613 - Fleetguard 5um absolute 60GPH AirDog WS80 FS19768 - Fleetguard 0% emulsified water/50% free water sep 20 GPH AirDog WS100 LFF9594 - Luber-Finer 95% free water/75% emulsified water sep 90 GPH NAPA Part # 3626 2 micron fuel filter works on the airdog!!! 6um nominal! More numbers supplied by 1lowdiesel @ CumminsForum (AirDog Tech) Napa / Wix 3527 & 33527 Napa / Wix 3697 & 33697 Napa / Wix 3420 & 33420 Napa / Wix 3616 & 33616 CAT 1R-0751 CAT 1R-0750 Donaldson P551315 Baldwin BF1275 Fleetguard FS19768 Baldwin BF7634 FleetGuard FF5324 View full Cummins article
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What Happens If You Keep The Stock Crankcase Vent on a 2nd Gen Cummins
Mopar's Notes: Here is the result of leaving the stock crankcase vent in place and the problems it causes like overheating... Here is the story from Edcasey from Cummins forum at Should of lost my puke bottle a long ago I finally got around to doing Mopar1973Man's mod for the puke bottle. I knew I needed to clean my radiator even before this happened. My truck ran hot (215 - 220 degrees) in stop and go traffic or when towing my 3000 pound trailer. Also, at idle, my air conditioner barely worked. It all pointed to an air flow problem. So I pulled the radiator and I would say this is an air flow problem: So I used some degreaser and my power washer to clean everything. So once that was done I went to work on the new vent setup. It's Mike's design just plumbed slightly different (probably still a patent infringement). While I had it all apart, I flushed the cooling system and changed the thermostat. When it was back together I took it for a test drive. It heated up to 190 degrees much faster than before thanks to the new thermostat. When the thermostat opened it actually dropped down to about 185 degrees. I've driven this truck daily for about 4 years and it has never done that. I decided to take it for a ride through the city. I spent 45 minutes in stop and go traffic with the air conditioner on and it never went above 190 degrees. Before it would have gone to about 215. It was definitely worth the time it took and I should have done it a long time ago. The down pipe I kept short enough that road debris will not strike the downpipe as well as keeping up near the engine heat in hopes to keep it from freezing shut. Take notice the steep angle cut on the end of the pipe added to keep the tip from possibly freezing shut as well.
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Starter Operation and Specs
Starter Description The starter motors used for the 5.9L diesel engine and the 8.0L gasoline engine available in this model are not interchangeable with each other, or with the starter motors used for the other available engines. The starter motor for the 5.9L diesel engine is mounted with three screws to the flywheel housing on the left side of the engine. Each of these starter motors incorporates several of the same features to create a reliable, efficient, compact, lightweight and powerful unit. The electric motors of all of these starters have four brushes contacting the motor commutator, and feature four electromagnetic field coils wound around four pole shoes. The 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L and 8.0L gasoline engine starter motors are rated at 1.4 kilowatts (about 1.9 horsepower) output at 12 volts, while the 5.9L diesel engine starter motor is rated at 2.7 kilowatts (about 3.6 horsepower) output at 12 volts. All of these starter motors are serviced only as a unit with their starter solenoids, and cannot be repaired. If either component is faulty or damaged, the entire starter motor and starter solenoid unit must be replaced. Operation These starter motors are equipped with a gear reduction (intermediate transmission) system. The gear reduction system consists of a gear that is integral to the output end of the electric motor armature shaft that is in continual engagement with a larger gear that is splined to the input end of the starter pinion gear shaft. This feature makes it possible to reduce the dimensions of the starter. At the same time, it allows higher armature rotational speed and delivers increased torque through the starter pinion gear to the starter ring gear. The starter motors for all engines are activated by an integral heavy duty starter solenoid switch mounted to the overrunning clutch housing. This electromechanical switch connects and disconnects the feed of battery voltage to the starter motor, also engaging and disengaging the starter pinion gear with the starter ring gear. All starter motors use an overrunning clutch and starter pinion gear unit to engage and drive a starter ring gear that is integral to the flywheel (manual transmission), torque converter or torque converter drive plate (automatic transmission) mounted on the rear crankshaft flange. Diagnosis & Testing - Starter Motor Correct starter motor operation can be confirmed by performing the following free running bench test. This test can only be performed with starter motor removed from vehicle. Refer to Starter Specifications for starter motor specifications. (1) Remove starter motor from vehicle. Refer to Starter Motor Removal and Installation. (2) Mount starter motor securely in a soft-jawed bench vise. The vise jaws should be clamped on mounting flange of starter motor. Never clamp on starter motor by field frame. (3) Connect suitable volt-ampere tester and 12-volt battery to starter motor in series, and set ammeter to 100 ampere scale (250 ampere scale for diesel engine starters). See instructions provided by manufacturer of volt-ampere tester being used. (4) Install jumper wire from solenoid terminal to solenoid battery terminal. The starter motor should operate. If starter motor fails to operate, replace faulty starter motor assembly. (5) Adjust carbon pile load of tester to obtain free running test voltage. Refer to Specifications for the starter motor free running test voltage specifications. (6) Note reading on ammeter and compare this reading to free running test maximum amperage draw. Refer to Specifications for starter motor free running test maximum amperage draw specifications. (7) If ammeter reading exceeds maximum amperage draw specification, replace faulty starter motor assembly. Diagnosis & Testing - Starter Motor Solenoid This test can only be performed with starter motor removed from vehicle. (1) Remove starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Removal and Installation. (2) Disconnect wire from solenoid field coil terminal. (3) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal and solenoid field coil terminal with continuity tester (Fig. 7). There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly. (4) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal and solenoid case (Fig. 8). There should be continuity. If not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly.
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Electrical Article - Starter Operation and Specs
Starter Description The starter motors used for the 5.9L diesel engine and the 8.0L gasoline engine available in this model are not interchangeable with each other, or with the starter motors used for the other available engines. The starter motor for the 5.9L diesel engine is mounted with three screws to the flywheel housing on the left side of the engine. Each of these starter motors incorporates several of the same features to create a reliable, efficient, compact, lightweight and powerful unit. The electric motors of all of these starters have four brushes contacting the motor commutator, and feature four electromagnetic field coils wound around four pole shoes. The 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L and 8.0L gasoline engine starter motors are rated at 1.4 kilowatts (about 1.9 horsepower) output at 12 volts, while the 5.9L diesel engine starter motor is rated at 2.7 kilowatts (about 3.6 horsepower) output at 12 volts. All of these starter motors are serviced only as a unit with their starter solenoids, and cannot be repaired. If either component is faulty or damaged, the entire starter motor and starter solenoid unit must be replaced. Operation These starter motors are equipped with a gear reduction (intermediate transmission) system. The gear reduction system consists of a gear that is integral to the output end of the electric motor armature shaft that is in continual engagement with a larger gear that is splined to the input end of the starter pinion gear shaft. This feature makes it possible to reduce the dimensions of the starter. At the same time, it allows higher armature rotational speed and delivers increased torque through the starter pinion gear to the starter ring gear. The starter motors for all engines are activated by an integral heavy duty starter solenoid switch mounted to the overrunning clutch housing. This electromechanical switch connects and disconnects the feed of battery voltage to the starter motor, also engaging and disengaging the starter pinion gear with the starter ring gear. All starter motors use an overrunning clutch and starter pinion gear unit to engage and drive a starter ring gear that is integral to the flywheel (manual transmission), torque converter or torque converter drive plate (automatic transmission) mounted on the rear crankshaft flange. Diagnosis & Testing - Starter Motor Correct starter motor operation can be confirmed by performing the following free running bench test. This test can only be performed with starter motor removed from vehicle. Refer to Starter Specifications for starter motor specifications. (1) Remove starter motor from vehicle. Refer to Starter Motor Removal and Installation. (2) Mount starter motor securely in a soft-jawed bench vise. The vise jaws should be clamped on mounting flange of starter motor. Never clamp on starter motor by field frame. (3) Connect suitable volt-ampere tester and 12-volt battery to starter motor in series, and set ammeter to 100 ampere scale (250 ampere scale for diesel engine starters). See instructions provided by manufacturer of volt-ampere tester being used. (4) Install jumper wire from solenoid terminal to solenoid battery terminal. The starter motor should operate. If starter motor fails to operate, replace faulty starter motor assembly. (5) Adjust carbon pile load of tester to obtain free running test voltage. Refer to Specifications for the starter motor free running test voltage specifications. (6) Note reading on ammeter and compare this reading to free running test maximum amperage draw. Refer to Specifications for starter motor free running test maximum amperage draw specifications. (7) If ammeter reading exceeds maximum amperage draw specification, replace faulty starter motor assembly. Diagnosis & Testing - Starter Motor Solenoid This test can only be performed with starter motor removed from vehicle. (1) Remove starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Removal and Installation. (2) Disconnect wire from solenoid field coil terminal. (3) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal and solenoid field coil terminal with continuity tester (Fig. 7). There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly. (4) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal and solenoid case (Fig. 8). There should be continuity. If not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly. View full Cummins article
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MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) Sensor
MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) Sensor The MAP sensor is installed into the rear of the intake manifold. The MAP sensor reacts to air pressure changes in the intake manifold. It provides an input voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM). As pressure changes, MAP sensor voltage will change. The change in MAP sensor voltage results in a different input voltage to the ECM. The ECM uses this input, along with inputs from other sensors to provide fuel timing, fuel control and engine protection. Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high. Mopar's Notes: This cleaning procedure will not correct any error codes that are being produced by the MAP sensor (P0237 or P0238). If you got a fueling enhancement box of any type hooked to the MAP sensor lines it could be a internal fault of the boost fooler circuit causing the MAP sensor error code. If the truck is stock then the MAP sensor requires replacement. This cleaning process is normally for Dodge Cummins that have exhaust brakes installed. But there has be a few reports of MAP sensors being dirty without a exhaust brake install. There is no maintenance schedule for cleaning the MAP sensor. If you do have a exhaust brake I suggest every oil change you clean the sensor. I clean mine every 6,000 miles and do a oil change at the same time. Ok. first thing when need to know is where is the MAP sensor located at. It's on the driver side of the engine just passed the fuel filter. Now you need the proper tool to remove it. You need a 1-1/16" deep well socket to remove the MAP sensor. Also your going to need a 3" extension. Preferably 1/2" drive. Mopar's Notes: It could also be a 1 1/4" socket too. Here is what the sensor looks like when its dirty. Now all you got to do is give it a few sprays of carburetor cleaner to remove the oily coating. Now that they are cleaned. Just reverse the process to install them back in the manifold.
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Electrical Article - MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) Sensor
MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) Sensor The MAP sensor is installed into the rear of the intake manifold. The MAP sensor reacts to air pressure changes in the intake manifold. It provides an input voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM). As pressure changes, MAP sensor voltage will change. The change in MAP sensor voltage results in a different input voltage to the ECM. The ECM uses this input, along with inputs from other sensors to provide fuel timing, fuel control and engine protection. Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high. Mopar's Notes: This cleaning procedure will not correct any error codes that are being produced by the MAP sensor (P0237 or P0238). If you got a fueling enhancement box of any type hooked to the MAP sensor lines it could be a internal fault of the boost fooler circuit causing the MAP sensor error code. If the truck is stock then the MAP sensor requires replacement. This cleaning process is normally for Dodge Cummins that have exhaust brakes installed. But there has be a few reports of MAP sensors being dirty without a exhaust brake install. There is no maintenance schedule for cleaning the MAP sensor. If you do have a exhaust brake I suggest every oil change you clean the sensor. I clean mine every 6,000 miles and do a oil change at the same time. Ok. first thing when need to know is where is the MAP sensor located at. It's on the driver side of the engine just passed the fuel filter. Now you need the proper tool to remove it. You need a 1-1/16" deep well socket to remove the MAP sensor. Also your going to need a 3" extension. Preferably 1/2" drive. Mopar's Notes: It could also be a 1 1/4" socket too. Here is what the sensor looks like when its dirty. Now all you got to do is give it a few sprays of carburetor cleaner to remove the oily coating. Now that they are cleaned. Just reverse the process to install them back in the manifold. View full Cummins article
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Installing A Timbo's APPS Sensor
Installing A Timbo's APPS Sensor What's needed? -Timbo Apps - 10MM socket and wrench - T20 torx - Paperclip - Mutlimeter Timbo gave me a Timbo APPS sensor to install on my truck and try out. So I'll tell this much its built much better than the factory ~$450 dollar Dodge stock APPS sensor! I will say it works with the exhaust brake and is high idle ready with no compatibility issues. Timbo APPS sensor has no effect on these options and will continue to work as usual. What I love about the Timbo APPS is the fact there is no longer a need to for adjusting voltage for the APPS to function correctly or probing the PCM or ECM sockets.. And for you Timbo you need some serious Props for coming up with a simple fix for our tucks! My hats off to you sir! But Here is my quick version write up of how to install a Timbo APPS sensor. 1. First you must remove the plastic cover over the bellcrank assembly. There is 2 plastic screws inside a expanding plug. You must remove the plastic screw without pushing against them. Kind of tricky but it can be done. 2. Then grab a 10mm socket and remove all 6 bolts holding the black plate to the mounting on the block... 3. Unplug the old APPS sensor. 4. Remove the 2 Torx screws holding the stock APPS sensor. This part I kind fudge over Timbo idea and made it simple. I grab a pair of pliers grab the head of the screw and broke them loose then used a T20 bit to finish removing. This way there is no worry about stripping the heads out. 5. Replace the APPS sensor with Timbo APPS sensor in the same position and line up the slot with the bellcrank tab. Use the supplied screw. Just before you finish tighten the screw turn the sensor fully clockwise to remove extra twisting slack. (As seen in this picture) 6.Plug in the wiring and re-assemble the APPS sensor plate again with the 6 bolts. 7. Now adjust for slack. Use the supplied paper clip and insert it in the green port on the plug. Turn your key ON and look at the voltage. Now using the screw on the bellcrank stop (one towards the front) adjust till the voltage rises the back off till you hit your original mark plus 1/2 turn. Since mine was .633 I turn till it rose and the backed off to .633 and then another 1/2 turn. Your all set! WARNING! Don't try to adjust the voltage to the voltage on the tag of the old sensor. This is not required nor should be done. Timbo's APPS has no voltage to set to. Also don't bother to try and probe at the PCM this is not required ether! Take notice the final voltage on the DMV (Digital Volt Meter) is no where near the voltage listed on the old stock APPS. 8. Disconnect your batteries and do a APPS Reset. Mopar's Notes: Anyway's, just thought you could put a comment at the bottom of your Timbo APPS write up to tell people that the voltage/set screw adjustment isn't REQUIRED but certainly nice to do to avoid a dead spot at the top of the pedal movement. - Derrick Lucas
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How To Reset / Calibrate Your APPS Sensor
How To Reset / Calibrate Your APPS Sensor WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) replaced the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. 1. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. 2. Turn key to ON position. (Do not Start) 3. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time)>to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set. 4. Turn the key OFF. NOTE: Disconnecting the batteries will not erase or reset error codes. All it does is erase the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration in the ECM. As the video below will demostrate.
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Who is Mopar1973Man?
Who is Mopar1973Man? My actual name is Michael S. Nelson. Where did this nickname come from? The nickname actually should have been MoparMan but most sites and email account had that taken so I needed a way to get around this problem. So I added the year of my first car to the middle which fixed this problem. My first car was a 1973 Dodge Charger SE. Mopar1973Man, Why did you start a website? Well, that is a strange story. I'm like most of you just a Common Joe needing to buy a new truck so I bought a 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel. The first 50k miles went good and then the dreaded P0216 code popped up. The first thing I did was run to the internet and start reading. Matter of fact my first forum I joined was "Diesel Truck Resource" back on April 01, 2004. I got the needed help to make some good judgment calls and repair my problem. I feel in love with the idea of helping others as well. So shortly thereafter sometime in 2005, I created my first website host from my DSL provider which contained basic repair information. This allowed me to just drop a link to an article instead of typing the article each and every time. Mopar1973Man, When was www.mopar1973man.com born? It was born October 4, 2007, is when I bought the domain name. Mopar1973Man, Why did you start a web forum? This continues the above story. As the articles got more and more popular I seem to get a slap on the hand from Larry Ellis of Diesel Truck Resource in 2006 for using my article links. So I moved over to Cummins Forum on February 11, 2006, and started helping other members with my articles still getting more and more feedback on how to improve articles and write-up my email account was getting hammered and I was editing HTML code pages by hand to keep articles up to date. So the forum gave people of like minds to get together and share information and better the article database. Mopar1973Man, Are you ASE certified? Absolutely not. I'm not ASE certified. I'm actually a certified computer technician. Graduated from ITT Tech College in Van Nuys, California 1989. Bit More History Of Mopar1973Man.Com As for Mopar1973Man.Com is was designed to be my web notebook of answers to common issues and problems with Dodge Ram trucks with Cummins Turbo Diesel engine. It started out as a simple HTML website and my notes published in HTML pages. This worked for quite a while but as time went on and the site got more and more popular adding, editing, and keeping up was getting harder. The biggest problem I ran into is the mass inbound emails of fixes, edits, new articles, etc. So vBulletin 3.8x forum was purchased and installed. This allowed all members to discuss ideas and create articles for common problems. I was still doing HTML pages so the HTML article database was converted to Joomla CMS 2.5.x. This now allows me to just create access for the family member and he/she can maintain their own article page(s) and update it when required. I kept going on the vBulletin line till version 4.20 is when I purchased Invision Power Board 3.4.6 to keep the site modern and up to standards of the smartphones and mobile world. So to this day, the site is powered by the knowledge of the "Family Members" and sharing this knowledge with others. Mopar1973Man.Com to this day pays its bills and debts with donations and advertising dollars. Mopar1973Man, What do you mean "Family Members" ??? This phrase came forward one day because we all act like one huge family. Just like any family, we don't all get along just perfect but still work though differences with each other. We respect each other like fellow family members. Most of us will give our shirts off our backs to help others at times of need. Mopar1973Man, What are your personal goals? My personal goals are to have an efficient diesel truck that will last at least 500k miles. I've been studying 24 valve Cummins diesel engine efficiency for many years and at the current time, my high mark is 27.2 MPG on the ScanGauge II and the uncorrected math with 0.5 MPH speedometer error is 26.12 MPG. So in a nutshell, I'm looking for longevity, reliability, and efficiency. Mopar1973Man, What else do you do? I joined Salmon River Rural Fire Department back in 2004 and served as Station Captain currently. Then, later on, I joined Idaho County Search and Rescue and serve on their ATV search team. As for hobbies, I guess I continue to play with websites, servers, computer hardware, and software for a winter hobby as for summer I tend to enjoy firewood hauling, hiking, biking, ATV riding, etc. As for local jobs, I work on vehicles doing basic repairs. During the summer, I do air conditioning recharging. I manage several different websites at the server level for the site owners. I still do computer repairs as well but tend to lean on the Linux side more so now. As of July 2014, I wad hired by Lindy Wheeler as a second mechanic in his shop in Riggins, Idaho. Lindy Wheeler pasted away from Cancer. (Rest in Peace, my friend) As of 2019, I started my own shop doing Dodge Cummins diesel work. As of 2020 I open a second shop with a 2 post lift and been service all name brands of vehicles.
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Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Disassembled
Here it is gang the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump fully disassembled. Here is the rotor and injection pump assembly. I stood the rotor assembly up and pull the pistons out of the rotor. Yes, these pins are the 3 pistons pumping together to create the high pressure. This of course, is the main shaft, vane pump and cam ring. Take notice to the 3 rollers and shoes below the main shaft. These 3 roller shoes ride in the slots of the main shaft and roll around inside the cam ring. Here is the timing piston. This is the piston that causes the infamous P0216 code. You can see the piston is galled up and this pump failed with the P0216 code. Now you can see the relationship of the timing piston and cam ring. As the piston moves back and forth it advances or retards timing as commanded by the ECM. Here is the PSG unit on top of the Bosch VP44 Injection pump. The lead on top is the valve for controlling the timing piston by flowing fuel pressure to the piston. The lead on the bottom you notice has been tapped and this lead is the fuel pin solenoid. Also take notice the electronics are heatsinked to the fuel side not the cover side. This just kills off all the people thinking heatsinks or blowers on the cover are do any good... Sorry it don't. Close up of the guts of the PSG. That clear gel is not solid as you see I was attempting to get some plastic debris out of the gel and disturbed it. This gell helps the heat of the electronics to dump the heat into the fuel below the plate. This is the PSG flipped over showing the sensor for the tone wheel and fuel temp. As you can see the electronics sit over the ribbed section. Again this is to promote heat exchange to the fuel for the electronics. This is another good reason why the 14-20 PSI unofficial fuel pressure are suggested. Then the empty VP44 injection pump body. Yes, this VP44 body was damaged beyond what can be used for core. The owner pried the pump out of the gear instead of using a gear puller. That's why the damage to the nose of the VP44 pump body. Looking inside the Bosch VP44 injection Pump body where the guts go. Then the nose of the Bosch VP44 injection Pump where the shaft comes through.
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Fuel Article - Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Disassembled
Here it is gang the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump fully disassembled. Here is the rotor and injection pump assembly. I stood the rotor assembly up and pull the pistons out of the rotor. Yes, these pins are the 3 pistons pumping together to create the high pressure. This of course, is the main shaft, vane pump and cam ring. Take notice to the 3 rollers and shoes below the main shaft. These 3 roller shoes ride in the slots of the main shaft and roll around inside the cam ring. Here is the timing piston. This is the piston that causes the infamous P0216 code. You can see the piston is galled up and this pump failed with the P0216 code. Now you can see the relationship of the timing piston and cam ring. As the piston moves back and forth it advances or retards timing as commanded by the ECM. Here is the PSG unit on top of the Bosch VP44 Injection pump. The lead on top is the valve for controlling the timing piston by flowing fuel pressure to the piston. The lead on the bottom you notice has been tapped and this lead is the fuel pin solenoid. Also take notice the electronics are heatsinked to the fuel side not the cover side. This just kills off all the people thinking heatsinks or blowers on the cover are do any good... Sorry it don't. Close up of the guts of the PSG. That clear gel is not solid as you see I was attempting to get some plastic debris out of the gel and disturbed it. This gell helps the heat of the electronics to dump the heat into the fuel below the plate. This is the PSG flipped over showing the sensor for the tone wheel and fuel temp. As you can see the electronics sit over the ribbed section. Again this is to promote heat exchange to the fuel for the electronics. This is another good reason why the 14-20 PSI unofficial fuel pressure are suggested. Then the empty VP44 injection pump body. Yes, this VP44 body was damaged beyond what can be used for core. The owner pried the pump out of the gear instead of using a gear puller. That's why the damage to the nose of the VP44 pump body. Looking inside the Bosch VP44 injection Pump body where the guts go. Then the nose of the Bosch VP44 injection Pump where the shaft comes through. View full Cummins article
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TSB 09-002-02 Oil Overflow From The Front Crankcase Breather
Date: March 11, 2002 Models: 1998-2002 (BR) Ram Truck NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 1998 - 2002 (BR) RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE BUILT AFTER MARCH 27, 1998 (ESN 56443872). Symptom/Condition: Owners of 1998 - 2002 (BR) Ram Trucks equipped with the 24-valve Cummins diesel engine may experience engine oil overflow from the front crankcase breather when the vehicle is operated off-road on an extreme downhill grade (37.5% or 22° slope/grade). Operation of this type for extended periods of time can cause enough engine oil depletion to damage the engine. A kit containing all components necessary to eliminate the oil overflow has been made available. If the condition exists, perform the repair. Parts Required: Qty. Part No. Description 1 05093017AA Kit, breather Repair Procedure: NOTE: REFER TO THE SERVICE MANUAL THAT 1S SPECIFIC TO THE VEHICLE ON WHICH YOU ARE WORKING. (REFERENCES IN THE PROCEDURE BELOW ARE TO SECTIONS WITHIN THE 2000 (BR) RAM TRUCK SERVICE MANUAL (PUBLICATION # 81-370-0008). 1. Open the hood. NOTE: IN THE INTEREST OF CUSTOMER SATISFACTION, RECORD SET RADIO STATIONS AND REPROGRAM WHEN PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED. 2. Disconnect both negative battery cables. 3. Remove the air intake connector. 4. Remove the charge air cooler duct. 5. Remove the washer bottle. 6. Remove the fan shroud and viscous fan. (Section 7). 7. Remove the crankcase breather assembly and discard. 8. Remove the fuel filter/water separator assembly. (Section 14). 9. Remove the Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump, (Section 14). 10. Remove the CM551 engine control module. 11. Remove the mounting bolt that secures the fuel line to the tappet cover. 12. Disconnect and remove the fuel line "T" fitting and mounting bracket. 13. Remove the tappet cover mounting bolts and side cover. 14. Install new tappet cover with breather tube. Torque bolts to 24 N-m (17 ft. lbs.). NOTE: BREATHER TUBE SHOULD BE ROUTED DOWN, BEHIND THE STARTER AND AWAY FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL. 15. Reconnect and install fuel line "T" fitting and mounting bracket. 16. Install the mounting bell that secures the fuel line to the tappet cover. 17. Install the engine controller. 18. Install the fuel pump. (Section 14). 19. Install the fuel filter/water separator assembly. (Section 14). 20. Install the replacement access plug on the front of the gear cover. 21. Install the fan shroud and viscous fan. (Section 7). 22. Install the washer bottle. 23. Install the charge air cooler duct. 24. Install the air intake connector. 25. Reconnect both negative battery cables. 26. Start the engine and check for leaks. 27. Close the hood and reprogram the radio (if necessary). Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. Time Allowance: Labor Operation No: 09-85-05-91. Install New Breather Kit ....................3.2 Hrs. Failure Code: P8 - New Part
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TSB 09-02-00 - Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor
Date: Feb. 18, 2000 models: 1999 - 2000 (BR/BE) Ram Truck NOTE. THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE. Discussion: A customer may complain of a heavy oil or fuel-like odor coming from the engine compartment. This condition may occur after the engine oil has been changed. The odor appears to reduce in intensity as the engine oil ages. This aging usually occurs between the first 300 to 500 miles following the oil change. NOTE: DO NOT CONFUSE THE HEAVY OIL OR FUEL-LIKE ODOR WITH A DIESEL ENGINE EXHAUST ODOR. The odor condition is the result of certain diesel engine oil additives. These oil additives are blended with the base oil during the manufacture of the engine oil. Some diesel engine oils with the American Petroleum Institute quality rating of CH-4 or CH-4+ may be more prone to exhibiting the odor condition. NOTE: THE DAIMLERCHRYSLER RECOMMENDED DIESEL ENGINE OIL, P/N 04798231 (QT.) OR P/N 0479832 (GAL.), IS FORMULATED TO MINIMIZE THE HEAVY OIL ODOR CONDITION. To possibly reduce the further incidence'of the odor condition, the integrity of the cowl seal should be verified. The cowl seal is located between the rear edge of the hood and the cowl panel. Diesel engine oil vapors, which develop during normal engine operation, exit the engine through the engine road draft tube. The heavy oil or fuel-like odor may leak past an opening in the cowl seal and enter the passenger compartment through the HVAC system. This may occur more frequently if the vehicle is at a stop, with the engine running, and the HVAC system is being operated in any mode other than "Re-circulate". NOTE: ANY OPENING OR VOIDS IN THE COWL SEAL SHOULD BE CORRECTED. VERIFY THAT FULL CONTACT BETWEEN THE HOOD AND COWL SEAL IS PRESENT ALONG THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE SEALING SURFACES. PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE SEALING INTEGRITY AT BOTH ENDS OF THE COWL SEAL. Notes: POLICY. Information Only
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TSB 18-019-01 - Cold Idle Engine Warming for 2nd Gen VP44 Cummins
Date: September 3, 2001 Models: 1998 1/2-2002 BR/BE Ram Trucks NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL RAM TRUCKS BUILT AFTER DECEMBER 17,1997 AND EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE. Discussion: This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software (Cal 55Tl8, 57Tl1, 56Tl3, 59T7b, and 59T8b.) Symptom/Condition: Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time. Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met: 1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and, 2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and, 3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and, 4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and, 5. Throttle = 0% and, 6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating. Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs: 1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or, 2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or, 3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or, 4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or, 5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F). Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will re enable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle. NOTE: ANY TYPE OF AFTERMARKET IDLE SPEED KICKER THAT ACTIVATES THE APPS WILL DISABLE THIS FEATURE. Use of the 110V block heater will not allow the feature to function after an overnight soak. If the vehicle is left idling, without use of the block heater, 1200 rpm operation will begin when the intake temperature drops below O°C (32°F) and coolant is less than 60°C (140°F). Diagnosis: 1. Using the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRBIII) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. Parts Required: Qty. Part No. Description 1 04669020 Label, Authorized Software Update 1 04275086 Label, Authorized Modification Equipment Required: CH6000A Scan Tool (DRB III) CH7035 General Purpose Interface Bus Cable (GPIB) CH7000/7001 J1962 Cable MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System) NOTE: THE MDS2 AND DRB III ARE REQUIRED TO PERFORM PART OF THIS REPAIR. WHEN USING THE MDS2 AND THE DRB III, THE SYSTEM MUST BE OPERATING AT CIS CD 2090 OR HIGHER (2090 ARRIVES IN DEALERSHIPS ON SEPTEMBER 3, 2001). Repair Procedure: 1. Log onto the MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System). 2. Connect the MDS2 and DRBIII to the vehicle and switch the ignition key to"ON". NOTE: AUTO CONNECTION WILL OCCUR ONCE THE DRB III, MDS2, AND VEHICLE ESTABLISH COMMUNICATION. THE "CANNOT READ VIN FROM DRB III" MESSAGE (ON THE MDS2) WILL BE REPLACED BY THE VEHICLE VIN. PRESS THE "OK" BUTTON ON THE MDS2 TO REQUEST A L4DS2 SESSION FOR THE VEHICLE VIN INDICATED. PRESS THE "OK"BUTTON WHEN ASKED TO BEGIN SESSION. 3. Push the FLASH tab on the MDS2. 4. Select READ PART NUMBERS FROM VEHICLE and click SHOW UPDATES on the MDS2. NOTE: A MESSAGE MAY APPEAR (AFTER STEP 3 OR 4) THAT INDICATES NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE. IF THIS OCCURS, MAKE SURE YOUR DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT IS OPERATING AT THE LATEST SOFTWARE LEVEL AS LISTED EARLIER IN THIS BULLETIN. IF THE LATEST SOFTWARE IS INSTALLED, AND NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE ANOTHER VEHICLE CONDITION EXISTS THAT WILL REQUIRE FURTHER INVESTIGATION. 5. Select the new software part number with the light pen and click UPDATE CONTROLLER SOFTWARE. 6. The MDS2 and DRB III will prompt for any operator action needed during the remainder of the reprogramming process. NOTE: DUE TO THE PCM REPROGRAMMING PROCEDURE, A DTC MAY BE SET IN OTHER MODULES (EATX, BCM, MIC, SKIM, ETC.) WITHIN THE VEHICLE, IF SO EQUIPPED. SOME DTC'S MAY CAUSE THE MIL TO ILLUMINATE. ALL DTC'S RELATE TO A LOSS OF COMMUNICATIONS WITH THE MODULE THAT IS BEING REPROGRAMMED. CHECK ALL MODULES, RECORD THE FAULTS, AND ERASE THESE FAULTS PRIOR TO RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. ERASE ANY FAULTS IN THE PCM ONLY AFTER ALL OTHER MODULES HAVE HAD THEIR FAULTS ERASED. NOTE: ONCE THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED TO THE PROPER SOFTWARE LEVEL, YOU MUST USE THE DRB III TO ENABLE THE 3 CYLINDER IDLE FEATURE. TO DO SO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW. 7. Connect the DRB III to the vehicle without connecting to MDS2 and follow the menu structures it appears below. 8. MAIN MENU - 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS 9. 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS - ALL (EXCEPT BELOW) 10. SELECT SYSTEM - 1 ENGINE 11. CONTROLLER TYPE - 1 CUMMINS (ECM/ENGINE) 12. SELECT FUNCTION - 1 MISCELLANEOUS (Misc. is on second page) 13. 3.3 CYLINDER IDLE - Follow the instructions The DRB III will indicate whether the feature is enabled or disabled. 14. Push 1 to Enable, 2 to Disable. 15. You are instructed to cycle the ignition to complete the repair. 16. Press Page Back to Exit. NOTE: THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW. 17. Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Software Update Label" p/n 04669020 (Fig. 1). Attach the label to the PCM and cover the label with the clear plastic overlay.
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TSB 14-002-03 Lift Pump Diagnostics for stock fuel systems
Lift Pump Diagnostics TSB 14-002-03 Diesel Transfer Pump Diagnosis Overview: Improved diagnostic procedures are available which will greatly improve identifying a faulty fuel transfer pump. The improved procedures test the 'flow" capability of the transfer pump. It sufficient fuel reaches the injection pump from the low-pressure system, then the cause of engine performance problem(s) lies elsewhere. Equipment Required: 6977 Kit, Diesel Fuel Pressure (Includes 06628 Gauge and #8976 Fitting) 6631 Adapter, Fuel Pressure Diagnostic Procedure: The following procedure is to aid in evaluating the low-pressure fuel system performance in the absence of fault codes. 1. Inspect all fuel lines (including chassis) for kinks and leaks. Repair prior to proceeding. 2. Battery voltage must be greater than 11.5 volts. If not, charge batteries as required. 3. Remove the rubber fuel hose from the outlet side of the fuel filter (Fig, 1). 4. Attach a 915 mm (36 in.) clear hose to the fuel filter outlet line (Fig. 1). Do not use the pressure test fitting. 5. Route the hose to a clean, empty 3.8 liter (1 gallon) approved diesel fuel container. 6. Purge all air from the lines by bumping the starter to activate the transfer pump (transfer pump should run for 26 seconds). WARNING! THE TRANSFER PUMP WILL RUN LESS THAN 2 SECONDS (VARIES WITH ECU CALIBRATION) WHEN THE IGNITION KEY IS FIRST TURNED TO ON. WHEN THE STARTER IS BUMPED (DO NOT ALLOW THE ENGINE TO START), THE TRANSFER PUMP WILL RUN 25 SECONDS. IF THE ENGINE HAS BEEN RUNNING, THE IGNITION KEY MUST BE CYCLED TO ALLOW THE TRANSFER PUMP TO RUN. 7. If the transfer pump runs, proceed to step 8. If the transfer pump does not run, check electrical circuits as follows: 8. Empty the container of fuel. 9. Bump the starter to activate the transfer pump. Look for air bubbles. If no air bubbles are present, proceed to step 10. If bubbles are present, check the lines/connectors between the fuel tank and the transfer pump for conditions allowing air to be drawn into the fuel system. Correct the condition and repeat steps 6, 8, and 9. 10. Measure the amount of fuel in the container after the pump shuts off. If the amount of fuel in the container is GREATER than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces) and the fuel is bubble free, then the low-pressure fuel system is OK, the cause of engine performance problem lies elsewhere. No further testing of the low pressure fuel system Is required. If the amount of fuel in the container is LESS than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces), proceed to step 11. 11. Connect fuel pressure test gauge #6828, included In the #6i977 Diesel Fuel Pressure kit, to the pressure fitting located on the fuel filter inlet. If the vehicle is a 2002 model, install test fitting #6976, included In the #6977 Diesel Fuel Pressure kit. 12. Purge all air from the lines by bumping the starter to activate the transfer pump. Empty the container of fuel. 13. Bump the starter to activate the transfer pump for 25 seconds. Observe the hose for air bubbles. Record filter inlet pressure. 14. If the fuel quantity continues to be LESS than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces), connect a fuel vacuum test gauge #6828 using the fuel pressure test adapter #6631 between the transfer pump and the chassis mounted fuel lines. 15. Purge all air from the lines by bumping the starter to activate the transfer pump. 16. Empty the container of fuel. 17. Bump the starter to activate the transfer pump for 25 seconds. Observe the hose for air bubbles. Record transfer pump inlet vacuum.
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TSB 18-019-01 - Cold Idle Engine Warming ( High Idle Enable)
Date: September 3, 2001 Models: 1998 1/2-2002 BR/BE Ram Trucks (2nd Gen Cummins, 1998 .5, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002) NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL RAM TRUCKS BUILT AFTER DECEMBER 17,1997 AND EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE. Discussion: This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software (Cal 55Tl8, 57Tl1, 56Tl3, 59T7b, and 59T8b.) Symptom/Condition: Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time. Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met: 1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and, 2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and, 3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and, 4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and, 5. Throttle = 0% and, 6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating. Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs: 1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or, 2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or, 3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or, 4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or, 5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F). Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will re enable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle. NOTE: ANY TYPE OF AFTERMARKET IDLE SPEED KICKER THAT ACTIVATES THE APPS WILL DISABLE THIS FEATURE. Use of the 110V block heater will not allow the feature to function after an overnight soak. If the vehicle is left idling, without use of the block heater, 1200 rpm operation will begin when the intake temperature drops below O°C (32°F) and coolant is less than 60°C (140°F). Diagnosis: 1. Using the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRBIII) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. Parts Required: Qty. Part No. Description 1 04669020 Label, Authorized Software Update 1 04275086 Label, Authorized Modification Equipment Required: CH6000A Scan Tool (DRB III) CH7035 General Purpose Interface Bus Cable (GPIB) CH7000/7001 J1962 Cable MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System) NOTE: THE MDS2 AND DRB III ARE REQUIRED TO PERFORM PART OF THIS REPAIR. WHEN USING THE MDS2 AND THE DRB III, THE SYSTEM MUST BE OPERATING AT CIS CD 2090 OR HIGHER (2090 ARRIVES IN DEALERSHIPS ON SEPTEMBER 3, 2001). Repair Procedure: 1. Log onto the MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System). 2. Connect the MDS2 and DRBIII to the vehicle and switch the ignition key to"ON". NOTE: AUTO CONNECTION WILL OCCUR ONCE THE DRB III, MDS2, AND VEHICLE ESTABLISH COMMUNICATION. THE "CANNOT READ VIN FROM DRB III" MESSAGE (ON THE MDS2) WILL BE REPLACED BY THE VEHICLE VIN. PRESS THE "OK" BUTTON ON THE MDS2 TO REQUEST A L4DS2 SESSION FOR THE VEHICLE VIN INDICATED. PRESS THE "OK"BUTTON WHEN ASKED TO BEGIN SESSION. 3. Push the FLASH tab on the MDS2. 4. Select READ PART NUMBERS FROM VEHICLE and click SHOW UPDATES on the MDS2. NOTE: A MESSAGE MAY APPEAR (AFTER STEP 3 OR 4) THAT INDICATES NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE. IF THIS OCCURS, MAKE SURE YOUR DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT IS OPERATING AT THE LATEST SOFTWARE LEVEL AS LISTED EARLIER IN THIS BULLETIN. IF THE LATEST SOFTWARE IS INSTALLED, AND NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE ANOTHER VEHICLE CONDITION EXISTS THAT WILL REQUIRE FURTHER INVESTIGATION. 5. Select the new software part number with the light pen and click UPDATE CONTROLLER SOFTWARE. 6. The MDS2 and DRB III will prompt for any operator action needed during the remainder of the reprogramming process. NOTE: DUE TO THE PCM REPROGRAMMING PROCEDURE, A DTC MAY BE SET IN OTHER MODULES (EATX, BCM, MIC, SKIM, ETC.) WITHIN THE VEHICLE, IF SO EQUIPPED. SOME DTC'S MAY CAUSE THE MIL TO ILLUMINATE. ALL DTC'S RELATE TO A LOSS OF COMMUNICATIONS WITH THE MODULE THAT IS BEING REPROGRAMMED. CHECK ALL MODULES, RECORD THE FAULTS, AND ERASE THESE FAULTS PRIOR TO RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. ERASE ANY FAULTS IN THE PCM ONLY AFTER ALL OTHER MODULES HAVE HAD THEIR FAULTS ERASED. NOTE: ONCE THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED TO THE PROPER SOFTWARE LEVEL, YOU MUST USE THE DRB III TO ENABLE THE 3 CYLINDER IDLE FEATURE. TO DO SO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW. 7. Connect the DRB III to the vehicle without connecting to MDS2 and follow the menu structures it appears below. 8. MAIN MENU - 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS 9. 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS - ALL (EXCEPT BELOW) 10. SELECT SYSTEM - 1 ENGINE 11. CONTROLLER TYPE - 1 CUMMINS (ECM/ENGINE) 12. SELECT FUNCTION - 1 MISCELLANEOUS (Misc. is on second page) 13. 3.3 CYLINDER IDLE - Follow the instructions The DRB III will indicate whether the feature is enabled or disabled. 14. Push 1 to Enable, 2 to Disable. 15. You are instructed to cycle the ignition to complete the repair. 16. Press Page Back to Exit. NOTE: THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW. 17. Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Software Update Label" p/n 04669020 (Fig. 1). Attach the label to the PCM and cover the label with the clear plastic overlay. If you want to manually control The ECM high idle you can use the Mopar1973man.com High Idle Switch