Dieselfuture

I was wondering the same but hard to judge from pictures. I'm doing tapped cover right now and it came out in 5 minutes, didn't have to take vp out plenty of room without the head. Few questions see pictures, One this cover set from felpro came with 2 sets of grommets one is just metal washers (what I took out ) and the other is rubber with metal, are they for a 12 valve. So just don't use them or is it something upgraded. Another is I noticed a small chunk missing on cylinder 4 and a score mark on the side, can't fill it with my finger. Did something went through the motor @jlbayes @TFaoro

Ok no hot retorque, never done it before ether, and never had a problem. Just always torqued things down and went back right away and loosen one at time and back to spec. So I'll just stick with that. Just spoke with dap and confirmed k27 would be a good fit for my needs. Yes a bit pricy for the hp gain but much better then hx35/40 (in his words) I know people had good luck with hybrids. But a guy needs a scrap price hx40 that just needs a rebuild kit and a decent hx35 to make one. Otherwise it's not worth the effort. Plus if I go with too much power (like super B or S whatever) I'll need more parts. Better clutch, different down pipe, bigger injectors, plumbing, etc. The whole 18cm exhaust housing he said works a lot different than holeset do, it's mainly to keep drive pressure and egts down and lag is minimal. But then again I'd love to hear from someone that has one.... so basically it's a 60/58/18 and builds about same boost with more flow (volume)

I was only going to use bearing housing and compressor wheel and housing and put my exhaust housing and turbine in. I'm kinda starting to give up on this at this point, may just rebuild the one I got and put it back in till I figure it out. Looks like in not to distant future I'll be looking for a new exhaust manifold too, may just do something then. May even get rid of exhaust brake at that time, not sure yet. K27 was kind of up my alley but with 18.2cm exhaust housing not sure how it would work. Need some real life testing to compare too with similar set up. Stick, 74hp injectors etc. Wonder if this is a same one as dap selling, may worth it if I rebuild it. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Borg-Warner-k27-turbo-/322396996298?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE Yeah nevermind, part numbers don't match, with dap. Probably some odd one.

I thought hx40 were all with a 60mm inducer, still trying to find something reasonable. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HX40-OEM-56mm-ind-compressor-wheel-70mm-exd-exhaust-/172760685660?hash=item283956dc5c%3Ag%3A-2oAAOSw8HBZD8-N&_trkparms=pageci%3A48198ad6-671f-11e7-89ab-74dbd1809b91%7Cparentrq%3A37a2519b15d0a99b93c01b38ffeb4d56%7Ciid%3A23

Got to love when phone thinks it knows better, but yes that's what I meant you got it.

Just dropped valves and springs off and got them talked in to $1000 out the door pressure test included. He said anymore they do a 3 angle valve job on almost everything, so I'm getting that too. Hopefully pressure test comes back good then I'll be a happy camper. Starting to get over the price, hopefully it pays off in the long run. @jlbayes yeah I try not to abuse it on daily basis, and I don't keep it above 1000 if continously puuli g a grade, usually down shift if I have to. Few times it stayed right around 1200 for mabe 10 seconds. And yeah no retorque required on A1 H11 unlike ARP, the only thing I read somewhere they want final torque done on warm motor. I'll do that and then retorque each one of them again one at a time, loosen up and back down. How do you return a Arby's after driving it when you can't get a socket on some of them, do people remove rockers to do that.

Did you put exhaust valves in where intake ones were, so you have all exhaust valves now. I though these seats were already hardened, maybe not. Why change valve depth, what do you gain.

This is the shop I'vebeen going to for the past 15 years at least, incase someone ia curious. http://drenginesmachine.com/home/2872543

That grommet from genos for 10 bucks is 11 at cummins so I'll get them too. Thanks guys.

I'll get the oring for vp tomorrow just in case it's 4 bucks and attempt to change that gasket without removing vp and if all fails at this point it's pretty easy to get off.

I have cummins not far from work, I'll see if he can find that oring by genos number, I'm going there tomorrow for a injection pump o ring anyway. Man that tapped cover is very easily accessible without the head but I haven't even tried taking a bolt out to see if it hits vp.

If that's the case then I'm getting a pretty good deal considering Tyler didn't have his guides redone, but he did do fire Rings that's about 200. Is there special guides to put in these heads, he said they were brass coated or something. Can someone remind me on how to fix fuel return T at back of the head, is there o rings in there or compression fittings. Also going to do tapped cover gasket is felpro ok it's 20 bucks and comes with grommets, used to like their stuff. Another thing is torque spec on all the crap I took off, is there a link to that and injection pump removal and torque on that nut, how do you keep it from turning when torqueing. O yeah did some reading on these A1H11 head bolts and most say final torque is 130-140 and warm motor. Some use block heater, but that means I need to put antifreeze in. I can cold torque to 90 or so and then put antifreeze in. But its been 90 ambient here so it wont be that cold. Few times I've fired up motor for about a minute with no coolant so the gaskets get stock better, some rumor out there. Never blew them out ether. I know I'm asking a lot, but been kinda crazy here with everything going on. Thank you gents

No cracks, , I guess pressure testing was not in the quote. That's another 125 he thinks it looks good enough and no cracks and not as nearly abused as some 24 valve heads he seen. Said it's up to me but he would probably skip it if I was him. He said if I didn't bobble in coolant and lose any coolant then probably ok. Man I don't know what's another 125. Maybe I'll call him back and see if I can be 1000 even out the door then I'll do it. Just seems like a lot to do guides and plane clean flex pressure, is this a normal price? @TFaoro @jlbayes @trreed

Lol, I'm just learning this crap and not liking it already. Just ways to throw money at something someone thought would work. Need a proven set up for what I'm after. Even if I went with a different turbo and got rid of eb which I don't want to do, love the look on people's face when I use it. Like where is that semi...., then I still need different down pipe plumbing probably bigger sticks mpg is going by by, etc. I need this truck to last next 50 years or till diesel is still legal.

I just looked at it too on dap site and yeah, exhaust housing is 18.2 cm also, thing must be laggy. And I was expecting it to be at least 62/65/12 or 14 with 3" flange for my exhaust break, for $1000 got to be something better. Seen few on ebay used I could go through with a rebuilt kit but if it's not much better than what I got, no reason to. I need a stock hx40 with 60mm compressor, so I can rob parts of it. Wouldn't need to machine bearing housing then either. Just combine parts, and I'll be happy with 75hp injectors and eb.

Yes understood, that's why they going to mag it before they go any further Thank you for going in detail on what you did. Sure sounds like something I would of been doing. Is K27 or similar be ok with 75hp injectors and how is it for Towing and mpgs. If it's all that much better I might consider selling my exhaust brake and maybe later get an inline one. Unless K27 be perfect. What are the dimensions on it, anyone know.

At the shop now, some valve guides are very lose like oval shape. So I'm having them do everything, new guides, valve job, etc. So far I got on their good side and suppose to be at $850 out the door. Including pressure testing They're going to call me later today and let me know on maging test. Now that he's going to regrinde all valves he said just toss all the valves and springs in a box and bring them over. Are springs all same pressure 60# I assume. @jlbayes @TFaoro Turbo will probably have to wait I'm going to try to rebuild what I got, unless someone got a hybrid they want to send me There she lies, cause it's a bitc..

I keep it all separate in case something changes. I'm taking 2 valves in with the head just to get an opinion from them. Guides did seem a bit lose and had oil on valves when I pulled them out. I just can't afford 1500 it ran fine before. I'll put new seals on and put it all back together unless they say guides are horrible.

To change seals, check guides and magnaflex, to save money at shop for disassemble

Trying to get valves out so I can take this thing in to shop. What's the best way to release keepers, I usually slightly tap on them and they come apart, but these are stubborn. @TFaoro @jlbayes @trreed Nevermind guys I ended up setting it's on the concrete floor on a towel and stood on top of it they all came out that way. Thanks either way.

So that's who Tater is.... I was kinda wondering who to ask about milling my housing

Are you going to put your 75hp back in? Would that fix the lag. I got a set of 75 I'm planning on putting in, had them for a while now, been gone through by dap when they couldn't take em as a core when I got my 60s I had 75s rebuild. But they are 8 hole not sure vco or sac. Ideally that's probably what I need, I was just thinking if I'm buying new parts, should I go to 62 inducer or is too much. I suppose I can get 100hp injectors, but also want a good spool and mpg and lower egts, man am I asking a lot. Seemed like front and back cylinders were not as dirty and had fuel on all of them guessing from pulling injectors, so yes I wiped them all down but front and back were much cleaner after wiping. I'll stay away unless it's genuine parts. I'd like a bit more power nothing like you but want a decent set up, at least a good hybrid that I can manage egts when towing and still have decent mpg. Just didn't know if 62 inducer is too much. I don't think I have excessive heat but it can get pretty warm. So with 75hp and quad I should be ok with 62 I'm guessing @trreed thanks for pointing out the housing, but originally I thought about getting a non gated housing and drive by guage and quad set limits. You guys talked me in to staying with 12cm as I don't need a race truck but something dependable, lol, as I'm always fixing something on it. Yes I wouldn't mind a working wastegate set at 35psi or so but last time I freed mine up in few months it quit working. So if 10 blade needs machining then a 35/40 hybrid like @Mopar1973Man has, is exhaust housing and turbine same as mine now? And only the front housing and turbine is different? I understand I need to machine bearing housing for bigger turbine but not sure what about exhaust housing. Not sure about my spray pattern, what's it mean to you guys, too much timing not enough?

Needing some advice on my turbo, I want to get compressor housing with wheel but few options here. This one is 62x86, supposed to be largest available for hx35. Listed as cH11 . http://www.gillettdiesel.com/HXUpgradeCompressorHousingandWheel60mm6blade-1-1.aspx There are other ones but thinking to go with ch11. Then machine my bearing housing for larger wheel. And hopefully be able to reuse my exhaust housing with turbine wheel. If not i can get this 12cm long, should bolt up to my exhaust brake. They have 14cm too. http://www.gillettdiesel.com/12cmnon-wastegatedturbinehousing-3.aspx And there is this wheel on ebay it's 10 blade vs 12 what are the thoughts on it. http://m.ebay.com/itm/111577452460 I'm guessing I need to stay with 12cm exhaust housing. Another thing is this bearing section also from eBay http://m.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HX40-HX35-Bearing-Housing-/111587767332?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE My guess is from China maybe, but it says he can machine it for whatever and put a oring grove if needed, do I need an oring grove. For $55 new bearing carier machined to larger wheel seems like a good deal. @Mopar1973Man @jlbayes @TFaoro @trreed Thanks guys.

Mabe reflash your qwad, are you using v2

Finally got the head off, gasket was going to go in few places. Can I change tapped cover gasket, or does vp have to come out. Also I'm not sure why people make a big deal if you take back bolts out for injector hold downs, it looks like they just bottom out anyway. Had 3 cylinders that look like valves were wet inside looking through exhaust port. Front and back cylinders were a lot cleaner then the others not sure why yet, still thinking. Can someoneidentify pistons, are these stock. Numbers are 6051 02 L37