Dieselfuture

If it's empty now, I would change all orings and sensors, then vacuum the system and see if it holds it. If compressor is original may want to look in new one or mabe rebuild kit (not sure if doable) there might be kit out there. Reason I said change all sensors is personal preference, one time I worked on a Honda ac got it fixed and not even a month later one of the sensors failed, so I had to drain the system to change it. The dy works to find leaks may want to try that again too, if you don't want to change random orings and sensors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SZ4QFW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500580697&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Where do you guys work I want a job

Just came across this on other site, didn't realize the acceptable range. Not sure if I'd trust it. Acceptable Intake lash range: 0.006 in. (0.152 mm) to 0.015 in. (0.381 mm) Acceptable Exhaust lash range: 0.015 in. (0.381 mm) to 0.030 in. (0.762 mm ) If the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/resetting is not necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise.

I run 3 extra qt in my 56 but I also have a cooler on one side and filter on the other. 45 should be ok at full (coming out of hole) mark, but shouldn't hurt anything to run extra qt just make sure vent is not plugged. I know my 56 is so large inside, that before I put cooler and filter on it I ran qt and half extra, and when putting it in through shifter hole level barely came up, maybe a quarter of an inch.

Finally found your thread, how you like your 63/68/12 still using it? I just got 62/67/12 ordered I guess you did mention it in my thread that you like your turbo that answers my question if you still using it. Who built it for you.

Zach from North American Turbo just called me little bit ago and my turbo is done and on its way, and I should have it tomorrow. I'm extrimly happy with the service, can't wait to see it and actually use it, then I'll know more. It was 900 bucks shipped to me. Saved a 100 compare to k27, got to keep exhaust brake, my old turbo that I just rebuild, and it will support up to 500hp according to Zach. If I can have a safe 400hp I'd be very happy. So hopping this weekend I'll know a lot more. @jlbayes thanks again for pointing me in right direction. The turbine is from h1e from 10 liter diesel.

I'd just use amsoil if it was me

I'dlike to take a look

Adjusted valves yesterday to 8/18 rotated the motor by alternator counterclockwise (by the way crank turns counterclockwise also) and they were almost all at 10/20 so I readjusted them again and rotated it again, this time they stayed at 8/18, just so you know. Things had to settle.

My personal opinion take leveling kit off nothing but a headache in long run. Alignment do it yourself very easy on these trucks. Center your axle with track bar, tow in with tape measure about 1/32nds to 16th just as long as it's a slight toe in. Then center your steering wheel. On the other note spend money on a welder and make your own control arms, if you trust your welding. I've done a lot of redneck fabbing and never had a problem but I'm anal about what I do. My track bar on the truck now is home made and adjustable. Cost maybe 50 bucks.

@notlimah @BBHD intake horn is CFM plus, carbon fiber finish made out of some composite. Got it when I first bought the truck, not sure if I'd do it again for my set up. Probably good idea when you're trying to squeeze every hp out, not in mild application. But o well I got one now. One good thing it has multiple threaded ports, one I'm using for boost guage. Amsoil BMK21 single bypass, ( using eabp90 filter) I made a mount for it and welded it to the frame kinda under turbo, makes it easy to access from under the truck. I didn't like the idea of mounting it to apps bracket, no room and will make a mess.

I'm not much of electrical guy but I felt like selling my truck more then once. But every time I see some people I know having new or newer vehicles bust out few thousand bucks on something stupid I change my mind. The only way I'd ever sell it if I had money to lease something and not worry about fixing anything, but then again if I had money to throw away I'd still keep the truck just to play with it. We all feel your pain. Try to find what it is fix it and move on.

Well just waiting on turbo now, hopefully I got it all in the right place, will find out, kinda excited now. Is there a time limit on braking in head gaskets, I never did before just usually took it to the track following weekend.

Just remembered, I got some oil that ended up in a block when I removed the head. My plan is just fill it with water for initial start up, and keep the thermostat out just put the oring in, and once I get it started and running, park slightly down hill, undo top radiator hose from radiator, shove a garden hose in radiator fill and let it run for a while like that. Another thing we used to do, is fire up a fresh rebuild motor with no coolant at all for maybe a minute or two just so gasket stick better to surface. Any thoughts.

No kidding, I was so close on buying k27 but they said it was 60 and it's 58 compressor wheel, that turned me down. This place sound like they know what they're doing and he was very helpful in answering my questions and said that 62/67/12 would work very good compare to k27. They had a few they rebuilt in past, from some Mercedes and said they are ok but won't flow like what I'm getting, and I get to keep my exhaust brake and my old turbo too.

He said they do port compressor and exhaust housings unless I misunderstood. I told him I had 75hp injectors and qwad he thought 62/67/12 would work good, but I was just reading other forms and there are people with some tater built 62/65/12 that people like. I need to quit reading and have a beer.

I just asked him about that and I believe yes, he said bigger turbos use like hx40 and few other ones I couldn't remember use same shaft too. He said for what I'm doing he wouldn't worry about it. Now what you need for 1000hp that's a different story I'm keeping my core since I just rebuild it, they charge 100 bucks, well worth it to me as a complete turbo and not just bearing housing with guts. So as I mentioned above I'm going with North American Turbo Systems and having them build me a 62/67/12 with 6 blade compressor and I believe he said 14 blade turbine. What difference would it be between that and say 62/65/12 @jlbayes @TFaoro

And to top it off he'll start building it now and ship it to me so I have it by end of week and I'll send him my core, that was a bonus. So I get to keep bearing housing that I just put a kit in so my buddy will have something to work with too. His gonna use a new bearing housing so no need for mine, I'll just send him compressor and exhaust housings. Or maybe even see what they charge for core might just keep what I have and just pay core price.

We'll I hate you and I love you, was just about to buy k27 and decided to give North American Turbo Systems a call, and after talking to Zach I'm now sending them my turbo and getting it built to 62/67/12 with a different turbine and machined exhaust housing. About $800. He says it will support up to 500hp and spool quick with manageable egts, especially wit the quad and v2 tunning. I also asked about k27 and he said that compressor is only 58 and not 60 like dap is advertising. So once I found that out no need to spend 1000 bucks on misadvertising and little gain. He says that a lot of times companys advertise size of housing and not wheel to make it sound better. I thought it was already on the border of being to small but would give me a 100hp bump I'll be ok, but I don't think it will do that. Zach wasn't trying to fill me full of shi. So he gets my business. I also told him you and this great site is what led me there. Thank you again.

I went 250 in/lb on the first set I did it's about 21ft/lb because that's where my in/lb torque wrench maxes out and I wasn't sure if I need to go 18 or 27 I knew about the TDC and btc marks when I adjusted valves few times, I was mainly curious if there is a good way of telling when you're on TDC going through firing order to torque rocker arm assembly. As I already put injectors in I can't wach for piston to come up to make sure I'm tdc. On v8s I can mark damper in 4 sections and that would tell me tdc going through firing order but since it's a straight 6 didn't know if there is a way to to do it by marking damper.

What do you think of k27 that I'm about to order. https://dieselautopower.com/borg-warner-k27-turbocharger-53279880001/ Mike never mind, I see you already answered my question, I must of miss read it at first

When you do get the head off make sure to do your guides, about 10 of mine were pretty bad and oveled out holes. Rest of them were like new but they did them all.

I think my mind is set for k27, for another $250 it should be better. I'll be calling Dap today to make sure it fits my needs. I just don't want problems that come with high hp turbos. Thanks for the link though.

Got the head put on this weekend, putting rockers on and adjusting the valves now. Ended up torqueing to 50 first ( new head gasket, otherwise going to 90 right away would start lifting head off to one side, then after I went to 50 on all of them, I lossened them all up and then back to 50) then 90, 110,135. Most of the washers ended up spinning on the head instead of staying put, but I had arp lube all over so it's probably ok. Got few questions go figure. What's the torque on rocker arm assembly I seen 18 and 27 ft/lb. And do you go 10/20 or 8/18 on valve lash when motor is cold. Also I jumped ahead on my self and put my 75hp injectors in and mow wondering what's the best way to tell if I'm on TDC going through firing order, so I can torque rockers. And last question if using alternator nut to rotate the engine I believe you go in reverse but which way does crankshaft turn when motor is running, any I'll effects on injection pump if it's spinning wrong way. Well let's say I got pretty comfortable sitting on random things in engine bay, as. Is still sore, wouldn't wanna do this for a living.